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Old 12-05-2012, 12:29 PM   #106
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So this is What I came up with... 1st is the master cylinder doesn't get any current also. 2nd shouldn't there be a current here? 3rd is there grounds like this on you guys mustangs by the battery? I think they did an engine swap. And forgot to connect something.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:05 PM   #107
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So check this out. I stripped off the weathering on the right side above the tire and idk came up with this not being plugged in to anything.... But there's nothig to plug in???
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:08 PM   #108
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So check this out. I stripped off the weathering on the right side above the tire and idk came up with this not being plugged in to anything.... But there's nothig to plug in???
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:11 PM   #109
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So this is What I came up with... 1st is the master cylinder doesn't get any current also. 2nd shouldn't there be a current here? 3rd is there grounds like this on you guys mustangs by the battery? I think they did an engine swap. And forgot to connect something.
No elec. current either.
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:31 PM   #110
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It should...
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:36 PM   #111
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Yeah I know. There should be a ground disconnected.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:33 PM   #112
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Yeah I know. There should be a ground disconnected.
I don't know man I don't know nothin can't even figure out what's wrong with mine any more so I'm going on strike sorry...
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:41 PM   #113
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Wow...... 1996mustang might have a clue
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #114
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Wow...... 1996mustang might have a clue
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:34 PM   #115
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Where is this located so i can have an idea on mine. As to everything else sorry im slow responding work takes up my time though luckily today is my day off so i should have ideas later on when im fully awake. Imma trace rhe common grounds and splices for the iat on the intake the coolant sensor the reservoir sensor and that other connector later in the morning. If all of them have a common connecter like the one u point out could be alot more simpler (hopefully) to fix ur issues

---------- Post added at 12:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 AM ----------

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I don't know man I don't know nothin can't even figure out what's wrong with mine any more so I'm going on strike sorry...
Btw never give up it may be disappointment and frustration at times but u have a bunch of knowledgeable gentlemen and ladies willing to help u find answers as we would expect from others opinions or advise. We are afterall a community of stang lovers and love to enjoy our vehicles
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:03 AM   #116
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It's ok I understand. And it's located above the plastic on the passenger side tire.

---------- Post added at 09:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:01 AM ----------

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Where is this located so i can have an idea on mine. As to everything else sorry im slow responding work takes up my time though luckily today is my day off so i should have ideas later on when im fully awake. Imma trace rhe common grounds and splices for the iat on the intake the coolant sensor the reservoir sensor and that other connector later in the morning. If all of them have a common connecter like the one u point out could be alot more simpler (hopefully) to fix ur issues

---------- Post added at 12:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 AM ----------



Btw never give up it may be disappointment and frustration at times but u have a bunch of knowledgeable gentlemen and ladies willing to help u find answers as we would expect from others opinions or advise. We are afterall a community of stang lovers and love to enjoy our vehicles
+1^ hey I'll have you guys know 1996 mustang has helped me quite a lot when I feel like I'm about to just throw my junk in the garbage lol.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:59 AM   #117
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Just out of curiousity, does it look like the ground cable has been replaced? Everything your telling us falls into a intermidate ground somewhere. The car stalling, some of the system having power and the rest not, and the DLC having no communication. You could get a harness off another GT from your local pullapart pretty cheap. This way you also know EXACTLY what came off of where and how it goes back. If it was me I'd run another body ground from the battery and see what happens.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:13 AM   #118
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Just out of curiousity, does it look like the ground cable has been replaced? Everything your telling us falls into a intermidate ground somewhere. The car stalling, some of the system having power and the rest not, and the DLC having no communication. You could get a harness off another GT from your local pullapart pretty cheap. This way you also know EXACTLY what came off of where and how it goes back. If it was me I'd run another body ground from the battery and see what happens.
I'm not really sure if it has been replaced. I've been looking for another harness somewhere and everywhere but the closest one ive found was 120 bucks used and I don't plan to pay that much for a used harness. And what do you mean run another body ground from the batt? Like to the parts that get no electricity?
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:23 AM   #119
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No run a wire from the negative terminal and ground it to the body and see what happens. Check every single ground point on the car from the battery to the core support, engine and look where the ECM is at and see if its grounded properly. Kinda like a pioneer radio, if the main ground isn't hooked up it will ground thru the antenna. If you got a ground disconnected somewhere, it'll find another ground to work off of. If the body ground is bad it'll ground thru the engine. and so forth. So check ALL of them. And last make sure your cables are tight and clean. Even a bad diode in the altenator will throw our cars off cause of the "dirty" voltage.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:24 PM   #120
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No run a wire from the negative terminal and ground it to the body and see what happens. Check every single ground point on the car from the battery to the core support, engine and look where the ECM is at and see if its grounded properly. Kinda like a pioneer radio, if the main ground isn't hooked up it will ground thru the antenna. If you got a ground disconnected somewhere, it'll find another ground to work off of. If the body ground is bad it'll ground thru the engine. and so forth. So check ALL of them. And last make sure your cables are tight and clean. Even a bad diode in the altenator will throw our cars off cause of the "dirty" voltage.
Second that as stated before it is a bad ground on that section of ECM
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:57 PM   #121
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Where is this located so i can have an idea on mine. As to everything else sorry im slow responding work takes up my time though luckily today is my day off so i should have ideas later on when im fully awake. Imma trace rhe common grounds and splices for the iat on the intake the coolant sensor the reservoir sensor and that other connector later in the morning. If all of them have a common connecter like the one u point out could be alot more simpler (hopefully) to fix ur issues

---------- Post added at 12:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 AM ----------



Btw never give up it may be disappointment and frustration at times but u have a bunch of knowledgeable gentlemen and ladies willing to help u find answers as we would expect from others opinions or advise. We are afterall a community of stang lovers and love to enjoy our vehicles
You say never give up and people have good knowledge and are helpful but I'm not experiencing none of this! It's just seems no one can or wants to help? I just don't know what to do anymore???
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:11 PM   #122
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You say never give up and people have good knowledge and are helpful but I'm not experiencing none of this! It's just seems no one can or wants to help? I just don't know what to do anymore???
The key to it is patience.....
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:13 PM   #123
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The key to it is patience.....
Well man maybe I should just start another post or maybe you can help me I'm dying here!!!
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:42 PM   #124
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Take a pic of it please. Do you guys know where all ground wires are?? I'm sure a ground wire is bad because some things aren't getting any current like this here. If ya have a chance could ya check if it does have current.
shown pic is the passenger side coolant sensor.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:07 PM   #125
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Israel98! Go buy a repair manual for your car, read it cover to cover then come back. follow all your wiring harnesses; 1 only, split to two at the engine compartment. Can't solve your engine issues til you know what jerry rigging was done to your ride. Also, buy a dang multimeter and get cracking. Right now I hear, and smell LEMONS! I've never been p+(()# before, but I am now. Can't believe your still on the same issue.
When I first read your post I thought the same, but seemingly we are still here, so here goes.

1-DIY means "Do It Yourself", I am going to impart it on you.
2-Disconnect your entire engine harness to include the ones in the trunk.
3-Find all your common grounds using a multimeter (buzzer or Ohms).
4- Verify that all your common grounds are functioning.
5-Connect to your hot wire (red batt terminal) and verify connectivity to all hot terminals.
6-Now cross them. Hook up to hot wire, and test against a ground. Got a beep or high ohms readings? guess what?
7- Untangle the mess. begin with standard ground elimination solutions. The key is hot is hot and ground is ground.
8-Most common ground cross over is at the O2 sensors when a cheapo is willing to sacrifice the performance of the engine and more to get the vehicle moving.
9- ID any taped up wiring. do a color code match.
10- Check your PCM at the kick panel on the driver side of the vehicle.
11-check the evap cannister connections.
12. check for voltage and spark at the coils

Story: There was a person on this forum once that spent a decade (10 yrs) trying to get his mustang started. He never did the hard work to figure out the problem. Get it? I could get tossed off the forum for this but I strongly believe you can improve on your situation by doing the above and a bit more.

Las97GT
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:31 PM   #126
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Israel98! Go buy a repair manual for your car, read it cover to cover then come back. follow all your wiring harnesses; 1 only, split to two at the engine compartment. Can't solve your engine issues til you know what jerry rigging was done to your ride. Also, buy a dang multimeter and get cracking. Right now I hear, and smell LEMONS! I've never been p+(()# before, but I am now. Can't believe your still on the same issue.
When I first read your post I thought the same, but seemingly we are still here, so here goes.

1-DIY means "Do It Yourself", I am going to impart it on you.
2-Disconnect your entire engine harness to include the ones in the trunk.
3-Find all your common grounds using a multimeter (buzzer or Ohms).
4- Verify that all your common grounds are functioning.
5-Connect to your hot wire (red batt terminal) and verify connectivity to all hot terminals.
6-Now cross them. Hook up to hot wire, and test against a ground. Got a beep or high ohms readings? guess what?
7- Untangle the mess. begin with standard ground elimination solutions. The key is hot is hot and ground is ground.
8-Most common ground cross over is at the O2 sensors when a cheapo is willing to sacrifice the performance of the engine and more to get the vehicle moving.
9- ID any taped up wiring. do a color code match.
10- Check your PCM at the kick panel on the driver side of the vehicle.
11-check the evap cannister connections.
12. check for voltage and spark at the coils

Story: There was a person on this forum once that spent a decade (10 yrs) trying to get his mustang started. He never did the hard work to figure out the problem. Get it? I could get tossed off the forum for this but I strongly believe you can improve on your situation by doing the above and a bit more.

Las97GT
Also, I do need you to note that each and every response to your threads/post is an act of help. We absolutley cannot do the hands on work; you do. Now, do disassemble your wiring harness completely and beginto trouble shoot it. Break it down to at least 5 components: Lights, ignition, charging system, engine operation, and interior systems. Add engine sensors for good measure. Last but not least, consider that your engine timing may be so way off that you won't get the incorporated safety systems to function. this means you may have to pull your engine timing cover and check your timing. Here is the short way to verify: remove your valve covers. with the engine off, manually crank your engine over at the crank with a 19mm socket and wrench. watch the cam sprockets till you see the arrow indicator for cylinder head TDC, keep cranking till it dissapears and compression drops- your C-head tdc marking should be pointed down(out of visibility), and our crank shaft should be at TDC in line with the markings on the timing cover. Come back when your done. DIY is tough. We all learned this way. Come back with what you found out in detail.

---------- Post added at 09:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 PM ----------

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Old 12-07-2012, 08:38 PM   #127
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Yeah the eliminators. My light is off and I have straight pipes. It has no converters.
O2s are tuned out. down stream are. up stream are hot wired.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:38 PM   #128
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Israel98! Go buy a repair manual for your car, read it cover to cover then come back. follow all your wiring harnesses; 1 only, split to two at the engine compartment. Can't solve your engine issues til you know what jerry rigging was done to your ride. Also, buy a dang multimeter and get cracking. Right now I hear, and smell LEMONS! I've never been p+(()# before, but I am now. Can't believe your still on the same issue.
When I first read your post I thought the same, but seemingly we are still here, so here goes.

1-DIY means "Do It Yourself", I am going to impart it on you.
2-Disconnect your entire engine harness to include the ones in the trunk.
3-Find all your common grounds using a multimeter (buzzer or Ohms).
4- Verify that all your common grounds are functioning.
5-Connect to your hot wire (red batt terminal) and verify connectivity to all hot terminals.
6-Now cross them. Hook up to hot wire, and test against a ground. Got a beep or high ohms readings? guess what?
7- Untangle the mess. begin with standard ground elimination solutions. The key is hot is hot ground is ground.
8-Most common ground cross over is at the O2 sensors when a cheapo is willing to sacrifice the performance of the engine and more to get the vehicle moving.
9- ID any taped up wiring. do a color code match.
10- Check your PCM at the kick panel on the driver side of the vehicle.
11-check the evap cannister connections.
12. check for voltage and spark at the coils

Story: There was a person on this forum once that spent a decade (10 yrs) trying to get his mustang started. He never did the hard work to figure out the problem. Get it? I could get tossed off the forum for this but I strongly believe you can improve on your situation by doing the above and a bit more.

Las97GT
One thing ima tell you is I do it myself "common sense" And most of the things you listed here I've done I'm no idiot. Your story is pointless because my mustang starts and because its obvious there's work that has to be done to figure out this or any other problem that anyone has... You're no help..... Pointless to even reply to this thread....
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:52 PM   #129
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Yeah it can't ever get on so I'm just worried tht when there is something wrong with it I might not kno the problem. I think there might be something wrong with it now but I'm not sure idk where to start
Hook up a code reader and see what happens.

---------- Post added at 09:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ----------

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I think the egr valve or the idle control is bad or maybe the maf but I already tried like leaving the gas cap off and doing other operations to see if it turned on but no.
EGR valve systems has only to do with exhaust gas recirculation, nothing else. Its purely emissions. Leaving the fuel tank cap off won't change anything. the tank has a pressure release valve that captures or prevents vapor release.

---------- Post added at 09:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 PM ----------

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The scanner couldn't read anything. After I'm off of work tommorow I'll take a look at the diagram and start from there. Do you happen to have a URL or something?
It is extremely rare to never have occured that your entire wiring system has been compromised. Get a multimeter. Learn to use it and become a DIY.

---------- Post added at 09:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:45 PM ----------

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The scanner couldn't read anything. After I'm off of work tommorow I'll take a look at the diagram and start from there. Do you happen to have a URL or something?
did you remember to turn the iginition key to the on position to complete the connection? scanners cannot read without the key in the on position.

---------- Post added at 09:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 PM ----------

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Wow yeah it did. Where do I find that fuse box? And I noticed I don't have a cigarette lighter? There's just the hole were it used to be....
the PCM should not be affected by a malfunctioning accesory outlet. go back to the drawing board. If that were true cars would fail a whole lot. they dont, at least not when I forget to plug my cigarette ligher back in.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:13 PM   #130
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here is the pin views of the pcm. im tryin to find where all the wires go as i go along all data, but all data doesnt help much lol. but u can see where the input from the pcm to the dlc connector are id start there and look at the conditions of the pins both on the pcm and the pcm connector.

worst case scenario is the computer took a dump and is bad, but like i said worst case scenario. if u wanna check the pcm to see its bad, id go to a junkyard and get a pcm, normally where i am they are 16 bucks to get one, and u can see if it works or not, but it is worst case scenario.

btw pretty sweet mustang u got there, deff puts mine to shame lol
There is not horse power without electricity! Same as there is no education in the second kick from a mule! This Hog ain't gonna slaughter itself. Israel98, you got some work to do man. We can't help you if your not car smart enough. Your problem is not a newbie problem. its advanced.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:21 PM   #131
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One thing ima tell you is I do it myself "common sense" And most of the things you listed here I've done I'm no idiot. Your story is pointless because my mustang starts and because its obvious there's work that has to be done to figure out this or any other problem that anyone has... You're no help..... Pointless to even reply to this thread....
Precisely! Your mustang starts. But you want to get it back to stock config. the same rule applies, get a repair manual and start trouble shooting. My buds are doing their best to assist you to the point of frustration. Buy a mutimeter or buy a Chevy!
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:24 PM   #132
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Precisely! Your mustang starts. But you want to get it back to stock config. the same rule applies, get a repair manual and start trouble shooting. My buds are doing their best to assist you to the point of frustration. Buy a mutimeter or buy a Chevy!
Cool
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:31 PM   #133
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[QUOTE=Israel98;1375429]So when I first bought my mustang it had dumped exhaust system. And the check engine was off. I thought it had the engine delete wires that replace the converters but doesn't. How do I fix this problem? I disconnected the maf to see if it would turn on but no.[/Q

check your PM
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