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Old 07-23-2011, 02:39 PM   #1
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Detailing buffer

Anyone have a recommendation on a detailing kit including a buffer? Want to keep the showroom shine on my '11 GT as well as restore my shine on my '06 TL.
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:14 PM   #2
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Re: Detailing buffer

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Uber-...205_p_307.html
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:07 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by DDTCM
Just what I was looking for. Does it come with instructions on how to perform the process with the various compounds and pads? As well as for general waxing purposes?
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Old 07-23-2011, 08:07 PM   #4
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Re: Detailing buffer

Not sure bout that but its a pretty simple process. Just remember let the machine do the work which means don't use alot of pressure. Have you ever ran a buffer before?
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Old 07-25-2011, 09:41 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by DDTCM
Not sure bout that but its a pretty simple process. Just remember let the machine do the work which means don't use alot of pressure. Have you ever ran a buffer before?
Just didn't know if the kit had recommendations. The last buffer I ran was old and not variable speed which made heating a problem. With the new buffers just wanted to make sure process didn't change. Figure it's buff with harsher compounds an work up to less and final polish with the polishing pad.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:16 AM   #6
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Re: Detailing buffer

The one at the bottom of the page is the kit I use. Steve is a great help with any questions.

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Old 07-28-2011, 10:18 AM   #7
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Re: Detailing buffer

dont buy a cheap buffer that wobbles instead of just turns like normal, a true professional grade buffer/cutter is NOT cheap at all (autogeek.net) and you MUST KNOW what you are doing before it EVER EVER EVER EVER touches the paint.
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:03 AM   #8
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Re: Detailing buffer

I use the Porter cable 7424 in my detailing venture. Using the right pads, products and techniques, one can make a car look perfect. Here is one of the vehicles I detaiied recently.. a 2000 yellow Plymouth Prowler, done with the Porter Cable, my Griot's Garage 3" random orbit polisher and Meguiar's, Stoners and Mother's professional line products...

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Old 07-29-2011, 01:19 PM   #9
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Re: Detailing buffer

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV View Post
dont buy a cheap buffer that wobbles instead of just turns like normal, a true professional grade buffer/cutter is NOT cheap at all (autogeek.net) and you MUST KNOW what you are doing before it EVER EVER EVER EVER touches the paint.

C'mon now Spec,you don't wanna run him off or shy him away from learning. It's not that big of a deal to learn to run a buffer. All it takes is a little guidance and someone to point you in the right direction. I would suggest checking out Adams site for some videos or even going to YouTube for some tips. Just remember to let the machine do the work meaning it doesn't take alot of pressure and watch how long you hold it in one spot because you can burn the paint. Also,take it easy on the edges and corners and stay away from plastics.You will be better off buying painters tape and taping off the plastics to insure that the compound you are flinging around doesn't get all over the place.
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:37 PM   #10
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Re: Detailing buffer

go buy a door from a junk car at a junk yard and practice on it until you feel confident working on your own car
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Old 07-29-2011, 05:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
go buy a door from a junk car at a junk yard and practice on it until you feel confident working on your own car
I like your idea. Just might do that.
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Old 07-30-2011, 12:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
dont buy a cheap buffer that wobbles instead of just turns like normal, a true professional grade buffer/cutter is NOT cheap at all (autogeek.net) and you MUST KNOW what you are doing before it EVER EVER EVER EVER touches the paint.
Agree! You must know what you are doing. I'm too scared to use one. I could never live with myself if I F'd up my paint.
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Old 07-30-2011, 02:09 PM   #13
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Re: Detailing buffer

ive seen it done and I know the do's and donts so I know I could do it but I would still practice on another car and read some articles from pro's to get a better feeling then you can feel better about it
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:02 PM   #14
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Re: Detailing buffer

Dual-Action polishers and Orbital buffers

The motors and drive units on these two types of polisher's oscillate in an eccentric circular motion. This type of motion is much safer to the paint because it's virtually impossible to apply too much concentrated pressure in one place at one time. Chances are good that when too much pressure is applied, the oscillating action will come to a stop thereby protecting the finish.

Because these types of machines oscillate instead of rotate, they will not instill the dreaded buffer swirls or holograms into your finish as long as you use the appropriate chemicals, buffing pads and bonnets. This safety feature makes these machines highly popular with enthusiasts who would like to use a machine but at the same time, are afraid of burning or inflicting swirls into their car's finish.

Both the G-100 and Orbital buffers offer a number of benefits:

* Uncomplicated – Remove from box, attach buffing pad or bonnet, plug in, turn on, start buffing.

* Versatile – Can be used for cleaning, polishing, and applying waxes.

* Takes most of the labor out of the process, the machine does the work, all you do is hold it.

* Faster, more thorough - you can cover more area and do a better job with a machine.

* Creates a more uniform, higher gloss finish than your hands.

* Pushes polishing oils and protective waxes into the pores and microscopic surface imperfections far better than your hands can ever accomplish.



In recent years, the Porter Cable Dual-Action polisher (G-100) has become the machine of choice over the older style Orbital buffers for a number of different reasons:


* Smaller size and lighter weight makes them easier for anyone to use.

* Very easy to control, requires no previous experience or skill to use correctly.

* Smaller size enables you to work on small panels and tight areas easier with better control.

* More options for buffing pads and bonnets.

* Velcro® interface makes changing between pads fast and easy.


Rotary buffers

Rotary buffers are drastically different in the way they work compared to Dual-action polishers and Orbital buffers.

The drive unit used in a rotary buffer is referred to as a direct drive. What this means is the auger, (the threaded part to which the backing plate attaches), is driven directly off the electric motor. This results in a powerful rotating motion. This rotating motion is typically clockwise as you look at the rotary buffer from behind, as though you were using it on a panel.

Because the rotary buffer is a direct drive machine, it can do a lot of work very quickly. By work, we mean, the rotary buffer will remove paint.

Meguiar's understands the average person doesn't want to remove precious paint from their car's finish. However, sometimes removing paint is necessary in order to create a high gloss, defect-free finish. Example: If you have a scratch in your car's finish, say someone keyed your car, or a cat jumped up on the hood and left behind claw scratches.
In order to remove these scratches, you will need to remove enough paint surrounding the scratches in order to make the surface level. As you can see in this example, removing the scratches will require removing quite a bit of paint material, and in the case of the deep key scratch (where the arrow is pointing), you will not be able to completely remove it without exposing the base, or color coat of paint. This is a situation where you are better off improving the scratch, not completely removing the scratch.

Second Example: Many cars, after being painted, are wet-sanded in order to remove orange peel or to bring the surface to a show car quality finish. After the finish has been sanded, the way you remove the sanding marks is to buff the finish with a cutting compound and a rotary buffer. The cutting compound abrades the paint, removing, or leveling the finish until it’s completely flat.

After the surface is buffed flat, it will then be polished with a cleaner/polish like Meguiar’s M-83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish with the rotary buffer to restore a swirl-free, high gloss finish. Rotary buffers are necessary to do both of these procedures because both of these procedures require that some portion of the paint is removed.

Dual-action polishers and Orbital buffers do not have an aggressive enough action to remove small particles of paint in an effort to remove most defects, including sanding marks. This is the same reason Dual-action polishers and Orbital buffers are safe… they don’t have an aggressive action, thus they are safe. However, because they are safe (do not have an aggressive action), they are not aggressive enough to remove all but the finest of scratches.

Do not purchase a dual action polisher or orbital buffer hoping to use these to remove major or even minor scratches, as they are just not aggressive enough. They can often be used to remove fine or shallow scratches and swirls, but they will not remove any scratch that is deep enough to place your fingernail into.

Remember, using a rotary buffer successfully requires both skill and experience. If you use a rotary buffer and are not skilled in its use, you can easily apply too much pressure to the paint and burn right through it, requiring a new paint job. This same result can happen if you use a buffing pad attached to an electric drill.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:46 PM   #15
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DDTCM, thanks for the very detailed response. Helps a lot.
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poloka
DDTCM, thanks for the very detailed response. Helps a lot.
+1. This is great info.
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