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Old 06-22-2012, 09:22 AM   #176
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As far as 2v heads go there are no difference in performance. But romeo heads are really the mustang head. The windsor was only used in 01's to help with production. If your going with an aluminum block id got with romeos

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Old 06-22-2012, 10:49 AM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad
As far as 2v heads go there are no difference in performance. But romeo heads are really the mustang head. The windsor was only used in 01's to help with production. If your going with an aluminum block id got with romeos
What about trick flow for 2v heads?

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Old 06-22-2012, 11:22 AM   #178
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Those heads are great but expensive. They work so well because the intake valve is re located to be much less shrouded
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:43 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newline
Those heads are great but expensive. They work so well because the intake valve is re located to be much less shrouded
Gotcha what are good heads for a good price? I want more power because I'm rebuilding my 2v
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:49 PM   #180
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TEA has some good stuff and so does patriot if you go with their higher end products
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:07 PM   #181
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I agree if your going to stay with a 2v then id look into tea also think intake as well P51 expensive but nice. There are others. Also a decent cam you don't need anything wild
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:11 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad
I agree if your going to stay with a 2v then id look into tea also think intake as well P51 expensive but nice. There are others. Also a decent cam you don't need anything wild
Can you put DOHC heads on a typical 2v engine block? Is that a totally different block?
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:03 PM   #183
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You sure can. But you would loose a lot of compression because the 4v head has a combustion chamber of 52cc where as the 2v has 42cc (if memory serves me). Now if you where to make a high boost machine (after you change internals of course) then the 4v heads would work. But there is a lot involved in 4v heads then just slapping them on. Let me get you a break down of parts. From what I have serched and found.

Tumble port heads - I got mine from LKQ for 115 w/o cams from a 00 continental.
Timing set- fms 450.00 comes with everything even new fasteners
4v oil pump - 80.00 for a good one.
Source a heater pipe from a Mach 1 0.00?
Intake 560.00 complete on ebay (tb, injectors, sensors,etc)
Basically the list gets bigger. If 4v is in your future then look for a complete motor. Because as I said the bill gets high.
Now myself I went the Mark route. Forged the internals and built it from the ground up.


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Old 06-22-2012, 04:26 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad
You sure can. But you would loose a lot of compression because the 4v head has a combustion chamber of 52cc where as the 2v has 42cc (if memory serves me). Now if you where to make a high boost machine (after you change internals of course) then the 4v heads would work. But there is a lot involved in 4v heads then just slapping them on. Let me get you a break down of parts. From what I have serched and found.

Tumble port heads - I got mine from LKQ for 115 w/o cams from a 00 continental.
Timing set- fms 450.00 comes with everything even new fasteners
4v oil pump - 80.00 for a good one.
Source a heater pipe from a Mach 1 0.00?
Intake 560.00 complete on ebay (tb, injectors, sensors,etc)
Basically the list gets bigger. If 4v is in your future then look for a complete motor. Because as I said the bill gets high.
Now myself I went the Mark route. Forged the internals and built it from the ground up.
So when you go forged internals as well as having to bore some for the new pistons, will he be able to keep the compression around stock? I can't remember if he was upgrading the cams or not.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:21 PM   #185
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

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Originally Posted by Azure View Post
So when you go forged internals as well as having to bore some for the new pistons, will he be able to keep the compression around stock? I can't remember if he was upgrading the cams or not.
I do plan on forging internals as well as correcting bore to match the new forged pistons. I believe the 4cc dish will retain the stock compression ratio.

I do plan on upgrading to stage 2 comp cams along with spring upgrades. Will this throw anything off?
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:11 AM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson

I do plan on forging internals as well as correcting bore to match the new forged pistons. I believe the 4cc dish will retain the stock compression ratio.

I do plan on upgrading to stage 2 comp cams along with spring upgrades. Will this throw anything off?
Just make sure you do the math for the compression correctly. But no it shouldn't throw anything off
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:50 AM   #187
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I have a dumb question... With the price of everything your doing to the 2v block why didn't you source a teskid block? Seems to be fairly easy to find. Plus if you are forging the internals you could benefit from the teskid's ability to hold high hp numbers. And you could keep the 2v heads if you so wished. Just a thought to think about if you decided to do major boost to it.
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:37 PM   #188
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

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Originally Posted by 95v686gt View Post
I have a dumb question... With the price of everything your doing to the 2v block why didn't you source a teskid block? Seems to be fairly easy to find. Plus if you are forging the internals you could benefit from the teskid's ability to hold high hp numbers. And you could keep the 2v heads if you so wished. Just a thought to think about if you decided to do major boost to it.
To be honest I think Cole should look for a cheap 97-98 Mark Motor if he is wanting 4v tech. The block weights 85lbs you can't beat that. This is what I would do. Find a cheap mark motor or a short block at least. Get a rolling assemble kit from ModMax. Tear down the mark motor( or cobra) down to the block, have a good machine shop match the pistons, check the block over for square, (possibly) have them assemble the lower end. Bring it home and start the assemble. But that would be me. there are plenty of options out there to do, it just depends on Cole. He has the way to get ahold of me. Just let me know the budget and I can get a package list together.
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:03 PM   #189
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That's why I asked. I'm doing the same swap you are but into a 97 GT
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:51 PM   #190
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

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Originally Posted by 95v686gt View Post
That's why I asked. I'm doing the same swap you are but into a 97 GT


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Old 06-23-2012, 01:57 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad

[/URL][/IMG]
Did you use the mark 8 oil pan? I've heard it won't work
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:10 PM   #192
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No I bought a cobra pan new from FMS. The only thing I wish I did was have it powder coat. Fyi have that done if you have a new pan.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:24 PM   #193
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I cant tell you how helpful this thread is. I may go try to find a mark viii now for cheap and pull the block out if it
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:30 PM   #194
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I got the pre 97 block and the intake won't work so now I'm dead in the water til I find a intake for it
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:50 PM   #195
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

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Originally Posted by 95v686gt View Post
I got the pre 97 block and the intake won't work so now I'm dead in the water til I find a intake for it
So your saying that you have B heads? If so I just saw a thread in another forum that has a Mark Intake for 35.00


For Sale a lot of 4 valve parts, some 2 valve parts and oil pans for sale - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:00 PM   #196
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I always thought if I ever did a mod motor swap in a 96+ GT, I think a DOHC 5.4L from a navigator would be sweet.. FastLane built one with a turbo that was stupid fast(was a purpose built drag car).
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:15 AM   #197
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I don't plan on going into high power. And honestly I'm a bit scared and intimidated on switching to a different block because I don't know what will fit I what. :/ it's overwhelming.
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Old 06-24-2012, 03:50 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson
I don't plan on going into high power. And honestly I'm a bit scared and intimidated on switching to a different block because I don't know what will fit I what. :/ it's overwhelming.
A donor car is good in a situation like this where the right parts are not always clear.
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:01 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson
I don't plan on going into high power. And honestly I'm a bit scared and intimidated on switching to a different block because I don't know what will fit I what. :/ it's overwhelming.
A 4.6L is a 4.6L it fits. Everything it the same, and is a drop in.

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From take out to install. The headers pictured were removed as the are ment to be installed from under.

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Old 06-24-2012, 12:12 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad

A 4.6L is a 4.6L it fits. Everything it the same, and is a drop in.

From take out to install. The headers pictured were removed as the are ment to be installed from under.
So other than being an aluminum block, the block size itself and mounts are the same on a GT as on a Mach1? I assume the Mark engine is cast iron rather than aluminum, right?
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:34 PM   #201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

So other than being an aluminum block, the block size itself and mounts are the same on a GT as on a Mach1? I assume the Mark engine is cast iron rather than aluminum, right?
No the Mark block is a teskid block 93-98 cobra is teskid 96-99 and 01 is WAP. The Mach1 one is a NVH which its based on the WAP. These are the aluminum blocks
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:15 PM   #202
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Thanks Nomad! Learning stuff

Cole, not trying to steal your thread. Trying to understand the options at hand.
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:22 PM   #203
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The teskid block is the more desirable one, correct? Ive always heard it was more durable
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:36 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure
Thanks Nomad! Learning stuff

Cole, not trying to steal your thread. Trying to understand the options at hand.
Keep asking. I'm learning with you. And I'm still at the planning stage so changing blocks wouldn't change much.
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Old 06-24-2012, 03:37 PM   #205
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

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The teskid block is the more desirable one, correct? Ive always heard it was more durable
The teskid block is a sought after block because of the hp capacity it weighs approximately 85lbs the WAP block weighs about 83lbs the webbing was beefed up but the overall block is weaker. Still hp capacity is still in the 700+ range. But the best about the aluminum blocks is that you can have them re-sleeved in case of damaged and or the bore diameter increased.
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Old 06-24-2012, 03:39 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad

The teskid block is a sought after block because of the hp capacity it weighs approximately 85lbs the WAP block weighs about 83lbs the webbing was beefed up but the overall block is weaker. Still hp capacity is still in the 700+ range. But the best about the aluminum blocks is that you can have them re-sleeved in case of damaged and or the bore diameter increased.
Does sleeping the alum block allow for more HP capability? Maybe you can sleeve it knowing you are gonna go w/ higher than 10lb boost?
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Old 06-24-2012, 04:21 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32vNomad

The teskid block is a sought after block because of the hp capacity it weighs approximately 85lbs the WAP block weighs about 83lbs the webbing was beefed up but the overall block is weaker. Still hp capacity is still in the 700+ range. But the best about the aluminum blocks is that you can have them re-sleeved in case of damaged and or the bore diameter increased.
And of im looking for said block, what cars have them?
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:11 PM   #208
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Re: Aurora's heart died.

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Originally Posted by 32vNomad View Post
No the Mark block is a teksid block 93-98 cobra is teksid 96-99 and 01 is WAP. The Mach1 one is a NVH which its based on the WAP. These are the aluminum blocks
Easiest was to get a teksid is find a Mark engine. You can however find the blocks on Craigslist or Ebay. But there prices vary because people always list them as Cobra parts. Thinks to remember when looking for teksid engines is that the Mark VIII came with them but the 97-98 used the same beehive springs as the cobras where as the others did not. Also the IMRC's are composite and not aluminum, which are the better ones. But if its the block you want get it and sell the upper end. there are always looking for the cheaper mark intakes and such for swaps.

Quote:
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And of im looking for said block, what cars have them?


---------- Post added at 06:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure View Post
Does sleeping the alum block allow for more HP capability? Maybe you can sleeve it knowing you are gonna go w/ higher than 10lb boost?
You would only sleeve a block to repair it not to upgrade horsepower. The teksid block has a 1500+hp rating so 10lbs isn't an issue. Just to clarify that the reason the "Terminator" came with Cast Iron "Romeo" blocks is for two reasons. For longevity (they had issues with front main bearings for the supercharger.), and cost ((bearing issue could have been fixed with tougher bearings instead of the OEM aluminum bearing) but also cast iron is tons cheaper). Thats also the reason that in 01 Ford switched to its own in-house casting for their aluminum blocks. When they build cars Profit is number one, for example ford trucks come with aluminum driveshafts for the most, and yet the Mustang GT did not. Its cost and profitability.
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:33 PM   #209
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Any mileage range i should look for? If my grandpa sells his i may buy it and use it for parts. Has 183k on it
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:26 PM   #210
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I feel that I'm pretty sold on the teskid idea if everything swaps over completely!!

And we made progress! Taken all the waves out of the body as well as fixing the damage it had. The front was messed up. It had so many rock chips!! Also fixed the rear bumper damage but no pics of that. :3
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