2000 GT quick question about the Oil.. - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-27-2012, 03:25 PM   #1
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2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

I was told since I have 107,xxx that I should us 20w-50. So today I did just that. I was also assured that 5 quarts is enough. I searched here and apparently it's supposed to be 6+?


2 things I'm worried about.

20w-50? Really?

And should I go add another quart right now? It's only on 5


Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:36 PM   #2
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That's crazy, I wouldn't have used any thicker than 5w30. Higher mileage doesn't require higher weight oil, unless your trying to mask an issue with the engine. Newer cars with tighter tolerance engines can actually be damaged by running too heavy of an oil, or atleast make he engine work harder to run.
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:38 PM   #3
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That son of a biscuit eating bulldog.

What about I just go get a 5w-30 and add that to what I have now since it's just 5quarts and change it soon. Like a week or so from now again.

(just did the mounts on this bad boy yesterday, a little broke now)
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Constantine
That son of a biscuit eating bulldog.

What about I just go get a 5w-30 and add that to what I have now since it's just 5quarts and change it soon. Like a week or so from now again.

(just did the mounts on this bad boy yesterday, a little broke now)
I think you should just take all the oil, and use 5w-30 is better for ur engine. I would never, never use 20w-50 thats freaking crazy
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:34 PM   #5
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Alright...guess I'll do that then. Makes more sense. :/ I can keep the oil filter though right? It's only been a day.


But don't have the money too till like next week. Can I drive it for all that time? Mainly highway
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Constantine
Alright...guess I'll do that then. Makes more sense. :/ I can keep the oil filter though right? It's only been a day.

But don't have the money too till like next week. Can I drive it for all that time? Mainly highway
I always use synthetic oil for my mustang, n synthetic oil filter. But if u dont have the $ u could keep them, just make sure to get them next time
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:54 PM   #7
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Yeah...I was supposed to this time but darn mounts came up. Car feels so much better btw with new mounts

lol...anyways. I may have to run this 20w-50 for a week. Will my baby be okay? :/ nervous about it. Love that thing...
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Constantine
Yeah...I was supposed to this time but darn mounts came up. Car feels so much better btw with new mounts

lol...anyways. I may have to run this 20w-50 for a week. Will my baby be okay? :/ nervous about it. Love that thing...
I dont know bro, it could be damage by running to havy, that oil is really thick, i dont know who the **** told u to used that kind of oil. I think it was a mustang hater lol
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:26 PM   #9
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Damn man....that's depressing as hell. -___- I feel like smacking the ish out oh him. This is my first American car..


I'm in a bad mood now. No money till next week brother lol FML.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:45 PM   #10
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I think you should!!!!! The guy was in drugs or something..... Bro this forum is great anytume u have a question just type it in, we are here to help!!!!!
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by secomejia
I think you should!!!!! The guy was in drugs or something..... Bro this forum is great anytume u have a question just type it in, we are here to help!!!!!
Greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton brother. For now I have to stay driving it for a week. No other choice. :/
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Old 01-28-2012, 01:56 PM   #12
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And the oil amount should only be 4 1/2-5 not six
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Old 01-28-2012, 02:51 PM   #13
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Re: 2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

if you have to drive it.. Let the car warm up first before you drive. and add some additive like BG or Seafoam to thin the oil out a bit.

Sea Foam | Using Sea Foam Motor Treatment in Crankcase Oil | Tech Info - Diesel Engines

1/2 can of BG Quick Clean for Engines

or Auto-Rx Internal Engine Cleaner Oil additive / cleaner

any oil additive that is thinner than oil, shake the can or bottle, if it sounds like water then use it. for a week it will help clean your engine while you drive.

Then use a 100% synthetic oil (Not Mobil 1) Heres why

Royal Purple Oil Experience - 2005 Mustang GT - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Jump to page 12 for pictures and research info

Royal Purple Oil Experience - 2005 Mustang GT - Bob Is The Oil Guy


stick with real synthetics like Amsoil, Royal Purple, RedLine,

If you need to use some cheaper off the shelf oils,
Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5W/30 or Castrol Edge both are superior to Mobil one. M1 In my opinion has gone down in quality in the past few years, they are using more Group III-Base stock that other Fully Synthetic oils.
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:54 PM   #14
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Re: 2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadows View Post
That's crazy, I wouldn't have used any thicker than 5w30. Higher mileage doesn't require higher weight oil, unless your trying to mask an issue with the engine. Newer cars with tighter tolerance engines can actually be damaged by running too heavy of an oil, or atleast make he engine work harder to run.
I did'nt catch the year of the car. Was it mentioned? Naw.

las97GT

---------- Post added at 12:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:49 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadows View Post
That's crazy, I wouldn't have used any thicker than 5w30. Higher mileage doesn't require higher weight oil, unless your trying to mask an issue with the engine. Newer cars with tighter tolerance engines can actually be damaged by running too heavy of an oil, or atleast make he engine work harder to run.
Your advisor was on Crack. No offense but you should follow us and become a DIY not just an operator. good luck.

las97GT

---------- Post added at 12:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2K05GT View Post
if you have to drive it.. Let the car warm up first before you drive. and add some additive like BG or Seafoam to thin the oil out a bit.

Sea Foam | Using Sea Foam Motor Treatment in Crankcase Oil | Tech Info - Diesel Engines

1/2 can of BG Quick Clean for Engines

or Auto-Rx Internal Engine Cleaner Oil additive / cleaner

any oil additive that is thinner than oil, shake the can or bottle, if it sounds like water then use it. for a week it will help clean your engine while you drive.

Then use a 100% synthetic oil (Not Mobil 1) Heres why

Royal Purple Oil Experience - 2005 Mustang GT - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Jump to page 12 for pictures and research info

Royal Purple Oil Experience - 2005 Mustang GT - Bob Is The Oil Guy


stick with real synthetics like Amsoil, Royal Purple, RedLine,

If you need to use some cheaper off the shelf oils,
Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5W/30 or Castrol Edge both are superior to Mobil one. M1 In my opinion has gone down in quality in the past few years, they are using more Group III-Base stock that other Fully Synthetic oils.
Are you f++&*&^ Serious






















Are you freaking serous?
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT
I did'nt catch the year of the car. Was it mentioned? Naw.

las97GT

---------- Post added at 12:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:49 AM ----------


Your advisor was on Crack. No offense but you should follow us and become a DIY not just an operator. good luck.

las97GT

---------- Post added at 12:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 AM ----------


Are you f++&*&^ Serious

Are you freaking serous?
+1 really?
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:08 AM   #16
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Re: 2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

las97GT and secomejia

What do you mean? I would not joke about that.

The OP would not have any issues running the heavy weight oil for the short period, I know in the case of a push rod motor it a not issue but the modular motors have a tight tolerance and I am sure the 50 weight oil would not cause any damage in the short term other than performance and gas mileage I don't think the oil pump and cams / followers working a bit harder is going to be an issue, but why not play it safe and add an oil additive ? it can't hurt.

Or are you commenting on the M1 Oil quality? if so than yes M1 is not what it used to be, Castrol Edge is a far better fully synthetic than M1. I think it started Post Katrina, ExxonMobil's oil rigs in the Gulf got wrecked, and the natural gas they used to use as a manufacturing agent got too expensive, so they switched to using chemically-modified existing base stocks instead of manufactured stock. Now I am not saying M1 is bad, because it's better than running regular dyno, What I am saying is that M1 is not worth what you pay for today, Castrol Edge Syntec and Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic are the same price as M1 and Better. It comes down to the fact that CE and PP are new kids on the block, M1 was the king but has changed it's formula in the past few years to make it cheaper to produce.

Sure for 99% of the cars on the road M1 is a perfect oil for most, but if you are hard on your car like mustang enthusiasts can be I prefer using an oil that will protect my engine.

again if you see my posts at Bob is the Oil Guy (although not scientific) I show compelling evidence that a 100% Synthetic like Royal Purple vastly outperforms M1. I ran my car hard over the last 7 years, many many 1320 runs, several laps at VIR, and 95,000 miles of Washington DC traffic and my car runs as good as the day I bought it. One thing this does prove is that oil is the key to making your engine perform and last.

Don't take my word for it, but do the research yourself.

Anyway back to the OP's issue. 107,000 miles is not bad for todays motors; A ford tech said on another forum that the Mod motor can go up one weight in oil after 100,000 miles. So if you live in the south a 10w30 will work fine for you. in colder areas you want to focus more on the first number, it is the winter rating. the lower is better because it will flow better in cold climates
at startup.

the second number is operating temperature rating higher the thicker it stays and the less it thins out. This is important in warmer climates

The winter rating shows its sutible for use in the winter.

Motor Oil Viscosity
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2K05GT
las97GT and secomejia

What do you mean? I would not joke about that.

The OP would not have any issues running the heavy weight oil for the short period, I know in the case of a push rod motor it a not issue but the modular motors have a tight tolerance and I am sure the 50 weight oil would not cause any damage in the short term other than performance and gas mileage I don't think the oil pump and cams / followers working a bit harder is going to be an issue, but why not play it safe and add an oil additive ? it can't hurt.

Or are you commenting on the M1 Oil quality? if so than yes M1 is not what it used to be, Castrol Edge is a far better fully synthetic than M1. I think it started Post Katrina, ExxonMobil's oil rigs in the Gulf got wrecked, and the natural gas they used to use as a manufacturing agent got too expensive, so they switched to using chemically-modified existing base stocks instead of manufactured stock. Now I am not saying M1 is bad, because it's better than running regular dyno, What I am saying is that M1 is not worth what you pay for today, Castrol Edge Syntec and Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic are the same price as M1 and Better. It comes down to the fact that CE and PP are new kids on the block, M1 was the king but has changed it's formula in the past few years to make it cheaper to produce.

Sure for 99% of the cars on the road M1 is a perfect oil for most, but if you are hard on your car like mustang enthusiasts can be I prefer using an oil that will protect my engine.

again if you see my posts at Bob is the Oil Guy (although not scientific) I show compelling evidence that a 100% Synthetic like Royal Purple vastly outperforms M1. I ran my car hard over the last 7 years, many many 1320 runs, several laps at VIR, and 95,000 miles of Washington DC traffic and my car runs as good as the day I bought it. One thing this does prove is that oil is the key to making your engine perform and last.

Don't take my word for it, but do the research yourself.

Anyway back to the OP's issue. 107,000 miles is not bad for todays motors; A ford tech said on another forum that the Mod motor can go up one weight in oil after 100,000 miles. So if you live in the south a 10w30 will work fine for you. in colder areas you want to focus more on the first number, it is the winter rating. the lower is better because it will flow better in cold climates
at startup.

the second number is operating temperature rating higher the thicker it stays and the less it thins out. This is important in warmer climates

The winter rating shows its sutible for use in the winter.

Motor Oil Viscosity
My father drove his 911 Carrara4S for years in DC, got his instructor Licence at summit point and drove more then a few Laps at VIR all with M1.. It's what comes in Porsches(his 04 anyway) and works great for my GT.. Just my $.02
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:24 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadsp0t

My father drove his 911 Carrara4S for years in DC, got his instructor Licence at summit point and drove more then a few Laps at VIR all with M1.. It's what comes in Porsches(his 04 anyway) and works great for my GT.. Just my $.02
+1
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:38 AM   #19
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Run 1 quart of Lucas and a good 5w30. There will never be a problem. Ive run that forever with mod motors and ls based engine s
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:59 AM   #20
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Re: 2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadsp0t View Post
My father drove his 911 Carrara4S for years in DC, got his instructor Licence at summit point and drove more then a few Laps at VIR all with M1.. It's what comes in Porsches(his 04 anyway) and works great for my GT.. Just my $.02
And again M1 is still a superior choice of oil over dyno oil and for 99% of car running it will never have issues.

M1 was the Fully Synthetic King for many years, but the last couple of years it's quality went way down. but yet we still pay top $$ for it; Why?. Do a search on the Use Oil analysis reports on M1, I have collected hundreds that have deen done over the past 5 years and you can clearly see a drop in the M1 quality around 2009. I was once a M1 user in every car I owned but when I bought my 2005 Mustang GT I wanted to use a 100% Synthetic oil not a Dyno cracked one. so I choose Royal Purple because I could buy it at local autoparts stores. I did not expect the results I got when I replaced my Cams and what my buddys car did with M1. I switched to Castrol Edge on my other cars, and more recently my wifes 2009 Dodge Durango Hybrid Dual Mode Hemi. The Durango does not use a starter to start the engine; because when you turn the key the electric circuits start only. when the hybrid motor needs power for charging or acceleration then the gas engine starts. When we ran M1 we could feel the engine start, the vehicle would shake a bit but when I switched to Castrol Edge we can't feel the engine start now, it's seamless from electric to gas.
My mom has a 2000 Saturn SL2, a few years ago while driving back from PA she spun a bearing; I got the car back home and replaced the pistons, rods and crank, filled it with M1 and I drove it around for a while to make sure it was ok, I noticed that the engine was very noisy lots of light knocking or tapping noise, I continued to drive it for months, draining the oil every 2000 mi for 8 months. well when I repaced the oil in the durango with CE I also did the Saturn. well the engine is as quiet as a new one now. again not scientific just my experience.
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:58 AM   #21
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Re: 2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

My Origional Pictures from my EXPIRENCE with M1 and RP


I was talking to a guy online about the results, He was kind enought to GIVE me his 2006 Mustang GT CAMS, Mobil 1 since the day you brought it home. No Racing ever, never modded, until he installed the FRPP CAMS at 35,000 miles.
He Never drove the Car in Snow or Ice, (Like Me) he changed the Oil 3000-4000 miles. Warmed it up before he drove it (Remote Starter) He is a Car Show type. Massive Audio system..
He installed the FRPP Cams for the Thumping sound..

2006 Mustang GT (Top) M1 5w20
2007 Mustang GT (Middle) M1 5w20
2005 Mustang GT (Bottom) RP 5w20


Not My Post.
Quote:
here are a few pics of the cams on an 08 Mustang GT with around 7500 miles on it that belonged to a customer of mine . I had taken the valve covers off to have them painted while putting a supercharger on it . Up to this point , he has run M1 ,changed it at 2000, then again at 4000 miles. Was due another one after the work was finished.I want everyone to remember this while looking at the pics. He runs this car like it was stolen!
2005 Mustang GT with 61,400 miles, he also used RP the entire time. His car is a Manual and drives the snot out of it, he has already killed one clutch. He is removing the covers to have them powder coated.

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Old 01-29-2012, 12:24 PM   #22
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To the original OP!... 5w20 is what you need for your car!.. And yes 6 is better than 5 but I would not do more than 6 unless you are doing some serious road course racing!...

---------- Post added at 01:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:22 PM ----------

And personally I would use Royal Purple!.. I would not recommend any synthetic blends, they are just a waste of money!...
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:18 PM   #23
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Re: 2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Black99Snake View Post
And the oil amount should only be 4 1/2-5 not six
All 97 and up 4.6s take atleast 6 quarts to reach the max fill line.

---------- Post added at 01:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------

Oh and by adding a heavier weight oil, you are starving the mains for oil and will likely develop a bottom end knock. if your lash adjusters have a slight tick like the litters used to make on an OHV engine you just need to replace them, not compensate by changing your oil weight to 10w-30 or higher.
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:57 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobrarunnin9s

All 97 and up 4.6s take atleast 6 quarts to reach the max fill line.

---------- Post added at 01:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------

Oh and by adding a heavier weight oil, you are starving the mains for oil and will likely develop a bottom end knock. if your lash adjusters have a slight tick like the litters used to make on an OHV engine you just need to replace them, not compensate by changing your oil weight to 10w-30 or higher.
Um I'm not sure where you get that little 6 quarts fact. Mine takes 5, ford says it takes 5 for a 2V and 6 for a 3V. I think I would know, I was a lube tech for them.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:11 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Um I'm not sure where you get that little 6 quarts fact. Mine takes 5, ford says it takes 5 for a 2V and 6 for a 3V. I think I would know, I was a lube tech for them.
Per alldata, and every time I did my oil change, it states 6qts plus or minus a 1/4 of a qt. mine full was 5.8, I always went with 6 due to the amount of track days I attend. To my understanding, unless older 2v's were different, you were under filling them. Granted the number I provided was with filter change. Hell it even list older model (98 and under) as taking 6.4qts for manual car. Now mine has a baffled road race pan that takes 9.5qts. Now thats an expensive oil change, lol!
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:18 PM   #26
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If your car is just a DD and never sees the track then 5qts is fine!.. But if you go to the track on a regular bases your better off with 6!..
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eturner
If your car is just a DD and never sees the track then 5qts is fine!.. But if you go to the track on a regular bases your better off with 6!..
I don't understand why you wouldn't go with whats recommended. If you put less in than what recommended then your just asking for trouble .
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadows

Per alldata, and every time I did my oil change, it states 6qts plus or minus a 1/4 of a qt. mine full was 5.8, I always went with 6 due to the amount of track days I attend. To my understanding, unless older 2v's were different, you were under filling them. Granted the number I provided was with filter change. Hell it even list older model (98 and under) as taking 6.4qts for manual car. Now mine has a baffled road race pan that takes 9.5qts. Now thats an expensive oil change, lol!
I'll have to double check mine, but I believe mine took 5 to the top of the line. I don't know. I never used AllData at Ford but I did notice that some of their specs were different from what the engine took, so it's possible they were wrong about 4.6s
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:35 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF

I'll have to double check mine, but I believe mine took 5 to the top of the line. I don't know. I never used AllData at Ford but I did notice that some of their specs were different from what the engine took, so it's possible they were wrong about 4.6s
Wasn't wrong with mine, but all engines are not created equal, even ones made similar. I've seen the same type of car, all the same parts, make different number on the dyno, so far and so forth.
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:00 PM   #30
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Re: 2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF View Post
Um I'm not sure where you get that little 6 quarts fact. Mine takes 5, ford says it takes 5 for a 2V and 6 for a 3V. I think I would know, I was a lube tech for them.
Alldata, mitchell and Haynes/Chilton manuals all say 6, plus I know for a fact mines takes about 6.25
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:57 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadows

I don't understand why you wouldn't go with whats recommended. If you put less in than what recommended then your just asking for trouble .
Most model years with the 2v 4.6 say 5-5.5!.. Mine calls for 5.5!.. I have a few buddies that do some auto cross events in their Stangs put as much as 8 in with out a problem!.. For me 6 is just an even safe number!..
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:27 PM   #32
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Per my mustang owners manual!
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:36 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadows
Per my mustang owners manual!
Wow. Good to know.
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:46 PM   #34
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Re: 2000 GT quick question about the Oil..

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Per my mustang owners manual!
+1
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:51 PM   #35
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That is without an oil filter ... Add about one more quart for that with an fl820 motor craft filter . Which would be near 6

---------- Post added at 10:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:49 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newline
That is without an oil filter ... Add about one more quart for that with an fl820 motor craft filter . Which would be near 6
To the 5 quart guys
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