03 Mach 1 motor build - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1996-2004 Mustang GT



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 06-30-2012, 11:47 AM   #1
Registered User
Newbie
 
DSGMACH1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Region: Wisconsin
Posts: 9
03 Mach 1 motor build

Hey guys,
I am planning on procharging my Mach. I am curious what a ball park figure would be for me to forge the internals. I plan on working my way up to 700 rwhp. I know it will have to be tuned, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, etc... but the main thing i am looking for is the motor build.
Thanks
DSGMACH1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-01-2012, 06:48 AM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
Jlt00bluegt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSGMACH1
Hey guys,
I am planning on procharging my Mach. I am curious what a ball park figure would be for me to forge the internals. I plan on working my way up to 700 rwhp. I know it will have to be tuned, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, etc... but the main thing i am looking for is the motor build.
Thanks
I'm not sure on the cost to forged internals but you might want to do some research on your block. I don't think the aluminum blocks in the machs can handle that kind of power. You might look into getting a complete shortblock and selling yours.
Jlt00bluegt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2012, 07:20 AM   #3
Registered Member
Regular
 
ColeJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ketchikan, Alaska
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 2,507
I'm almost positive the '03 Mach motor is essentially a cobra minus the s/c plus a shaker hood. So internals should be forged? Google it.
__________________

2016 Comp Orange GT (current)
Aurora - 2002 Boosted GT! (Sold, sadly)
ColeJohnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-01-2012, 07:24 AM   #4
Registered Member
Regular
 
02PONY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 886
^I'm not sure if the Mach s internals were forged
Maybe a Mach owner will step in tho
__________________
02PONY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2012, 10:00 AM   #5
Registered Member
Regular
 
TheJigShow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sewell
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 262
The Mach 1 engines have a forged crank, but that's about it. The internals and block can really only handle about 450-500 rwhp, and that's pushing it. You're going to need to beef up that bottom end and internals if you're looking to push that much power.
__________________
"Jig"
2014 Ford Focus ST (ST3, Tuxedo Black Metallic)
1997 Ford Mustang GT (Rio Red) (RMR #7832)

2003 Ford Mustang GT Centennial Edition (Black) (SOLD)
2004 Ford Mustang GT (Redfire) (SOLD)
1985 Chevrolet C10 Custom Deluxe (Red) (SOLD)
TheJigShow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2012, 10:26 AM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
Rm360's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Region: Illinois
Posts: 1,140
The Mach 1's share the same motor as the cobra minus the supercharger and pistons and rods , the crank is forged , the pistons and rods will be roughly $700-$900 depending on what you buy plus the cost of honeing the block and assembly will be about another $500-$600 , I would also upgrade the heads with better valves and valve springs and a little bit more aggressive cams to reach those power #'s , your block should be able to handle that power
Rm360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2012, 11:17 AM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
DaBluedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Region: Canada
Posts: 1,996
Mach 1 owner.

The mach engine (manual transmission only) have forged cranks. The rods are not forged and will need to be replaced with the pistons. As for the block they are WAP blocks but have been taken to 800 crank hp safely before. Do not do a bigbore stroker kit! The block will be stressed enough. You would be wise to switch over to arp2000 bolts as well. Your pistons are up to you but I like 9:1 compression which combined with 19-24lbs of boost should get you close with good tuning. I recomend buying a forged stroker kit (4.8-5.0 litres final displacement, boring the cylinders for smoothness (kits usually want .020 over which is ok) decking the cylinder heads and block. Remember that shaving the block and heads will increace compression ratio so look for a kit with a final comp ratio of 8.6-8.8 to get close to 9. Talk to your engine builder for sure... if he looks confused by anything, walk away. I would budget 3000 for parts for the engine alone if you want to do it right. More if your having it built and benchtested. Your also going to need a transmission and driveshaft. Stock stuff wont hold up.
__________________
2003 Mach 1
DaBluedude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2012, 02:40 PM   #8
Registered User
Newbie
 
DSGMACH1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Region: Wisconsin
Posts: 9
Re: 03 Mach 1 motor build

Thanks, I know i have to upgrade everything else eventually. Im not planning on jumping straight to 700+ hp, but if im gonna rebuild the motor, i want it ready for those #s..... I was also just debating if I would be better off to sell this motor and get the cobra crate motor, or try to find a wrecked cobra... And ya, definately going to an engine builder i trust.. This is all preliminary now... I just wanna try to keep up to my buddy and his viper. lol
DSGMACH1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 11:23 AM   #9
Registered Member
Regular
 
runvsofthisbull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Region: Florida
Posts: 606
Re: 03 Mach 1 motor build

Tough to find a 03-04 cobra motor for under 4-5k so that being said I'd probably go the rebuild route, plus your going to have completely new parts which is a huge plus as opposed to a wrecked cobra who's previous owner for sure abused the s@*t out of it regardless of what or who they said the owner was (grandma driven etc). Plus with the aftermarket parts you'd have a better built motor for the same or possibly less cost. Just my opinion.
__________________

2002 True Blue V6 to GT Vert
16.1@86 as an auto 3.8
2.15 60', 9.3@77, 14.4@96 as a 5spd SOHC 4.6
runvsofthisbull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2012, 01:43 AM   #10
Registered Member
Regular
 
TtownMach1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Region: Oklahoma
Posts: 158
Re: 03 Mach 1 motor build

DaBluedude is spot on with that post.

You may want to look into a Teksid block instead of the WAP. They have been known to hold more power. Sean Hyland has done many builds with that foundation. There are a few guys at Mach1Registry that have stroked their WAP block and are making huge power. Just do some research and figure out what fits you best.

By the way the Teksids came in 96-98 Cobras, Maybe some mark 8s. Not 100% on that tho. Check out Svtp or M1R forums for some high hp mach 1 builds.

---------- Post added at 01:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 AM ----------

P.S please don't short change yourself on ring lands/bearings/bolts. From what i've read those are some of the first things to go POP.
__________________
5-Speed-IUP, Predator tuned, k&n cai,Mrt shifter,Hooker Lts-o/f x-pipe, KC clutch,Alum flywheel,FR 4:10's. Upr rear control arms. Forged Teksid Eaton swap in progress!

WickedStangs Mustang Club
Tulsa,OK Chapter President
TtownMach1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 11:55 PM   #11
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Yakima
Region: Washington
Posts: 9
Smile I have already done this

OK let me help save you a lot of time and money not to mention heartache. I own a 2003 Mach 1 that I added a d1sc
Procharger to. Do not add forced induction to a stock Mach 1. Only the manual has a forged crank and that's the only upgraded part. You will need forged internals plus the t3650 transmission is not rated to handle and increase in numbers like your after. I blew my engine on the dyno then had it rebuilt. Forged internals and bored out .20 but I left the stock transmission in and only upgraded the clutch. I don't drive it much but one of the bearings is going out and after 3yrs of minimal driving it needs to be replaced. I found D n D performance that specializes in transmissions. They don't carry the upgraded t3650 so they highly recommend the t56 magnum transmission and conversion kit. It's a 6spd they stated can handle up to and over 1000hp. I was told it will be the last transmission I buy for my car. Also I will warn you since mine was dyno at 550rwh they are a handful on the street. Expect to upgrade brakes asap and suspension immediately. It's a blast to drive but definitely expect this to be very expensive. Since my blower was installed before the rebuild I spent more but still here is a break down of how much it can cost. 6500 for blower and install. Engine rebuild parts and labor around 6500 and this was done by a shop that specializes in mustangs. T56 magnum transmission and kit 4000 plus shipping and install is around 1000 because these transmissions are a pain to install. Clutch and flywheel for t56 can range but expect about additional 1000. Brakes, rotors and calipers and yes I highly recommend stepping it up here because the stock ones won't cut it. This can run anywhere from 1000 to 4000 depending on what brand you go with. Drag springs to handle the launch run roughly 400. Now if you do the math your around 19000 to 20000. I'm sure someone will say this is too much. But if you pay for labor you get what you pay for. And you don't want just anyone messing with this car. In my opinion there temperamental and require a knowledgeable mechanic and they cost money. So far I have everything listed done plus I have exhaust work also done and only need the transmission, brakes and springs and I've already invested around 14000 into mine. Before you do all of this also find a good shop to tune the car. That's one of the hardest parts I think, at least where I'm at in the PNW there aren't a lot of options and places have been closing down. If and when you decide to pull the trigger and want advise or need to bounce ideas around feel free to contact me. Chances are I've already done the upgrade or I'm in the planning stage. Best of luck to you and enjoy that Mach 1 when she's finished.
frpp2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:13 AM   #12
Registered Member
Regular
 
Screaming Mach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lebanon
Region: Missouri
Posts: 857
There is a guy in my town with the same car I have, and is pro charged with forged internals, running stock trans with a stage 3 clutch running 10s he has had no problem with his trans and he runs slicks!
Screaming Mach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:20 AM   #13
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Yakima
Region: Washington
Posts: 9
Screaming Mach. What is his car pushing for hp? The t3650 isn't meant to handle anything beyond about 400hp. Any transmission shop will tell you it's a gamble and maybe he's just lucky. Most of us aren't and it's great to see one putting down numbers like that. Myself I side on the caution side of things plus this has turned into a full on restoration and customization project for me. I'm getting prepared to throw down 10000.00 on a new paint job in a year or two.
frpp2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:24 AM   #14
Registered Member
Regular
 
Screaming Mach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lebanon
Region: Missouri
Posts: 857
Quote:
Originally Posted by frpp2003 View Post
Screaming Mach. What is his car pushing for hp? The t3650 isn't meant to handle anything beyond about 400hp. Any transmission shop will tell you it's a gamble and maybe he's just lucky. Most of us aren't and it's great to see one putting down numbers like that. Myself I side on the caution side of things plus this has turned into a full on restoration and customization project for me. I'm getting prepared to throw down 10000.00 on a new paint job in a year or two.

I'm not sure what he is pushing out, but definitely more then 400, and yes it's better safe then sorry what color is your mach going to be?
Screaming Mach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:25 AM   #15
Registered Member
Regular
 
Screaming Mach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lebanon
Region: Missouri
Posts: 857
I'm glad to see some one putting money into there mach! I love these cars lol
Screaming Mach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:28 AM   #16
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Yakima
Region: Washington
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Screaming Mach View Post
I'm not sure what he is pushing out, but definitely more then 400, and yes it's better safe then sorry what color is your mach going to be?
I'm staying with the azure blue but having them paint the stripes and decals into the paint so it looks like it sits inside the blue. Want it to look original with a slight custom twist. The shop in town is one of the best in the area. There show cars look like a mirror when done hence the high price but well worth it to me. And yes I agree I wanna be safe rather than sorry. What have you done to your Mach?
frpp2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:33 AM   #17
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Yakima
Region: Washington
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Screaming Mach View Post
I'm glad to see some one putting money into there mach! I love these cars lol
It's a passion of mine. It's something I shared with my dad when he was alive. Plus I love the retro remake of the Mach. There rare and no one in my area has one like mine. For some reason no one in my area understands what it has so it's fun to toy with people from time to time. I still need to button up a few things then eventually wanna do a few passes to see what she can do at the track. Street tires and a bad trans. Didn't help me last time and my numbers were horrible. But on the street she's a beast. Just wish we had more owners near by to hang out.
frpp2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:46 AM   #18
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Yakima
Region: Washington
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Screaming Mach View Post
I'm glad to see some one putting money into there mach! I love these cars lol
Here is a video of when it was getting tuned. It's pretty loud on the video but even louder in person. Running straight pipes all the way back.

YouTube search 550hp mach1. You'll see my user name frpp2003. That was just after the rebuild and being tuned.
frpp2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:59 AM   #19
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,411
That sounds like an awesome car!

That's a ton of money to sink into it though...

Well don't be shy, let's see some pics!
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 07:05 AM   #20
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
If you are going to do it right its the same price or cheaper to buy a Terminator or Coyote for $20k.

If you are paying for labor it will be around:

$6k for motor
$6k for blower install
$4-5k for a trans to hold it
$2k for misc stuff and tune

You are now at near $20k. You can buy a Termi or Coyote for about that and that isn't including the $$ you'll get for your Mach. Now if you are building everything yourself and keeping it under 500hp you can get away with the stock trans and cut out the labor and if you buy some parts used that can cut it down even more. I've seen some crazy builds that didn't cost THAT much money but they were still near the $10k mark for a good serious power car which may or may not be worth it.
__________________
2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 08:24 AM   #21
Registered Member
Regular
 
Screaming Mach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lebanon
Region: Missouri
Posts: 857
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
If you are going to do it right its the same price or cheaper to buy a Terminator or Coyote for $20k.

If you are paying for labor it will be around:

$6k for motor
$6k for blower install
$4-5k for a trans to hold it
$2k for misc stuff and tune

You are now at near $20k. You can buy a Termi or Coyote for about that and that isn't including the $$ you'll get for your Mach. Now if you are building everything yourself and keeping it under 500hp you can get away with the stock trans and cut out the labor and if you buy some parts used that can cut it down even more. I've seen some crazy builds that didn't cost THAT much money but they were still near the $10k mark for a good serious power car which may or may not be worth it.

That all is right but some people want to build a mach, not a coyote or a tremi.
Screaming Mach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 09:54 AM   #22
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Yakima
Region: Washington
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Screaming Mach View Post
That all is right but some people want to build a mach, not a coyote or a tremi.
I have to side with Screaming Mach. It's no different than the original Mach back in the day. Some of us just want the Mach. Plus for me I own my Mach and spent 6yrs paying for it. It's one of a kind around my area and a head turner where ever I go.
frpp2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 12:55 PM   #23
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
If you want the Mach, go with the Mach, just saying it is much more cost effective (and you'll get your money back out of it) to go with a car already making that power. Honestly if I was getting a Mach it would be an auto 2004. 4V, 4r75w trans only offered in 2004 automatic Mach/GT cars. Bolt ons, gears, 2800rpm stall, suspension and you have a relatively inexpensive 11 second car. Probably break into the 10s with the sauce or drop a turbo on it and set it to 425hp and enjoy.

You can also do the same thing to a 2004 GT and wind up with the same power if you do a power adder and DIY because the rotating assemblies are the same strength but for NA the Mach clearly wins.
__________________
2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 12:58 PM   #24
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,411
Quote:
Originally Posted by frpp2003 View Post
I have to side with Screaming Mach. It's no different than the original Mach back in the day. Some of us just want the Mach. Plus for me I own my Mach and spent 6yrs paying for it. It's one of a kind around my area and a head turner where ever I go.
Plus you need something to keep your mind off of the miserable weather in WA...
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:04 PM   #25
ME Bloodhound
Staff
 
Soccerluvr4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sacramento/Bay Area
Region: California
Posts: 14,672
03 Mach 1 motor build

Sometimes things aren't really about cost efficiency. Sure he could get a completely base model coyote and make power. Or just get a Termi, but then you lose the point of why you are doing it.

Same reason I'm deciding to dump money into the Bullitt instead of putting that money toward selling it and "upgrading" to a different car. I'm not worried about the "resale value" or what I will actually get out of it, because I don't plan on selling it, so I don't even factor that in.

You lose the fun of the hobby if you go the road most/easiest traveled.
__________________

Bullitt build paused pending graduation

HID end all thread
Soccerluvr4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:14 PM   #26
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,411
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soccerluvr4 View Post
Sometimes things aren't really about cost efficiency. Sure he could get a completely base model coyote and make power. Or just get a Termi, but then you lose the point of why you are doing it.

Same reason I'm deciding to dump money into the Bullitt instead of putting that money toward selling it and "upgrading" to a different car. I'm not worried about the "resale value" or what I will actually get out of it, because I don't plan on selling it, so I don't even factor that in.

You lose the fun of the hobby if you go the road most/easiest traveled.
You're right!
And you have to factor in the entertainment value that us gearheads get from doing our "projects". Also, we get to stand back every once in a while and think to ourselves "I did that!"
That's why we do it...
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:15 PM   #27
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
Lol, like I said, if you want to build XYZ, build XYZ. I am just putting down some ballpark numbers for ppl who might think they are saving money buying a cheaper car and then building it up. I am actually in a debate right now on what to do with my 98 just for this reason.
__________________
2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:25 PM   #28
ME Bloodhound
Staff
 
Soccerluvr4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sacramento/Bay Area
Region: California
Posts: 14,672
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Lol, like I said, if you want to build XYZ, build XYZ. I am just putting down some ballpark numbers for ppl who might think they are saving money buying a cheaper car and then building it up. I am actually in a debate right now on what to do with my 98 just for this reason.
Yea i totally get where you are coming from about buying a cheap car and building it to "save money" I'm pretty much just saying, if you really want to build something, just do it.

Kind of like that that Mastercard commercial... X costs this much, Y costs this much, Z costs this much, end result = priceless.

Just my way of looking at it.
__________________

Bullitt build paused pending graduation

HID end all thread
Soccerluvr4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 08:11 PM   #29
Registered Member
Regular
 
Screaming Mach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lebanon
Region: Missouri
Posts: 857
Quote:
Originally Posted by frpp2003 View Post
Here is a video of when it was getting tuned. It's pretty loud on the video but even louder in person. Running straight pipes all the way back.



YouTube search 550hp mach1. You'll see my user name frpp2003. That was just after the rebuild and being tuned.

Nice man it sounds mean!! And looks clean!
Screaming Mach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 01:36 AM   #30
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Yakima
Region: Washington
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Screaming Mach View Post
Nice man it sounds mean!! And looks clean!


Screaming Mach:


Thanks, its pretty clean minus the rock chips you cant see. I will upload some pics and the video into another forum since this one was for Mach1 build. Stay in touch.
frpp2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 07:38 AM   #31
Registered Member
Regular
 
Slow4V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Sa
Region: Alabama
Posts: 2,208
My buddy just put a P1 procharger on his Mach 1 5spd and 6 months after the engine blew.
Slow4V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 07:41 AM   #32
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post
My buddy just put a P1 procharger on his Mach 1 5spd and 6 months after the engine blew.
Bad tune? Too much boost? Something else let go?
__________________
2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 05:28 PM   #33
Registered Member
Regular
 
Slow4V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Sa
Region: Alabama
Posts: 2,208
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Bad tune? Too much boost? Something else let go?

5 psi , good tune , just these motors aren't meant to be boosted
Slow4V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 05:54 PM   #34
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
Another reason I am thinking of selling my 98 and getting something better. Like I said in the previous threads. I could get a lower mileage automatic F body with a few mods for not much more than I'd get selling my 98 and that car is an infinitely better starting platform for going fast in a straight line.
__________________
2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 08:08 PM   #35
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,411
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post
5 psi , good tune , just these motors aren't meant to be boosted
Too high a compression ratio stock...
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1996-2004 Mustang GT

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


» Members Mustangs

Nova

jh1hawk

Shelby

Vladimir
Add your Mustang
» Like Us On Facebook



11:48 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.