Originally Posted by Gt.Vert
nvm too much wrk for that crap ...i might just go sc after a few months
You don't need to put a bunch of forged internals in your car to run nitrous. The problem people will generally run into with a wet kit is puddling. With dry kits, people run into an issue of running lean.
To give you an idea about how a wet nitrous kit works I'll give you a little run down. The reason it's called "wet" is because it also injects fuel into your intake along with the nitrous. A dry kit only injects the nitrous oxide into your intake and relies on the MAF picking up the "extra air" per say to tell the computer to send more fuel into motor via the injectors. Generally, a wet kit is safer than a dry kit because you really have no chance of running lean.
This wet kit is going to tap into your fuel rail and send that line into a nozzle. That nozzle will also be the home of the nitrous line from your bottle. When these two mix at the end of the nozzle, this is where you will be installing that nozzle into your air intake tube.
I'm not sure how zex works, but on the NX kits, there are jets that you put into that nozzle to regulate how much fuel, and how much nitrous are injected into your motor. I know the ZEX kits are said to be very safe because they have a brain box, but I'm unfamiliar with how it works. Just keep your setup to no more than a 70-75 shot, and you should be fine. Another problem people have is they spray too early. You don't want to spray before 3k RPM's or you're asking for trouble (puddling). I'm pretty sure this is where ZEX's brain box comes into play, and taps into your tach so it knows when you're at a certain RPM.
For what it's worth, I ran a 100hp wet shot on my 95 single port with ZERO internal components for over 2 years, and it still ran fine. I ran countless bottles through that thing.
Bottom line is nitrous is by far the best bang for buck modification you're going to find, so just be conservative with it since you don't have a built motor, and you'll be fine.