Centerforce or Mcleod clutch? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-03-2012, 03:24 PM   #1
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Centerforce or Mcleod clutch?

Prepping for my supercharger.

Sick of my King Cobra clutch anyway it's old.

My stang guy says McLeod..

What do y'all think which one?
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:14 PM   #2
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Im actually going to prob go with the Exedy Stage 3 Mach 500. Let me know how you like which ever you go with. Im curious to know because I am not exactly set in my mind with any peticulat brand
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:36 PM   #3
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One of the guys I work with swears by Centerforce. He's put one of their clutches in every single performance car he's had. I've heard a lot of good things about Centerforce but I haven't heard anything about McLeod. However I haven't researched them at all.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:53 PM   #4
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Great nice guys...I'm buying Monday and should be driving Friday....break in another supercharge setback.

McLeod is the polar opposite of my King Cobra.

Think Hionda clutch.
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:58 PM   #5
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I just bought this last Thursday, drop shipped from McLeod in Cali, hopefully it's here by tomorrow. Otherwise car is down for Thanksgiving.

Mcleod 99-00 Mustang RST Street Twin Disc Clutch (10 Spline) - Mcleod - Clutch Kits - Clutches - Transmission - 99-04 Mustang GT
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:09 PM   #6
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Not trying to hi-jack the thread by any means. Just didn't wanna start a repeat thread.
Quick question:
2008 mustang gt. Steeda Q350. 40,xxx miles.

Just bought a month ago. Looking at preventative maintenance.
When should I look at replacing the clutch????

It has the power pack that the Q350 comes with
Steeda CAI and tune
UD pulleys
4:10 gears
Steeda tri short throw
Also added JLT oil separator

I was going to pick up another clutch just to have on hand so that I wouldn't have to wait for a new one to come in(shipping)
Again it has 40,xxx miles.
It's my daily driver and I'm anal about maintenance
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:09 AM   #7
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All good someone should chime in.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelStander
All good someone should chime in.
And also, I plan on doing just a few minor mods.
I have full exhaust minus headers. Gonna add long tubes and possibly cams and ford racing upper intake plenum.
Should be around 400hp at that time.
I'm gonna go with an exedy clutch. But should I go stage 2 or 3?
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350

And also, I plan on doing just a few minor mods.
I have full exhaust minus headers. Gonna add long tubes and possibly cams and ford racing upper intake plenum.
Should be around 400hp at that time.
I'm gonna go with an exedy clutch. But should I go stage 2 or 3?
Here's something to look at. With 400 RWHP stage 3 is a must. You'll need it to transfer an even higher load to the tranny. Next, what's the weight of your stang? At 3700lbs, and 279 I already broke in my stage 2 SPEC a bit more than I expected. Tough, expensive lesson. What matters is the spring load as much as the plate material. I can't tell you how to budget, but see if you can squeeze a light weight fly wheel into the build.

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Old 11-21-2012, 05:23 PM   #10
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Once Steeda did there work on it, came back with 350 at the crank. So not sure which clutch it has in it now. I haven't had it dyno'd. Just bought it about a month ago
The budget isn't an issue. I'd rather do it right the first time and get all necessary parts
Wanna make it as bulletproof as possible...so to speak
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350 View Post
Once Steeda did there work on it, came back with 350 at the crank. So not sure which clutch it has in it now. I haven't had it dyno'd. Just bought it about a month ago
The budget isn't an issue. I'd rather do it right the first time and get all necessary parts
Wanna make it as bulletproof as possible...so to speak
Last dyno I made 279+. Still was hard to move so much weight though. I should have an NA boost soon. I plan on 300+ at the wheels without FI boost. I virtually busted up my brand new traction lock disks in my diff. Switching to Eaton Tru track. Hopes its a good swap.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

sure you dont mean 350 at the wheels?
I haven't had confirmation on that yet. I've read the specs on the Steeda Q350, but don't know if it's wheel hp or to the crank
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:44 PM   #13
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I was told by my cousin that does countless hours of research on mustangs that it's 350rwhp.
Then someone else on here told me it was 350 at the crank.
I've contacted Steeda but haven't received a reply
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:46 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350 View Post
I haven't had confirmation on that yet. I've read the specs on the Steeda Q350, but don't know if it's wheel hp or to the crank
No prob. You'll find out on your first dyno. My livewire SCT went haywire showing 600+ in residual HP, and about 400 instant HP. Wheel HP is pretty much what we quote on the forum.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Last dyno I made 279+. Still was hard to move so much weight though. I should have an NA boost soon. I plan on 300+ at the wheels without FI boost. I virtually busted up my brand new traction lock disks in my diff. Switching to Eaton Tru track. Hopes its a good swap.
Was thinking about going FI, but I know there are many more drivetrain mods I need to do before even thinking about doing that

---------- Post added at 06:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

No prob. You'll find out on your first dyno. My livewire SCT went haywire showing 600+ in residual HP, and about 400 instant HP. Wheel HP is pretty much what we quote on the forum.
Lol that's nuts.

T
I forget who it was. But he specifically said 350 at the crank
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:53 PM   #16
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Happy Thanks Giving to all! Drive your Stangs safely. See you on the next post or thread. Be safe if your driving far.

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:48 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350 View Post
Was thinking about going FI, but I know there are many more drivetrain mods I need to do before even thinking about doing that

---------- Post added at 06:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------



Lol that's nuts.

T
I forget who it was. But he specifically said 350 at the crank
No kidding. I asked Fastlane and they said call SCT. I agree.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Happy Thanks Giving to all! Drive your Stangs safely. See you on the next post or thread. Be safe if your driving far.

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:48 PM ----------



No kidding. I asked Fastlane and they said call SCT. I agree.
Thx. Will do Friday.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:02 PM   #18
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
Happy Thanks Giving to all! Drive your Stangs safely. See you on the next post or thread. Be safe if your driving far.

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:48 PM ----------



No kidding. I asked Fastlane and they said call SCT. I agree.
About your clutch. I don't have the experience but you can call the race techs/my favorite crew; fastlane in NC. Taylor will answer. He won't hold back. He is an experienced tech stuck in admin. Here's the number: 919-989-9377. They are closed till next monday though. He recommended SPEC for my car. He makes recommendations depending on your upgrades and specs. Make sure you have the details at hand. Most important have the weight of your car ready. He is on point. I dropped almost 6K in that shop because of the professionalism of the team. Stang owners travel multi state to get their Stangs worked on. Oh yeah, the only work on Stangs by the way. Dang yard is littered with GT500s. No kidding. Am gonna miss them when I leave NC.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

About your clutch. I don't have the experience but you can call the race techs/my favorite crew; fastlane in NC. Taylor will answer. He won't hold back. He is an experienced tech stuck in admin. Here's the number: 919-989-9413. They are closed till next monday though. He recommended SPEC for my car. He makes recommendations depending on your upgrades and specs. Make sure you have the details at hand. Most important have the weight of your car ready. He is on point. I dropped almost 6K in that shop because of the professionalism of the team. Stang owners travel multi state to get their Stangs worked on. Oh yeah, the only work on Stangs by the way. Dang yard is littered with GT500s. No kidding. Am gonna miss them when I leave NC.
Lol haha that's awesome. I'll do that on Monday.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
Happy Thanks Giving to all! Drive your Stangs safely. See you on the next post or thread. Be safe if your driving far.

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:48 PM ----------



No kidding. I asked Fastlane and they said call SCT. I agree.
About your clutch. I don't have the experience but you can call the race techs/my favorite crew; fastlane in NC. Taylor will answer. He won't hold back. He is an experienced tech stuck in admin. Here's the number: 919-989-9377. They are closed till next monday though. He recommended SPEC for my car. He makes recommendations depending on your upgrades and specs. Make sure you have the details at hand. Most important have the weight of your car ready. He is on point. I dropped almost 6K in that shop because of the professionalism of the team. Stang owners travel multi state to get their Stangs worked on. Oh yeah, the only work on Stangs by the way. Dang yard is littered with GT500s. No kidding. Am gonna miss them when I leave NC.

---------- Post added at 08:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16 PM ----------

Correction to the Fastlane number: 919-989-9377
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:19 PM   #21
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Got it. Putting it in my phone now. Thx
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350 View Post
I was told by my cousin that does countless hours of research on mustangs that it's 350rwhp.
Then someone else on here told me it was 350 at the crank.
I've contacted Steeda but haven't received a reply
Quote:
Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350 View Post
Was thinking about going FI, but I know there are many more drivetrain mods I need to do before even thinking about doing that

---------- Post added at 06:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------



Lol that's nuts.

T
I forget who it was. But he specifically said 350 at the crank
Lets find out. What are your mods? State everything from engine crank to rear diff.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:34 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Lets find out. What are your mods? State everything from engine crank to rear diff.
It's the Steeda Q350.
4.6l v8 (obviously lol)
Steeda CAI & tune.
UD pulleys
Motion delete plates
4:10 gears
I saw that I do have exhaust upgrade. But can't tell if it's x or h pipes. Think h pipe cause its not raspy and is actually kinda calm sounding.
Stock headers
Steeda axle back

---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Lets find out. What are your mods? State everything from engine crank to rear diff.
I can't have the car hooked up to anything cause I don't have the tuner. And Steeda told me that if anyone hooks up anything and flashes the car, it'll kill my tune and disable the car. So then they'd have to send me a custom tune/tuner.
So I'm kinda stuck on what to do about that also
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:35 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350 View Post
It's the Steeda Q350.
4.6l v8 (obviously lol)
Steeda CAI & tune.
UD pulleys
Motion delete plates
4:10 gears
I saw that I do have exhaust upgrade. But can't tell if it's x or h pipes. Think h pipe cause its not raspy and is actually kinda calm sounding.
Stock headers
Steeda axle back
Great!! Here's mine so you can see where you are headed.

Ok folks, the verdict is in from the dyno:
Specs:
-1997 Ford Mustang GT Convertible.
-SOHC 2004 Ford Mustang GT PI production heads (new). 49.3 cci increasing comp to 10:1.
-Cams, stock PI.
-Engine block, Stock Romeo. Includes OEM pistons. Piston walls still has OEM hash marks on them.
-Intake, stock OEM PI 2004.
-TB, Edelbrock/BBK.
-Steeda UDPs
-SPEC lightweight flywheel.

Putting the power to the rubber:
-SPEC clutch stage II. 500mi break in done.
-T45 tranny with royal purple blood.
-OEM drive shaft; rusty to the bone.
-Ford racing differential gears complete rebuild with 3:73s gears and carbon fiber traction lock disks to transmit power to both wheels evenly.
-Axels, replaced stock 14 yr olds, worn out splined with Mosers.

Wheels and rubber:
-Nitto T555, 285s, nough said, wrapped around a pair of 95 style Bullit 18 inchers.

Where I started:
-Dyno with stock heads with about 90k on them, and SCT can tune was 185 RWHP.

Result:
New dyno with custom tune from Fastlane Mortorsports 289 RWHP. 93 Octane pump gas.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Great!! Here's mine so you can see where you are headed.

Ok folks, the verdict is in from the dyno:
Specs:
-1997 Ford Mustang GT Convertible.
-SOHC 2004 Ford Mustang GT PI production heads (new). 49.3 cci increasing comp to 10:1.
-Cams, stock PI.
-Engine block, Stock Romeo. Includes OEM pistons. Piston walls still has OEM hash marks on them.
-Intake, stock OEM PI 2004.
-TB, Edelbrock/BBK.
-Steeda UDPs
-SPEC lightweight flywheel.

Putting the power to the rubber:
-SPEC clutch stage II. 500mi break in done.
-T45 tranny with royal purple blood.
-OEM drive shaft; rusty to the bone.
-Ford racing differential gears complete rebuild with 3:73s gears and carbon fiber traction lock disks to transmit power to both wheels evenly.
-Axels, replaced stock 14 yr olds, worn out splined with Mosers.

Wheels and rubber:
-Nitto T555, 285s, nough said, wrapped around a pair of 95 style Bullit 18 inchers.

Where I started:
-Dyno with stock heads with about 90k on them, and SCT can tune was 185 RWHP.

Result:
New dyno with custom tune from Fastlane Mortorsports 289 RWHP. 93 Octane pump gas.
Only run 93 pump from shell
I run royal purple also.
Nitto 275s on 18"
2008 gt 40,000 miles.
Also has Steeda short throw
As far as the rest, I'd have to take it to a shop and have them do a run down on everything.

---------- Post added at 07:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Great!! Here's mine so you can see where you are headed.

Ok folks, the verdict is in from the dyno:
Specs:
-1997 Ford Mustang GT Convertible.
-SOHC 2004 Ford Mustang GT PI production heads (new). 49.3 cci increasing comp to 10:1.
-Cams, stock PI.
-Engine block, Stock Romeo. Includes OEM pistons. Piston walls still has OEM hash marks on them.
-Intake, stock OEM PI 2004.
-TB, Edelbrock/BBK.
-Steeda UDPs
-SPEC lightweight flywheel.

Putting the power to the rubber:
-SPEC clutch stage II. 500mi break in done.
-T45 tranny with royal purple blood.
-OEM drive shaft; rusty to the bone.
-Ford racing differential gears complete rebuild with 3:73s gears and carbon fiber traction lock disks to transmit power to both wheels evenly.
-Axels, replaced stock 14 yr olds, worn out splined with Mosers.

Wheels and rubber:
-Nitto T555, 285s, nough said, wrapped around a pair of 95 style Bullit 18 inchers.

Where I started:
-Dyno with stock heads with about 90k on them, and SCT can tune was 185 RWHP.

Result:
New dyno with custom tune from Fastlane Mortorsports 289 RWHP. 93 Octane pump gas.
It has plenty of power.
It'll break the wheels loose at a roll in 1-2 gears.
I just want that lil extra uumpphhh
But I wanna start with the weakest link first
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:49 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350 View Post
Only run 93 pump from shell
I run royal purple also.
Nitto 275s on 18"
2008 gt 40,000 miles.
Also has Steeda short throw
As far as the rest, I'd have to take it to a shop and have them do a run down on everything.

---------- Post added at 07:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------



It has plenty of power.
It'll break the wheels loose at a roll in 1-2 gears.
I just want that lil extra uumpphhh
But I wanna start with the weakest link first
Alright!! I am convinced that you have 350 at the wheels!! Lets use that as a start point. gotta start somewhere. If you can spin the r-end in 1st and 2nd you have 350 at the wheels. I can't spin in 2nd. Though, don't forget your running 4:10 rear end. I have 3:73. Still, it takes much to do a spin in 2nd. I can do it but depends on my diff. I should be running higher than 289; bad diff to boot.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Alright!! I am convinced that you have 350 at the wheels!! Lets use that as a start point. gotta start somewhere. If you can spin the r-end in 1st and 2nd you have 350 at the wheels. I can't spin in 2nd. Though, don't forget your running 4:10 rear end. I have 3:73. Still, it takes much to do a spin in 2nd. I can do it but depends on my diff. I should be running higher than 289; bad diff to boot.
Yeah I know gears add phantom hp.
She is a tamed beast.
The clutch I want, I want it to be good and driveable for what I have, but also I want to be able to keep it in when I do a few upgrades to add another 50hp or so
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:09 PM   #28
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Lightbulb

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Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350 View Post
Yeah I know gears add phantom hp.
She is a tamed beast.
The clutch I want, I want it to be good and driveable for what I have, but also I want to be able to keep it in when I do a few upgrades to add another 50hp or so
Actually they don't. only speed. Remember that.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:12 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Actually they don't. only speed. Remember that.
So when I got my ticket 2 weeks ago for doing 102 in a 60, my speedometer musta been reading????? I wasn't watching the speedometer lol

---------- Post added at 08:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:10 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 08SteedaQ350

So when I got my ticket 2 weeks ago for doing 102 in a 60, my speedometer musta been reading????? I wasn't watching the speedometer lol
Unless the car was originally tuned for 4:10 gears
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:19 PM   #30
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Actually, 4:10s don't add HP, just how quickly you plant it to the pavement. Remember that. For my stang I used SPEC for the following reason:
-limited to zero slip
-warranty
-guranteed for street and strip
-change clutch disk only when worn.
-easy clutch burn in

I have seen a slew of SPEC clutch bad reps, but I found out the following:

-SPEC Through out bearings are useless. ford heavy duty TOBs are the way to go. 9 out of every ten TOBs are useless.
-reliability is awesome at launch
-no shudder. If you have shudder, think rear-end up to clutch.
-pretty looking blue
-who cares, I try to break it so I can claim the warranty. working on it. LOL
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:29 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Actually, 4:10s don't add HP, just how quickly you plant it to the pavement. Remember that. For my stang I used SPEC for the following reason:
-limited to zero slip
-warranty
-guranteed for street and strip
-change clutch disk only when worn.
-easy clutch burn in

I have seen a slew of SPEC clutch bad reps, but I found out the following:

-SPEC Through out bearings are useless. ford heavy duty TOBs are the way to go. 9 out of every ten TOBs are useless.
-reliability is awesome at launch
-no shudder. If you have shudder, think rear-end up to clutch.
-pretty looking blue
-who cares, I try to break it so I can claim the warranty. working on it. LOL
Lmao yeah I have seen that ford tob is the way to go.
I guess it would be a good thing to get it dyno'd before I do any upgrades. That way I know where I'm at and know which way to go.

---------- Post added at 08:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:24 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Actually, 4:10s don't add HP, just how quickly you plant it to the pavement. Remember that. For my stang I used SPEC for the following reason:
-limited to zero slip
-warranty
-guranteed for street and strip
-change clutch disk only when worn.
-easy clutch burn in

I have seen a slew of SPEC clutch bad reps, but I found out the following:

-SPEC Through out bearings are useless. ford heavy duty TOBs are the way to go. 9 out of every ten TOBs are useless.
-reliability is awesome at launch
-no shudder. If you have shudder, think rear-end up to clutch.
-pretty looking blue
-who cares, I try to break it so I can claim the warranty. working on it. LOL
I will say this.
4:10s make 1st gear very short. But also it launches like a beast. And when I hit 2nd gear, it doesn't chirp, it spins the wheels. And it'll chirp 3rd too.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:06 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT
Actually, 4:10s don't add HP, just how quickly you plant it to the pavement. Remember that. For my stang I used SPEC for the following reason:
-limited to zero slip
-warranty
-guranteed for street and strip
-change clutch disk only when worn.
-easy clutch burn in

I have seen a slew of SPEC clutch bad reps, but I found out the following:

-SPEC Through out bearings are useless. ford heavy duty TOBs are the way to go. 9 out of every ten TOBs are useless.
-reliability is awesome at launch
-no shudder. If you have shudder, think rear-end up to clutch.
-pretty looking blue
-who cares, I try to break it so I can claim the warranty. working on it. LOL
I'm looking at either the
Exedy stage 2 or 3 clutch &
Exedy lightweight flywheel
Both from American Muscle

But I can't find the Ford Racing throw out bearing anywhere. I can find it for the 99-04. But not the 05-09
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:03 AM   #33
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McLeod in da house.
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:26 PM   #34
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Dang they sent the 11", I need the 10.4.

We have a 11" Cobra Aluminum flywheel I am going to switch to.

Extra dough but it will be worth it.
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:10 PM   #35
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...anyone know why I can use a aluminum Terminator flywheel with my 4.6 Gt engine?
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