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Old 03-29-2010, 05:15 PM   #1
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Rear wheel hp, torque, quarter mile/trap speed estimate?

chevy 355.
heads. 200cc world sportsman 2
cam. 306 advertises duration. 244/244 duration@ 50
centerline 110
approximatly 9.5 compression
670cfm carb
msd wires with a super coil
turbo 700r4 transmission with a 354:1 gear ratio
3000rpm stall
car 1987 chrysler conquest 3350lbs due to the engine swap

454, now .040 over
rounds out to about 475 cubes
compression about 10:5
heads stock but fully ported and shaved to get the compression
cam: 286 advertised duration
duration @ 50. 236
roller rockers
850 double pumper
msd 6aL
turbo 400
3500 rpm stall
323:1 gear
car Weight Stock body 1976 malibu about 4500lbs (note: cars thatt were beaten 03 mustang cobra and charger srt 8 some kinda older sport bike) were like the only thing that i thought was worthy to race and were beaten eaisly. havent had a chance to get after any vetts or vipers i personally raced a 06 dodge daytona charger and beat it probally 10 cars well b4 the 1/4mile

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Old 03-29-2010, 06:05 PM   #2
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Rear wheel hp, torque, quarter mile/trap speed estimate?

I own a shop, and build race engines. I also own a drag car & truck. I run once sometimes twice a week at the local drag strip. I see what your build is, but I don't see your lift on your cam. Duration doesn't mean a lot without knowing what the lift is, and if its a full roller, hydraulic, or flat tappet cam shaft. I don't see how you got your compression ratio either. If you will go to this site
they have a compression ratio calculator, and if you enter all your specs into it, it will tell you what your "true" compression ratio is. You also don't state what rockers you are running on build #1 and what ratio they are on build #1 & 2. This calculator can also predicts your horsepower, and torque if you have all the numbers to enter. Also; another good tool is the desktop Dyno program. I know its not correct, but it will get you in the ballpark within 5-10 horses. Yeah.. I spank a few of the Mustangs with my old truck on the street, but I very seldom ever drive my Malibu on the street to race. It's just too fast for the street anyway. Duration is @ .050" off BDC of the lobe on either side of the lift. The degrees it takes to get to .050" off bottom to .050" off bottom of the other side of the lift is advertised duration. Some manufactures rate this at .035-.040", and you have to know if this is the industry standard (@ .050"), or advertised duration in order to be exact. I can build two engines exactly the same, put both of them on the Dyno, and guess what? They are both making different horsepower & torque ratings, and this is building them exact. The reason is; one motor may be built looser than the other, and the ideal bearing clearence may not be the same on any two engines. NASCAR builders tend to build their engines loose, and they run really strong, but at the end of 500 miles that engine is shot. Talk about rocket science, now these builders have it figured out to the mile almost.
Part 2:
The first car (with limited information) would only make about 375 horses. Compression too low, no headers, or exhaust system? Lift on cam should be over .500 on both int. & exh. With 1.5 roller rockers, and you might see 425 hp. 3,000 stall helps get it up into power band, but again don't know band since the limited information on cam & valvetrain. Type of cam matters (roller or not) if its hydraulic, or flat tappet. 110 centerline on cam may need moved to get the most out of it.
A good site
can help you more than we can, as you can read many different things about what makes power, and what doesn't. 700R-4 will not take the power, so upgrade will keep it going. It will only handle around 325 hp at the most, and it will break some weak parts in it. With limited information I would say you would run in the mid 13's, and you will be hard pressed to do that with the gear you have. Traction, is a big if here?? How fast you would go in a 1/4 is anyone's guess.
Engine 2: High 10's to low 11's is more realistic here. Pretty heavy car! With a four link under the back, a gear, and getting it to hook it might see the mid 10's, but it has to hook good to do that. I suspect you are young and have a lot to learn, but keep at it, and don't let me discourage you. I won't tell you what you want to hear, and this is because you wouldn't be asking these questions "if" you knew more about professional racing. I run by the NHRA, and IHRA rules, but change gears to suit track conditions. If I were you, I would consider going to wyotech or some school like it to learn everything you can about this business, and then you will be a stand out in the crowd. Money is the main thing when it comes to racing, and a sponsorship is needed, unless you are rich, you will only get so far. He who has the backing, wins the race. Sad but true.

Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!

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Old 03-29-2010, 06:31 PM   #3
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Rear wheel hp, torque, quarter mile/trap speed estimate?

the small block should be about 425 hp and run in the high 13's it would be in the 12's but the rear gear is too high

the big block should be about 600 hp.
but with the weight and high gears...
my guess is it is slower than the small block car..
if that car was getting any traction at all it would twist the axles in half..
any car over 3300 lbs is going to twist the axles..
you should be running a 31 spline axle in a nodular iron 9" ford
and nothing higher than a 4.11 rear gear in both cars..
4.56 - 5.30 would be better depending on the tire size

that big block would run 10 flat in a early nova or tri five chevy
my small block 55 chevy is not striped down at all and weighs in at 3060 lbs
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:23 PM   #4
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Rear wheel hp, torque, quarter mile/trap speed estimate?

if u can spend so much money and time fixing up cars like u did, the least u can do is go get your cars dynoed and timed at a real track
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