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Old 03-10-2012, 04:00 PM   #36
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Don't forget that sometimes we are talking about 2 different engines; pushrod and modular. I grew up on the older pushrod engines, and making 1 horsepower per 1 cubic inch of displacement was tough, especially without superchargers or turbo chargers. The modular engines are a different breed with the overhead cams, and 430 horses from the factory with a 5.0L / modular 302 ci isn't unusual, so it doesn't take much to hit the 500 mark.
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:27 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by austinknoll
I think a 4 valve swap would see goo gains too. I'm not sure it's just what I heard.
How do I achieve a 4 valve swap. I'm interested.

---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:22 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by K Twisted

2014 and 1/2 is Mustang's 50th. First Mustang came out in 1964 1/2.
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:51 PM   #38
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Cool Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

[QUOTE=LAS97GT;1083123]How do I achieve a 4 valve swap. I'm interested.[COLOR="Silver"]

The same 4.6L block can be used with 2v, 3v, and 4v engines. The 4v is a head swap and a few other components. The big differences with these engines is the PCM (the computer), a few extra wires, and the fuel system.

For a 4v swap, you will need the heads, the fuel injectors, make sure your fuel pump is up to the task, some more wiring, and the proper PCM for that engine. You can not flash a 2v PCM to run a 4v engine,

Moddified Mustangs Fast Fords mag and 5.0 Mustangs mag both have written articles about the swap. And someone once wrote about their swap at Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, Marauder, and Towncar. And I believe I've also read about it on a couple of other Mustang forums like Corral.net and All Ford Mustangs
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:34 AM   #39
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
How do I achieve a 4 valve swap. I'm interested.

---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:22 PM ----------



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Old 03-14-2012, 08:01 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by K Twisted View Post
However, if you really are set on HP.. here goes:
-Proper sized exhaust- long tube headers, X or H pipe depending on sound preferance, no cats, high flow mufflers.
-CAI
-Tune
-Upgraded ignition (I like MSD's coil over plugs and NGK's Iridium IX spark plugs)
-Underdrive pullies (not to add power, but to free up power)
-Electric fan (if you don't already have one, again for same reason)
-Lightweight flywheel and driveshaft (same reasons)
-Synthetic Oil (less resistance which ties into freeing HP up)
-Cooler thermostat
-Reverse flow water pump (better to cool the heads first where the heat is generated than to allow the coolant to flow through the engine warming up the whole time before finally flowing through the heads)
These are all basic starting mods to add a bit of HP and free up a decent amount, although they may not necessarily get you to your goal at the rear wheels. In order to do that, some more in depth mods that cost a bit more are probably required...
-Upgrade your heads. PI heads are a good start, but Trickflows can flow even better
-Get a good port and pollish job to allow even more air in

-Upgrade fuel pump (more air requires more fuel unless you wanna run lean and blow up your engine.)
I also added:
-Tokico/HR suspension upgrades
-BBK 78mm Throttle Body
-King Cobra Clutch
-Short Throw Shifter
-4.10 Ford Racing Gears
-K&N High Flow Air Filter
OP, thanks for post, I'm in same boat, my first 4.6, a 99 Gt.

K Twisted, thanks for great outline.

This is where I'm at with mine, I'm hoping for 350+ rwhp on my next dyno based on previous results and new mods. My best track time is like 13.00@108 on some bad tires. With Slicks 12s would be no problem.

Anyway, thing runs like a raped ape, no issues from suspension/wheel hop to the way it handles and runs.

My question is, the items I have bolded above I HAVE NOT performed on the beast as of yet. Quite frankly they weren't on my list so thanks again for some obscure mods that may be necessary.

How necessary is the fuel pump update in my present condition?

Thanks for all the great answers folks.

It's a GT, Just added Cobra R Wheels and fender emblem(I know, I know, I'll be changing the fender emblem back to stock probably).
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:43 PM   #41
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelStander View Post
OP, thanks for post, I'm in same boat, my first 4.6, a 99 Gt.

K Twisted, thanks for great outline.

This is where I'm at with mine, I'm hoping for 350+ rwhp on my next dyno based on previous results and new mods. My best track time is like 13.00@108 on some bad tires. With Slicks 12s would be no problem.

Anyway, thing runs like a raped ape, no issues from suspension/wheel hop to the way it handles and runs.

My question is, the items I have bolded above I HAVE NOT performed on the beast as of yet. Quite frankly they weren't on my list so thanks again for some obscure mods that may be necessary.

How necessary is the fuel pump update in my present condition?

Thanks for all the great answers folks.

It's a GT, Just added Cobra R Wheels and fender emblem(I know, I know, I'll be changing the fender emblem back to stock probably).
Typically, you really shouldn't need to upgrade your fuel pump until you upgrade your injectors which usually happens with some sort of power adder like a turbo or supercharger. However, if you have aftermarket heads that have been ported, and you have a larger TB and aftermarket cams.. and you have a full exhaust, upgrading your fuel pump certainly wouldn't hurt. If you're not running into any lean conditions, than it's probably not necessary, but if you have a tune and things just aren't working well together, I would consider it.
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:18 PM   #42
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Thanks man. Cam intake and fuel injectors are next.
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:25 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K Twisted

Typically, you really shouldn't need to upgrade your fuel pump until you upgrade your injectors which usually happens with some sort of power adder like a turbo or supercharger. However, if you have aftermarket heads that have been ported, and you have a larger TB and aftermarket cams.. and you have a full exhaust, upgrading your fuel pump certainly wouldn't hurt. If you're not running into any lean conditions, than it's probably not necessary, but if you have a tune and things just aren't working well together, I would consider it.
Yeah, I tuned now my valves are playing tap. You may have a point there cuz I have the TB & the exhaust mods, also CAI. Header upgrade next week. I see the valve cover coming off already.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:41 PM   #44
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by K Twisted View Post
I'm not exactly sure who you're talking about when you say that if you threw specs out there that they would pale in comparison to what you've seen on here... or when you say that you have come across "strange folks that consistently fail to meet professional standards in auto mechanics", LMAO, but I'll give my advice if you want it. Since it has non-PI heads, although expensive, a head swap would be a good way to go. Remember that power is directly proportionate to the amount of air that you can get into your combustion chamber, how well you can burn it, and how well you can get it out or exhaust it. My recomendations to build a NA motor to make a decent amount of power are as follows, but I do understang budget plays a big role in the final decision. One quick question for you... I know you want "power", but are you looking for a kick in the pants, or are you trying to prove something on the dyno, or is there another reason you want it? I ask, because a gear swap is a great way to really feel that kick in the pants and it's fairly cheap in comparison to "power building". However, if you really are set on HP.. here goes:

-Proper sized exhaust- long tube headers, X or H pipe depending on sound preferance, no cats, high flow mufflers.
-CAI
-Tune
-Upgraded ignition (I like MSD's coil over plugs and NGK's Iridium IX spark plugs)
-Underdrive pullies (not to add power, but to free up power)
-Electric fan (if you don't already have one, again for same reason)
-Lightweight flywheel and driveshaft (same reasons)
-Synthetic Oil (less resistance which ties into freeing HP up)
-Cooler thermostat
-Reverse flow water pump (better to cool the heads first where the heat is generated than to allow the coolant to flow through the engine warming up the whole time before finally flowing through the heads)
These are all basic starting mods to add a bit of HP and free up a decent amount, although they may not necessarily get you to your goal at the rear wheels. In order to do that, some more in depth mods that cost a bit more are probably required...
-Upgrade your heads. PI heads are a good start, but Trickflows can flow even better
-Get a good port and pollish job to allow even more air in
-Get a valve job done. 3 angle valve jobs are common, but a 5 angle is also really good.
-Upgrade fuel pump (more air requires more fuel unless you wanna run lean and blow up your engine.)
-Upgrade cams
-Upgrade Throttle Body
After all that, if you really wanna pull out the big guns.. you can tear into your engine..
-Bore or stroke depending on tolerances and HP vs Torque wants/needs/requirements
-New crankshaft (preferably planed and lightweight)
-New rods
-New pistons (go with a Dykes top ring and a gapless bottom ring for some nice benefits there)
-Upgrade injectors
-High flow intake manifold
These mods will require you to redo some of the earlier mods if you've already done them. These upgrades will require blueprinting your engine to make sure it all works together. These mods are not cheap, but they will get you to your required goal. The one key factor in determining these mods is just how much HP and torque you want, the RPM range you want them, the character of the engine you want to have, the type of fuel or octane you want to run, fuel consumption, and various other factors. The BIGGEST factor is budget. I hope all this helps, and you want further information I would be glad to help in whatever way I can. I know some things might need a further explanation and that's fine, and if you wanted, I could even help blueprint your engine and make some good recomendations, but I would need more info from you as well. Lemme know, and again, hope this helps. Good luck!!
Hey E, I read your post a few. I am leaning toward trick flow heads. Question, can I use track heat as NA and get away with it ( I know wha the site said)? the lower mod does not allow for FI. What you think? I want to do the TF header before the TF Intake manifold. Will that be a problem?

Here are some problems I am having. I still have a valve sound from my motor under load, any ideas?

bottom line I want to stay natural aspirated. what you think? I'll find a coupe racer later.

---------- Post added at 09:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
Hey E, I read your post a few. I am leaning toward trick flow heads. Question, can I use track heat as NA and get away with it ( I know wha the site said)? the lower mod does not allow for FI. What you think? I want to do the TF header before the TF Intake manifold. Will that be a problem?

Here are some problems I am having. I still have a valve sound from my motor under load, any ideas?

bottom line I want to stay natural aspirated. what you think? I'll find a coupe racer later.
-Proper sized exhaust- long tube headers, X or H pipe depending on sound preferance, no cats, high flow mufflers.
A: I have BBK shortys
-CAI
A: I have Steeda CAI under hood mod
-Tune
A: I have Live wire but not Bama.
-Upgraded ignition (I like MSD's coil over plugs and NGK's Iridium IX spark plugs)
I have MSD coils but not booster.
-Underdrive pullies (not to add power, but to free up power)
A: not sure I'll do that yet
-Electric fan (if you don't already have one, again for same reason)
A: got it.
-Lightweight flywheel and driveshaft (same reasons)
A: my HB needs changing as it causes engine vibration; working on it
-Synthetic Oil (less resistance which ties into freeing HP up)
A: I use mobil 1
-Cooler thermostat
A: explain
-Reverse flow water pump (better to cool the heads first where the heat is generated than to allow the coolant to flow through the engine warming up the whole time before finally flowing through the heads)
A: weird stuff, explain
-Upgrade your heads. PI heads are a good start, but Trickflows can flow even better
I want trick flows (285s if I recall)
-Get a good port and pollish job to allow even more air in
A: I know where to go
-Get a valve job done. 3 angle valve jobs are common, but a 5 angle is also really good.
-Upgrade fuel pump (more air requires more fuel unless you wanna run lean and blow up your engine.)
A: whats wrong with stock?
-Upgrade cams
A; agreed
-Upgrade Throttle Body
A: done, at 75 MM

-Bore or stroke depending on tolerances and HP vs Torque wants/needs/requirements
A: true. already found shop with skill. etc.
-New crankshaft (preferably planed and lightweight)
A; down the road
-New rods
A: considering it due to O-300 plan
-New pistons (go with a Dykes top ring and a gapless bottom ring for some nice benefits there)
A: expensive. any other options? daily dvr here.
-Upgrade injectors
A: 24s waiting in the mist
-High flow intake manifold
A: Trick flow eventually

Ok E, kik it.
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:14 PM   #45
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
Yeah, I tuned now my valves are playing tap. You may have a point there cuz I have the TB & the exhaust mods, also CAI. Header upgrade next week. I see the valve cover coming off already.
Replaced my alternator, due to it pushing only 101 amps up from 81 after a load test and replacing the regulator. Now the ticks have dropped a whole lot. The lesson learned; can't build HP without electricity. So, eliminate the spark iginition knock. I can now tune to 93 octane witout problems.

---------- Post added at 09:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:06 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmeaux View Post
Don't forget that sometimes we are talking about 2 different engines; pushrod and modular. I grew up on the older pushrod engines, and making 1 horsepower per 1 cubic inch of displacement was tough, especially without superchargers or turbo chargers. The modular engines are a different breed with the overhead cams, and 430 horses from the factory with a 5.0L / modular 302 ci isn't unusual, so it doesn't take much to hit the 500 mark.
I've been courting the 302 total motor swap but I am not sure about it now. I do want to keep the 2 valve afterall. Not to mention keeping it NA. Its going to be a challenge. I like challenges. Right now I am tinkering with moving cooler air to the intake using fiberglass molding to shape airflow. Problem is how to build a mold, then shape the fiberglass to match. It will take me a bit if I dont get discouraged.
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