Clutch Pedal Height Adjustment and Clutch Freeplay Mod - Page 2 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 10-24-2012, 11:20 AM   #36
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Yay!!! Finally found the spring after looking a two other Lowe's and a Menard's.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:35 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Really, my primary reason is for drivability. There is just a ton of extra travel that is not needed since I got the stage 1 clutch.

I've really only read a lot of talk about early wear on the TOB, never experienced it personally. It makes sense since you only need the bearing for switching gears. Another plus is that the free play mod will keep your pedal from being floppy when not depressed. The stock setup takes care if this with the spring loaded quadrant. Once you take it out, depending on how you have it adjusted, it could be floppy on top.
Like is commonly said, " TOBs fail, 1 in 10". except ford heavy duty. My SPEC did under 3K. Swapping to ford HD release bearing this weekend.
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:22 PM   #38
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I've been wondering if they made a kit to adjust pedal height. I adjusted my clutch cable to a better working position and now the pedal sticks higher than previously; I had to tilt my wheel higher to make leg room for the longer pedal travel. I can't wait to see your write up and pics when it's all done. Hope it's worth the effort.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:02 PM   #39
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I can chime in on this one, as my factory adjuster keeps my TOB against the pressure plate, causing it to squeak.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:02 PM   #40
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Quote:
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I've been wondering if they made a kit to adjust pedal height. I adjusted my clutch cable to a better working position and now the pedal sticks higher than previously; I had to tilt my wheel higher to make leg room for the longer pedal travel. I can't wait to see your write up and pics when it's all done. Hope it's worth the effort.
Yup, currently, my pedal is 1.5" to 2" higher than my brake pedal. I'm starting the install tomorrow.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:18 PM   #41
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If the tob rides on the pressure plate all the time it will definitely shorten the life of it. Just think about it.. in normal circustamces the tob only touches when you hit the pedal. So this bearing is only spinning x amount of revolutions... So now you change out your clutch and it happens to ride on it all the time. So now the tob is spinning basically all the time when you are driving. I don't know the exact amount but the duty cycle on the tob must increase 200 times easy. So imo this is a great mod.

P.s. good luck azure.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:31 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
If the tob rides on the pressure plate all the time it will definitely shorten the life of it. Just think about it.. in normal circustamces the tob only touches when you hit the pedal. So this bearing is only spinning x amount of revolutions... So now you change out your clutch and it happens to ride on it all the time. So now the tob is spinning basically all the time when you are driving. I don't know the exact amount but the duty cycle on the tob must increase 200 times easy. So imo this is a great mod.

P.s. good luck azure.
Hmmmm. +1, but confused.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:53 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Hmmmm. +1, but confused.
Why confused?
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:26 PM   #44
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Got the drivers seat out
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:06 PM   #45
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I took off the OEM pedal arm
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:08 PM   #46
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You have to remove the pin holding the lockout switch arm to the OEM pedal arm
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:12 PM   #47
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Now you can move the OEM pedal off the actuation shaft and put on the MM pedal adjuster.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:18 PM   #48
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You can put little o-ring from the kit then the OEM pedal arm on the actuation shaft. While you have it kind if hanging there, re-attach the lockout arm and stick on the pin. Now you can finger on the bolt to the actuation shaft.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:23 PM   #49
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You can place the bolt, washers and lock nut through the OEM pedal and adjuster plate and tighten. You may need to tighten the actuation shaft bolt some as you go to help hold everything in place. Once you have the bolt and lock but tight on the pedal, then finish tightening the actuation bolt.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:25 PM   #50
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Here is what the pedals look like once completed.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:28 PM   #51
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The problem I'm having now is the clutch is not being disengaged completely when you push the clutch pedal to the floor. I have a double-hook quadrant, so I'm moving it to the other hook now. Hopefully that will fix the problem.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:31 PM   #52
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you also have an adjustable cable you said? if so you can also fine tune the adjustment at the fork.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:38 PM   #53
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you also have an adjustable cable you said? if so you can also fine tune the adjustment at the fork.
It's crazy because as it sits, the TOB is spinning on the pressure plate. If I tighten it, it will bring the TOB closer.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:20 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

It's crazy because as it sits, the TOB is spinning on the pressure plate. If I tighten it, it will bring the TOB closer.
even with the free play mod?
i think its just gonna be a matter of what quadrant it is on to pedal adjustment to cable adjustment.
i dont have any experience with the adjustable pedal kit, so not sure how that ties in.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:31 PM   #55
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So I loosened my cable and moved the cable to the second hook. This will pull the clutch in more.

Attachment 73541
Here's the second hook I'll use



Attachment 73542
I'm gonna need a spring that is ~5" long. Apparently my housing is different than what was in the freeplay mod write-up.
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:51 PM   #56
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Our local Lowe's didn't have a compression spring that would work, so I'm gonna need to go shopping around. I did buy some washers so I could shim up my quadrant.
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:56 PM   #57
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hey azure,
is it possible to use a tension spring if you cant find the right one? maybe drill a small hole on the fork and mount it somewhere near the back? it would probably not be as good as a compression spring, but may do the trick.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:17 PM   #58
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hey azure,
is it possible to use a tension spring if you cant find the right one? maybe drill a small hole on the fork and mount it somewhere near the back? it would probably not be as good as a compression spring, but may do the trick.
I may have to do something like that. That's a good idea.

I found a spring that is long enough, but it may be a little weak in strength. I'll just have to try it.

Attachment 73568
This one is 5.25" long. You gotta be careful not to get something too long or too tight of wind because it has to compress with the clutch pedal movement.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:40 PM   #59
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FAIL

That spring was too small in diameter and would slide through the cable mount hole in the fork.

So here it goes...I "modified" the original spring.

Attachment 73572
I stretched it to ~5.25". Here is a before and after. I'll give this a try.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:55 PM   #60
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Well, the clutch pedal height adjuster is a fail.

The problem is, once you have it installed, there just isn't enough pedal movement to disengage the clutch. I loosened it to its setting for just higher than the brake pedal and no dice. I'm really disappointed. I'm not really sure what else I could do. I took it out and put the OEM pedal back together.

I'm finishing up my freeplay mod, so at least my TOB will be off my pressure plate.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:45 AM   #61
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I completed my freeplay mod on my clutch cable. My rigged spring is working, but I will need to find a replacement that fits correctly. Since I stretched the spring it will gradually lose some compression and possible fail to work as intended. Here is some detail...

I needed to modify the 1/2 CPVC fitting
Attachment 73588Attachment 73589

The spring was a big bigger than 1/2 DIA, so I had to modify
Attachment 73590Attachment 73591

I put the CPVC fitting and spring on the cable mount
Attachment 73592

Here's what it looks like with the cable attached to the clutch fork
Attachment 73593

Here's a peek at the clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing through the inspection window
Attachment 73594

I took a video with a snake video inspection camera. On the video, I move the clutch fork to show the TOB spin and stop spinning on the pressure plate.

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Old 10-26-2012, 09:23 PM   #62
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By the way, my theory of moving the clutch cable to the second hook as stated on THIS post, was incorrect. That actually shortened the clutch movement. I don't think I stated that in my earlier posts.
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:32 AM   #63
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Thanks for putting this up here, help me out a lot. Can i use the freeplay mod on a stock set up with non adjustable cable? And At the moment i know my TOB is touching while the clutch is not depressed so i was wondering if this would solve my problem until i get a new TOB and a adjustable cable kit. Thanks much man and sorry to hear the that the pedal height kit was a fail.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:52 AM   #64
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Thanks for putting this up here, help me out a lot. Can i use the freeplay mod on a stock set up with non adjustable cable? And At the moment i know my TOB is touching while the clutch is not depressed so i was wondering if this would solve my problem until i get a new TOB and a adjustable cable kit. Thanks much man and sorry to hear the that the pedal height kit was a fail.
Thank you!

On the stock setup, the quadrant is spring loaded. In theory, you would think that it would keep the TOB off of the pressure plate. The stock quadrant keeps the cable tight and is supposed to auto adjust itself as the cable wears. That being said, it depends where the cable allows the fork to set whether it will rest on the pressure plate or not. But, I've heard many stang owners talk about the noise of the TOB touching the pressure plate on their stock setup. It's usually a squeak or high-pitched sound. It turns into a wobbly sound when the TOB is nearing failure. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if you can put a spring on the stock setup. I know you have to remove the cable from the fork to slide the spring on the cable. With the quadrant being spring loaded, that might not be as easy as it is with an aftermarket quadrant. Maybe somebody else here can chime in and help with this question.
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:22 PM   #65
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Thank you and i hope someone can help me with it.
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:40 PM   #66
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That's a bummer on the whole clutch adjuster install. I was excited to hear how it would work out, but seems like a bust mod. Very nice job on the write up though.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:19 PM   #67
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That's a bummer on the whole clutch adjuster install. I was excited to hear how it would work out, but seems like a bust mod. Very nice job on the write up though.
Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:55 PM   #68
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Got the spring and the pvc going to try it with stock set up, how long should the pvc piece be?
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:15 PM   #69
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I picked up a couple of springs that were too long, but felt like they were stiff enough to do the job.

Attachment 73773Attachment 73774
I just cut it down to fit my needs.

Attachment 73775
You can see in this pic why you need the CPVC piece. It keeps the spring from slipping off and possibly resting on the cable.

Attachment 73776
Here's a pic of everything assembled with the new spring.

I should have taken a pic of the spring while the clutch pedal is pressed. Basically, the spring compresses down to about 3.25" in size. The spring total length is about 4.7" with the pedal up.

I drove the car around town and so far it's perfect. The clutch starts to grab around 1" off the floor, so it's much easier to drive. Before, the clutch would grab with the pedal nearly up. This pedal is less floppy when it's up, so it feels more like the stock setup. I noticed that the pedal has a much smoother motion now so I suspect the spacers (1/2" washers) are lining up the cable to the quadrant better too. Before the spacers, you could feel the cable catching a little. The only thing I need to do now is go slam some gears. If I get smooth shifts going all out, I feel confident my clutch is disengaging completely.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:32 PM   #70
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Got the spring and the pvc going to try it with stock set up, how long should the pvc piece be?
I used a 1/2" CPVC coupling and attempted to cut it in half. It ended up a little lop-sided, but still worked. After the cut, it was around a 1/2" long. This size fits nicely over the white plastic sheath that the cable comes through. My newest spring fit right in the fitting. You only need it long to keep the spring from slipping off and riding the cable.
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