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Old 06-07-2012, 11:38 PM   #36
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I got my Eibach camber bolts from American Muscle, but H&R and EZ cam also make them. They really are a nice option if you don't want to drill holes in your shock towers.
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:32 AM   #37
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Okay so I am going to go with h&r super sports and camber bolts and Tokico shocks and struts?
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:51 AM   #38
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Okay so I am going to go with h&r super sports and camber bolts and Tokico shocks and struts?
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:03 PM   #39
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What are y'all talking about lowering. I know nothing about this. Rear or front or what
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:04 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullitt1075
I got my Eibach camber bolts from American Muscle, but H&R and EZ cam also make them. They really are a nice option if you don't want to drill holes in your shock towers.
Do you get a lot of adjustment out of the camber bolts? Cause I would think with how low he's gonna be dropping that you wouldn't get enough adjustment out of it
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:01 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF

Do you get a lot of adjustment out of the camber bolts? Cause I would think with how low he's gonna be dropping that you wouldn't get enough adjustment out of it
They give you 1.7 degrees of movement both ways. I think they will give him plenty adjustment, but they say you can use a second set and effectively double they range of adjustment.

---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000_gt
What are y'all talking about lowering. I know nothing about this. Rear or front or what
Lowering the cars ride height all around, but sometimes you need extra camber adjustment in your front suspension to achieve proper alignment.

---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by RUNNWLD
Okay so I am going to go with h&r super sports and camber bolts and Tokico shocks and struts?
You should be real happy with that setup. The last 2 cents I'm throwing in, is the difference about linear rate/race springs and progressive rate/ sport springs. I have owned both types and i prefer race springs due to the predictability you get from one constant spring rate from a race spring. Sport/progressive rate springs have two different rates, initially the rate is similar to a stock rate but gets stiffer during hard cornering, changing attitude half way through a corner. Sport springs are great for a DD, but if you think you may want to track or Auto-x , you may want to look into a race spring.
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:09 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowflyn
I love my h&r race springs. Currently have cut v6 springs on the back for a temporary fix. All 4 fenders are rolled to clear tires. 275 front and 305 rear
+1
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:20 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullitt1075

They give you 1.7 degrees of movement both ways. I think they will give him plenty adjustment, but they say you can use a second set and effectively double they range of adjustment.

---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 PM ----------



Lowering the cars ride height all around, but sometimes you need extra camber adjustment in your front suspension to achieve proper alignment.

---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------



You should be real happy with that setup. The last 2 cents I'm throwing in, is the difference about linear rate/race springs and progressive rate/ sport springs. I have owned both types and i prefer race springs due to the predictability you get from one constant spring rate from a race spring. Sport/progressive rate springs have two different rates, initially the rate is similar to a stock rate but gets stiffer during hard cornering, changing attitude half way through a corner. Sport springs are great for a DD, but if you think you may want to track or Auto-x , you may want to look into a race spring.
So that will be a great setup for my DD and a good race stance?
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:56 PM   #44
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I think it will be a nice well rounded set up, you will just need to decide on how much camber to run. 1 degree of negative camber is a good place to start. Here are a couple pics i just took to give you an idea of how low the H&R race springs are.
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Old 06-09-2012, 08:55 PM   #45
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I'm 17 so I don't really know a lot so it might be a dumb question but how am I supposed to know how much camber to run?
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:50 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUNNWLD
I'm 17 so I don't really know a lot so it might be a dumb question but how am I supposed to know how much camber to run?
For you its probably best to run the stock settings. Just take it to a shop and have them align it for you
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:19 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUNNWLD
I'm 17 so I don't really know a lot so it might be a dumb question but how am I supposed to know how much camber to run?
Not a dumb question, that why we are on this forum to learn about and share our collective knowledge and love of mustangs with fellow enthusiasts. When figuring out how much camber to run, you need to first examine your tires and how they are wearing.

---------- Post added at 03:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:08 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by bullitt1075

Not a dumb question, that why we are on this forum to learn about and share our collective knowledge and love of mustangs with fellow enthusiasts. When figuring out how much camber to run, you need to first examine your tires and how they are wearing.
Sent it too early. So when I took my car in for an alignment, my tires were wearing excessively on the outer edges, so to correct this I added a degree of negative camber to add up to 1.5 degrees total. A good starting point is .5-1 degree of negative camber, from there I would keep a close eye on tire wear. So if the inner edge of your tires are wearing too quickly you will want to add positive camber to correct the uneven wear and vise versa for the outer edge wearing, you will need to add negative camber to correct the uneven wear.
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:54 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullitt1075
I have camber bolts and I have lots of adjustment with them. Plus they cost a fraction of the price compared to camber plates. They are around $25-30, I'm vet happy with them, and you don't have to drill an extra hole in your shock tower, like you do with 4 bolt camber plates. Just a thought.
Bullitt, what springs are you running while still getting enough adjustment with just camber bolts. I'm looking into super sports and wanna know if camber bolts will get my car back on spec.
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:37 PM   #49
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I'm running H&R race springs which isn't a crazy drop. My Bullitt started off .75 inches lower than a stock GT, and now with the H&R's, it is 1.25 inches in front and 1 inch lower than a stock GT in back. I didn't need the camber bolts to correct excessive negative camber. I used them to add more negative camber to aid in turn in. But I would say that you should have enough adjustment with the Super sports because they are only .5 lower than the race springs.
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:16 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullitt1075
I'm running H&R race springs which isn't a crazy drop. My Bullitt started off .75 inches lower than a stock GT, and now with the H&R's, it is 1.25 inches in front and 1 inch lower than a stock GT in back. I didn't need the camber bolts to correct excessive negative camber. I used them to add more negative camber to aid in turn in. But I would say that you should have enough adjustment with the Super sports because they are only .5 lower than the race springs.
With only a slight more of a drop I think the bolts will work just fine. Where did you order them from and did you use a certain brand. I'd love to save the money and put it towards shocks.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:05 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosco

With only a slight more of a drop I think the bolts will work just fine. Where did you order them from and did you use a certain brand. I'd love to save the money and put it towards shocks.
I have eibach camber bolts, I ordered them through America Muscle for between $25-30 (I can't remember exactly how much). I found a video on YouTube on how to install and adjust camber bolts also. One thing no one could tell me was torque specs. Customer service at American Muscle was absolutely no help, so I ended up calling Eibach, and they said to torque the bolts to factory specs which is 125ft/lbs.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:49 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullitt1075

I have eibach camber bolts, I ordered them through America Muscle for between $25-30 (I can't remember exactly how much). I found a video on YouTube on how to install and adjust camber bolts also. One thing no one could tell me was torque specs. Customer service at American Muscle was absolutely no help, so I ended up calling Eibach, and they said to torque the bolts to factory specs which is 125ft/lbs.
Thanks for all the info man, this is all pretty straight forward and shouldn't be a big hassle. While I have everything taken apart, is it worth putting new isolators in.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:57 AM   #53
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Thank you sooo much I will be getting all those things in the next couple weeks when I get my paycheck so thank you!!!
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:45 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosco

Thanks for all the info man, this is all pretty straight forward and shouldn't be a big hassle. While I have everything taken apart, is it worth putting new isolators in.
My pleasure, I'm glad I could help. I have the isolators, and I'm happy with the overall feel. The factory rubber isolators were almost shot, so I just replaced them with the stiffer polyurethane isolators, but I hear of people just wrapping the ends with electrical tape and having no squeaking or noise issues.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUNNWLD
Thank you sooo much I will be getting all those things in the next couple weeks when I get my paycheck so thank you!!!
You're welcome, I'm positive you will love your new suspension when you are done, you will be taking corners on rails.
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:23 AM   #55
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I don't see why drilling a fourth hole for c/c plates is the big turn off? It literally took maybe fifteen minutes for me to drill and install my new plates during my whole suspension overhaul.

Btw; I run Tokico d-spec shocks/struts, H&R SS springs, Steeda x2 balljoints, Steeda Bumpsteer, MM C/C plates, and J&M upper and lower control arms(soon), and I absolutely love it. Kinda sucks to drive on bad Baton Rouge roads but is excellent in corners and launches.

I attached a couple pics. In the second pic you can see my -1.5camber I'm running on my front tires.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:20 AM   #56
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For most I don't think it is an issue to drill an extra hole in their strut towers, but I want to be able to return my Bullitt to stock if I ever have to sell it. It is still a very low mileage car with only 16,500 miles on the odometer.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:29 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by bullitt1075
For most I don't think it is an issue to drill an extra hole in their strut towers, but I want to be able to return my Bullitt to stock if I ever have to sell it. It is still a very low mileage car with only 16,500 miles on the odometer.
+1000000000 well taken care of! That's how a mustang should be!!!!!
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:06 PM   #58
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+1000000000 well taken care of! That's how a mustang should be!!!!!
Hey, hey. I take very good care of my stang.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:01 PM   #59
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Hey, hey. I take very good care of my stang.
Haha so do I!! I can't wait to see the numbers your going to be running when your motor is done!!! Let us know cole!
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:40 PM   #60
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Re: Which springs?

The H&R Super Sports paired with the Tokico HP's is a good chice. I have that same setup and the springs mesh perfectly with the shocks/struts.

The advantage of the CC plates is the ability to adjust caster and camber. The stock 99-04 v6/GT's have -.5 degrees of camber and ~3 degrees of caster.

So I'd aim to get your new suspension setup as close to those specs if you plan on having a street/dd car. Obviously track/autocross cars have more aggressive caster/camber as well as toe in/out settings.

When I did my suspension and got an alignment, the mechanic told me that he probably could've gotten the specs into check with the stock plates, but it was much easier to do with the 4 bolts...so I'd recommend either the 4 bolt plates or the camber bolts, especially with the H&R SS's.

If you leave your isos in then the camber bolts should be fine to get your camber back to stock specs or near there. Plus it'll save you some coin. I will say the CC plates look badass under the hood, I've gotten quite a few compliments and questions about them, and with my drop being slightly over 2" I'm glad I have them.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:28 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by sonicpony03
The H&R Super Sports paired with the Tokico HP's is a good chice. I have that same setup and the springs mesh perfectly with the shocks/struts.

The advantage of the CC plates is the ability to adjust caster and camber. The stock 99-04 v6/GT's have -.5 degrees of camber and ~3 degrees of caster.

So I'd aim to get your new suspension setup as close to those specs if you plan on having a street/dd car. Obviously track/autocross cars have more aggressive caster/camber as well as toe in/out settings.

When I did my suspension and got an alignment, the mechanic told me that he probably could've gotten the specs into check with the stock plates, but it was much easier to do with the 4 bolts...so I'd recommend either the 4 bolt plates or the camber bolts, especially with the H&R SS's.

If you leave your isos in then the camber bolts should be fine to get your camber back to stock specs or near there. Plus it'll save you some coin. I will say the CC plates look badass under the hood, I've gotten quite a few compliments and questions about them, and with my drop being slightly over 2" I'm glad I have them.
I'm going with the camber bolts, stock isolators, H&R SS, tokico shocks and struts, so I'll be good right?
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:39 AM   #62
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Re: Which springs?

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Originally Posted by bullitt1075 View Post
I would actually look at what you want in your spring and go from there. Your stock springs are 400lbs and rears are 180ish lbs, so I would really look at spring rates over brand.
So true!!

Also look into Vogtland springs

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Old 06-15-2012, 07:40 PM   #63
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Re: Which springs?

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I'm going with the camber bolts, stock isolators, H&R SS, tokico shocks and struts, so I'll be good right?
Yah you should be fine...after you install the springs and isos let them settle for a few weeks, then take the car in for an alignment. By allowing them to settle, you get the true height drop and you won't have to take the car in for another alignment after the car settles and drops another .5".

If you can, avoid driving the car a whole lot for those weeks, mainly to reduce the tire wear, but if you can't it probably won't kill your tires. I wouldn't wait a year though.

The Super Sports do drop the car a considerable amount and your geometry specs will change noticeably, so I would also recommend a bumpsteer kit. This kit will get your control arms and tie rods traveling at the same rate again, which will reduce the increased amount of bumpsteer caused by the lowering springs. It's worth the money spent on the kit.
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