Clutch Pedal Height Adjustment and Clutch Freeplay Mod - Page 3 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 10-27-2012, 09:18 PM   #71
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Here's a video taken with my iPhone of the freeplay mod. It turned out better than with the snake camera.

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Old 10-27-2012, 09:27 PM   #72
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For anyone worried about longevity i'm still running the same setup completely unchanged. No issues thus far
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:51 PM   #73
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For anyone worried about longevity i'm still running the same setup completely unchanged. No issues thus far
I was surprised I needed a longer sized spring than you had. Now that I think about it, the Cobra's have a T-56, so it makes sense it would be different.

By the way, thanks for the freeplay write-up. It helped me decide to take on the project.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:09 PM   #74
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Thanks for posting this, i am going to attempt this tomorrow in the a.m with my stock set up maybe to at least keep the tob from being engaged slightly at all times.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:13 PM   #75
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Thanks for posting this, i am going to attempt this tomorrow in the a.m with my stock set up maybe to at least keep the tob from being engaged slightly at all times.
Here's a stock cable connection at the tranny. I wonder if there is a spring under the rubber cover or if its just a rubber cover.
Attachment 73866
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:19 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Here's a stock cable connection at the tranny. I wonder if there is a spring under the rubber cover or if its just a rubber cover.
It should just be rubber
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:21 PM   #77
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It should just be rubber
Cool, seems like you could apply your freeplay mod to a stock setup as well.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:31 PM   #78
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Just a dust boot and thats good thinking, and it was a fail got to short of a spring need one the same length you just got! And my clutch fork also has the i guess we can just call it a counterweight or a brace. Thanks for the help i may give it another shot with a longer spring sometime this week when i have time.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:39 PM   #79
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Just a dust boot and thats good thinking, and it was a fail got to short of a spring need one the same length you just got! And my clutch fork also has the i guess we can just call it a counterweight or a brace. Thanks for the help i may give it another shot with a longer spring sometime this week when i have time.
I was disappointed in the selection at all three Lowe's I hit. Menard's had a ton of lengths and strengths (wire thickness) to choose from. It could just be my location. Hope you can find one that will work.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:49 PM   #80
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Me to what did you end up getting ?
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:24 PM   #81
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Okay, my pic was a bad example because I thought you knew which way the cable moves when you push in the clutch. Check out this pic...

This should make more sense
Attachment 72604

When you let the clutch pedal out (lift up), the spring forces the clutch fork away from the pressure plate. This also removes any slack you have in your cable.
The green spring in this picture is ment to push or pull?!
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:41 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopgearGT

The green spring in this picture is ment to push or pull?!
It pushes slight pressure on the fork to keep the tob free
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:54 PM   #83
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Me to what did you end up getting ?
I ended up getting one that was too long so I could cut it to fit perfectly how I wanted.

Handi-Pack 88283 Compression Spring
5/8" x 10-1/2"
Menard's SKU # 2026996
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:49 PM   #84
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Here's a video taken with my iPhone of the freeplay mod. It turned out better than with the snake camera.

ok in this video it looks like when you push it starts to go away but when you let the spring do its job it starts to squeal. am i looking at something wrong?
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:33 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by TopgearGT View Post

ok in this video it looks like when you push it starts to go away but when you let the spring do its job it starts to squeal. am i looking at something wrong?
Yup, it squeaked when I made the video. Hehe! I adjusted it and buttoned it up and had forgot to record another video. I was waiting for someone to bring that up
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:44 PM   #86
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Busted lol, and i will pick up a new spring and keep you up to date with my progress thanks for the help!
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:13 PM   #87
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Thanks! Please keep us updated! this seems to be a huge issue with just about every new edge manual trans! I want it to stop and im defiantly going to try this!
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:39 PM   #88
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I was looking at the video again and what i gather from it is you dont mind if its squeaking as long as its not rubbing up against the pressure plate?
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:59 PM   #89
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I was looking at the video again and what i gather from it is you dont mind if its squeaking as long as its not rubbing up against the pressure plate?
I made the video and didn't really mind the squeaking at the time because I was going to re-adjust the cable. Well, I forgot to take a new video before buttoning up everything a going for a drive. It actually does not squeak or make any noise as it is adjusted now. You can get it pretty close before it will start squeaking and a stiffer compression spring will allow you to get it close without it bouncing when you take your foot off the pedal quickly. I think it was close enough to sorta bounce and squeak occasionally in the video. Good question.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:57 PM   #90
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I do that all the time... You get ancy and forget to take pics because your excited to see how it works!!
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:16 PM   #91
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Ok, after a little over a week of driving, I decided to make an adjustment. I was getting a little more 'nibbling' when you switch gears. Some people call it notchy. This tranny only has ~1700 miles or so. I've felt one with 40000 miles that also had some slight issues (my prev tranny), so I am familiar with the notchy feel or the gear nibbling.

I decided to switch to the thicker - larger spring while I was messing around.

Attachment 74763
I used the 3/4" x 10-1/2" spring, cut to ~4-5/8" in length.

I opened the end I cut just a smidge to get it to fit around the cable mount. This way, I don't have to use the CPVC piece to hold the spring in place.

Attachment 74764
Here's what the difference in diameter looks like compared to my previous spring.

Attachment 74765
And here's what it looks like all buttoned up.

I made another video and will get that on YouTube soon and post a link. This spring feels much better than the last. It feels closer to the stock clutch. But it's not a heavy feel, just more feedback. The clutch now starts to disengage at around 1.5" off the floor and fully disengages around the middle or just before. Not much different than my last setup, but I can tell its fully engaging the clutch with the pedal down on the floor. No nibbling.

Booya!
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:32 AM   #92
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Here's my new video. I made sure the cable was adjusted right for this video.

New clutch freeplay video
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:56 PM   #93
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Nice, glad to see an update and that its working better for you now!
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:51 AM   #94
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Just for my own knowledge, can't you get an adjustable cable with the bolt-and-nut type fastener on the fork side, and adjust that to set preload on the TOB? I know it isn't going to change pedal height, won't it make the freeplay mod obsolete?
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:42 AM   #95
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Just for my own knowledge, can't you get an adjustable cable with the bolt-and-nut type fastener on the fork side, and adjust that to set preload on the TOB? I know it isn't going to change pedal height, won't it make the freeplay mod obsolete?
The primary need for the freeplay mod comes when you replace the stock spring loaded quadrant with an aftermarket quadrant, like Steeda, UPR, etc. Once they make the upgrade and adjust the clutch to a comfortable spot, many notice the pedal is floppy on top. The freeplay mod will help with this because it pushes the fork away (toward the back if the car) from the pressure plate and keeps some tension on the cable.

The freeplay mod does two things; keeps tension on the cable to eliminate a "floppy on top" clutch pedal, and keeps the TOB from riding on the pressure plate that could lead to early TOB failure.

The reason many don't notice that they could use the freeplay mod is that the TOB is spinning with the pressure plate all the time. For so many miles, everything seems hunky-dory. Then your TOB has to be replaced after 30,000 miles. Doh! There is a some debate as to what type of bearing the TOB is, whether it's meant to constantly spin or not. The truth is that the stock TOB will wear out much faster if its spinning constantly. That's why you hear people recommend the Ford Racing TOB. It's much more robust.

Here's a link from eHow that explains the throw out bearing for those of you who aren't exactly sure what the TOB is and how it works with a manual transmission.

What is a throw out bearing?

As for the clutch cable type, neither of the cable types eliminate the TOB from riding on the clutch pressure plate. I would think the stock spring loaded quadrant might be the only thing that could help keep the TOB off of the pressure plate. The was not the case when I had my stock quadrant, cable, and clutch. My TOB was spinning right with the pressure plate. You can check yours easily. All you need to do is jack the car up such that you can get under the car and gain access to the tranny clutch cable dust cover. Remove the dust cover and you can view the pressure plate and TOB through the inspection window. You can use a flashlight and watch the action, like my video linked in this thread. I hope I answered your questions.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:53 AM   #96
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Trust me Azure, i'm all over it. I recently installed a Steeda piece (I work for one of their vendors so I get the hook-up!) And it comes with a different method of attachment on the fork from stock... a bolt and lock nut. What this did for me is allowed adjustment on both sides of the cable; an adjustment on the pedal side of the firewall, and one on the fork. I was able to set a minor pre-load on my fork using that lock nut and it eliminated my TOB noise. Clutch engagement is halfway through pedal travel per my preference, with about an inch of dead travel at the top, so it isn't too tight. My real question concerned the use of the freeplay mod with stock or cables that are non-adjustable at the fork.. Seems Steeda built in their own way of handling freeplay, I think?
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:26 AM   #97
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Trust me Azure, i'm all over it. I recently installed a Steeda piece (I work for one of their vendors so I get the hook-up!) And it comes with a different method of attachment on the fork from stock... a bolt and lock nut. What this did for me is allowed adjustment on both sides of the cable; an adjustment on the pedal side of the firewall, and one on the fork. I was able to set a minor pre-load on my fork using that lock nut and it eliminated my TOB noise. Clutch engagement is halfway through pedal travel per my preference, with about an inch of dead travel at the top, so it isn't too tight. My real question concerned the use of the freeplay mod with stock or cables that are non-adjustable at the fork.. Seems Steeda built in their own way of handling freeplay, I think?
Yup, that could be exactly why they set it up that way. Is this the Steeda adjustable cable you're talking about?

Steeda Adjustable Clutch Cable
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:43 AM   #98
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This is the exact kit I use. Steeda shows a close-up of the threaded cable end.

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-c...d-mustang.html
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:05 PM   #99
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This is the exact kit I use. Steeda shows a close-up of the threaded cable end.

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-c...d-mustang.html
I have a Ford Racing adjustable cable, which has the identical threaded end with adjuster nuts. I don't have a firewall adjuster. I don't have experience with the firewall adjusters. Does it hold the cable in place?
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:13 PM   #100
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I have a Ford Racing adjustable cable, which has the identical threaded end with adjuster nuts. I don't have a firewall adjuster. I don't have experience with the firewall adjusters. Does it hold the cable in place?
It adjusts clutch engagement in relation to pedal travel. Use of a solid aftermarket quadrant removes adjustability, firewall adjuster gives it back. Its basically just pulls the cable further into the engine compartment(by your adjustment), shortening the length of the cable in-cabin.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:18 PM   #101
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It adjusts clutch engagement in relation to pedal travel. Use of a solid aftermarket quadrant removes adjustability, firewall adjuster gives it back. Its basically just pulls the cable further into the engine compartment(by your adjustment), shortening the length of the cable in-cabin.
Ah, so using the firewall adjuster, you can remove the "floppy pedal" affect when you go with an aftermarket quadrant..? And, you make your adjustment at the firewall, then go down and make an adjustment at the cable mount to keep the TOB just shy of touching the pressure plate..?
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:21 PM   #102
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Ah, so using the firewall adjuster, you can remove the "floppy pedal" affect when you go with an aftermarket quadrant..? And, you make your adjustment at the firewall, then go down and make an adjustment at the cable mount to keep the TOB just shy of touching the pressure plate..?
That's what i did. The firewall adjuster's benefit is being manually adjusted, not limited to the factory ratcheting setup. If you like engagement close to the floor you can make it happen, and vice versa.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:26 PM   #103
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That's what i did. The firewall adjuster's benefit is being manually adjusted, not limited to the factory ratcheting setup. If you like engagement close to the floor you can make it happen, and vice versa.
That's cool! The question I have though, is what keeps the cable from moving and letting the clutch fork move? The clutch for can move pretty freely. Is it because the cable is secured at the firewall adjuster and will not move?
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:34 PM   #104
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That's cool! The question I have though, is what keeps the cable from moving and letting the clutch fork move? The clutch for can move pretty freely. Is it because the cable is secured at the firewall adjuster and will not move?
Exactly. You know how the factory cable has a plastic housing with a black rubber bushing where it meets the firewall and bolts up? You remove the rubber bushing and slide the plastic housing into the sleeve of the adjuster, and your adjustments are esentially elongation of the adjuster. I'm sure if I adjusted it too much away from the cabin i'd have to redo the fork nut and bolt, but smooth sailing so far.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:01 PM   #105
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Exactly. You know how the factory cable has a plastic housing with a black rubber bushing where it meets the firewall and bolts up? You remove the rubber bushing and slide the plastic housing into the sleeve of the adjuster, and your adjustments are esentially elongation of the adjuster. I'm sure if I adjusted it too much away from the cabin i'd have to redo the fork nut and bolt, but smooth sailing so far.
Cool! I understand. You just need to make sure to get an adjustable cable AND firewall adjuster and you can adjust your fork position to keep the TOB off of the pressure plate.
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