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Old 06-05-2012, 12:04 AM   #1
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Brakes? Hydro boost? HELP?!

When I went to put my master cylinder and brake stuff back together after the swap my friend forgot to put the "check valve" (I'm guessing that's what it's called it's a small plastic part that gos under the PS line ) back in causing my brakes to lock up once I turned the car on. I relized the valve was in my tool box so I put it back in, now I have no power steering or power brakes. I'm guessing it's because the valves clogged or something not allowing the PS fluid to circulate. Dos anyone have any input or know where I can find a new check valve?
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:05 AM   #2
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Re: Brakes? Hydro boost? HELP?!

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When I went to put my master cylinder and brake stuff back together after the swap my friend forgot to put the "check valve" (I'm guessing that's what it's called it's a small plastic part that gos under the PS line ) back in causing my brakes to lock up once I turned the car on. I relized the valve was in my tool box so I put it back in, now I have no power steering or power brakes. I'm guessing it's because the valves clogged or something not allowing the PS fluid to circulate. Dos anyone have any input or know where I can find a new check valve?
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Yes, autozone sells them in their help section....
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:05 AM   #3
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Why can't I find them can you find a link of Something to it
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:47 PM   #4
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Re: Brakes? Hydro boost? HELP?!

Help/Chrysler/Ford/GM check valve and grommets (80189) | Power Brake Booster Check Valve | AutoZone.com

Go into autozone and give them the part number...in fact go to the site print off the page and bring it to them.
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:01 PM   #5
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That's not it this is a small white plastic part that looks sorta like a bullet it gos under a PS line in the master I'm about to just go to a dealer
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:49 PM   #6
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Re: Brakes? Hydro boost? HELP?!

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That's not it this is a small white plastic part that looks sorta like a bullet it gos under a PS line in the master I'm about to just go to a dealer
Oh...not sure about that man...you said check valve and thats the only one I know of that goes to the boaster.
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:55 PM   #7
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Oh...not sure about that man...you said check valve and thats the only one I know of that goes to the boaster.
Ya that's when a car uses vacuum to power the brakes theys use the Power steering I know nothing about this damn set up
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:07 PM   #8
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Re: Brakes? Hydro boost? HELP?!

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Ya that's when a car uses vacuum to power the brakes theys use the Power steering I know nothing about this damn set up
Oh ok well mine is still like the old days then...wish I could help on yours but just go to the dealer and see if they have it. Sometimes its not that high as you think when you go there for parts.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:16 PM   #9
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Oh ok well mine is still like the old days then...wish I could help on yours but just go to the dealer and see if they have it. Sometimes its not that high as you think when you go there for parts.
Ya that's what ima do I think
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:28 PM   #10
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Re: Brakes? Hydro boost? HELP?!

I would honestly...and bring the part with you and they can look it up.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:21 PM   #11
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Ya I got to rip it apart again
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:42 PM   #12
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Did you follow the bleeding procedure correctly? Since you said hydro booster, if u don't bleed air out right first time before engine start it could be a nightmare.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:08 PM   #13
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Did you follow the bleeding procedure correctly? Since you said hydro booster, if u don't bleed air out right first time before engine start it could be a nightmare.
We'll the problem is it probably wasn't bleed right. How do you do it properly? I'm guessing that can be part of my problem
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:17 PM   #14
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Re: Brakes? Hydro boost? HELP?!

Speaking from experience and a vid I bought from Autozone, and multiple tries. The idea is to remove as much air bubbles from the lines as possible. More air, less performance. Still, you must remember that each component must be in good working order; power steering pump, steering rack, and the brake booster, but in this case its hydraulicly operated. From what I have learned, the small cylindrical gas looking device on top of the hydro builds pressure whenever the brake pedal is depressed.

Before you begin step on the brake and have them lock up if possible. Maybe do it near your work area. Drive the car to your work area (hopefully nearby) slowly to avoid damaging anything. Raise the car on all 4 corners. Turn the wheels by hand and find the binding wheel or wheels. Before you proceed to the below bleeding techs, check the brake assembly thoroughly.

First do some checks. Ensure the brake cylinder fluid resovior cap is sealing. You can tell by escaping fluid around the cap. Sometimes fluid forces its way out when its overfilled.

Find the appropriate open wrenches and gently tighten the fluid inlet/outlet lines (right to tighthen).

Check the wrack fittings as well. If the pressure overflow lines leak, air can also get back in. If all is good then lets move on to bleeding.

The process for bleeding is easy but it requires a partner to assist to get it done right. Because you already have fluid in the system we will work on removing some of it then replacing it with fresh fluid. According to the Haynes dexron 4 is the right fluid but I bled it out over time and replaced mine with regular power steering, clear fluid. It works better somehow.

1. Disconnect the ignition coils. Leave the battery hooked up.
2. Insert the key in the ignition and turn to on to unlock the steering wheel. Turn off any accessories to save battery power. Time the key on with the next steps.
3. disconnect and drain the power steering resovior. We are trying to remove some of the bubble contaminated fluid. If you are pretty good at it you can remove more fluid via the rack; the more you get out the better.
4. Reconnect hoses and/or lines as necessary.
5. Replace fluid via the resovior. Leave the resovior cap off.
6. Have someone turn the steering wheel to the right or left lock then back off about 3 inches and wait a few seconds maybe longer. While this is happening eyeball the fluid in the resovior and watch for bubling; big ones. It take a while but be patient.
7. Follow the step in #6 and turn the wheel in the opposite direction and observe. When the bubbling slow, have someone crank the engine for about two seconds if you can. This will cycle the fluid through the pump and the system. Watch for bubbles. The concept is that if you crank the engine for too long the large bubbles turn into millions of tiny bubbles that cannot be bled from the lines. When you are satisfied move to the brake lines and bleed them. Remember to bleed the line furthest away form the booster then work you way to the closest. ABS does not matter.

8. Check the pins that allow the callipers to float to make sure they are not damaged, cross threaded, or bent. Also ensure that they thread all the way in, not causing binding. Its meticulous but attention to detail should yield dividends.

9. Risky business:

Note: Over time you can continue to bleed the bubbles out of the lines by simply emptying the power steering fluid resovior and pouring clean fluid in. do a short bleed every time.
Tip: You dont need an assistant to bleed. Stick the key in the ignition then turn the front wheels by hand slowly then wait for the process to complete then turn it again in the other direction. To flush out the old fluid you would have to do this as often as you have time and then follow the shortcut procedure I just showed you.

Undoubtedly as true to most forums, someone will say different, but when you don't have cash to waste, you learn important techniques that pros won't tell you.

If none of this works then shift you focus to your ABS. I have not experience in that area.

Credentials: Replaced steering rack and pump. Repaired leaking booster by tightening lines first. It worked. Bled the system wrong the first time and had to redo it. Bled all Brake lines and replaced large percentage of fluid enhancing braking system. When I started my car wandered all over the roadway, and was outright un-road worthy. Now its like new. I learned from the experience. I never tighten a bold, screw or anything that wont go in by hand first. I follow simple rules because I dont have money to waste.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:25 AM   #15
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So I'm beginning to think my pumps bad It was leaking last night so I changed it fixed one leak then the pressure lines leaking tried fixing it all say no luck bought a new line still no good and the pump makes a noise when it's got fluid in it
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:25 PM   #16
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So I'm beginning to think my pumps bad It was leaking last night so I changed it fixed one leak then the pressure lines leaking tried fixing it all say no luck bought a new line still no good and the pump makes a noise when it's got fluid in it
It's hard to tighten the fittings on the lines. Use a little plumbing tape to help out. When the lines leak its not because of component failure, but workmanship. It not easy using the plastic seals and getting them to thread. They are supped up plumbing material that can withstand pressure.

---------- Post added at 08:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:21 PM ----------

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So I'm beginning to think my pumps bad It was leaking last night so I changed it fixed one leak then the pressure lines leaking tried fixing it all say no luck bought a new line still no good and the pump makes a noise when it's got fluid in it
Don't buy any more lines. Focus on proper assembly. Make sure you have the little white casket seals. If you damage the autozone sells them in the help section. The usuall come in multiple sizes though. Ford dealers carry them too. About $2 per washer.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:53 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by LAS97GT

It's hard to tighten the fittings on the lines. Use a little plumbing tape to help out. When the lines leak its not because of component failure, but workmanship. It not easy using the plastic seals and getting them to thread. They are supped up plumbing material that can withstand pressure.

---------- Post added at 08:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:21 PM ----------



Don't buy any more lines. Focus on proper assembly. Make sure you have the little white casket seals. If you damage the autozone sells them in the help section. The usuall come in multiple sizes though. Ford dealers carry them too. About $2 per washer.
New line had one on it new pump came with one
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:31 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by BlacK02

New line had one on it new pump came with one
Just remember they are a bugger to tighten the fittings and get that dang washer to seal the thread. Some times I want to follow stock specs, but a little modifying sometimes is better. Problem is you you never know if you work is good enough until you assemble everything and start driving. Have fun, I always do.
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:24 PM   #19
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I can't get this ****ing thing new pump new lines new seals trying a booster next
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:40 PM   #20
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I can't get this ****ing thing new pump new lines new seals trying a booster next
Remember, all you have to do is seal the fittings. Plumbing tape may be used but not preferred due to risk (low) of particles entering line. Wrap tape in opposite direction of tighten to prevent unraveling. A leak at the pump area is not bad. Leaks on the rack, not good. Leaks at the booster not bad but reduces perf. Just tighten fittings. Fittings are best accessible by going in between the valve over and the booster.

---------- Post added at 10:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Remember, all you have to do is seal the fittings. Plumbing tape may be used but not preferred due to risk (low) of particles entering line. Wrap tape in opposite direction of tighten to prevent unraveling. A leak at the pump area is not bad. Leaks on the rack, not good. Leaks at the booster not bad but reduces perf. Just tighten fittings. Fittings are best accessible by going in between the valve over and the booster.
Before you get another booster consider this. You said the pwr steering fluid was not moving with engine running. The booster has nothing to do with fluid flow. It the line was blocked I am sure the fluid stop at the resovior from the one side that is flowing. I would say go back over the Problems, you must be missing something. Did you replace the hydra boost before? If you have the stock original don't disassemble it unless you have to. Dealers in my area won't even mess with it. They stopped stocking it too. Since you installed new lines you may have to spend an hour or more bleeding, waiting for air to pass through the system. It takes a long time for air to surface in the resovior. I would. Check the pump again.
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:26 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Remember, all you have to do is seal the fittings. Plumbing tape may be used but not preferred due to risk (low) of particles entering line. Wrap tape in opposite direction of tighten to prevent unraveling. A leak at the pump area is not bad. Leaks on the rack, not good. Leaks at the booster not bad but reduces perf. Just tighten fittings. Fittings are best accessible by going in between the valve over and the booster.

---------- Post added at 10:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 PM ----------



Before you get another booster consider this. You said the pwr steering fluid was not moving with engine running. The booster has nothing to do with fluid flow. It the line was blocked I am sure the fluid stop at the resovior from the one side that is flowing. I would say go back over the Problems, you must be missing something. Did you replace the hydra boost before? If you have the stock original don't disassemble it unless you have to. Dealers in my area won't even mess with it. They stopped stocking it too. Since you installed new lines you may have to spend an hour or more bleeding, waiting for air to pass through the system. It takes a long time for air to surface in the resovior. I would. Check the pump again.
I'm getting fluid going to the high pressure side of the booster I do not have any fluid coming out the return side so my guess is the check valves stock closed and the booster only costed 50 bucks off Craigslist

---------- Post added at 04:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:10 PM ----------

anyone know what this is
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:32 PM   #22
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Re: Brakes? Hydro boost? HELP?!

I see why dealers wont mess with hydro boosters. Guess you will either have to back track and reassemble or get another booster and build from there. Where did that check valve come from? Did you uninstall the current one? It looks worn. I'll do some in depth research. From what your saying, sounds like you need to review your work. Note that most dont have hydro-booster experience. We tend to baby them until they break. If mine breaks I will convert to vaccum boosters versus hydraulics. Parts are scarce except in junk yards. Send a post to Eturner on this forum (do a search and invite him over), he may have more info than I do.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:57 PM   #23
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Any luck so far?
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:42 PM   #24
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I'm getting fluid going to the high pressure side of the booster I do not have any fluid coming out the return side so my guess is the check valves stock closed and the booster only costed 50 bucks off Craigslist

---------- Post added at 04:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:10 PM ----------

anyone know what this is
Found this in my engine compartment after removing and reinstalling hydroboost. Still no one know what it is?
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Old 08-22-2015, 02:06 PM   #25
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did u get this figured out?
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