Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve - Mustang Evolution

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Old 02-28-2012, 05:40 PM   #1
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Lightbulb Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Anyone know what is the best/highest HP output I can expect with a 4.6L 2 valve? I am building a 1997 GT Vert slowly, and envision 300-350 at the engine, and 250 at the wheels without forced induction (hopefully).

Currently, my best output is 185 at the wheels (dyno pull), but I feel with some valve adjustments, spark advance improvement, and so on, I can get past 200 without breaking my engine. I do have a canned tune. Air and exhaust flow is almost maxed out (stock ECU out can't keep up). I have been building from the bottom up. I am a serious enthuasist looking for serious answers, but any input will be welcome. I'd throw some specs out there but it would pale to what I've seen on the forum so far. My latest accomplishments is rescuing my Mach Audio Kicker Audio system (stock dual amps). I plan on doing my shorty headers next month. Was going to have a pro do it till I had to buy front end rubber due to road hazard destroying my Nittos.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:45 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Anyone know what is the best/highest HP output I can expect with a 4.6L 2 valve? I am building a 1997 GT Vert slowly, and envision 300-350 at the engine, and 250 at the wheels without forced induction (hopefully).

Currently, my best output is 185 at the wheels (dyno pull), but I feel with some valve adjustments, spark advance improvement, and so on, I can get past 200 without breaking my engine. I do have a canned tune. Air and exhaust flow is almost maxed out (stock ECU out can't keep up). I have been building from the bottom up. I am a serious enthuasist looking for serious answers, but any input will be welcome. I'd throw some specs out there but it would pale to what I've seen on the forum so far. My latest accomplishments is rescuing my Mach Audio Kicker Audio system (stock dual amps). I plan on doing my shorty headers next month. Was going to have a pro do it till I had to buy front end rubber due to road hazard destroying my Nittos.
Anything is possible with the right parts and cash!.. If you haven't done it/considered it, go for a PI swap!.. You will notice some nice gains then!..
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Anyone know what is the best/highest HP output I can expect with a 4.6L 2 valve? I am building a 1997 GT Vert slowly, and envision 300-350 at the engine, and 250 at the wheels without forced induction (hopefully).

Currently, my best output is 185 at the wheels (dyno pull), but I feel with some valve adjustments, spark advance improvement, and so on, I can get past 200 without breaking my engine. I do have a canned tune. Air and exhaust flow is almost maxed out (stock ECU out can't keep up). I have been building from the bottom up. I am a serious enthuasist looking for serious answers, but any input will be welcome. I'd throw some specs out there but it would pale to what I've seen on the forum so far. My latest accomplishments is rescuing my Mach Audio Kicker Audio system (stock dual amps). I plan on doing my shorty headers next month. Was going to have a pro do it till I had to buy front end rubber due to road hazard destroying my Nittos.
Well, you can get trick flow heads and be around 330+ at the wheels. But like the other guy said a pi head swap would also give you a nice gain in horses. Around I would say 230ish at the wheels probably.
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:47 PM   #4
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Don't waste your money with shorty headers as you will probably only net a few HP & tq. If anything go long tubes and finsh it off with a good h-pipe and cat back + a cold air intake etc. If you go with a PI swap and do these mods also you will be right where you want to be around 250hp.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:40 PM   #5
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Ok, great feedback from all you. Guess I do need to list my upgrades after all. Here's my progress, and I dont see any going back. I'll try to keep it in perspective.

Black 1997 Mustang GT Convertible, premium package for model year.
Wheels: Mustang 1995 Bullit Black Gun Metal Deep Dish, Rear, wrapped with 285/35/18Nittos. Mustang 1995 Bullit Black Gun Metal, Shallow,Front, wrapped with 255/40/17 front (for clearance & traction).
Engine & Exhaust: BBK/Edlebrock Throttle Body 75mm, cylindrical; 130 Amp Alternator (running at 101 Amps, changed regulator to gain increase from 81 Amps); Steeda CAI, under hood (removed from fender well), 12 in, shielded filter; BBK Exhaust X-Pipe (upgraded from 6 to 2 Cats); Flowmaster 40 series muffler, 2.5 inch; MSD Ignition Coils and wires.

Suspension: Replaced 100% with Energy Bushings (retained all stock control arms).

Repairs to Stock Equipment: Steering Gear; Steering Pump; Hydroboost Breaks and Steering system.

Repairs Due: Rear Differential including gear upgrade, 8.8; replace Front and Rear Crankshaft bushings; Upgrade front brakes to larger disks (don't know what size yet).

Ok folks, there it is. Most other upgrades to interior and so on don't improve the drive train so I won't bother to mention them. Such as car has a new carpet etc. Grave to Show Room Finish, hopefully.

Now then, working with what I got, where do I go from here?
What is PI? Does that refer to Forced Induction and the name of a manufacturered component?

Background: A year ago I found a Mustang and bough it. I do almost 100% of the mods myself. This is my first Mustang. I've come across some strange folks that consistently fail to meet professional standards in auto mechanics, so I am here at the forum to learn from dedicated enthusaists like myself who will be realistic in their analysis and answers. Thanks in advance too. Hope to see you folks in Car Shows one day. P.S. You can miss me. My license plates are my handle. Thanks.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Ok, great feedback from all you. Guess I do need to list my upgrades after all. Here's my progress, and I dont see any going back. I'll try to keep it in perspective.

Black 1997 Mustang GT Convertible, premium package for model year.
Wheels: Mustang 1995 Bullit Black Gun Metal Deep Dish, Rear, wrapped with 285/35/18Nittos. Mustang 1995 Bullit Black Gun Metal, Shallow,Front, wrapped with 255/40/17 front (for clearance & traction).
Engine & Exhaust: BBK/Edlebrock Throttle Body 75mm, cylindrical; 130 Amp Alternator (running at 101 Amps, changed regulator to gain increase from 81 Amps); Steeda CAI, under hood (removed from fender well), 12 in, shielded filter; BBK Exhaust X-Pipe (upgraded from 6 to 2 Cats); Flowmaster 40 series muffler, 2.5 inch; MSD Ignition Coils and wires.

Suspension: Replaced 100% with Energy Bushings (retained all stock control arms).

Repairs to Stock Equipment: Steering Gear; Steering Pump; Hydroboost Breaks and Steering system.

Repairs Due: Rear Differential including gear upgrade, 8.8; replace Front and Rear Crankshaft bushings; Upgrade front brakes to larger disks (don't know what size yet).

Ok folks, there it is. Most other upgrades to interior and so on don't improve the drive train so I won't bother to mention them. Such as car has a new carpet etc. Grave to Show Room Finish, hopefully.

Now then, working with what I got, where do I go from here?
What is PI? Does that refer to Forced Induction and the name of a manufacturered component?

Background: A year ago I found a Mustang and bough it. I do almost 100% of the mods myself. This is my first Mustang. I've come across some strange folks that consistently fail to meet professional standards in auto mechanics, so I am here at the forum to learn from dedicated enthusaists like myself who will be realistic in their analysis and answers. Thanks in advance too. Hope to see you folks in Car Shows one day. P.S. You can miss me. My license plates are my handle. Thanks.
PI stands for Performance Improved!.. It is in regards to the type of heads and intake manifold used in the '99-'04 GT vs the '96-'98 GT!..
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:41 PM   #7
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Don't forget that putting PI heads on a non-PI short block will kick the compression up to 10.5:1 making higher octane fuel necessary. But it sure is a kick in the pants moving those wheels around and around.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:24 PM   #8
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How do PI heads bump up the compression to 10.5.1 on a non PI motor when the compression ratio is 9.5.1 on a PI motor?
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:28 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Rm360
How do PI heads bump up the compression to 10.5.1 on a non PI motor when the compression ratio is 9.5.1 on a PI motor?
It doesn't actually bump compression that much, but close to it!.. It has to do with the shape of the pistons on the non PI motor!..
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:25 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Eturner

It doesn't actually bump compression that much, but close to it!.. It has to do with the shape of the pistons on the non PI motor!..
Thanks! I never knew that. What type of piston is it? Is it a flat top, or a dome top?
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:35 AM   #11
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Thanks! I never knew that. What type of piston is it? Is it a flat top, or a dome top?
That I don't know off hand!.. Just know that it is a different design!..
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:39 AM   #12
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

The pistons on a non-PI engine are dished with a volume of about 12cc, where the PI engine pistons had a volume about18cc (I'm trying to remember without looking it up online.) The Non-PI heads had a volume of like 53cc, whereas the PI heads had a volume of 42cc. By putting the non-PI piston with the PI head, you have the least amount of volume in the combustion chamber available (higher pressures).
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:56 AM   #13
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I think a 4 valve swap would see goo gains too. I'm not sure it's just what I heard.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:06 AM   #14
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Get a tuner, and a 75hp shot of nitrous, no it won't hurt your engine, just back down your timing 3 degrees and run the same heat range spark plug as an 03' cobra, it's gonna give u the most bang for your buck. That going to be the easiest, a head swap is expensive and very involved if u screw it up u will bend valves and score pistons, I've run nitrous for years and have had no issues as long as u have a good tune you are just fine, plus nitrous means a purge a valve
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:53 PM   #15
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I have a live wire tune already. Wanted to work my way up to a consistent HP range w/out turning on a gas bottle. Hey, it's a vert, but I want a vert with a little kick. I still got a ways to go including rear end rebuilding, fine tuning suspension, and more.
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:31 AM   #16
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

I'm not exactly sure who you're talking about when you say that if you threw specs out there that they would pale in comparison to what you've seen on here... or when you say that you have come across "strange folks that consistently fail to meet professional standards in auto mechanics", LMAO, but I'll give my advice if you want it. Since it has non-PI heads, although expensive, a head swap would be a good way to go. Remember that power is directly proportionate to the amount of air that you can get into your combustion chamber, how well you can burn it, and how well you can get it out or exhaust it. My recomendations to build a NA motor to make a decent amount of power are as follows, but I do understang budget plays a big role in the final decision. One quick question for you... I know you want "power", but are you looking for a kick in the pants, or are you trying to prove something on the dyno, or is there another reason you want it? I ask, because a gear swap is a great way to really feel that kick in the pants and it's fairly cheap in comparison to "power building". However, if you really are set on HP.. here goes:

-Proper sized exhaust- long tube headers, X or H pipe depending on sound preferance, no cats, high flow mufflers.
-CAI
-Tune
-Upgraded ignition (I like MSD's coil over plugs and NGK's Iridium IX spark plugs)
-Underdrive pullies (not to add power, but to free up power)
-Electric fan (if you don't already have one, again for same reason)
-Lightweight flywheel and driveshaft (same reasons)
-Synthetic Oil (less resistance which ties into freeing HP up)
-Cooler thermostat
-Reverse flow water pump (better to cool the heads first where the heat is generated than to allow the coolant to flow through the engine warming up the whole time before finally flowing through the heads)
These are all basic starting mods to add a bit of HP and free up a decent amount, although they may not necessarily get you to your goal at the rear wheels. In order to do that, some more in depth mods that cost a bit more are probably required...
-Upgrade your heads. PI heads are a good start, but Trickflows can flow even better
-Get a good port and pollish job to allow even more air in
-Get a valve job done. 3 angle valve jobs are common, but a 5 angle is also really good.
-Upgrade fuel pump (more air requires more fuel unless you wanna run lean and blow up your engine.)
-Upgrade cams
-Upgrade Throttle Body
After all that, if you really wanna pull out the big guns.. you can tear into your engine..
-Bore or stroke depending on tolerances and HP vs Torque wants/needs/requirements
-New crankshaft (preferably planed and lightweight)
-New rods
-New pistons (go with a Dykes top ring and a gapless bottom ring for some nice benefits there)
-Upgrade injectors
-High flow intake manifold
These mods will require you to redo some of the earlier mods if you've already done them. These upgrades will require blueprinting your engine to make sure it all works together. These mods are not cheap, but they will get you to your required goal. The one key factor in determining these mods is just how much HP and torque you want, the RPM range you want them, the character of the engine you want to have, the type of fuel or octane you want to run, fuel consumption, and various other factors. The BIGGEST factor is budget. I hope all this helps, and you want further information I would be glad to help in whatever way I can. I know some things might need a further explanation and that's fine, and if you wanted, I could even help blueprint your engine and make some good recomendations, but I would need more info from you as well. Lemme know, and again, hope this helps. Good luck!!
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:49 AM   #17
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

I ran across it somewhere, not sure where, but testing has shown that the non-PI heads flow BETTER than the PI heads, whether or not they have been ported. This is for the 2v variety. The 4v flow even better. But unless you plan on transferring your vehicle to a 4v which will involve wiring changes, new PCM (for your car), fuel system, and transplanting it into your car, you are better off staying with the 2v and adding a huffer of some sort, like turbo or supercharger. The mod engines really love the extra air flow, if the exhaust can flow it out.
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:57 AM   #18
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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Originally Posted by jdmeaux View Post
I ran across it somewhere, not sure where, but testing has shown that the non-PI heads flow BETTER than the PI heads, whether or not they have been ported. This is for the 2v variety. The 4v flow even better. But unless you plan on transferring your vehicle to a 4v which will involve wiring changes, new PCM (for your car), fuel system, and transplanting it into your car, you are better off staying with the 2v and adding a huffer of some sort, like turbo or supercharger. The mod engines really love the extra air flow, if the exhaust can flow it out.
Here's an article you should read. The whole thing is good, but regarding what you just stated I would advise to check out the section on cylinder heads. It's pretty good!! Hope this helps!!

http://www.sullivanperformance.com/yvs450/tech/tech.htm
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:06 PM   #19
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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Originally Posted by K Twisted View Post
Here's an article you should read. The whole thing is good, but regarding what you just stated I would advise to check out the section on cylinder heads. It's pretty good!! Hope this helps!!

http://www.sullivanperformance.com/yvs450/tech/tech.htm
Thanks K Twisted, that was the article I had read, plus about a half dozen others. Having a CVPI means that there is a lot I have to learn to see what CAN be done. But Old Grey will surprise a few people.

Now to begin planning on a forged rebuild and a dual-turbo system.
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1997 CVPI ** ex-U.S. Marshall Service (the CAR) I don't think it was stock from them ** 13.26@107.24 MPH w/ me, my tools, and a full tank Added CAI, Niche 19 x 8.5" wheels with 245/45ZR19 rubbers, and a complete front end rebuilt with poly
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:32 PM   #20
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Hey no problem.. anything I can do to help!!
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:28 PM   #21
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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Originally Posted by K Twisted View Post
I'm not exactly sure who you're talking about when you say that if you threw specs out there that they would pale in comparison to what you've seen on here... or when you say that you have come across "strange folks that consistently fail to meet professional standards in auto mechanics", LMAO, but I'll give my advice if you want it. Since it has non-PI heads, although expensive, a head swap would be a good way to go. Remember that power is directly proportionate to the amount of air that you can get into your combustion chamber, how well you can burn it, and how well you can get it out or exhaust it. My recomendations to build a NA motor to make a decent amount of power are as follows, but I do understang budget plays a big role in the final decision. One quick question for you... I know you want "power", but are you looking for a kick in the pants, or are you trying to prove something on the dyno, or is there another reason you want it? I ask, because a gear swap is a great way to really feel that kick in the pants and it's fairly cheap in comparison to "power building". However, if you really are set on HP.. here goes:

-Proper sized exhaust- long tube headers, X or H pipe depending on sound preferance, no cats, high flow mufflers.
-CAI
-Tune
-Upgraded ignition (I like MSD's coil over plugs and NGK's Iridium IX spark plugs)
-Underdrive pullies (not to add power, but to free up power)
-Electric fan (if you don't already have one, again for same reason)
-Lightweight flywheel and driveshaft (same reasons)
-Synthetic Oil (less resistance which ties into freeing HP up)
-Cooler thermostat
-Reverse flow water pump (better to cool the heads first where the heat is generated than to allow the coolant to flow through the engine warming up the whole time before finally flowing through the heads)
These are all basic starting mods to add a bit of HP and free up a decent amount, although they may not necessarily get you to your goal at the rear wheels. In order to do that, some more in depth mods that cost a bit more are probably required...
-Upgrade your heads. PI heads are a good start, but Trickflows can flow even better
-Get a good port and pollish job to allow even more air in
-Get a valve job done. 3 angle valve jobs are common, but a 5 angle is also really good.
-Upgrade fuel pump (more air requires more fuel unless you wanna run lean and blow up your engine.)
-Upgrade cams
-Upgrade Throttle Body
After all that, if you really wanna pull out the big guns.. you can tear into your engine..
-Bore or stroke depending on tolerances and HP vs Torque wants/needs/requirements
-New crankshaft (preferably planed and lightweight)
-New rods
-New pistons (go with a Dykes top ring and a gapless bottom ring for some nice benefits there)
-Upgrade injectors
-High flow intake manifold
These mods will require you to redo some of the earlier mods if you've already done them. These upgrades will require blueprinting your engine to make sure it all works together. These mods are not cheap, but they will get you to your required goal. The one key factor in determining these mods is just how much HP and torque you want, the RPM range you want them, the character of the engine you want to have, the type of fuel or octane you want to run, fuel consumption, and various other factors. The BIGGEST factor is budget. I hope all this helps, and you want further information I would be glad to help in whatever way I can. I know some things might need a further explanation and that's fine, and if you wanted, I could even help blueprint your engine and make some good recomendations, but I would need more info from you as well. Lemme know, and again, hope this helps. Good luck!!
K-twisted, Got it. BTW. the comment about professionalism and mechanics refered to where I live. I have to take care in NC, that's why I tend to stick with Competition Auto folks. Comment was not meant for the forum or anyone who ever provided a Stang Genius solution. I appreciate all, and pay a lot attention to your posts. Thanks again.

---------- Post added at 08:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:22 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
K-twisted, Got it. BTW. the comment about professionalism and mechanics refered to where I live. I have to take care in NC, that's why I tend to stick with Competition Auto folks. Comment was not meant for the forum or anyone who ever provided a Stang Genius solution. I appreciate all, and pay a lot attention to your posts. Thanks again.
I have found a few manuals on Stangs and mods. They even provide specs and part numbers. Problem they seem to start at 289 and my car is a 281 Ci. What gives? If I can find the 281 then I can learn from them, but so far no luck. Guess my ride is too old.
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:23 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by LAS97GT
I have a live wire tune already. Wanted to work my way up to a consistent HP range w/out turning on a gas bottle. Hey, it's a vert, but I want a vert with a little kick. I still got a ways to go including rear end rebuilding, fine tuning suspension, and more.
X10000 I'm the same way!
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:51 AM   #23
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
K-twisted, Got it. BTW. the comment about professionalism and mechanics refered to where I live. I have to take care in NC, that's why I tend to stick with Competition Auto folks. Comment was not meant for the forum or anyone who ever provided a Stang Genius solution. I appreciate all, and pay a lot attention to your posts. Thanks again.

---------- Post added at 08:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:22 PM ----------


I have found a few manuals on Stangs and mods. They even provide specs and part numbers. Problem they seem to start at 289 and my car is a 281 Ci. What gives? If I can find the 281 then I can learn from them, but so far no luck. Guess my ride is too old.
I was curious LOL.. some people on here really get me going with some of the advice they give. Thanks for checking out my posts. As for the 281/289 problem, I haven't found any manuals, but I know that there are a lot of tech articles from different magazine sources that are pretty good and have good information/advice in them. The two I like reading are 5.0 Mustangs and Super Fords, and MM&FF (Modified Mustangs and Fast Fords). They're sister magazines and share a lot of the same things in common. Both do some really good research on the latest parts out there. If they have a website, I would seriously check them out and see if you can't find some articles that they've written that concern what you're looking for. Hope this helps!!
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:45 AM   #24
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K-twisted, Got it. BTW. the comment about professionalism and mechanics refered to where I live. I have to take care in NC, that's why I tend to stick with Competition Auto folks. Comment was not meant for the forum or anyone who ever provided a Stang Genius solution. I appreciate all, and pay a lot attention to your posts. Thanks again.

---------- Post added at 08:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:22 PM ----------


I have found a few manuals on Stangs and mods. They even provide specs and part numbers. Problem they seem to start at 289 and my car is a 281 Ci. What gives? If I can find the 281 then I can learn from them, but so far no luck. Guess my ride is too old.
Ummmm... The 289ci has been out of production for quite some time now so age isn't the issue. The issue is more likely to do with the complexity of a modular OHC 281/4.6L v. A push rod 281ci engine. The idea of internal combustion is the same between the two but modular/OHC engines are far more intricate to work on, especially for beginners. The info is out there for sure though, maybe not as abundant as push rod info but it's out there.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:47 PM   #25
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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Ummmm... The 289ci has been out of production for quite some time now so age isn't the issue. The issue is more likely to do with the complexity of a modular OHC 281/4.6L v. A push rod 281ci engine. The idea of internal combustion is the same between the two but modular/OHC engines are far more intricate to work on, especially for beginners. The info is out there for sure though, maybe not as abundant as push rod info but it's out there.
Beginner on the forum maybe, but not so daft that I can't read and understand specs and manuals. Jargons on the other hand git me. Anyways, I can master and produce a desired outcome once I identify it. See you in the forums. Also, learned something about 289 ci cuz I never hear of it before I saw that manual.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #26
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I'm not exactly sure who you're talking about when you say that if you threw specs out there that they would pale in comparison to what you've seen on here... or when you say that you have come across "strange folks that consistently fail to meet professional standards in auto mechanics", LMAO, but I'll give my advice if you want it. Since it has non-PI heads, although expensive, a head swap would be a good way to go. Remember that power is directly proportionate to the amount of air that you can get into your combustion chamber, how well you can burn it, and how well you can get it out or exhaust it. My recomendations to build a NA motor to make a decent amount of power are as follows, but I do understang budget plays a big role in the final decision. One quick question for you... I know you want "power", but are you looking for a kick in the pants, or are you trying to prove something on the dyno, or is there another reason you want it? I ask, because a gear swap is a great way to really feel that kick in the pants and it's fairly cheap in comparison to "power building". However, if you really are set on HP.. here goes:

-Proper sized exhaust- long tube headers, X or H pipe depending on sound preferance, no cats, high flow mufflers.
-CAI
-Tune
-Upgraded ignition (I like MSD's coil over plugs and NGK's Iridium IX spark plugs)
-Underdrive pullies (not to add power, but to free up power)
-Electric fan (if you don't already have one, again for same reason)
-Lightweight flywheel and driveshaft (same reasons)
-Synthetic Oil (less resistance which ties into freeing HP up)
-Cooler thermostat
-Reverse flow water pump (better to cool the heads first where the heat is generated than to allow the coolant to flow through the engine warming up the whole time before finally flowing through the heads)
These are all basic starting mods to add a bit of HP and free up a decent amount, although they may not necessarily get you to your goal at the rear wheels. In order to do that, some more in depth mods that cost a bit more are probably required...
-Upgrade your heads. PI heads are a good start, but Trickflows can flow even better
-Get a good port and pollish job to allow even more air in
-Get a valve job done. 3 angle valve jobs are common, but a 5 angle is also really good.
-Upgrade fuel pump (more air requires more fuel unless you wanna run lean and blow up your engine.)
-Upgrade cams
-Upgrade Throttle Body
After all that, if you really wanna pull out the big guns.. you can tear into your engine..
-Bore or stroke depending on tolerances and HP vs Torque wants/needs/requirements
-New crankshaft (preferably planed and lightweight)
-New rods
-New pistons (go with a Dykes top ring and a gapless bottom ring for some nice benefits there)
-Upgrade injectors
-High flow intake manifold
These mods will require you to redo some of the earlier mods if you've already done them. These upgrades will require blueprinting your engine to make sure it all works together. These mods are not cheap, but they will get you to your required goal. The one key factor in determining these mods is just how much HP and torque you want, the RPM range you want them, the character of the engine you want to have, the type of fuel or octane you want to run, fuel consumption, and various other factors. The BIGGEST factor is budget. I hope all this helps, and you want further information I would be glad to help in whatever way I can. I know some things might need a further explanation and that's fine, and if you wanted, I could even help blueprint your engine and make some good recomendations, but I would need more info from you as well. Lemme know, and again, hope this helps. Good luck!!
Am listening. Thanks! See you around the forum.

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:17 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by K Twisted

I was curious LOL.. some people on here really get me going with some of the advice they give. Thanks for checking out my posts. As for the 281/289 problem, I haven't found any manuals, but I know that there are a lot of tech articles from different magazine sources that are pretty good and have good information/advice in them. The two I like reading are 5.0 Mustangs and Super Fords, and MM&FF (Modified Mustangs and Fast Fords). They're sister magazines and share a lot of the same things in common. Both do some really good research on the latest parts out there. If they have a website, I would seriously check them out and see if you can't find some articles that they've written that concern what you're looking for. Hope this helps!!
Man your on point. What your saying correspond s with what pros are saying.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:27 AM   #27
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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Am listening. Thanks! See you around the forum.

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:17 PM ----------



Man your on point. What your saying correspond s with what pros are saying.
I'm just glad I can help!! If you ever need any kind of blueprinting done, have an idea for an upgrade and want advice, or are trying to decide on the next upgrade and need advice or opinion, I'm here to help!! See you around.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:32 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Beginner on the forum maybe, but not so daft that I can't read and understand specs and manuals. Jargons on the other hand git me. Anyways, I can master and produce a desired outcome once I identify it. See you in the forums. Also, learned something about 289 ci cuz I never hear of it before I saw that manual.
The first V8 Stang's were 289's.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:59 AM   #29
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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The first V8 Stang's were 289's.
Thought this should be known by all of Mustang's TRUE enthusiasts. Note that it doesn't say 289, but "260".

Today in History – March 9th 1964 – First Ford Mustang rolls off assembly line. Ford sold 22,000 of the sporty car on the first day of sales in April 1965. The Mustang was one of the most successful product launches in automotive history with over one million units sold in its first 18 months. The craze continues today as new models capture America’s youthful spirit. The very first Mustang – the 1962 Mustang I Concept – made its debut in October 1962, and its name was a tribute to the legendary North American P51 Mustang fighter plane from World War II. The first regular production Mustang that rolled off the assembly line on March 9, 1964 was a Wimbledon White convertible with a 260-cubic inch V-8. Mustang is currently at its fifth generation since 2005.

-Brother's Performance



Please note that the mustang shown in the video is not the "very first mustang" off of the assembly line, as many of you will point out the "289" badge in the video.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:02 AM   #30
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Then 50th ani has passed? Someone forgot to tell Ford.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:04 AM   #31
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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Then 50th ani has passed? Someone forgot to tell Ford.
2014 and 1/2 is Mustang's 50th. First Mustang came out in 1964 1/2.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:11 AM   #32
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2014 and 1/2 is Mustang's 50th. First Mustang came out in 1964 1/2.
The 2015 will be the ani car. It's already been announced. The 64 1/2 had a 260?
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:19 AM   #33
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

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The 2015 will be the ani car. It's already been announced. The 64 1/2 had a 260?
Yessir it surely did. Later in the year in 1965 they realized that they could sell a bunch more by putting in a 289. If you want the full scoop and wanna actually see the first car, go to google and type in "first mustang ever" and then click on the first wikipedia link. The second paragraph down talks about the 1964 to 1973 mustangs and shows a small picture of the first one. If you click on the pic, it'll give a brief history of it and who photographed it and lists it as "Serial #1".
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:20 AM   #34
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Yessir it surely did. Later in the year in 1965 they realized that they could sell a bunch more by putting in a 289. If you want the full scoop and wanna actually see the first car, go to google and type in "first mustang ever" and then click on the first wikipedia link. The second paragraph down talks about the 1964 to 1973 mustangs and shows a small picture of the first one. If you click on the pic, it'll give a brief history of it and who photographed it and lists it as "Serial #1".
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:23 AM   #35
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Re: Best known HP for a 4.6L 2 valve

Wow, I just realized the way I put all that made me sound like kind of a d**k.. I gotta quit getting on here when I should be in bed LOL. Sorry for that.. just really amped up about mustangs and love being an enthusiast.
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