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Old 01-27-2012, 12:31 PM   #1
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Please help. really... I need it.

My 96 Mustang and I are having a love/hate relationship. Please read my situation:

I get my car scanned, and I get the error codes that say my car is running To Rich. on rear Banks 1 and 2. O' Reilly's Auto Parts tells me it would probably be the O2 sensor, which, as i looked online at the symptoms.. It seemed pretty logical. (The car ran way better cold than hot, there was shaking once hot when i accelerated, ect.) So i bought 2 O2 sensors for 160$ and to replace the rear ones and took them to Boise Muffler so they could do a quick swap. I don't have a lift or jack. Anyways, They scanned it and told me it HAD NOTHING TO DO with the O2 sensors.. it could be Anything. That REALLY Pissed me off. I went back to O' Reilly's and returned the sensors, and bought a thermostat, because i knew that I didn't have heat and it was probably out.
I then took it to Al's Car Care to get that swapped because It was a Long week and i didn't want to do it myself this weekend. They told me this morning that The THERMOSTAT was Fine! and some previous owner Bypassed the Heater Coils because there is a problem with a coolant leak and intake leaking gasket! Im so frustrated with this. I just want to fix the acceleration shaking in my car guys! thats all! please help me...
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:52 PM   #2
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Sounds like a problem I had. It was the intake manifold leak. I also swapped out my plugs and wires. All fixed.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:54 PM   #3
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Re: Please help. really... I need it.

Wish I could help but I am new to the stang. I have a 97 GT Convertible Premium. Post more specs and check your suspension, steering, drive shaft, and wheel bearings first. I would try to isolate the shudder point, such as clutch area, and driving habits like slipping the clutch to get the revs up. By the way, my o2 sensor down stream are acting up too, but I know that I will have to tune it to get the check engine codes out and improve engine performance. Whenever the light comes on I lose power, notable at the sound of the exhaust (flowmasters 40 series).

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Old 01-27-2012, 09:03 PM   #4
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Re: Please help. really... I need it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBluedude View Post
Sounds like a problem I had. It was the intake manifold leak. I also swapped out my plugs and wires. All fixed.
Thats another thing they said.. I'm just scared to spend money on things i don't need fixed yet, when there are other pressing matters at hand. I do have a intake manifold leak as well..
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:33 PM   #5
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Do the intake manifold gaskets. The shudder or shake in the engine is the misfire caused by coolant entering the combustion chamber. If the therm was bad and your coolant wasn't cycling then you would be over heating most likely. At the very least clean your plugs if the tips appear to be in good shape. In regards to you heater core/coil hook the hoses back up and make sure it's leaking before you replace it. They are pretty inexpensive but can be labor intensive so doing it yourself will be a good idea financially.

---------- Post added at 12:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:27 AM ----------

If the manifold leak is due to the typical cracked coolant passage then you might as well look into a pi intake swap. You will gain a few hp and solve the problem.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:54 PM   #6
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Re: Please help. really... I need it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Torrbo916 View Post
Do the intake manifold gaskets. The shudder or shake in the engine is the misfire caused by coolant entering the combustion chamber. If the therm was bad and your coolant wasn't cycling then you would be over heating most likely. At the very least clean your plugs if the tips appear to be in good shape. In regards to you heater core/coil hook the hoses back up and make sure it's leaking before you replace it. They are pretty inexpensive but can be labor intensive so doing it yourself will be a good idea financially.

---------- Post added at 12:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:27 AM ----------

If the manifold leak is due to the typical cracked coolant passage then you might as well look into a pi intake swap. You will gain a few hp and solve the problem.
Thank You! the thermostat isn't bad at all because i just replaced it with a new one. and for the heater coils or whatever.. why do i want them to leak?? I can get that done later though. I've gone most winter without heat.. I can do for a month longer. But Thanks! How much to do the swap you think??
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang_Madness

Thank You! the thermostat isn't bad at all because i just replaced it with a new one. and for the heater coils or whatever.. why do i want them to leak?? I can get that done later though. I've gone most winter without heat.. I can do for a month longer. But Thanks! How much to do the swap you think??
You don't want it to leak. But if you have never had it hooked up then you don't know for sure that's it's bad. If it leaks then you know. You don't want to replace it if you don't need too. I'm assuming it is bad because the previous owner bypassed it but it doesn't hurt to double check. Maybe he though it was leaking when it was actually the manifold. As far as the swap. You can find an intake on craigslist for around 100$ make sure it's a factory ford though not a dorman. The oem flows better than the dorman.
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torrbo916

You don't want it to leak. But if you have never had it hooked up then you don't know for sure that's it's bad. If it leaks then you know. You don't want to replace it if you don't need too. I'm assuming it is bad because the previous owner bypassed it but it doesn't hurt to double check. Maybe he though it was leaking when it was actually the manifold. As far as the swap. You can find an intake on craigslist for around 100$ make sure it's a factory ford though not a dorman. The oem flows better than the dorman.
Alright. I definitely will. Thanks!
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