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Old 05-28-2012, 10:38 PM   #36
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Well you can buy a built rear end or you can buy the parts individually. New axles, differential, c clip eliminators, there's a few things you need to buy but it's cheaper that way cause you don't buy new axle tubes and differential case and what not. You can build a rear end for about 700 and have a pretty strong rear end
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:45 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t0t4lbl4ck0ut
Well you can buy a built rear end or you can buy the parts individually. New axles, differential, c clip eliminators, there's a few things you need to buy but it's cheaper that way cause you don't buy new axle tubes and differential case and what not. You can build a rear end for about 700 and have a pretty strong rear end
Aw oh ok thanks for the info
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:16 PM   #38
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Re: The ultimate 2v engine!

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Originally Posted by Azure View Post
No, I think would great and look good! I was saying that if your building an engine to produce HP like FORDGT14 is doing, prolly gonna need to build up the rear diff. Really, might need to build up the tranny too.
Yeah the tranny is deffinately next on the list. I kinda wana go to a 6 speed. Any ideas?
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:32 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by FORDGT14

Yeah the tranny is deffinately next on the list. I kinda wana go to a 6 speed. Any ideas?
Not sure, seems like so many sell auto trannys. They aren't as much fun Maybe looking for good solid info for building up our TR-3650's might be the cheapest way to go.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:46 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Azure

Not sure, seems like so many sell auto trannys. They aren't as much fun Maybe looking for good solid info for building up our TR-3650's might be the cheapest way to go.
+1
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:53 AM   #41
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You can get a rebuild upgrade kit for roughly 500-700 depending on the company you buy from and it should make them pretty strong. I've heard good things about their strength stock alone. Their only fault is the bad synchros.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:03 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by t0t4lbl4ck0ut
You can get a rebuild upgrade kit for roughly 500-700 depending on the company you buy from and it should make them pretty strong. I've heard good things about their strength stock alone. Their only fault is the bad synchros.
Also heard to stick with Mercon V or Mobile 1 ATF for fluids. Noticed a difference when I switched to Mobile 1 over Royal Purple. Had synchro probs with 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 until I changed.
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:59 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Also heard to stick with Mercon V or Mobile 1 ATF for fluids. Noticed a difference when I switched to Mobile 1 over Royal Purple. Had synchro probs with 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 until I changed.
+1, Pennzoil makes a great GM sychromesh fluid as well.
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:06 PM   #44
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Re: The ultimate 2v engine!

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Your gonna want bigger injectors than that to get in that power level
Not true. My buddy just supercharged his 2011 5.0 and uses 49lb injectors, 2.3l whipple running 9lbs boost on a stock bottom end making 595rwhp on the initial dyno tune... You don't need 60lb injectors to make 500-600rwhp. 40-49lbs is just about right, that's why the kit comes with 40lb injectors.
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:08 PM   #45
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That is a completely different motor with a completely different fuel system. On a 2V gt he will need 60# injectors
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:19 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by CodyNelson
That is a completely different motor with a completely different fuel system. On a 2V gt he will need 60# injectors
What he said^^^^^^
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:41 AM   #47
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Re: The ultimate 2v engine!

How is it different? Your 2v fuel system and delievery has NO effect (besides psi) on how much the fuel injectors can handle for power.

They are both returnless.
They both use a Delta psi of 39.5

42lb injectors can get you into the 450-500+rwhp range...
SO why cant almost 50s get you 550-600?

You guys do know that you can effectively 'up' the size of your injector by upping the fuel pressure right?

So a 49lb injector is rated at 39.5psi...add 9psi of boost and that 49lb injector is a 55lb/hr injector. and if the tuner turned up the base pressure to 45psi...then those 49s are now almost the size of a 60lb/hr.

When you add psi, it make the injector bigger than what it actually is.
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Old 06-16-2012, 07:50 AM   #48
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It is different and it does make a difference. That's why a 2V GT with a returnless style fuel setup needs 60# injectors to hit in the 500s and a 4V cobra with return style only needs 49#. And that's the same for the new 5.0. It's a 4v with a return style fuel setup.
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:31 AM   #49
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Re: The ultimate 2v engine!

^ You do realize that all 99-up mustangs use a RETURNLESS system from the factory. Correct? So 2v or 4v or 3v...they all use a returnless fuel system. The last return fuel system was on the 98s, and it was a cross breed type system. Used a returnless tank/pump and return rails/lines.

So once again. YOur math and conclusion is wrong. Simply based on the fact that you have no idea what cars came with what fuel system.

Depending on what your BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) rate is...ie super, turbo, NA, is what will determine how much power you can get out of a fuel system/injectors. Not the TYPE of fuel system you have. All injectors care about is rail pressure and pulsewidth command from the ECU to determine what HP they can handle. LIke I said...a 42lb injector running in a boosted application can act like 60s in a boosted setup due to boost reference on the FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor). It will up the base delta pressure 1 psi for every lb of boost it sees. This is why you can get away with make more power on a lower injector number...increase pressure, and you increase the flow of the injectors. THis is why injectors come with a flow rating at a certain psi...you change that delta psi, and the flow rate changes...the injectors do not care HOW they get the pressure, just that they get it. Returnless or not...

---------- Post added at 11:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 PM ----------

BTW. I had a F1 Procharged 2v...making 536rwhp...twin cobra hats drop in, KB BAP and 60s...switched to 32v, P1 and D1...same fuel system. Guess what. Injector and Fuel pump duty cycle was almost identical.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:57 AM   #50
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Your correct, I made a mistake. But there is zero reason for you to be a prick. Twice in 24 hours and less than 20 posts you have managed to be a complete D!CK for no reason. Fyi it is possible to make your point and correct errors respectfully. We're all here to learn and make ourselves more knowledgeable about our cars. I made a mistake. My bad. Welcome to the site @sshole!!
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:58 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by CodyNelson
Your correct, I made a mistake. But there is zero reason for you to be a prick. Twice in 24 hours and less than 20 posts you have managed to be a complete D!CK for no reason. Fyi it is possible to make your point and correct errors respectfully. We're all here to learn and make ourselves more knowledgeable about our cars. I made a mistake. My bad. Welcome to the site @sshole!!
Lmao, well said Cody
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:04 AM   #52
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Lmao, well said Cody
+1,000,000,000
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:14 AM   #53
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Re: The ultimate 2v engine!

I fail to see where I was being an *******...

I did no name calling.
I used no foul language. I stated facts, proof and backed it up. If by proving someone wrong that makes me an *******...then so be it. lol.

I guess being right hurts too many feelings. I guess being an ******* and providing good info is frowned upon on forums cause ppl get too butt hurt.

Also...what does only have 20 posts matter? So I have to have 20,000 posts to have knowledge?
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:21 AM   #54
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Just let it slide. I push buttons on here sometimes just to get a rise or a good debate and I think some people have high blood pressure or something. Text isn't always the best form of communication because there's no tone.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:23 AM   #55
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Re: The ultimate 2v engine!

BOttom line...you were wrong. There is no nicer way to put it...and it took 1 post from another member, then yours, then mine again, and then you finally realized I was right. I was simply proving my point and you took it as an attack on your person. Couldn't be further from what I was trying to do. I was trying to convey CORRECT info...thats all.

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 PM ----------

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Just let it slide. I push buttons on here sometimes just to get a rise or a good debate and I think some people have high blood pressure or something. Text isn't always the best form of communication because there's no tone.
Im cool with it...Happens a lot when you get proved wrong. No one likes to be proved wrong...I just have thick skin I guess...
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:25 AM   #56
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I try to take it well.. but its hard sometimes.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:41 AM   #57
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Re: The ultimate 2v engine!

^ im a pretty easy going guy. I take everything with a grain of salt.

I have seen lots and lots of misinformation over the years on modulars and cars in general...just trying to help with correct info.

---------- Post added at 11:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 PM ----------

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I try to take it well.. but its hard sometimes.
So what are you...the resident mediator...
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:28 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by NeverEnuff
^ im a pretty easy going guy. I take everything with a grain of salt.

I have seen lots and lots of misinformation over the years on modulars and cars in general...just trying to help with correct info.

---------- Post added at 11:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 PM ----------



So what are you...the resident mediator...
Ok well since you seem to really know what your talking about. How would you build this engine? Would you go with the trickflow topend and a forged bottome end? What would be my best route? Also, I wanna make as much N/A power as possible before I go s/c.
Thanks in advanced bud
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:48 AM   #59
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Re: The ultimate 2v engine!

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Ok well since you seem to really know what your talking about. How would you build this engine? Would you go with the trickflow topend and a forged bottome end? What would be my best route? Also, I wanna make as much N/A power as possible before I go s/c.
Thanks in advanced bud
Well like already said in this thread...you really can't make all the power you can NA, then boost it. You can make a decent amount of NA power, ready for boost...but if someone else built a motor FOR NA...then it will beat your power numbers till you boost it. Just the way it works. Kinda like TRYING to make a car awesome at drag racing, AND twisty, just isn't going to work. It will either be decent or ok at both, and wont be the best at either...or be good at one, or suck at the other...

Building an NA motor will req NA type cams, NA type compression...NA type intake depending on if you care more about TQ or top end power.

So what I suggest, is build it for the end goal. Find an end goal, whether that be NA boosted , Turbo, Super...whatever and go from there...

Now some things share between the two. Ie heads, some bottom end components etc etc.

Find a good set of H beam rods. And depending on your budget, TF heads would be optimal, but its all about how much money you want to spend in the end. If you have an unlimited bank account. TF is the way to go.

Past that...things like Main studs, head studs, head gaskets etc etc shoudl all be the same...

what do you want in the end...PA of NA...then you can decide on pistons, cam profiles...etc etc.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:13 PM   #60
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So what are you...the resident mediator...
More often the resident instigator, but I try to be civil most of the time.
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