Originally Posted by 007Stang
I've been interested in being more hands on with my paint now that I'm approaching 100K miles there are so many tiny nicks in my front bumper I want to repaint the whole thing as touch up would just be ridiculous.
Would you mind sharing how to prep the areas and what your setup consists of?
I'm already an active detailer and love the challenge of removing swirl marks, but paint repair with deep chips is a different story.
For dings and dents youll need body filler.
For starters never grind a bumper or youll melt it. common sense I know but you'd be surprised how many auto techs do this when they first start out.
Usually For dents on a bumper I would start by getting rid of all the old paint from it. I use my hand to sand it or us a DA sander. After that apply durglass filler onto the dents. Before the duraglass drys make sure to use a file to contour it and get it to feather edge. Next move onto body filler usually people use bondo but there are other products you can use. Lastly apply the correct type of body glaze to the body filler then use a DA to get it to feather the edges like you do with the duraglas and body filler. After that I would use the DA to sand the bumper with 180 grit on the DA or work your way up to 320 from 180 by hand. At this point youll need a scuff pad. Two different types I use to get it like I did on my car. First sand with a RED scuff pad should be 400-450 grit the second pad is a grey pad thats 600 grit but dont use it at this step.. After that wipe it off with a rag then a tack rag. There now your ready for either etching or regular primer. (etching primer is never used on plastic!) After you get primer on it and wait about 45 min or what ever the instructions say on the primer you use sand it with both red then grey scuff pads, then wipe off and tack it. After all that you can finally paint your base coat. There are three types of paint you can spray water based, solvent based, and enamel paint. (enamel paint doesn't require clear coat but you can still use it.) Just use what ever base coat type of paint you desire it doesnt really matter, just be aware of the different ways you have to put on the different types of paint. Next you can move onto the clear coat, this is what makes the paint actually shinny not the base coat. Usually 2 wet coats is enough(wet coat means you apply another coat while its still wet). I wouldnt recommend doing more then 2 wet coats at one time till you get good at spraying clear coat as you have to go a little bit faster with it but it all depends on your spray style. If you get runs you can sand and buff out the clear coat no biggy. Bigest things to worry about is dirt and dust thoroughly clean your work area and car and tack even the material you use to mask the car off with. I personally never ran clear coat but I have ran primer. If you run primer for what ever reason dont panic! Wait about 45 min and you can sand it out lightly if your lucky. 240 then 320 grin then your red and grey scuff pad. So much I could tell about the different types of paints but this was the basics...sorta there's a lot to know. I recommend using solvent based base coat because if you run water based you have to let it cure completely before sanding it. Also if you can afford it there's something called a venturi just plug a air line into it and it has like 2 or more air guns that blow across the paint when you use water based. Lastly NEVR EVER WASH WATERBASED unless you have clear coat on top of it. I made that mistake before lol I don't really know if this helped you, Ill be typing up something about this for people in a more simplified version so stand by for that.