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Old 06-16-2012, 10:08 PM   #1
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Bogging problems

I've been chasing a bogging problem with my car. There are two instances where I think the car should not run the way is running.

First) - I know with the A/C on, you notice some power loss. What I feel is a constant bogging feeling. When the A/C is on, the car feels like it has a banana in the tailpipe or something. It feels like there is half the power, literally.

Second) - the occasional time I forget to turn off the traction control, an intermittent prob occurs. Normally, I can hear and feel the car adjust if I get on it while the TC is on. Maybe a quick little bog or something to that effect. When its warm to hot outside, the TC will actually bog the car to nearly a stop as soon as shift to 2nd gear. It won't do that every time, but when it occurs, it seems odd that the TC would react that strongly. It's like if you were trying to roast the tires, but I'm not doing anywhere near that.

The reason I mentioned both, is because I'm thinking the problem is related somehow. I changed the plugs and fuel filter within the last three weeks, with Motorcraft parts. Does anybody have an idea what or where I should look next to get rid of this bogging? Thanks!
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:18 PM   #2
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Re: Bogging problems

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Originally Posted by Azure View Post
I've been chasing a bogging problem with my car. There are two instances where I think the car should not run the way is running.

First) - I know with the A/C on, you notice some power loss. What I feel is a constant bogging feeling. When the A/C is on, the car feels like it has a banana in the tailpipe or something. It feels like there is half the power, literally.

Second) - the occasional time I forget to turn off the traction control, an intermittent prob occurs. Normally, I can hear and feel the car adjust if I get on it while the TC is on. Maybe a quick little bog or something to that effect. When its warm to hot outside, the TC will actually bog the car to nearly a stop as soon as shift to 2nd gear. It won't do that every time, but when it occurs, it seems odd that the TC would react that strongly. It's like if you were trying to roast the tires, but I'm not doing anywhere near that.

The reason I mentioned both, is because I'm thinking the problem is related somehow. I changed the plugs and fuel filter within the last three weeks, with Motorcraft parts. Does anybody have an idea what or where I should look next to get rid of this bogging? Thanks!
Not sure, but your car is tuned, right? If it is check the RPM ranges you set. I get a serious bog when I mis-set it. Just guessing. I don't have TC on my 97. Must be nice. I spin out on wet roadways in a tick.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:24 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Not sure, but your car is tuned, right? If it is check the RPM ranges you set. I get a serious bog when I mis-set it. Just guessing. I don't have TC on my 97. Must be nice. I spin out on wet roadways in a tick.
Normally, it works pretty good for everyday driving. Not so much since the hot weather has set in. It's an intermittent occurrence too.

No tune from me. I believe it just has been tuned for the gear change. Do you think a tuner would fix this, meaning this is normal for an un-tuned 4.6L engine?
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:06 PM   #4
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I dumped some Seafoam in the gas tank today and filled it up with fresh gas. I thought it would an easy thing to try. Maybe if it makes things better, I should look at the injectors...? Does anybody know if there are emissions parts that could cause bogging? I've had this since the weather warmed up in late March, so I know it's not bad gas.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:35 AM   #5
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Even a bit of tire spin pulls timing when TC is on. I have it in my car. I'd try seafoaming the motor as well, although i must say my car has 80k and was clean as a whistle. Is your air filter clean? New plugs? Check engine light on? (Misfire maybe)
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:05 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentOrange
Even a bit of tire spin pulls timing when TC is on. I have it in my car. I'd try seafoaming the motor as well, although i must say my car has 80k and was clean as a whistle. Is your air filter clean? New plugs? Check engine light on? (Misfire maybe)
This bogging (if the TC was on) would happen before the wheels would even attempt to spin. When it was cold out back in Feb or early March, you could feel and hear the TC working, but the car would still move forward.

I started by changing plugs. All the old plugs looked good too. Then I changed the fuel filter.

How does yours do with the AC on? Does your feel seem bogged or muddy when you are under heavy or WOT? My wife's car, you can't really tell the AC is on. Same when I had my 87 GT. That's why I'm wondering if I've got a prob somewhere.
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Normally, it works pretty good for everyday driving. Not so much since the hot weather has set in. It's an intermittent occurrence too.

No tune from me. I believe it just has been tuned for the gear change. Do you think a tuner would fix this, meaning this is normal for an un-tuned 4.6L engine?
Sounds to me like you should go through your vacuum lines, and check for blockage, check plugs, and so to eliminate those problems (someone already posted that above). Check your PCM after to make sure you are not chipped too. If all checks out see if a dealer will check free of charge (since yours is still stock), heard they do. Dont spend $ on a tuner till your ready to buy one. If you do get an SCT live wire or better so you can trouble shoot by yourself.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Sounds to me like you should go through your vacuum lines, and check for blockage, check plugs, and so to eliminate those problems (someone already posted that above). Check your PCM after to make sure you are not chipped too. If all checks out see if a dealer will check free of charge (since yours is still stock), heard they do. Dont spend $ on a tuner till your ready to buy one. If you do get an SCT live wire or better so you can trouble shoot by yourself.
Thanks! I'll give that a try.
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:31 PM   #9
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Yeah there's an issue there somewhere. I can't tell when the compressor is on, and I definitely don't bog under WOT.
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentOrange
Yeah there's an issue there somewhere. I can't tell when the compressor is on, and I definitely don't bog under WOT.
That's good, at least I'm not imagining it. Do you happen to know what the COP's should ohm out at? Maybe I have some that aren't 100%.
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

That's good, at least I'm not imagining it. Do you happen to know what the COP's should ohm out at? Maybe I have some that aren't 100%.
This is not the gospel, but I believe primary should be less than two ohms and secondary should be in the 8-10k range.
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentOrange

This is not the gospel, but I believe primary should be less than two ohms and secondary should be in the 8-10k range.
Thanks Agent!
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Thanks Agent!
I try
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:00 AM   #14
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I pulled them and checked resistance. Primary was ~.8 on all but two, they were ~.7. Secondary was ~5.7k on all but the same two, they were ~5.6k. My searches said readings should be .55 primary and 5.5k secondary, so they should be good. I also heard you should put dielectric grease on the coil to plug connection, so I did that too. I'm not really sure what else to test. I guess I could have it scanned at the dealership to see how it's running. I don't know if they charge for that.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure
I pulled them and checked resistance. Primary was ~.8 on all but two, they were ~.7. Secondary was ~5.7k on all but the same two, they were ~5.6k. My searches said readings should be .55 primary and 5.5k secondary, so they should be good. I also heard you should put dielectric grease on the coil to plug connection, so I did that too. I'm not really sure what else to test. I guess I could have it scanned at the dealership to see how it's running. I don't know if they charge for that.
I'm sure they do. Anything that takes up a tech for any amount of time costs money. You don't have any codes do you? Only issues that affect emissions will throw the light.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentOrange

I'm sure they do. Anything that takes up a tech for any amount of time costs money. You don't have any codes do you? Only issues that affect emissions will throw the light.
Haven't had any codes yet. I guess I'll take the CAI off and clean the MAF. Do you think a dirty throttle body could cause bogging?

I priced some MSD COP's...wooo $366 for the set. That is a beefy number
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:13 PM   #17
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I had a similar issue work my mach owned up replacing sill of the cop s and it fixed the issue, if you are looking to replace coilsI would go with OEM or rotunda (thecompany that makes the could for ford) unless youplan on going for big boost
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:02 PM   #18
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Hey Azure.

If u want a checklist to work through I would start with ur iac and make sure its not playing up. Make sure your vaccume is all good. It really messes with our machs. Next I would have your o2 sensors checked. Make sure your cat isn't clogged because that ccan cause a bog.

I would definitely make your next purchase a tuner. You never know what your tuning is until you do it yourself. Guys at AM are awesome and I love my tune from them.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:42 AM   #19
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[QUOTE="kelidd"]I had a similar issue work my mach owned up replacing sill of the cop s and it fixed the issue, if you are looking to replace coilsI would go with OEM or rotunda (thecompany that makes the could for ford) unless youplan on going for big boost[/QUOTE


Quote:
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Hey Azure.

If u want a checklist to work through I would start with ur iac and make sure its not playing up. Make sure your vaccume is all good. It really messes with our machs. Next I would have your o2 sensors checked. Make sure your cat isn't clogged because that ccan cause a bog.

I would definitely make your next purchase a tuner. You never know what your tuning is until you do it yourself. Guys at AM are awesome and I love my tune from them.
Thanks for the help guys! I will definitely add these to my list of stuff to try. I've only got 38k miles so I know she shouldn't be acting this way.
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:57 AM   #20
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Just a little FYI for you guys, a sensor that has a intermediate problem doesn't always throw the light. Sometimes it's not bad enough to do that. I've used modis scanners to read the parameters and ranges and found sensors bad that didn't throw the light. Like a little dead spot in a tps sensor, or a iac that hangs just a second then kicks open or vice versa. Just cause that light comes on doesn't mean that's exactly what it is or even if it doesn't. Always suspect until you rule out the parameters on the sensors.
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:27 AM   #21
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Just a little FYI for you guys, a sensor that has a intermediate problem doesn't always throw the light. Sometimes it's not bad enough to do that. I've used modis scanners to read the parameters and ranges and found sensors bad that didn't throw the light. Like a little dead spot in a tps sensor, or a iac that hangs just a second then kicks open or vice versa. Just cause that light comes on doesn't mean that's exactly what it is or even if it doesn't. Always suspect until you rule out the parameters on the sensors.
I agree, if they didn't have a "range" of acceptable operation, we'd be living in a world of constant CEL. So, can the dealership run some scans for these types of probs? I don't want to just start replacing stuff. I can look in my chiltons and see if there are some tests I can do for the IAC at least.
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:34 AM   #22
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Dealership can charge you alot for that. If it was me and I didn't have a scanner I'd look to some of the independent shops. Just tell them you want to check your system to make sure it's all functioning properly and in their parameters. Do not trust the parts store scanners. I use a snap on modis scanner myself. Dyno shop also may be able to help you.
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:59 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95v686gt
Dealership can charge you alot for that. If it was me and I didn't have a scanner I'd look to some of the independent shops. Just tell them you want to check your system to make sure it's all functioning properly and in their parameters. Do not trust the parts store scanners. I use a snap on modis scanner myself. Dyno shop also may be able to help you.
Thanks for the tips!
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:57 AM   #24
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Cleaned the MAF last night. It definitely looked cleaner afterwords. Seemed to run pretty good this morning. Of course, it was 60 degF this morning w/low humidity. I'll see how she runs over the next couple days.

Will the IAC get cleaned up if I use Seafoam in the intake?
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:05 AM   #25
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I have never used the seafoam in the intake so I don't know. If it was me I would use throttle body/carb cleaner on it. It's only what 2 screws and a plug... Besides you can spray the cleaner directly on the plunger in the iac. You can also clean your tb while your at it. When's the last time you gave those butterflies a good bath hmmm?
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:11 AM   #26
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I have never used the seafoam in the intake so I don't know. If it was me I would use throttle body/carb cleaner on it. It's only what 2 screws and a plug... Besides you can spray the cleaner directly on the plunger in the iac. You can also clean your tb while your at it. When's the last time you gave those butterflies a good bath hmmm?
That looks to be easy to remove too, right? I suppose I will need to pickup some new gaskets as well. The TB does look a little whored out
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:18 AM   #27
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Just pull the iac and clean it. Tb cleaner works wonders
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:09 AM   #28
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Ok, cleaned the IAC and the TB. The IAC looked kinda black on the inside of both holes. The part did not look like it could be disassembled, so I just sprayed the shat out it. Used a Q-Tip too. The TB wasn't as dirty. There was carbon around the edges of the butterflies and on the surface mainly just past the butterflies in the plenum. Funny cause the Chiltons book told me not to use cleaner on it saying it had been designed to resist sludge and that doing so would actually impair performance of the engine. This just sounds hoky. The surface felt the same after cleaning the part so we'll see. Hopefully, doing all this will scare away all the bogging I would occasionally experience.
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Old 06-27-2012, 10:14 AM   #29
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It should act alot better. My 05 v6 used to bog and I cleaned the maf tb and iac on it.
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:03 PM   #30
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Got my tuner and all three tunes pretty much fixed the bogging problem. Probably helped most was cleaning the MAF and IAC along with the tune.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:33 PM   #31
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Good glad it's all straightened out
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:44 AM   #32
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Yay!
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