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Old 05-20-2012, 08:17 PM   #1
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Exclamation Misfire Emergency!!! =0

Ok, my car has been sputtering for quite sometime, but recently the "service engine soon" light came on. So I took it to Autozone and had them put a computer on it and tell me what it was, it came back as a misfire in cylinder 1. It also gave me 3 things it could be, it said it was 1, a bad spark plug, 2, a bad coil pack, and 3, a bad injector. I replaced the spark plug first and it didn't fix it, so then I bought a new coil pack, still didn't fix it..So I finally spent the $70 on a new injector. So keep in mind that everything that it said could be wrong has been replaced now. After I got the new injector in, I fired it up and it's still doing the same damn thing. So I tried unplugging the injector to see if it changed the idle, and it doesn't, leading me to believe something could be wrong in the wiring somewhere? I've done everything the computer said could be wrong, and I'm still stuck with the same problem. A misfire in cylinder 1.

Please help! This is my Daily Driver!
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:35 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDGT14
Ok, my car has been sputtering for quite sometime, but recently the "service engine soon" light came on. So I took it to Autozone and had them put a computer on it and tell me what it was, it came back as a misfire in cylinder 1. It also gave me 3 things it could be, it said it was 1, a bad spark plug, 2, a bad coil pack, and 3, a bad injector. I replaced the spark plug first and it didn't fix it, so then I bought a new coil pack, still didn't fix it..So I finally spent the $70 on a new injector. So keep in mind that everything that it said could be wrong has been replaced now. After I got the new injector in, I fired it up and it's still doing the same damn thing. So I tried unplugging the injector to see if it changed the idle, and it doesn't, leading me to believe something could be wrong in the wiring somewhere? I've done everything the computer said could be wrong, and I'm still stuck with the same problem. A misfire in cylinder 1.

Please help! This is my Daily Driver!
Not being dick here... Did you make sure you were on the right cylinder? If you have a 4.6L, I went by this...

firewall
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
front

I had this just today and it turned out to be a bad connection at the harness or not having a boot connection on the plug.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:17 PM   #3
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Re: Misfire Emergency!!! =0

Yeah, I know which one is cylinder 1. And I've checked literally everything...Idk what else to do, but I'm out about $130 and I'm still at square 1..
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDGT14
Yeah, I know which one is cylinder 1. And I've checked literally everything...Idk what else to do, but I'm out about $130 and I'm still at square 1..
Can you see any damage to the COP harness or connector on #1 anywhere?
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDGT14
Yeah, I know which one is cylinder 1. And I've checked literally everything...Idk what else to do, but I'm out about $130 and I'm still at square 1..
Have you disconnected the battery? Like when you replaced the injector? I you didn't you should because not only is it safer when working on the vehicle but it also clears the computers DTC's by forcing a reboot due to loss of power. I had a similar problem not to long ago it had thrown the CEL and I had replaced everything but the light wouldn't turn off and it still was idling rough but after a disconnect of the batt I fired her up and problem solved. If I remember correctly, when ever the CEL is thrown the ecu has certain protocols that it runs in order to prevent damage to the motor. And it checks for repeated failure in cycles. After 2 fails it will throw the CEL and initiate the appropriate protocol. In your case a misfire in cylinder 1 the computer would identify the misfire and cut fuel and spark to the cylinder to prevent further damage. Sorry for writing a book. Lemme know if this works.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:53 PM   #6
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Re: Misfire Emergency!!! =0

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arron's racecar View Post
Have you disconnected the battery? Like when you replaced the injector? I you didn't you should because not only is it safer when working on the vehicle but it also clears the computers DTC's by forcing a reboot due to loss of power. I had a similar problem not to long ago it had thrown the CEL and I had replaced everything but the light wouldn't turn off and it still was idling rough but after a disconnect of the batt I fired her up and problem solved. If I remember correctly, when ever the CEL is thrown the ecu has certain protocols that it runs in order to prevent damage to the motor. And it checks for repeated failure in cycles. After 2 fails it will throw the CEL and initiate the appropriate protocol. In your case a misfire in cylinder 1 the computer would identify the misfire and cut fuel and spark to the cylinder to prevent further damage. Sorry for writing a book. Lemme know if this works.
I did disconnect the battery, and the "service engine soon" light went off because I left the battery off for 15 mins and that automatically resets the computer..The light hasn't come back on yet, but I can still hear the misfire and feel it at an idle and when accelerating. I've looked over all wires and I can't seem to find anything. I'm lost...

---------- Post added at 09:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:51 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure View Post
Can you see any damage to the COP harness or connector on #1 anywhere?
No, nothing at all.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:59 PM   #7
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Is it any better since u changed plug and cop
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:10 PM   #8
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Did you replace the plug wire itself when I changed my plugs I broke one of the plugs and it misfired like hell.
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:47 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Vegas97gt
Did you replace the plug wire itself when I changed my plugs I broke one of the plugs and it misfired like hell.
I have two broken connectors, but they seem to stay connected when the COP is fully seated. What did you end up doing to fix it?
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

I have two broken connectors, but they seem to stay connected when the COP is fully seated. What did you end up doing to fix it?
I believe you just buy a new connector and cut the old and build the new.
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:33 PM   #11
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Re: Misfire Emergency!!! =0

All I know is that the spark plug, coil pack, and fuel injector are brand new. Everything is seated properly and SHOULD be working right..Idk what else it can be. I even took everything back apart, checked the gap on the spark plug, made sure the coil pack was making connection with the spark plug, and still have the same problem. I wonder if maybe the wire plugging into the injector isn't getting power, and thats why the injector isn't doing anything. Does anyone know how much voltage the injector wire should be putting out? So I can test it with my multi-meter to see if its even getting power.
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDGT14
All I know is that the spark plug, coil pack, and fuel injector are brand new. Everything is seated properly and SHOULD be working right..Idk what else it can be. I even took everything back apart, checked the gap on the spark plug, made sure the coil pack was making connection with the spark plug, and still have the same problem. I wonder if maybe the wire plugging into the injector isn't getting power, and thats why the injector isn't doing anything. Does anyone know how much voltage the injector wire should be putting out? So I can test it with my multi-meter to see if its even getting power.
Not sure exactly, but there should be voltage at that connector each time cylinder 1 is supposed to fire. You could try your volt meter on one side of the plug and the other side of the volt meter to ground. Should show voltage on the fire. Switch to the other side if the connector if you get nothing. That's my best guess to test.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:34 AM   #13
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Re: Misfire Emergency!!! =0

Funny thing is that I went to Mienekee after I left Autozone and the mechanic said it was my injector too, so maybe it's a good thing I didn't let him do it, or I would have paid for the new injector and then paid him to install it, just to have the same problem.
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Old 05-21-2012, 02:03 PM   #14
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At this point I would take it to pepboys or full service shop and pay to have them do a full diagnostic even if you don't want to have them fix it..they can at least pinpoint the problem for you.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:36 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Arron's racecar
At this point I would take it to pepboys or full service shop and pay to have them do a full diagnostic even if you don't want to have them fix it..they can at least pinpoint the problem for you.
True
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:10 AM   #16
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Pull the plug out and look to see its condition.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:30 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by 1fst86
Pull the plug out and look to see its condition.
Already did. And it's a brand new plug.
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:30 PM   #18
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Inspect all your other plugs. Just to do it. Shouldn't be changing one plug at a time anyways.

Oh and don't use a multimeter on that coil connector. Disconnect or backprobe it and buy a test light, they're cheap.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:35 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by AgentOrange
Inspect all your other plugs. Just to do it. Shouldn't be changing one plug at a time anyways.

Oh and don't use a multimeter on that coil connector. Disconnect or backprobe it and buy a test light, they're cheap.
All of the plugs are brand new, about 2 days old. And why not?
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDGT14

All of the plugs are brand new, about 2 days old. And why not?
You can read the resistance on the COP by itself with your VOM. Maybe the voltage read at the connector is there and gone so fast it might be easier to see with a light? I'm just guessing.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDGT14

All of the plugs are brand new, about 2 days old. And why not?
Sorry, all I read was "changed the plug" though perhaps you changed just one plug. Disregard that advice. The reason I recommend a test light is if you don't have a DVOM with min/max, you won't be able to see the voltage to the COP as well. A test light is easy to see, cheap, and worth having in the toolbox for next time.
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