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Old 11-13-2012, 07:32 PM   #1
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I WANT THE TRUTH!

I want this thread to be the be all end all on the truth about nitrous. I Want facts not opinions and different cases to back up the knowledge people have gained over the years from there experiences with nitrous! Please enlighten me! I just bought a kit and its already up for sale because im scared! So please enlighten everyone with the cold hard facts!
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:33 PM   #2
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What's the question?
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:39 PM   #3
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Its all in the tune!!!!!
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Venomouz831
Its all in the tune!!!!!
If the question is durability, then yes, the prevention of detonation is in the tune. Any time you juice you are stressing the internals, though. Boost in any of it's methods of creation never makes a motor last longer.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:55 PM   #5
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Just don't use it often I guess because nos is like any other FI they put stress on you're engine.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentOrange View Post
If the question is durability, then yes, the prevention of detonation is in the tune. Any time you juice you are stressing the internals, though. Boost in any of it's methods of creation never makes a motor last longer.
So are you saying nitrous is no worse then any other type of boost? My thoughts are it might be more detrimental then supercharging but im only using it ath the track maybe one every couple months. Am i right in believing this?

---------- Post added at 05:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:56 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentOrange View Post
What's the question?
no question... just facts. What all do you know?!
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:00 PM   #7
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How Does Nitrous Oxide Work?

There are three points. First, nitrous oxide is comprised of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). When the nitrous oxide is heated to approximately 572oF (on compression stroke), it breaks down and release extra oxygen, However, it is not this oxygen alone which creates additional power, but the ability of this oxygen to burn more fuel. By burning more fuel, higher cylinder pressures are created and this is where most of the additional power is realized. Secondly, as pressurized nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it changes from a liquid to a gas (boils). This boiling affect reduces the temperature of the nitrous to a minus .127 Degrees F. This "cooling affect" in turn significantly reduces intake charge temperatures by approximately 60-75 Degrees F. This also helps create additional power. A general rule of thumb: For every 10 Degrees F. reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realized. Example: A 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 Degrees F, would gain approximately 25 HP on the cooling affect alone. The third point, the nitrogen that was also released during the compression stroke performs an important role. Nitrogen acts to "buff or dampen" the increased cylinder pressures leading to a controlled combustion process

Dry:

The most misunderstood is the “Dry” type of system.

A “dry” nitrous system simply means that the fuel required to make additional power with nitrous will be introduced through the fuel injectors (remember, fuel makes power, nitrous simply lets you burn more of it). This keeps the upper intake dry of fuel. We accomplish this by two methods. First, is to increase the pressure to the injectors by applying nitrous pressure from the solenoid assembly when the system is activated. This causes an increase in fuel flow just like turning up the pressure on your garden hose from 1/2 to full. The second way we can add the required fuel is to increase the time the fuel injector stays on. This is accomplished by changing what the computer sees, basically tricking the computer into adding the required fuel. In either case, once the fuel has been added, the nitrous can be introduced to burn the supplemental fuel and generate additional power.
Wet:

The second type of nitrous kit is the “wet” style of kit. These kits include carburetor plate systems and add nitrous and fuel at the same time and place (normally 3-4" ahead of the throttle body for fuel injected applications or just under the carb as with plate systems). This type of system will make the upper intake wet with fuel. These systems are best used with intakes designed for wet flow and turbo/supercharged applications.

remember do NOT engage a nitrous system without the engine being above 3200 to 3500 RPM, and do NOT start it if the button gets pushed accidently before you start the car until it has time to excape.
I have been using NITROUS since 1993 and have NEVER blown up an engine with it. Of course I am a little on the cautious side...
I have ran WET systems, Dry systems, plate systems, with/without purge systems, but always on a PUSH BUTTON not a WOT switch. (did I mention I hate WOT switches) anyway, it can also be set up to a RPM window switch (which is good if you miss gears), then last but not least the bottle heater...if you monitor the bottle pressure you should be good. do go on you tube and see what happens if you accidently leave your bottle heater on over night...NOT GOOD!
hope this helps. its as safe as you want it to be. Read all you can, the more knowledge you get the better off and less likely you are to tear something up....well except the competition
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:02 PM   #8
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^ good info!!
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopgearGT

So are you saying nitrous is no worse then any other type of boost? My thoughts are it might be more detrimental then supercharging but im only using it ath the track maybe one every couple months. Am i right in believing this?
It's no worse than any other method of creating boost, if done wisely. You can't run too much nitrous just like you can't run too many psi of boost on stock guts. Detonation is the biggest danger, and that's avoided with a good tune and high octane fuel. If anything nitrous is safer than lets say, a supercharger because you're only stressing the internals periodically instead of during your daily drive.

Aaaand this response was COMPLETELY trumped by Harper lol!
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:09 PM   #10
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sorry AO...


nitrous is supose to be the poor man's poweradder because it can be purchased for a fraction of the cost of a blower or turbo...
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:47 PM   #11
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Thank you both! Harper and AgentOrange! You have given me the knowledge to go further with my project!

---------- Post added at 06:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harper View Post
How Does Nitrous Oxide Work?

There are three points. First, nitrous oxide is comprised of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). When the nitrous oxide is heated to approximately 572oF (on compression stroke), it breaks down and release extra oxygen, However, it is not this oxygen alone which creates additional power, but the ability of this oxygen to burn more fuel. By burning more fuel, higher cylinder pressures are created and this is where most of the additional power is realized. Secondly, as pressurized nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it changes from a liquid to a gas (boils). This boiling affect reduces the temperature of the nitrous to a minus .127 Degrees F. This "cooling affect" in turn significantly reduces intake charge temperatures by approximately 60-75 Degrees F. This also helps create additional power. A general rule of thumb: For every 10 Degrees F. reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realized. Example: A 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 Degrees F, would gain approximately 25 HP on the cooling affect alone. The third point, the nitrogen that was also released during the compression stroke performs an important role. Nitrogen acts to "buff or dampen" the increased cylinder pressures leading to a controlled combustion process

Dry:

The most misunderstood is the “Dry” type of system.

A “dry” nitrous system simply means that the fuel required to make additional power with nitrous will be introduced through the fuel injectors (remember, fuel makes power, nitrous simply lets you burn more of it). This keeps the upper intake dry of fuel. We accomplish this by two methods. First, is to increase the pressure to the injectors by applying nitrous pressure from the solenoid assembly when the system is activated. This causes an increase in fuel flow just like turning up the pressure on your garden hose from 1/2 to full. The second way we can add the required fuel is to increase the time the fuel injector stays on. This is accomplished by changing what the computer sees, basically tricking the computer into adding the required fuel. In either case, once the fuel has been added, the nitrous can be introduced to burn the supplemental fuel and generate additional power.
Wet:

The second type of nitrous kit is the “wet” style of kit. These kits include carburetor plate systems and add nitrous and fuel at the same time and place (normally 3-4" ahead of the throttle body for fuel injected applications or just under the carb as with plate systems). This type of system will make the upper intake wet with fuel. These systems are best used with intakes designed for wet flow and turbo/supercharged applications.

remember do NOT engage a nitrous system without the engine being above 3200 to 3500 RPM, and do NOT start it if the button gets pushed accidently before you start the car until it has time to excape.
I have been using NITROUS since 1993 and have NEVER blown up an engine with it. Of course I am a little on the cautious side...
I have ran WET systems, Dry systems, plate systems, with/without purge systems, but always on a PUSH BUTTON not a WOT switch. (did I mention I hate WOT switches) anyway, it can also be set up to a RPM window switch (which is good if you miss gears), then last but not least the bottle heater...if you monitor the bottle pressure you should be good. do go on you tube and see what happens if you accidently leave your bottle heater on over night...NOT GOOD!
hope this helps. its as safe as you want it to be. Read all you can, the more knowledge you get the better off and less likely you are to tear something up....well except the competition
Is a Bama tune using an sct tuner a safe way to go or should I have the dyno tuned? Im running 100 shot
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:43 PM   #12
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wet or dry shot?

do you have an adjustible timing setup?
you can close your plug gaps up a little, and turn your timing down a couple thousands and probably be ok...it all depends
so basically your running a dry shot on a 02 stock GT? correct?
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harper
wet or dry shot?

do you have an adjustible timing setup?
you can close your plug gaps up a little, and turn your timing down a couple thousands and probably be ok...it all depends
so basically your running a dry shot on a 02 stock GT? correct?
No its a wet shot. ZEX kit from AM with a window switch.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:59 PM   #14
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I do not have an experience with a ZEX system, but from what I remember they are pretty safe, if you follow the instructions. AM can guide you if your unsure...just make dang sure you install the switch properly (especially if it comes with plug in modules) make sure you set engage switch at around 3200 or above and the disengage switch at lower than you want to rev...
what is the kit adjustable from to what?
start small and work your way up paying close attention to the plugs..
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