Idle Air Contol Gasket Mod? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-02-2012, 09:31 AM   #1
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Idle Air Contol Gasket Mod?

Has anyone heard of this. When you cut out the gasket you make the whole a little smaller? I don't know if there's any benefit except it corrects the hanging rpms. Wanting to know what size the whole should be. I know if its to small the car won't stay running. Any insite would be good.
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:02 AM   #2
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I've heard of it , haven't personally done it but heard it works
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Old 09-02-2012, 11:48 AM   #3
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I was always wondering why people did this mod. Now I'm wondering what the benefit of the RPMs dropping off sooner would be?
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:23 PM   #4
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It helps with throttle response a bit but it forces u to shift fast. Which is fine but it gets tedious when u just want to coast. I also find it powershifts better with the normal gasket.
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Old 09-02-2012, 01:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure
I was always wondering why people did this mod. Now I'm wondering what the benefit of the RPMs dropping off sooner would be?
Probably nothing. Just sounds cool when your revving up the engine and the rpms drops quicker. Sound like an old school muscle car.
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:33 PM   #6
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It helps with throttle response a bit but it forces u to shift fast. Which is fine but it gets tedious when u just want to coast. I also find it powershifts better with the normal gasket.
I'm not sure I'll ever be that fast at shifting honestly. I've been wanting to get a short throw, but I change my mind every time cause I don't think it will help me much.
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:50 PM   #7
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Short throw is my one of my favorite mod it helps tremendously especially 2-3 shift
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:52 PM   #8
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Short throw is my favorite mod it helps tremendously especially 2-3 shift
Is the throw shorter and help line up the gears? I've never owned a short throw, always have had stock.
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:58 PM   #9
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I've never had a short throw either this was my first it's steeda tri ax real notchy feel. Yes gears are straight. Haven't missed a shift since I've installed it and it only took like 45 mins to remove factory shifter and install new one
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Old 09-02-2012, 04:11 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 02PONY View Post
I've never had a short throw either this was my first it's steeda tri ax real notchy feel. Yes gears are straight. Haven't missed a shift since I've installed it and it only took like 45 mins to remove factory shifter and install new one
Maybe I should do it. I've never heard a bad thing about them.

---------- Post added at 05:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:06 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Pony View Post
Has anyone heard of this. When you cut out the gasket you make the whole a little smaller? I don't know if there's any benefit except it corrects the hanging rpms. Wanting to know what size the whole should be. I know if its to small the car won't stay running. Any insite would be good.
Sorry I've gone off topic here, but I think you should just keep the IAC clean and not mess with the gasket since it seems like its kind of a fluff mod IMO.
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Old 09-02-2012, 05:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Maybe I should do it. I've never heard a bad thing about them.

---------- Post added at 05:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:06 PM ----------



Sorry I've gone off topic here, but I think you should just keep the IAC clean and not mess with the gasket since it seems like its kind of a fluff mod IMO.
Yeah from what I've been reading it sound like a pain in the butt to deal with. More cons than pros.
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Maybe I should do it. I've never heard a bad thing about them.
Definitely get a short throw. I love my triax but I love that racy notchy feeling. A lot of guys who like a little softer feel go with the MGW and it's a great shifter too. But either way, do it!!! Best mod ever. And get a new knob. The stock one is too small. I love a full size billiard ball.
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:39 PM   #13
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Never hear of an idle air control mod
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:56 PM   #14
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I did it to my stang, it has motor motor braking and helps throttle response alittle
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:11 PM   #15
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How do you do it
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:48 AM   #16
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This is the super easy way without having to take apart and cut new gasket and all, I'm doing this today, I'll see how I like it
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...ap-mod.474890/
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:44 AM   #17
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Using a 1/2" copper pipe cap is the easiest way to add flow restriction to the IAC.

Also, more about short throw shifters here...
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:41 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
Using a 1/2" copper pipe cap is the easiest way to add flow restriction to the IAC.

Also, more about short throw shifters here...
Just picked up a 1/2 cap, when I get back ill drill it to 3/16, have you done this mod on your car cliffy?
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:24 AM   #19
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Yes, though as I have a small machine shop I made a restrictor insert from 3/4" aluminum barstock:



0.700" diameter, 0.625" long, 0.297" (19/64") bore...

The bore is a bit larger than many find to be the sweet point, however I also altered a couple "dashpot" settings in the tune:
  • The Dashpot Base Setting, a function that defines the speed at which the engine idles down when the throttle is closed. The function maps airflow (lb/m) values vs rpm, lower the airflow values to make the engine idle down faster;

  • The RPM vs Maximum Airflow function which defines the maximum amount of air flow (also in lb/m) to be allowed through the IAC--versus engine rpm.

In combination the larger bore and changes to the tune eliminate the stalling and other issues reported by using just the IAC restriction.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:41 AM   #20
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What would happen if you tried this on a supercharged car? I had to put a hose clamp on iac hose because it kept blowing off during hard acceleration.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:55 AM   #21
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What would happen if you tried this on a supercharged car? I had to put a hose clamp on iac hose because it kept blowing off during hard acceleration.
In that instance it is excess pressure buildup, from(too restrictive an air flow, making the hose blow off. I do not believe adding restriction in the IAC feed hose would affect that--could make it blow off with less than full boost...
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:41 PM   #22
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Cliffy, I installed the 1/2 copper cap with a hole drilled at 3/16...when I rev it real high, a terrible horrible buzzing/humming noise is coming from the iac area for like 5 seconds after revved up high..I got a video I'm gonna get on posting that now
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:05 PM   #23
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Help! Wanna get this figured out before night time, here's the video cliffy
http://youtu.be/CzcarWXWdgE
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:33 PM   #24
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Something else going on? Hole to small restricting too much air?
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:14 PM   #25
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Sounds like it's vibrating in the hose. try putting a zip tie or hose clamp where you put the restrictor.
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:31 PM   #26
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Sounds like it's vibrating in the hose. try putting a zip tie or hose clamp where you put the restrictor.
Good advice, just made sure it was dead in the center, than took a hose clamped and clamped it so it couldn't move or vibrate against anything, I even made the hole a tad bigger, but it still made the same noise...took the copper cap out and no noise, ARGHHH, I love how the RPMs drop with this mod but I am not risking breaking anything in there...btw here's my cap and hole size
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:33 PM   #27
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Did you try reversing the cap in the hose?
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:40 PM   #28
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Did you try reversing the cap in the hose?
No but I really don't see how that would fix the noise..examining the 2nd time when it was clamped, it definitely didn't sound like it was vibrating anything, it sounds like something is going bad in my iac/TB or something...maybe I'll try opening the hole even more?

---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:37 PM ----------

I had the cap with the open end facing toward the Throttle Body, so the drilled hole is facing the front of the car
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:27 PM   #29
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3/16" is too small, 9/32" is the smallest that will work on most engines. To avoid issues my experience has been that 5/16" works best overall...
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:56 PM   #30
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3/16" is too small, 9/32" is the smallest that will work on most engines. To avoid issues my experience has been that 5/16" works best overall...
Ahhh thank you, I was a bit confused I saw online most how to's saying 3/16
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:12 PM   #31
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Ahhh thank you, I was a bit confused I saw online most how to's saying 3/16
I have seen that as well, and can only assume it is from people that have never actually done it...
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:01 PM   #32
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I have seen that as well, and can only assume it is from people that have never actually done it...
Cliffy,
I went out to pick up another 1/2 cap today, drilled hole to exactly 5/16 and that noise is still there, have you watched the video I posted of the noise?
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:40 PM   #33
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Cliffy,
I went out to pick up another 1/2 cap today, drilled hole to exactly 5/16 and that noise is still there, have you watched the video I posted of the noise?
I just now have, that is a worn IAC making the "honking" noise, restricting the intake flow has exacerbated the problem--more about that here. They are good for 90k to 110k before needing to be replaced...
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:15 PM   #34
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I just now have, that is a worn IAC making the "honking" noise, restricting the intake flow has exacerbated the problem--more about that here. They are good for 90k to 110k before needing to be replaced...
Cliffy, thank you I really appreciate your help..looks like ill be replacing my iac, i really like the mod. I have 117k miles on my stock iac so I could go for a new one..any recommendation for a good priced one online? Thanks again
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:41 PM   #35
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Cliffy, thank you I really appreciate your help..looks like ill be replacing my iac, i really like the mod. I have 117k miles on my stock iac so I could go for a new one..any recommendation for a good priced one online? Thanks again

IDK, I do not generally buy inexpensive things like that online as I prefer to get the FLAPS warranty, and be able to go grab a live human by the throat if something goes wrong.

So, I have been running a Wells IAC from Autozone for 3+ years and 55k miles with no problems. Wells is an OEM supplier to the automotive industry, the actual unit was made by Nippon-Denso, as were all 2001-1/2+ IACs. The earlier IAC was made by Hitachi, and has a vented solenoid.

Hitachi IAC:



Denso IAC:



Other than the vent they are physically identical, and have the same electrical specs. They should be interchangeable, though I have never done it--the earlier Hitachi unit is often less expensive...
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New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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