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Old 04-27-2012, 11:47 PM   #1
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Snapped exhaust manifold bolt...

So I was working on cantlin01's stang Doing a bbk X pipe and snapped a bolt on the drivers side exhaust manifold is there anything we can do or are we screwed....
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:04 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcvicar04
So I was working on cantlin01's stang Doing a bbk X pipe and snapped a bolt on the drivers side exhaust manifold is there anything we can do or are we screwed....
Did it break off flush ?
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:17 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcvicar04
So I was working on cantlin01's stang Doing a bbk X pipe and snapped a bolt on the drivers side exhaust manifold is there anything we can do or are we screwed....
I'd say try drilling it out then go to sears and get a tap tool set, then tap in a lil bigger bolt pattern. Then put a bigger bolt in it... Or buy headers...
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:22 AM   #4
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Yea it broke off so it when the new exhaust goes on its flush with that, im just trying to figure it out so he can drive it back to school Sunday night
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:28 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by mcvicar04
Yea it broke off so it when the new exhaust goes on its flush with that, im just trying to figure it out so he can drive it back to school Sunday night
I don't know man I really don't know if ya can drill and tap them manifolds but it's worth a try...
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:33 AM   #6
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Center punch the bolt, drill it out . Spray penitrating oil on it. For manifolds, I recommend aero kroil best on market. Buy an ez out kit , ther pretty cheap. Get the square kind , the twisted round kind don't work well. Drive ez out in and use wrench to turn it. If its a 5/16 bolt use a (3/16 - 11/64) drill bit. The kroil is the most important part. There's also a brand called twister that works well.

---------- Post added at 03:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:30 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew r Wright

I don't know man I really don't know if ya can drill and tap them manifolds but it's worth a try...
Shur you can

---------- Post added at 03:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:31 AM ----------

He shouldn't have to re tap if done correctly
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:42 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by tc x 4
Center punch the bolt, drill it out . Spray penitrating oil on it. For manifolds, I recommend aero kroil best on market. Buy an ez out kit , ther pretty cheap. Get the square kind , the twisted round kind don't work well. Drive ez out in and use wrench to turn it. If its a 5/16 bolt use a (3/16 - 11/64) drill bit. The kroil is the most important part. There's also a brand called twister that works well.

---------- Post added at 03:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:30 AM ----------



Shur you can

---------- Post added at 03:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:31 AM ----------

He shouldn't have to re tap if done correctly
I'm gonna have to save this thread in case I do the same thing.....
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew r Wright

I'm gonna have to save this thread in case I do the same thing.....
Get the aero kroil first and u won't. I order it on line at Kano labratories.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcvicar04
Yea it broke off so it when the new exhaust goes on its flush with that, im just trying to figure it out so he can drive it back to school Sunday night
Ok so you do actually have a lil bit of the holy sticking out on the manifold right? If so I found another method you can use. Ant that is if ya have access to a torch then use it or find someone that does and use there's. What you'll do is take the whole manifold off, then use a torch to heat up the bolt, and add a lil wax to it, the wax acts as a lubercint to loosen up the bolt. When you do this then take a hammer and tap it a couple time, then take a pair of pliars, those big one you know like the channel locks and twist the bolt out... Reaped the process till there out. You can actually go to lowes or wherever and get a propane torch, and that would work as a torch...

---------- Post added at 10:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:07 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc x 4

Get the aero kroil first and u won't. I order it on line at Kano labratories.
So is there anywhere else you can get that stuff, besides off line?
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:58 AM   #10
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Orileys auto parts used to have it. I think they quit carrying it bc its $12 a can. I'll pay that any day. One can works better than a truck load of pb blaster..PB= pure bull *****. I've heated a manifold cherry red (i wouldn't recommend) an the bolt still wouldn't come out. Shot of kroil an 10 min wait, came rite out. Could've save 2days of head ache had I known of it b 4
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc x 4
Orileys auto parts used to have it. I think they quit carrying it bc its $12 a can. I'll pay that any day. One can works better than a truck load of pb blaster..PB= pure bull *****. I've heated a manifold cherry red (i wouldn't recommend) an the bolt still wouldn't come out. Shot of kroil an 10 min wait, came rite out. Could've save 2days of head ache had I known of it b 4
So should I get new bolts for everything, when I go to put on my new x pipe?
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew r Wright

So should I get new bolts for everything, when I go to put on my new x pipe?
Depends on ther condition. I would,bolts are cheap. Buy them at a tractor supply.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc x 4
Orileys auto parts used to have it. I think they quit carrying it bc its $12 a can. I'll pay that any day. One can works better than a truck load of pb blaster..PB= pure bull *****. I've heated a manifold cherry red (i wouldn't recommend) an the bolt still wouldn't come out. Shot of kroil an 10 min wait, came rite out. Could've save 2days of head ache had I known of it b 4
+2 on the aero kroil. nothing compares to this stuff
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Old 04-28-2012, 03:26 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by tc x 4

Depends on ther condition. I would,bolts are cheap. Buy them at a tractor supply.
Tractor supply I never woulda thought...
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:40 PM   #15
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Re: Snapped exhaust manifold bolt...

Autozone has decent grade 8 bolts. Important thing is grade. Don't get less than 8. Lowes has them too. If I remember correctly you want M10 x20 or 25mm. Just bring one with you when you shop. Lowes also has the EZ out drill bit. Do what the others said and drill a pilot hole then use tw EZ out bit or equiv and then carefully turn that bastard out. Sucks but it happens
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:56 PM   #16
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Re: Snapped exhaust manifold bolt...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcvicar04 View Post
So I was working on cantlin01's stang Doing a bbk X pipe and snapped a bolt on the drivers side exhaust manifold is there anything we can do or are we screwed....
Ok, got it with all the techniques. I have never had this experience, but if I did here is what I would do because I am a DIY. The following attack to the problem to assist a fellow mustang bro follows (don't bother pushing agendas). Here goes:

1. Is the bolt stock? If not consider it to be of weaker quality. That means its soft. If Stock, its hardened.
2. I firmly doubt the bolt broke off with a shoulder exposed because of physics. It should have broken off flush with the engine block. Lets use that instance.
3. This is a situation requires patience and time, absolutely, time, patience, and perfection.
4. Here is a time expansion goodie. If you are using the stock manifold gaskets (multi layered metal gaskets) then you have not worries. If they are sound, just replace them and bolt the dang exhaust manifold back on. They won't leak. Period, they wont leak. Use a sequential bolting pattern which means don't crank one on fully tightenen before a full flush on all bolts. Get it. Have faith in the principle and good Ford tech.

Removing the offending stud ( because its no longer a bolt):
1. When you get into the attack mode get you a good strong drill and a drill bit set, or hardened (diamond tipped for metal) bits (now you go to Lowes or Home Depot).
2. Use progressively larger bits to remove the OFFENDING stud. The hardest part has to be finding and keeping dead center of the stud. If you do damage the threads, that's where tapping and larger bore will come in, but I don't see it happening if you have some patience and TLC. It's your Stang after all.
3. Ever seen or owned a automotive pick set? One may come in handy now.
4. If you cannot remove all the threads by picking them out (hole too small), reboring to a larger size is necessary (bottom out) depending on which stud broke. If its in the middle area, no sweat, I would run without it all day. I actually do. I installed a BBK Shorty and could not install one bolt on the driver side, so I use 7 instead of 8. No leaks, but of course I have the OEM gaskets and followed a planned torfque sequence. OEM gaskets are not cheap.
5. I think you got the concept now, so the rest is up to you. Yeah, basically, if you must have the pony for school monday, by all means bolt the thing on and have a ball. If you want to get it right then make time and patience because I bet it will be a bugger.

I would wish you the best but with Fords, the "good luck" bit is not always necessary because it built into the engine. Keep me posted.

P.S. I did not provide as much details cuz I think you got the hint. Also, advice from fellow Stang owners should not be ignored. Certainly they speak from experience.

Ok, I just wrote another paper. Score please.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:19 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Ok, got it with all the techniques. I have never had this experience, but if I did here is what I would do because I am a DIY. The following attack to the problem to assist a fellow mustang bro follows (don't bother pushing agendas). Here goes:

1. Is the bolt stock? If not consider it to be of weaker quality. That means its soft. If Stock, its hardened.
2. I firmly doubt the bolt broke off with a shoulder exposed because of physics. It should have broken off flush with the engine block. Lets use that instance.
3. This is a situation requires patience and time, absolutely, time, patience, and perfection.
4. Here is a time expansion goodie. If you are using the stock manifold gaskets (multi layered metal gaskets) then you have not worries. If they are sound, just replace them and bolt the dang exhaust manifold back on. They won't leak. Period, they wont leak. Use a sequential bolting pattern which means don't crank one on fully tightenen before a full flush on all bolts. Get it. Have faith in the principle and good Ford tech.

Removing the offending stud ( because its no longer a bolt):
1. When you get into the attack mode get you a good strong drill and a drill bit set, or hardened (diamond tipped for metal) bits (now you go to Lowes or Home Depot).
2. Use progressively larger bits to remove the OFFENDING stud. The hardest part has to be finding and keeping dead center of the stud. If you do damage the threads, that's where tapping and larger bore will come in, but I don't see it happening if you have some patience and TLC. It's your Stang after all.
3. Ever seen or owned a automotive pick set? One may come in handy now.
4. If you cannot remove all the threads by picking them out (hole too small), reboring to a larger size is necessary (bottom out) depending on which stud broke. If its in the middle area, no sweat, I would run without it all day. I actually do. I installed a BBK Shorty and could not install one bolt on the driver side, so I use 7 instead of 8. No leaks, but of course I have the OEM gaskets and followed a planned torfque sequence. OEM gaskets are not cheap.
5. I think you got the concept now, so the rest is up to you. Yeah, basically, if you must have the pony for school monday, by all means bolt the thing on and have a ball. If you want to get it right then make time and patience because I bet it will be a bugger.

I would wish you the best but with Fords, the "good luck" bit is not always necessary because it built into the engine. Keep me posted.

P.S. I did not provide as much details cuz I think you got the hint. Also, advice from fellow Stang owners should not be ignored. Certainly they speak from experience.

Ok, I just wrote another paper. Score please.
Did you learn that from a book or what ?

---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

Grade c....c-
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:20 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by tc x 4

Did you learn that from a book or what ?

---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

Grade c....c-
it was motivational

i would just soak it in aero kroil. then use some left handed drill bits.
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:33 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc x 4

Did you learn that from a book or what ?

---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

Grade c....c-
I grade it an a plus...

---------- Post added at 12:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:26 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew r Wright

I grade it an a plus...
Oh ya and dreamstang! I love ur mustang she's a real beaut....
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:20 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Mathew r Wright

I grade it an a plus...

---------- Post added at 12:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:26 AM ----------



Oh ya and dreamstang! I love ur mustang she's a real beaut....
Thank you.
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:30 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew r Wright

I grade it an a plus...

---------- Post added at 12:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:26 AM ----------



Oh ya and dreamstang! I love ur mustang she's a real beaut....
You are confused as him then.

---------- Post added at 11:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:26 AM ----------

I was being generous with the c for effort. Not knowledge

---------- Post added at 11:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:29 AM ----------

The real world is much different
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:40 PM   #22
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You are confused as him then.

---------- Post added at 11:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:26 AM ----------

I was being generous with the c for effort. Not knowledge

---------- Post added at 11:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:29 AM ----------

The real world is much different
Well I gave him a for effort lol, I didn't really even read it... That was a lot he wrote that's why he got an a ha ha...
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:50 PM   #23
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Happened to me!!

Drill a pilot hole, spray penetrating lubricant, reverse it out!
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:52 PM   #24
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Happened to me!!

Drill a pilot hole, spray penetrating lubricant, reverse it out!
and dont forget the socks to plug the ports. lol
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:52 PM   #25
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and dont forget the socks to plug the ports. lol
Exactly
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:47 PM   #26
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and dont forget the socks to plug the ports. lol
Ya I for got common sense, is not all that common. But it is an exaust,so it will blow anything out.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:44 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc x 4

Did you learn that from a book or what ?

---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

Grade c....c-
No, common sense, and attention to detail, paying attention. Good luck.

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

No, common sense, and attention to detail, paying attention. Good luck.
Any good ford mech will tell you that stock gaskets are the way to go. Ck my earlier post.

---------- Post added at 07:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc x 4

Did you learn that from a book or what ?

---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

Grade c....c-
Thank you, at least is not an F.

---------- Post added at 07:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:40 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang

it was motivational

i would just soak it in aero kroil. then use some left handed drill bits.
You could still damage the threads.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:50 PM   #28
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yes you could. i just like to keep it simple.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

No, common sense, and attention to detail, paying attention. Good luck.

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------



Any good ford mech will tell you that stock gaskets are the way to go. Ck my earlier post.

---------- Post added at 07:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 PM ----------



Thank you, at least is not an F.

---------- Post added at 07:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:40 PM ----------



You could still damage the threads.
As u said, u have no experience
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
yes you could. i just like to keep it simple.
Precisely. Anyway, its not my Stang, but the owner has a vested interest as a DIY.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:55 PM   #31
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Wax? Pleeeez
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:30 PM   #32
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Wax? Pleeeez
Not ur dough being spent. He can tap it now or ltr. Keep ur wax.
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:37 PM   #33
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Not ur dough being spent. He can tap it now or ltr. Keep ur wax.
U said use wax LOL
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:53 PM   #34
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U said use wax LOL
I said use wax?
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:47 PM   #35
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Quote:
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I said use wax?
Sorry las97 did, whom u were agreeing with. The OP can take my advise or not,I don't care. I've been in skilled trades for longer than most on this fourm have been alive. Find someone else to play with, I'm taking my toys an going home.
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