5-Speed Swap Instructions - Mustang Evolution

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Old 08-11-2012, 12:34 PM   #1
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Post 5-Speed Swap Instructions

Hello, I have a 02 GT auto and I am in the process of taking it out and putting in a TR3650. I noticed there is no good instructions on how to do this so my Dad and I will be writing some here. I bought a full conversion kit from MPS auto on ebay and I will be putting in the steps on how to do the swap as my dad and I go along. I am planning on editing this post as we go along so please check again for more steps. Before starting it is wise to use liquid wrench or WD-40 on some of the bolts.

1. Get your car raised, mine is on 6 jacks. 2 on rear axle, 4 on the lift points under the car. (if you look under the car you will see where the body plastic meets the under side and in that rib next to the tires is a place were the rib gets smaller, those are spot to put a jack) I also have a floor jack under the engine area. REMEMBER TO BE SAFE!

2. Remove the H-pipe. I did the bolts at the cat back first then removed the rear sensors . Next the bolt that meat the headers. These are tricky and you will need lots of extensions and some swivles to reach these bolts. Use a air rachet for these because they have pry been there a while. Once those are removed we got the front two sensors out. You wil pry need to remove the bar between the front suspension to drop out the front of the H-pipe.

3. Remove driveshaft. There is four bolts holding it in at the end were it meets the rear end. Just use a air impact gun to remove these four bolts. You will need to put the car in neutral to rotate the shaft to get to some of the bolts. Once those are off drop that end and pull twords the rear of the car which should slide it out of the transmission.



We have got all the auto stuff out so far, I will be back on later to discribe that process.
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:49 PM   #2
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This is exactly what I needed. I have a 01 GT tht I want to convert.
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:11 PM   #3
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Re: 5-Speed Swap Instructions

Transmision removal;
1.) remove 5 bolts from trans to block - 3 drivers side, 2 passenger side
2.) Torture time, remove the starter, if your battery is disconnected you can leave the wires attached - 2 lower easy, the 3rd higher one - extensions to front of k-member will get it, now fun
3.) Remove transmission mount bolts (with transmission supported) - 4 bolts on black support
4.) remove all lower wiring connections you can reach - some are impossible now
5.) lower transmission as far as can, 2 short extentions, 3 long extentions and a swivel will get the top two mounts - this is a pain in the a$$ if you are 46 and your eyes dont function like they used to - young people proceed without cussing
6.) Remove lowe trans dust cover - 3 bolts on auto - go from front to back
7.) remove 4 bolts from flywheel to torque convertor - helper holding crank still is a bonus - this friend can spin the next bolt down to you
8.) remove the two transmission lines - at this point minimal oil spill.......
9.) support oil pan with jack and block, support transmission and put pressure on to take the weight - be careful! - slide transmission back about 1-2 inches to get it away from flywheel - let trans jack - expect exxon valdez size spill at this point.....
10.) lower and slide out from under the car - again, tail shaft leaks all over the damn place - dipstick tube comes loose and makes mess of garage floor complete
11.) remove trans - *** wipe up excess trans fluid, found out long ago paint thinner (no smoking or electrical close) poured on fluid then wiped up will get your garage floor back to wifes approveal for when she gets her spot back......
12.) remove electrical harness for the automatic.........

---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 PM ----------

order can be changes above..............

---------- Post added at 07:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 PM ----------

okay, now to the pedals - have a drink for the read (no, not the work)....
1.) Son removed the bottom plastic panel
2.) you have 3 nuts (13 MM) on the inside and one on the engine side (lower left as you face it)
3.) here is where i cheat for you...... - remove the steering knuckle (both ends) and push shaft out to the engine side a little - you CAN get the auto setup out with this on place......... maunal setup......no way in hates
4.) remove the 3 nuts, then you have one bolt up (10mm) - remove all
5.) remove wiring from brakes and two other connectors on the bracket
6.) remove clip on breakpedal (looks knarly, actualy comes off easy)
7.) slide break rod that goes through firewall by pushing to side, white nylon washer, then black nylon slweeve into this gizmo - the break switch slides off with it
8.) okay, if your stupid like me you didnt remove the steering knuck and you cuss some but this setup WILL come out with some contortions.........
9.) okay, now to the 2 pedal torture chamber.....
10.) outside of the car........ remove the bolt on the clutch pedal arm and remove the shaft out - slides to the left, dont lose the white nylon bushings - make note of relation of cable cam to shaft for re-install
11.) there is a little black box right in front of the clutch - no clue what it does, remove the two 5/16 screws and move it out of the way
12.) remove all the switches off the remainign assembly
13.) dont cuss at me, you got yourseld into this next part just like i did....snake the thing back in - yes it will fit, but not without some threats........
14.) once back in close..........dont bolt it yet, rock it to the side and slide the clutch pedal shaft back in, make sure the clutch cable cam is where it was and slide on the pedal and big nut (18mm???)
15.) roll it up and slide back into the 3 bolts from the firewall - put on your 3 nuts, 1 bolt up - and of course your nut on the firewall side
16.) **inject this higher, remove the plug in the firewall where the clutch cable goes through
17.) tighten the clutch pedal nut back on, make sure it "seats" on the square shaft correctly
18.) connect up the wiring, the brake stuff is the same, there is one on the auto that has a dead end "loop" connection, it fit right on the clutch pedal assembly switch for what i assume is the "push to the floor" feature for the clutch
18.) take your clutch cable, push it on from the firewall side, it runs over the cam and into the slot at the end, on the firewall side we screwed to the two holes (used "tek" screws, no holes where there)
19.) reconnect the steering knuckle - it helps to have someone push from the bottom side, also, dont be afraid the remove both ends of the knuckle in the step aboe, just replace the spring on the shaft in the same way it came off, this was not hard
20.) to the best of our knowledge the cable runs out and loops down under the oil filter and back to the trans - length was right and it connected up (if someone knows better please advise)
21.) replace the plastic pannel under the dash

***crud, forgot the seat - step 00 - remove the seat - front nuts no problem, back to bolts, run the seat forwad and hose them with penetrating oil - if you get the seat forward an impact works great, or like me you break one and have to get the stuck turkey out............

---------- Post added at 08:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 PM ----------

Transmission in..........
looks like i forgot "remove auto flywheel above" - assume if your doing this you have already formed your letter of correction to me.........
1.) can be either of two - install pilot bushing - install flywheel (damn that thing is heavy after being on my back under the dash!
2.) install your clutch and pressure plate - pilot tool is your friend...........
3.) install your manual wiring harness, loop out of the way - they dangle is 20 different directions (more on that comment later...)
4.) we replaces the back trans mount - didnt seem to smart to do this much on an old one.......
5.) jack with wood block under oil pan - be nice, damage not desired
6.) jack under manual trans (forgot to mention - a "motorcycle lift" works good on this, even on the auto trans removal
7.) lift trans - aim shaft to center of clutch - sounds easy huh.......okay, the engine wont "droop" enough without trans weight - pull manifolds down help line it up - okay - cuss........doesnt really help - just mentally for some reason..........
8.) back up to 3 - make sire the damn wiring is out of the way! - yes, we got in and lined up, only to see the bonehead manuver - had to back it out and sttart all over... grrrrrr
9.) line it up and push it in - being a GM boy in my formative years i have never pushed the bellhousing on - seemed like a royal pain in the butt! - get your lower bolts in, 3 drivers, 2 passenger, pull it up good and close - without the wiring pinched
10.) remove the jack under the oil pan - lower the trans jack and put together the 52 extentions - i put up with the swigel off to puch the bolt up to the holes, then nudge them in, add back the swivel - tighten them from the next county like you removed them
11.) drape the wiring back over the transmission
12.) lift the trans up and put the 4 bolts back in the trans mount
13.) **we did a test, put the clutch cable on (it makes sense when you mlook at the close) - had son put in driveshaft to trans, pushed in clutch in 1st gear and verified he could them rotate the driveshaft - we had sucess (remember that wiring aboe, we lost an hour to that amature (yes, we are ) mistake

---------- Post added at 08:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:10 PM ----------

break for dinner and drinks, reiterate to son next time we buy a manual! - go to work on monday for some body recovery time........more to come as we can this week..
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:12 AM   #4
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Re: 5-Speed Swap Instructions

Slow day yesterday due to work;
1.) Driveshaft bolted back in
2.) Filled trans (royal purple.)
3.) Draped wiring back down over trans
4.) Seat back in (offending broke bolt removed)
5.) Starter bolted back on
6.) Two bolts at front of trans (bottom) through dust cover into trans bolted in


Remaining to do;
1.) Replace mid pipe and tie in sensors
2.) find location of clutch cable to k member bolt and bolt up
3.) do the clutch "slack" adjustment (found thread on this, hopefully do tonight or tomorrow night)
4.) finish removal of the transmission lines - (anyone got insite on how the damn things come off at the radiator, turned them all the way loose and something still "holding" on, do you have to take the "large" connection loose to??)
5.) Finish inside the car - lower boot seal and upper boot with shifter
6.) change whatever needs done in the computer (this is sons area of work, i understand BAMA is fixing us up on this part..............)

More to come..............
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:18 PM   #5
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:53 AM   #6
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Just wondering, could you do the opposite and turn a 5 speed standard into an auto?
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Call me fez View Post
Just wondering, could you do the opposite and turn a 5 speed standard into an auto?
You can get a good look at the plastic quadrant in one of the pics^

Do a search for tranny swaps. It's easier to swap from a manual tranny to an auto.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

You can get a good look at the plastic quadrant in one of the pics^

Do a search for tranny swaps. It's easier to swap from a manual tranny to an auto.
The plastic deal with the gear teeth on it?
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Call me fez View Post

The plastic deal with the gear teeth on it?
Yup!
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:20 AM   #10
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Ok thanks! I will check that tomorrow.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:48 AM   #11
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If you are looking for everything you need just contact me or my dad. The transmission will pry need a rebuid, when I took it out it was taking around three seconds to get into gear. Every thing else is good though.


I no longer have that plastic quardrant, i got a steeda one now.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:56 AM   #12
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Thanks man. Does the aftermarket quadrant and clutch cable with the firewall adjuster really make a big difference?
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:59 AM   #13
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I didnt notice a huge change, I have the quardrant and adjustable cable thats not at the firewall just at the clutch fork. I was afraid the quardrant was going to break due to my clutch being so heavy to push in so thats why i got the steeda one.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:57 AM   #14
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**Fez, yes, going to auto should be a breeze - I believe you will need the computer as well (going from auto to manual they can write you a tune and not need to swap the computer), you will be missing the safety feature that ties the shifter into the ignition (cable from shifter) just like we are missing the "clutch peddle must be down" starting safety feature - shouldnt be a big deal however
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #15
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Yes I was wondering how it would start since the standards require you to push the clutch in order for it to start.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Call me fez
Yes I was wondering how it would start since the standards require you to push the clutch in order for it to start.
What my father forgot to mention is I have no traction control with a tuned auto CPU. Once we stick in the manual CPU we will see what is wrong real quick and I hope its just the CPU...
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