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Old 05-03-2012, 10:56 PM   #71
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

a full motor isn't necessary. You just need a longblock. 05-06 2v's are best from f150's. They have more threads on the spark plug holes, meaning way less chance of plug blowout.

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Thanks for the advice. I'm already set on giving my patronage to Nick from Modularheadshop.com if I need to purchase heads.
I live here in Orlando and talked to him, in which he referred me to a guy he gets heads from who got me a 05 p.i longblock with 50k miles. I paid $600[ with a taer down for visual inspection before purchase]. All you need to do at that point is use your timing cover and oil pan. It will bolt right up to your 3650 or auto. i've heard of some mustang shops in LA. You shouldn't have a problem finding a longblock for cheap.

as you can see witht he parts int he background is all i changed from what i received.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:26 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyGT
a full motor isn't necessary. You just need a longblock. 05-06 2v's are best from f150's. They have more threads on the spark plug holes, meaning way less chance of plug blowout.

I live here in Orlando and talked to him, in which he referred me to a guy he gets heads from who got me a 05 p.i longblock with 50k miles. I paid $600[ with a taer down for visual inspection before purchase]. All you need to do at that point is use your timing cover and oil pan. It will bolt right up to your 3650 or auto. i've heard of some mustang shops in LA. You shouldn't have a problem finding a longblock for cheap.

as you can see witht he parts int he background is all i changed from what i received.
Probably a silly question.. But what's the difference between a shortblock and a long block?
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:00 AM   #73
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Short is block and internals
Long is block internals complete heads and some times intake
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:00 AM   #74
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Long block has heads and stuff, and short is just the block and rotating assemble
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:39 AM   #75
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

this is a great option....

4.6 4 cam engine/transmission/wiring/computer FITS MUSTANG OR LINCOLN
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:41 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002VertGT
I just called in that Cobra engine. Apparently it has 85k miles and he wants $800 for engine, wiring harness, computer, and auto tranny.

The 4.6 cobra engine(the late 90s model) has forged internals and crank right? They can handle a good bit of power, right? Also; Will my 4.6 GT's wiring harness work with this so I don't have to rewire? If so I can sell off the wiring harness and computer.

Also he said the reason he pulled was due to front end impact but said there was no damage to the engine.


I really really wish I could go look at it but it's so far away in Indiana.
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:59 PM   #77
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Ok looking at that engine I can tell you this. That is a 93-96 Mark VIII motor and not a cobra. And it will not be a drop in deal. That make intake will not work in the mustang. The enternals are non forged. And heads are pre cobra production( they non beehive springs) If you where considering this with a newer (97-98) engine its a bit easier. But still no forged parts.

Being that you have a new edge another problem will be a fuel system. We have returnless fuel systems the make did not. So you would need to fab a rail to work. All in all if your 21 and low on cash then this isn't what you want to do. Do you have pics of ur engine? You could pull an engine from a yard. If you get a cheap one id go with that. And then look into fixing the old one. Here's a few photos of mine.



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Old 05-04-2012, 03:06 PM   #78
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I also forgot that the ignition setup is different as well. 99-04 has cop and not plug wire setup. A 97-98 mark motor would be a good start. But in ur case stay with a 2v budget. now you could get the Mark shortblock and repair ur heads for a lightweight high compression engine.
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:46 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad
I also forgot that the ignition setup is different as well. 99-04 has cop and not plug wire setup. A 97-98 mark motor would be a good start. But in ur case stay with a 2v budget. now you could get the Mark shortblock and repair ur heads for a lightweight high compression engine.
This.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:56 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by AgentOrange

This.
?
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:02 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by 32vNomad

?
Umm... +1?
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:16 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentOrange

Umm... +1?
This.
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:20 AM   #83
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So if I pick up the shortblock Mark type then I could use my heads and the. My fuel would work with it and everything else? What power output would that be then?
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:12 AM   #84
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Horsepower will be determined by the combination of components used. You will be looking at roughly 11.5:1 cr so you will see a mid range increase. The 80lbs from the front you'll loose will give you better control and quicker accel times. But be warned the Mark block does not contain forged internals. So being mixed with high cr. Low boost if any is recommended. I would look to a new timing set from ford racing, and maybe a cam upgrade.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:50 AM   #85
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If you plan on running boost I would not go that route, the CR ratio is to high for boosted applications even in little doses. IMO you are better off rebuild the shortblock you have, the 4V is nice but there are a ton of 2V making just as much hp and more
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:43 PM   #86
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Just found a newly worked 4.6 281 long block. The new rotating assembly he had put in doesn't have enough rod gap so he'll sell me the original crank and pistons along with the new block and heads and new rotating assembly for a total of $400. Sound good?
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:46 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson
Just found a newly worked 4.6 281 long block. The new rotating assembly he had put in doesn't have enough rod gap so he'll sell me the original crank and pistons along with the new block and heads and new rotating assembly for a total of $400. Sound good?
He doesn't want it for a reason.
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:51 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by AgentOrange

He doesn't want it for a reason.
The new assembly is stock Rods and crank. he recently got it back from the machine shop and doesn't want it anymore. Everything looks good for the cylinder walls and block.. Does it not sound good?
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:55 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson

The new assembly is stock Rods and crank. he recently got it back from the machine shop and doesn't want it anymore. Everything looks good for the cylinder walls and block.. Does it not sound good?
If everything is straight then yeah, 400 bucks is good. I'm just skeptical of anything like that. Too many turds out there.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:44 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rm360
If you plan on running boost I would not go that route, the CR ratio is to high for boosted applications even in little doses. IMO you are better off rebuild the shortblock you have, the 4V is nice but there are a ton of 2V making just as much hp and more
Getting the shortblock from the mark would be the best. He can rebuild it and take advantage the weight savings. As for CR explain the Mach and current 5.0. Even without completly forged bottoms he would still be able with a good tune take small amounts of boost.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:50 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad

Getting the shortblock from the mark would be the best. He can rebuild it and take advantage the weight savings. As for CR explain the Mach and current 5.0. Even without completly forged bottoms he would still be able with a good tune take small amounts of boost.
Yup, many people are throwing blowers on stock 5.0's with an 11.0:1 cr
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:03 PM   #92
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Its in the tune and the respect of the driver. Plus the teskid block isn't an entry level block. Its a capable work of art.
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:05 PM   #93
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Ya that's good price
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:16 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson
Just found a newly worked 4.6 281 long block. The new rotating assembly he had put in doesn't have enough rod gap so he'll sell me the original crank and pistons along with the new block and heads and new rotating assembly for a total of $400. Sound good?
I would have a machine shop look it over b 4 I paid. That's cheap as hell. U know the saying,if it sounds too good to b true, it probably is.
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:20 PM   #95
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

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screenshot ftw
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:00 AM   #96
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I'm thinking of buying that block I previously spoke of. Seems like a good deal and it'll be disassembled when I get there so it'll be an easy check.
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:18 AM   #97
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I'd offer him 300$ if your gonna put forged internals in it but even at $400 it's a good buy
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:49 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson
I'm thinking of buying that block I previously spoke of. Seems like a good deal and it'll be disassembled when I get there so it'll be an easy check.
Take the block to the machine shop. But let me ask you why are you so against getting the mark setup? At least go with the small block. I mean your rebuilding anyway so get the aluminum block. Not only that if you get a mark block they come with a high volume oil pump as well.

Don't let these guys that don't have persuade you.. look all I'm saying is find a mark motor on the cheap. tear it down and sell the heads. Take it to a machine shop and have them work it. Start with that platform. There are more pros than cons with that block.
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:28 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by 32vNomad

Take the block to the machine shop. But let me ask you why are you so against getting the mark setup? At least go with the small block. I mean your rebuilding anyway so get the aluminum block. Not only that if you get a mark block they come with a high volume oil pump as well.

Don't let these guys that don't have persuade you.. look all I'm saying is find a mark motor on the cheap. tear it down and sell the heads. Take it to a machine shop and have them work it. Start with that platform. There are more pros than cons with that block.
I know I'm kinda late on this, but I have found used 4.6's on eBay for 1650$ not counting freight. I thought that wasn't to bad for wanting to go with just a replacement...
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:53 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by Mathew r Wright

I know I'm kinda late on this, but I have found used 4.6's on eBay for 1650$ not counting freight. I thought that wasn't to bad for wanting to go with just a replacement...
Eh.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:01 PM   #101
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Eh.
Yah I know eh. But hay I found with low miles and that would get you by till the motor you pulled got built idnk just an idea... It's expensive any way ya think about huh...
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:03 PM   #102
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Yah I know eh. But hay I found with low miles and that would get you by till the motor you pulled got built idnk just an idea... It's expensive any way ya think about huh...
If you're going to spend that much on a used motor, just try to find a wrecked car with a good motor. Then you at least get whatever else is good on it.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:14 PM   #103
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Yeah like I just had to put a new motor in my car after every thing was all said and done it cost me 5000$ for a stock brand new 4.6. If your car is 1999 or 2000 only those 4.6l motors work
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:31 PM   #104
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Yeah like I just had to put a new motor in my car after every thing was all said and done it cost me 5000$ for a stock brand new 4.6. If your car is 1999 or 2000 only those 4.6l motors work
Only 99' and 00' ??? What? What do ya mean?
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:33 PM   #105
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I forget what they switched in them but they will not mount up to other years it's something with a eight bolt pattern and they switched it to a 6 bolt pattern in 2001
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