Here's a little info I found:
You can use Fox body Mustang motor mounts. They bolt right in, you simple drill and slot the Ranger crossmember.
Only issue with the 4x4 trucks is one of the drain plugs gets very close to the 4x4 crossmember. On some trucks, it's a non-issue, other peopl gently slot the crossmember.
Sedan mounts are slightly taller than convertible mounts, may help this issue. If you go with urethane mounts, Prothane mounts are slightly taller than Energy Suspension.
(Most of us want the lower mounts, but in some instances, the taller may be better)
I placed my engine so that I was able to keep my stock driveshaft. So, if you're removing the transfer case, you may want to try any stock 2wd Ranger LWB driveshaft. Manual and auto trans trucks should have slightly different lengths. (you would check years up to 1997, as 1998 and newer will be longer)
Little more info:
I've heard some bad reviews on the duff headers..... Some people like the tri-y headers from early stangs. My ranger is a 92 and even though the super comp hookers arnt listed for my year ranger "they say 84-90" they fit ok with minor cuss-words.
For cooling a 302 and room to mount a trans cooler, I used the extra short reverse rotation 5.0 timing cover and water pump like used on the 95 stangs. They help increase the room between the pulleys and radiator but you cant use a mechanical fuel pump with that style cover either, you must use an electric fuel pump. I added a 3"x 19"x24" $169 griffen rad, but had to reweld the lower input snout to a different angle to clear the serpentine belts path and welded on some post to the rear so it would sit in the factory mounts. Here is a write up about it and some bad pics.
As for the 8.8 rear, untill you actually have some hp, the 7.5 will last a long time since the rear of the ranger is pretty light and would break traction befor the rear breaks. The 8.8 weights 80 lbs more than the 7.5 and will slow your Track time down if you dont really need it. They share the exact same axle shaft size already. I used a 7.5 for year with a 351w in my ranger with no problems but it only had about 285hp. I found a great deal on an 8.8 and swaped it in. I now run a nitrous
302 and I'm glad I up'ed to the 8.8 when I did.
You'll need to splice into the ignition circuit or under hood engine harness to get a "key on" power sorce to run your fuel pump/starter/ and aftermarket ignition. Also you'll want to disconnect the "check engine" lightbuld in the dash. I'm using my factory fuel pump with a mallory return style regulator. An msd box and a ford duraspark dizzy. I used an underhood engine harness location for "key on" power and "key forward/start" power.
And apparently this site has some swap parts and info you might be interested in: