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Old 11-17-2012, 05:04 PM   #141
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Mine is adjusted further up the bolt, but not by too much. Then again, I had an issue with my throwout bearing riding the pressure plate.
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:13 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

You have your cable connected to your fork wrong. Check out this post by cliffyk

Hydraulic clutch

The cable should be connected like this.

And, yup, many people say the adjustable cables are crap, but I don't know. I have a FFRP adjustable cable, so we'll see how long it lasts. So far, it's been pretty good. I've only had it about two months.
After I switched it ,have a much better feeling pedal but the cable is incredibly stiff with the clutch in it has no give at all should there be some give to the cable it's self or no? And how can I be sure the throw out isn't rubbing the plate
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:41 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang View Post

After I switched it ,have a much better feeling pedal but the cable is incredibly stiff with the clutch in it has no give at all should there be some give to the cable it's self or no? And how can I be sure the throw out isn't rubbing the plate
Stuff when you have your foot off the pedal or when you have it to the on the floor?

That was why I did the freeplay mod. I wanted to make sure the TOB was not riding on the pressure plate. You can get it off without the mod, but the clutch may not grab until the pedal is nearly all the way up. That is annoying to me anyways. AgentOrange has used an adjustable cable with a firewall adjuster to accomplish this, but he should explain that. I'm not sure I could explain it accurately.
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:58 PM   #144
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Do you have a stage 2 clutch? And is your cable new
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:08 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreyw428
Do you have a stage 2 clutch? And is your cable new
Yes and yes

---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:07 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Stuff when you have your foot off the pedal or when you have it to the on the floor?

That was why I did the freeplay mod. I wanted to make sure the TOB was not riding on the pressure plate. You can get it off without the mod, but the clutch may not grab until the pedal is nearly all the way up. That is annoying to me anyways. AgentOrange has used an adjustable cable with a firewall adjuster to accomplish this, but he should explain that. I'm not sure I could explain it accurately.
Cable is still with the pedal to the floor
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:25 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang View Post

Yes and yes

---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:07 PM ----------



Cable is still with the pedal to the floor
It's normal for it to be tighter since that is when the cable is pulling the fork toward the front of the car - disengaging the clutch. Is your quadrant lined up good with the cable? If its not lined up good with where it goes through the firewall, it could make it a little tougher to move. Plus it won't be as smooth. You can use washers as shims to keep the quadrant lined up during motion.
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:48 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

It's normal for it to be tighter since that is when the cable is pulling the fork toward the front of the car - disengaging the clutch. Is your quadrant lined up good with the cable? If its not lined up good with where it goes through the firewall, it could make it a little tougher to move. Plus it won't be as smooth. You can use washers as shims to keep the quadrant lined up during motion.
We shimmed it some and put in a spacer I'm pretty sure the quadrant is fine
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:05 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by Nate98stang View Post

We shimmed it some and put in a spacer I'm pretty sure the quadrant is fine
Good, maybe it is stiffer because its a stage 2 clutch? They do handle more torque. If that's the case, you'll get used to it pretty quick.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:20 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Good, maybe it is stiffer because its a stage 2 clutch? They do handle more torque. If that's the case, you'll get used to it pretty quick.
Yea I'm just hoping after I get it on the ground it will b fine
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:39 PM   #150
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Your calf muscle will be bigger on your left side but it will ease up a lil bit in time
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:55 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreyw428
Your calf muscle will be bigger on your left side but it will ease up a lil bit in time
Lol alright thanks man
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:41 PM   #152
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Get the car running can't get on into gear ? 3rd and 4th BARLY go in cant get anything else and it makes a week hissing/whining nois when I try to put it in gear and while its in gear
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:10 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang View Post
Get the car running can't get on into gear ? 3rd and 4th BARLY go in cant get anything else and it makes a week hissing/whining nois when I try to put it in gear and while its in gear
Which hook are you on with the quadrant?
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:50 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Which hook are you on with the quadrant?
The first one I think I had it too tight ended up being able to drive it after dad adjusted it some
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:46 AM   #155
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The first one I think I had it too tight ended up being able to drive it after dad adjusted it some
Good. Mine would not work on the first hook (closest to firewall), it would not go into gear at all. Mine has two hooks.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:34 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Good. Mine would not work on the first hook (closest to firewall), it would not go into gear at all. Mine has two hooks.
I think mine has two hooks as well, but I drive it last night it did fine I think it needs tweaked a little more but at one point it wouldn't go into any gear but 3rd and forth I accidentally killed it then I was able to go into all gears ago
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:48 AM   #157
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I think mine has two hooks as well, but I drive it last night it did fine I think it needs tweaked a little more but at one point it wouldn't go into any gear but 3rd and forth I accidentally killed it then I was able to go into all gears ago
Yeah, it sounds like it does need a little adjusting. I recently adjusted mine because it felt like it was "nibbling" the gears, even after being fully warmed up.

I noticed on my stage 1 clutch, if I go on the highway for ~20+ miles, the window of slippage gets really small. By that, I mean if you let out the clutch pedal slowly, it fully grabs much faster. I guess that means it's getting hot..? My stock clutch was like that a little. It's just really noticeable with the stage 1. It's been acting consistently the same every time, so I don't think it has anything to do with the cable.

Keep us up-to-date as it wears in. I ran might easy for about 750 miles before I got up to 4,000RPM. I didn't do any hard launches either. Pretty proud of myself too, becasue I really wanted to let loose and rip through the gears.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:56 PM   #158
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Well now I can't get into any gear idk what's going on, I guess the cable might have adjusted on its own because i don't think I got the adjuster nuts on the end very tight , but I got to about 4 grand in 2nd last night but never shifted at that high I was shifting around 2500-2700
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:17 PM   #159
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Oh and I haven't used the firewall adjuster at all yet really doing all the adjustments at the trans will it be ok if I just fix it where I want it at the trans and don't use the firewall adjuster ?
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:18 PM   #160
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Oh and I haven't used the firewall adjuster at all yet really doing all the adjustments at the trans will it be ok if I just fix it where I want it at the trans and don't use the firewall adjuster ?
I'm not sure about that, to be honest. I've never had the firewall adjuster version.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:28 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

I'm not sure about that, to be honest. I've never had the firewall adjuster version.
I honestly don't see why it would hurt it but I don't know I wish I hadn't have bought the kit and just got a cable and quadrant but its a little late for that lol
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:26 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang

Yes

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------

Anyone know how to replace the front seal in the rear end where the driveshaft connects
What up bro? Haven't read the whole post but unless you know, or have the tools to set back-lash for the pinion to the ring, FORGET IT!!. Problem is that once you do release/ remove the pinion nut, you won't be able to tighten the thing to same poin/ specs. Back lash is the placement of the pinion against the ring to point where it is most efficient. Bad BL could spell more problems. RTV the dang thing and be done with it. It's a simple component that gets more complex as you mess with it; get it? Heck, change the diff oil! It's so thick it won't leak through unless the seal is unnaturally compromised, or totally rotten; haven't heard of one yet though. Option 2 is buy a new crush sleeve, pinion outer bearing and pay $ to have it replaced by a pro.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:34 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

What up bro? Haven't read the whole post but unless you know, or have the tools to set back-lash for the pinion to the ring, FORGET IT!!. Problem is that once you do release/ remove the pinion nut, you won't be able to tighten the thing to same poin/ specs. Back lash is the placement of the pinion against the ring to point where it is most efficient. Bad BL could spell more problems. RTV the dang thing and be done with it. It's a simple component that gets more complex as you mess with it; get it? Heck, change the diff oil! It's so thick it won't leak through unless the seal is unnaturally compromised, or totally rotten; haven't heard of one yet though. Option 2 is buy a new crush sleeve, pinion outer bearing and pay $ to have it replaced by a pro.
Before I get dunked, this is in response to the pinion seal. Thanks.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:22 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang
Anyone have the firewall adjuster kit? I have my steeda cable adjusted all the way back and far as u can and have a sh*tty clutch pedal any tips? And I think when dad put the quadrant in its only hooked in one spot I think the kit is a double hook?
Once again I haven't bothered to read all posts. I have a Steeda kit. If you still can. DO TOSS OUT THE AFTERMARKET TOB and get a FORD RACING HEAVY DUTY TOB. You'll be thankful later.
Installation:
-after installation, loosen (right) fire wall adjuster all the way till it stops clicking. Tighten 1 or 2 clicks up (left)
-disconnect cable from fork
-ensure that cable is properly installed on quadrant or stock quad.
-pull on cable at the tranny end. You should hear the clutch pedal clunk. Do it again to ensure no binding. This also ensures cable isn't wound up.
-ensure cable stop clip is inserted, rounded side down, c clip side up toward tranny.
-install it.
-hand tighten the beveled nut onto the cable end. Cable thru fork of course. Take it as far as you can. No wrenches allowed here.
-follow with the jam nut. Make sure the cable does not turn in the tightening process. "Aghh" finger cramp! All good now, age showing or something. Lol.
-now to the firewall. Tighten 2 clicks, maybe depending on your enthusiasm on the set and jam nut. Lol.
-test the tension on the cable at the tranny. Good an taught, not SAE tight. Test the tension on the fork by simply trying to push it forward and back. No play. That's good! Some play? You know what to do.
-how to test while engine is running: start engine. Now listen. Idiots growling at idle and you have a non ford heavy duty TOB, toss the bearing, it's a brand new piece of whack. If it doesn't growl but is AF, toss it too, it will become whack later. Trust me, I know.
-tip. Avoid adjusting TOB while engine is running. Reason is vibration or something that causes the jam nut to back off.
-final. Do note that the TOB is under Pre-load during idle, and reaches full load when you clutch. Key is to find the sweet spot.
-more notes. The TOB can be faulted for causing increased tranny temps via the input shaft, so quality is important.
-happy repairing.

LAS97GT

---------- Post added at 09:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:12 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Once again I haven't bothered to read all posts. I have a Steeda kit. If you still can. DO TOSS OUT THE AFTERMARKET TOB and get a FORD RACING HEAVY DUTY TOB. You'll be thankful later.
Installation:
-after installation, loosen (right) fire wall adjuster all the way till it stops clicking. Tighten 1 or 2 clicks up (left)
-disconnect cable from fork
-ensure that cable is properly installed on quadrant or stock quad.
-pull on cable at the tranny end. You should hear the clutch pedal clunk. Do it again to ensure no binding. This also ensures cable isn't wound up.
-ensure cable stop clip is inserted, rounded side down, c clip side up toward tranny.
-install it.
-hand tighten the beveled nut onto the cable end. Cable thru fork of course. Take it as far as you can. No wrenches allowed here.
-follow with the jam nut. Make sure the cable does not turn in the tightening process. "Aghh" finger cramp! All good now, age showing or something. Lol.
-now to the firewall. Tighten 2 clicks, maybe depending on your enthusiasm on the set and jam nut. Lol.
-test the tension on the cable at the tranny. Good an taught, not SAE tight. Test the tension on the fork by simply trying to push it forward and back. No play. That's good! Some play? You know what to do.
-how to test while engine is running: start engine. Now listen. Idiots growling at idle and you have a non ford heavy duty TOB, toss the bearing, it's a brand new piece of whack. If it doesn't growl but is AF, toss it too, it will become whack later. Trust me, I know.
-tip. Avoid adjusting TOB while engine is running. Reason is vibration or something that causes the jam nut to back off.
-final. Do note that the TOB is under Pre-load during idle, and reaches full load when you clutch. Key is to find the sweet spot.
-more notes. The TOB can be faulted for causing increased tranny temps via the input shaft, so quality is important.
-happy repairing.

LAS97GT
Holy crap! I wrote a novel. Sorry.

---------- Post added at 09:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:16 PM ----------

Ok dang it! Typo 1: not idiots growling, but if its growling.

---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:20 PM ----------

Another correction: AF means after market. Can't say AM. You might think amer. muscle.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:36 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

What up bro? Haven't read the whole post but unless you know, or have the tools to set back-lash for the pinion to the ring, FORGET IT!!. Problem is that once you do release/ remove the pinion nut, you won't be able to tighten the thing to same poin/ specs. Back lash is the placement of the pinion against the ring to point where it is most efficient. Bad BL could spell more problems. RTV the dang thing and be done with it. It's a simple component that gets more complex as you mess with it; get it? Heck, change the diff oil! It's so thick it won't leak through unless the seal is unnaturally compromised, or totally rotten; haven't heard of one yet though. Option 2 is buy a new crush sleeve, pinion outer bearing and pay $ to have it replaced by a pro.
Well I guess I'll have problems down the road we changed the seal
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:56 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang

Well I guess I'll have problems down the road we changed the seal
He makes it sound worse than it is, just take your time and you'll do just fine.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:33 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF

He makes it sound worse than it is, just take your time and you'll do just fine.
All we did was put the seal in , put the pulley on, and replaced the nut because I got a new one with my seal
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Old 11-21-2012, 03:07 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang

All we did was put the seal in , put the pulley on, and replaced the nut because I got a new one with my seal
Ok. You still need to torque it down to 15 in-lbs of rotational force.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:27 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF

He makes it sound worse than it is, just take your time and you'll do just fine.
JDF, your right. Just pros and cons. Great stuff on your part though. Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:34 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate98stang

All we did was put the seal in , put the pulley on, and replaced the nut because I got a new one with my seal
The problem won't be the seal but more so the ring and pinion. That's what I was getting at. Hope I don't confuse the thread, but I think JDF meant to tighten the pinion nut to 15 inch pounds so you won't alter the back lash. I think he's right, genius.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:45 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDF

Ok. You still need to torque it down to 15 in-lbs of rotational force.
Well we tightened the hell out of it didn't have a torque wrench so idk
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:50 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by Nate98stang

Well we tightened the hell out of it didn't have a torque wrench so idk
That crush sleeve needs to be torqued down correctly or else your pinion bearing is gonna wear prematurely
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:52 PM   #173
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That crush sleeve needs to be torqued down correctly or else your pinion bearing is gonna wear prematurely
Is the crush sleeve the nut? I honestly don't know a thing about it dad just said all we has to do was take it apart and put the seal in? And if I bout a torque wrench will that be ok to use to get it correct?
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:40 PM   #174
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Is the crush sleeve the nut? I honestly don't know a thing about it dad just said all we has to do was take it apart and put the seal in? And if I bout a torque wrench will that be ok to use to get it correct?
The crush sleeve is inside the differential. Here's a good read if you just want to leave it in there. http://forums.corral.net/forums/gene...sh-sleeve.html
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:36 PM   #175
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The crush sleeve is inside the differential. Here's a good read if you just want to leave it in there. http://forums.corral.net/forums/gene...sh-sleeve.html
So from what I gather from that is I should be ok if I torque the but to 125ft/lbs/tq?
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