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Old 11-05-2012, 09:11 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreyw428
Do you have a 6 bolt crank? Cause I'm actually pretty sure I have a new 1 in 1 of the boxes of all my extra parts
Yea the late 0-s to 04s are 6 bolt
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:08 PM   #107
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I didn't know if you had a stock engine or what but I'm almost 90% sure I have 1
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:11 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreyw428
I didn't know if you had a stock engine or what but I'm almost 90% sure I have 1
Yea stock engine, well if u end up having one what would u want for it?
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:57 AM   #109
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I'll look in the afternoon and then I'll pm you and we can setup a deal
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:14 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreyw428
I'll look in the afternoon and then I'll pm you and we can setup a deal
Alright buddy thanks
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:56 PM   #111
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Sorry man but after 2hours of searching I found it, but it ended up being an 8 bolt flywheel, the only 6 bolt I could find was in pretty bad shape cause of rust
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:18 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreyw428
Sorry man but after 2hours of searching I found it, but it ended up being an 8 bolt flywheel, the only 6 bolt I could find was in pretty bad shape cause of rust
Damn thanks anyway man, spec flywheel off Am it is lol the center is replaceable in them
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:31 AM   #113
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Would any of you buy a flywheel from eBay I found one if they get back to me i think it's a 6 bolt manual but I asked, it's like $120 so I'd save $165 to buy it instead of the one from AM
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:05 PM   #114
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Guy has this on Craigslist $120 it's the spec one from AM with he "says" 3k miles on it what do u guys think
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:08 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang
Guy has this on Craigslist $120 it's the spec one from AM with he "says" 3k miles on it what do u guys think
Seems fine to me. It's tough to tell if it has surface rust or not. It's got the replaceable inserts right?
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:28 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF

Seems fine to me. It's tough to tell if it has surface rust or not. It's got the replaceable inserts right?
It should ya
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:29 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang

It should ya
Seems like a good deal to me.
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:42 PM   #118
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How long does someone think I have to replace my pilot bearing cause it started chattering
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:49 PM   #119
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Boom lol thanks to all who helped and gave advice really appreciated it all
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:01 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang
Boom lol thanks to all who helped and gave advice really appreciated it all
Awesome!! Headers are in as well?
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:10 PM   #121
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Right on!
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:31 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF

Awesome!! Headers are in as well?
Yes

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------

Anyone know how to replace the front seal in the rear end where the driveshaft connects
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:33 PM   #123
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Congrats on a job well done
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:24 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang

Yes

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------

Anyone know how to replace the front seal in the rear end where the driveshaft connects
Cool. The pinion seal? If I remember correctly you need to remove the pinion gear and then get a seal puller (basically a hook) and pull the old seal out, then you place the new one in and then hammer it in with like a socket. I've never personally done one but it should go something like that.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:35 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF

Cool. The pinion seal? If I remember correctly you need to remove the pinion gear and then get a seal puller (basically a hook) and pull the old seal out, then you place the new one in and then hammer it in with like a socket. I've never personally done one but it should go something like that.
Yea I didn't think the puller was going to pull the pulley off just needed a socket and ratchet thanks tho bro
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:46 AM   #126
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When you go to put the new seal in make sure you hit as dead on the socket as you can and do light taps, try not to just force it all at once cause if it starts to go crooked it will start to leak either right off the bat or later on down the road
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:03 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreyw428
When you go to put the new seal in make sure you hit as dead on the socket as you can and do light taps, try not to just force it all at once cause if it starts to go crooked it will start to leak either right off the bat or later on down the road
Yea thanks man we put the pully on and fit it tight and it made the seal sung then too the pulley off and tapped around it with a hammer and wood and it did the trick
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:35 AM   #128
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Anyone have the firewall adjuster kit? I have my steeda cable adjusted all the way back and far as u can and have a sh*tty clutch pedal any tips? And I think when dad put the quadrant in its only hooked in one spot I think the kit is a double hook?
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:42 AM   #129
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Originally Posted by Nate98stang
Anyone have the firewall adjuster kit? I have my steeda cable adjusted all the way back and far as u can and have a sh*tty clutch pedal any tips? And I think when dad put the quadrant in its only hooked in one spot I think the kit is a double hook?
And when I say I have the cable adjusted I mean the nut on the end at the trans haven't done anything with the firewall adjuster let but with it adjusted at the Trans I don't wanna get it too tight and snap it
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:13 AM   #130
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What do you mean by sh----- clutch pedal? That isn't very informative. Is it floppy? Binding? I use Steeda's kit and per instructions it is attached to only the hook closest to the firewall. I have the firewall adjuster and it did require quite a bit of adjustment to get right. I also work for a Steeda parts dealer and had a gentleman with a Foxbody he bought having an adjustable cable with no firewall adjuster. He bought just the firewall piece and was good to go. There are two hooks on the quadrant to accommodate for aftermarket OR factory cables.
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:49 AM   #131
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I had to use the hook furthest away from the firewall on my FFRP quadrant. (Not saying Agent is wrong.) For some reason or another, the hook closest to the wall did not disengage the clutch completely when you pushed the clutch pedal to the floor.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:47 AM   #132
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Sorry by sh**ty petal I meant when I first touch the petal It moves very sloppy and easy but after I got about inch to inch and a half it stats to get more stiff but does not feel like it will work correctly my car isn't finished so its still on jack stands I haven't tried moving the car the way the clutch cable is now but I'd rather have more info and get it as close as I can so I don't end up snapping my cable or burning up my new clutch

---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure
I had to use the hook furthest away from the firewall on my FFRP quadrant. (Not saying Agent is wrong.) For some reason or another, the hook closest to the wall did not disengage the clutch completely when you pushed the clutch pedal to the floor.and this is the first aftermarket clutch I have got to install and mess with myself it should be like any other and after u engage it about half way down it so be a but easier to press then when initially pressing
And how long have u had ur kit? Just wondering how well ur cable has held up I've herd so many mixed things with the kit snapping cables
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:01 PM   #133
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You're supposed to have about an inch of dead play at the top of the pedal. The cable should be applying slight tension on the quadrant however. You need to get the car on the ground and see where the clutch engages. Engagement should be 3-4 inches from the floor if memory serves me correctly. Aftermarket clutch cables are usually a little harder to press. The cables usually snap because they are binding somewhere. If you are concerned about this, remove the trans inspection plate and have someone actuate the clutch (CAR OFF!) and make sure the cable doesn't contact anything but it's own insulators or sheathing. Also, attaching the cable on the FURTHEST hook of the quadrant (from the firewall) sometimes causes wear where the cable is riding over the closest hook. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:11 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentOrange
You're supposed to have about an inch of dead play at the top of the pedal. The cable should be applying slight tension on the quadrant however. You need to get the car on the ground and see where the clutch engages. Engagement should be 3-4 inches from the floor if memory serves me correctly. Aftermarket clutch cables are usually a little harder to press. The cables usually snap because they are binding somewhere. If you are concerned about this, remove the trans inspection plate and have someone actuate the clutch (CAR OFF!) and make sure the cable doesn't contact anything but it's own insulators or sheathing. Also, attaching the cable on the FURTHEST hook of the quadrant (from the firewall) sometimes causes wear where the cable is riding over the closest hook. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Thanks ill have to feel more but there maybe close to 2 inches of dead play and it's stff all the way to the floor but doesn't feel right ik that's no informative but best I got
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:23 PM   #135
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Thanks ill have to feel more but there maybe close to 2 inches of dead play and it's stff all the way to the floor but doesn't feel right ik that's no informative but best I got
It's tough because we're talking about feel, not direct measurements, etc. Do you have a firewall adjuster on the car?
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:24 PM   #136
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It's tough because we're talking about feel, not direct measurements, etc. Do you have a firewall adjuster on the car?
Yea that def makes it tough, yea the adjuster is I the car ill get a pic of the cable at the trans then the adjuster on the firewall
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:25 PM   #137
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Old 11-17-2012, 04:16 PM   #138
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Quote:
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Did you have to pry on the clutch fork to set that nut o_O

You should back the nut on the fork off a little and make your adjustments at the firewall... and by a little I mean like halfway down the bolt.
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Old 11-17-2012, 04:24 PM   #139
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Did you have to pry on the clutch fork to set that nut o_O

You should back the nut on the fork off a little and make your adjustments at the firewall... and by a little I mean like halfway down the bolt.
Alright ill give that a shot
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Old 11-17-2012, 04:57 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang View Post
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You have your cable connected to your fork wrong. Check out this post by cliffyk

Hydraulic clutch

Attachment 76405
The cable should be connected like this.

And, yup, many people say the adjustable cables are crap, but I don't know. I have a FFRP adjustable cable, so we'll see how long it lasts. So far, it's been pretty good. I've only had it about two months.
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