HELP PLEASE!!! 2000 Mustang GT won't go into gear with car on!?! - Mustang Evolution

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Old 10-08-2012, 06:52 PM   #1
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HELP PLEASE!!! 2000 Mustang GT won't go into gear with car on!?!

My car won't go into gear with the engine on. Shifts fine with engine off. Has a new clutch, fly wheel. I'm using a ford racing quadrant with an adjustable cable. Is my clutch cable stretched?
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:13 AM   #2
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Are you shifting with the clutch in or out when the car is off?
Does it grind and bounce against you or just stop when you try to shift?
Could be anything from a poorly installed clutch to a bent shift fork.
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WICKED STANG 83
My car won't go into gear with the engine on. Shifts fine with engine off. Has a new clutch, fly wheel. I'm using a ford racing quadrant with an adjustable cable. Is my clutch cable stretched?
Does the clutch pedal feel extremely stiff?
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:55 PM   #4
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Did u adjust the clutch cable?

---------- Post added at 01:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:54 PM ----------

I would also make sure to check the cable on the side of the tranny where it goes to to see if it came undone from there......had it happen to me before -_-
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:52 PM   #5
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How much free play does the pedal have?

Press on the pedal with the ball of your hand, it should move 1 to 1-3/8" before you feel the TOB contacts the clutch spring fingers. If more than that the cable is too loose and the clutch will not fully disengage, if less than that the cable is too tight cause the TOB to compress the clutch spring too far and bind up the disc...
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Old 10-09-2012, 02:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk
How much free play does the pedal have?

Press on the pedal with the ball of your hand, it should move 1 to 1-3/8" before you feel the TOB contacts the clutch spring fingers. If more than that the cable is too loose and the clutch will not fully disengage, if less than that the cable is too tight cause the TOB to compress the clutch spring too far and bind up the disc...
Should the clutch pedal always have free play? I had a bit of free play and slight tob squeak, so I adjusted the clutch on the stock quadrant and tightened it 2 clicks (1 click makes tob squeak even more) am I doing more damage driving it adjusted like this?
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:06 PM   #7
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I have tried to adjust the cable both ways. Tighter and looser. I'm afraid if I tighten it too much I'll break my throw out bearing. The car shifts while off. But with the engine off I don't need to use the clutch. The car ran well for about 2-3 weeks before it got harder to shift and then to finally to the point of not shifting at all. Every now and then I can get it to grab 1st and then attempt it again and it won't catch gear. Any idea'?
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:11 PM   #8
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The pedal doesn't have much play. I'm using a spec stage 3 clutch and is pretty stiff.
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WICKED STANG 83
The pedal doesn't have much play. I'm using a spec stage 3 clutch and is pretty stiff.
You probably stretched your clutch cable.
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:46 PM   #10
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You adjusted your cable too much... had same problem
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:32 PM   #11
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Do you mean by adjusting the cable too much it caused it to go bad or become damaged?
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WICKED STANG 83
Do you mean by adjusting the cable too much it caused it to go bad or become damaged?
I would like to know this too, I tend to adjust my clutch often
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post
Should the clutch pedal always have free play? I had a bit of free play and slight tob squeak, so I adjusted the clutch on the stock quadrant and tightened it 2 clicks (1 click makes tob squeak even more) am I doing more damage driving it adjusted like this?
Yes, it should have 1" to 1-3/8" free play.

The overall mechanical advantage of the clutch control system (from the pedal to the TOB) is very close to 10:1--I.e. 1" of pedal movement produces 0.1" of TOB movement. Therefore 1" to 1-3/8" pedal free play creates the recommended TOB to clutch spring clearance of 0.100" to 0.125".

The TOB will make noises when their is insufficient clearance and it is lightly/moderately loaded against the clutch spring fingers. When the cable is tightened the TOB will make heavier contact with the spring fingers and often quiet down--however it will also then be spinning, under fairly heavy load at engine speed, and wear out prematurely.

The best solution to clutch control issues is to trash the stock plastic monkey-motion quadrant and pawl, and get an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster...
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WICKED STANG 83 View Post
The pedal doesn't have much play. I'm using a spec stage 3 clutch and is pretty stiff.
Spec clutches are well known for developing all sorts of problems, including catastrophic failures (see below). It seems their quality control is lacking.

If shifting problems persist when the cable is adjusted to provide 1" to 1-3/8" free play in the pedal (see my previous post) then I would seriously consider pulling the transmission and having a good look. At least peek in through the release lever opening and see what can be seen--just to be sure...


Spec clutch failures:
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:38 PM   #15
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im having the same probrem on my cobra, its realy hard to shift, im replacing the clutch cable and quadrant this weekend, hopefully thats it
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:57 PM   #16
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I replaced my clutch cable and now I'm grabbing gears again. Thanks for the helpful posts.
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WICKED STANG 83
I replaced my clutch cable and now I'm grabbing gears again. Thanks for the helpful posts.
How much you pay for a new clutch cable and install?
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:26 PM   #18
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The cable was about $45 through a local ford motorsports dealer. I put it in myself. I still need to get a firewall adjuster. Does anyone recommend a certain brand over the other? Is there really a difference?
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WICKED STANG 83
The cable was about $45 through a local ford motorsports dealer. I put it in myself. I still need to get a firewall adjuster. Does anyone recommend a certain brand over the other? Is there really a difference?
Is it simple to put in a new cable yourself? Not much mechanic knowledge here but is it something I can achieve?
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJstanger

Is it simple to put in a new cable yourself? Not much mechanic knowledge here but is it something I can achieve?
It's not too difficult.. Just need to jack up the driver side and have a basic set of tools. I replaced mine myself in a parking lot when mine broke haha.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:11 PM   #21
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Hi folks, read much if the thread. Here's what I learned. Don't adjust firewall adjusters with the engine running, shut it off, adjust, turn it on and test. Test by listening at idle, you'll hear it growling.
Back off the firewall adjuster all the way, then tighten 1 click.


When installing the cable, make sure it's not wound up in the cable guid/housing, give it a good yank, you should hear the clutch pedal clunk, hold it there. Thread the cable into the fork. Install the shouldered retaining nut hand tight. Install the jam nut next. All thus is done without turning the cable, note a wrench can be used to prevent that just beyond the fork.

About the fork. Does the fork stay on the pivot ball (for lack of the real name, it slips me) bolted to the tranny? If it falls off and the only thing holding the fork on is the release bearing and the input shaft, the fork is worn, very. No matter what bearing you use, it will make noise.

Ok, about SPEC stage 3. Take about 500 mi to break in, sometimes more. Are you using the stock steel fly wheel? If so. Did you have it turned before installing the new stage 3? It helps if you do. Did you use the alignment tool? Hope you did but no worries. Real question is is the tranny in all the way. May sound dumb, but improperly aligned clutch binds the tranny and makes it hard to install (input shaft bind). Did you ensure that the back plate screws were tightened till it met the fly wheel. I ask because SPEC is a tough one with Pre loaded tension.

If the clutch was installed correctly, then it would seem that depressing the clutch pedal provides insufficient pressure to disengage the clutch disk. Hence, reinstall the cable as I mentioned.

Worse case scenario, the tranny has a fault. I could go on, but for now, good luck. Check your work. It will take a few hours.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:18 PM   #22
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Hi, slight edit. Back off the fire wall adjuster all the way then add a click to ensure its threaded. Then follow on with installing at the clutch. Note there are about 2 places where the cable housing/guide us attached to the chassis. It there for a reason, use it. You get my meaning. Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:24 PM   #23
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My creds are available. Just search my handle and look under PI HEAD SWAP. I have a stage 2. Attention to detail is important as you love for the thrill of doing it yourself. I did.
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