differences between pi and nonpi engines? - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1996-2004 Mustang GT



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 11-28-2012, 12:53 AM   #1
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
differences between pi and nonpi engines?

Just wanna see if anybody has a lot of info on these engines. My 98 is pushing 152k and im thinking about doing a swap to a pi engine
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-28-2012, 01:08 AM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
1slosix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 7,311
well are you asking what's the part differences or what a pi swap would do to a non pi engine? honestly i don't know what gets swapped i've only helped a friend on the last part of his after the upper intake and plenum were installed (i basically just installed his chip and helped finish loose ends)...i know the basic premis is to see nice hp and tq gains due to a compression difference in the non pi motor. From what i can tell on his car it was worth the swap because when i had my '04 GT with minor bolt ons he'd leave me behind with just an exhaust and the swap done.
__________________

carving corners like a boss
1slosix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 01:10 AM   #3
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
What would be better? Pi swap on current 98 motor. Or pick up a pi motor under 100k?
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-28-2012, 01:22 AM   #4
Registered Member
Regular
 
1slosix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 7,311
a pi swap..you know new gaskets and solid parts are going into your motor...besides you'll have a nice bit more power over a standard pi motor
__________________

carving corners like a boss
1slosix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 01:26 AM   #5
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
What kind of hp would id be looking at? Tb/plenum/cai/tune
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 01:28 AM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
1slosix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 7,311
i think it's close between a 20-30 hp difference over a standard pi motor if i recall the last guy online to do a swap.
__________________

carving corners like a boss
1slosix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 01:35 AM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
Pi motor is what 260?
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 01:37 AM   #8
Registered Member
Regular
 
1slosix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 7,311
260 crank yep
__________________

carving corners like a boss
1slosix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 01:40 AM   #9
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
Hmm...what's the pi swap cost? I've got a guy with a manifold, cams, and heads for 550. Are there better deals out there? What else do I need?
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 02:46 AM   #10
Registered Member
Regular
 
Blackedout03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Region: Delaware
Posts: 292
What does pi stand for? Sorry kinda new
Blackedout03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 02:48 AM   #11
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
Performance improved
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 05:18 AM   #12
Registered Member
Regular
 
jdavis96gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Region: West Virgina
Posts: 1,014
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GTCONV View Post
Hmm...what's the pi swap cost? I've got a guy with a manifold, cams, and heads for 550. Are there better deals out there? What else do I need?
899 you can get everything brand new.
jdavis96gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 05:53 AM   #13
Registered Member
Regular
 
taylor98gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Region: Kentucky
Posts: 648
There was a guy around me that had a whole bullit top end with the jlt Cai got 500
taylor98gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 12:20 PM   #14
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdavis96gt

899 you can get everything brand new.
Where at?
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 12:30 PM   #15
Registered Member
Regular
 
jdavis96gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Region: West Virgina
Posts: 1,014
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GTCONV View Post
Where at?
EBay . Just read up on warranty and other fine print.
jdavis96gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 12:35 PM   #16
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
Mps has them 849+shipping for whole kit. Is this a difficult diy project? Should I just take it straight to my shop? And if so, what would that bill look like?
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 12:40 PM   #17
Registered Member
Regular
 
1slosix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 7,311
first question do you have a way to tune it when you're done? it's good to think about all the little costs to make a pi swap work 100% like that
__________________

carving corners like a boss
1slosix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 01:04 PM   #18
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
I have an sct tuner
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 04:00 PM   #19
Registered Member
Regular
 
1996mustang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Miami
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,013
I never needed a tune on a pi swap. Only tune uses for intake mild cams lts and so forth. Pi is just put it and done if ur gettin all the pi stuff stock
__________________
1996 Mustang GT, 17x9 front and 17x10.5 cobra r replica rims, 255/40/17 front 285/40/17 rear at the moment,
o/r x-pipe flow master 40 series dump downs, cai/ram intake, 75mm c&l throttle body and plenum, pi heads and intake swap, msd wires, stock gears, untuned at the moment, no dyno numbers for now.
1996mustang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 05:18 PM   #20
Registered Member
Regular
 
M97stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Region: Arizona
Posts: 50
Here's wut done to my car and the results full p.i. Swap at 160,000 miles engine bore over 30 pi heads mild porting and plenum stock tb MAC c.a.i
Tremec tko 500 speed ford raceing alumnium drive shaft 3.73 gear runs on 91 octane sct 4 position chip with sct tune and dyno'd at 310 hp and 320 ft torque at the crank after parasidic loss 300 hp and 305/310 ft pounds to the rear wheels the p.i. Is worth it comes tax season I'm Putin in larger cams and bbk 78mm tb I've had no problems with the swap runs strong!!!!
M97stang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 06:48 PM   #21
Registered Member
Regular
 
LAS97GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spring Lake
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 681
PI head upgrade for 98 GT Vert

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GTCONV View Post
Performance improved
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GTCONV View Post
Just wanna see if anybody has a lot of info on these engines. My 98 is pushing 152k and im thinking about doing a swap to a pi engine

I just did a PI head swap a few months ago. Do a search on my handle "Las97GT" and see how I did. Since I am addressing your thread I'll expand a little. The PI acronym has two references that mean the same thing; "Performance Improved" which is the common name as someone already stated, and "Power Improved" which I come to know as the official meaning of the acronym. The PI heads offer significant Power Gains over the ones in your car. The differences are more noticeable in the compression ratios, with the PI heads increasing total cylinder to piston ration to a10:1; same as offered by trick flow minus the porting. Besides improving on the older heads, other fixes were made to improve the flow of intake and exhaust gases and more to improve ignition in the combustion chamber(s). Using a PI head requires an upgrade to the required Air Intake Manifold to improve air flow to the higher compression rated cylinders. At least two small modifications are required, but this doesn’t mean you just buy the heads and bolt them on. Some preparation is required! Do some research on the process and memorize steps if you are doing it yourself. I noticed My97Stang’s post and need to remind you that he has a TKO 500 tranny to help transfer engine torque to the rear-end, and yours is undoubtedly stock (confirmation required). I am using the stock, lazy T45 probably same as yours. The good news is that the Ford Modular 4.6 liter SOHC, 2 valve engines responds well to simple bolt-on, period. Adding a 70mm Throttle body will offer gains with a corresponding Cold Air Intake with a 10 inch filter. Improving exhaust evacuation will yield even more by adding improved downstream piping ups the power and torque ratio all the way to the tail pipe, and to where it’s most noticeable on the Dyno. It gets better as long as you want our engine to remain Naturally Aspirated or NA. Change your mind to Forced Induction (FI) and you would have to consider reinforced internals, but that will have to be another thread altogether. By now you want to know where I’m at with my build. Well, I built from the ground up (suspension, steering and so on), and I am about 1 bolt on improvement away from pushing past the 300+ RWHP range on the Dyno (I hope). I achieved 279 with a semi-restrictive stock differential, and hope to push higher when I complete my differential upgrade to an Eaton Tru-track. Check out the 5.0 Magazine October 2012 edition page 52 and see what some bolt ons netted on the shootout. Thanks.
__________________
---Las97GT
LAS97GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 07:48 PM   #22
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

I just did a PI head swap a few months ago. Do a search on my handle "Las97GT" and see how I did. Since I am addressing your thread I'll expand a little. The PI acronym has two references that mean the same thing; "Performance Improved" which is the common name as someone already stated, and "Power Improved" which I come to know as the official meaning of the acronym. The PI heads offer significant Power Gains over the ones in your car. The differences are more noticeable in the compression ratios, with the PI heads increasing total cylinder to piston ration to a10:1; same as offered by trick flow minus the porting. Besides improving on the older heads, other fixes were made to improve the flow of intake and exhaust gases and more to improve ignition in the combustion chamber(s). Using a PI head requires an upgrade to the required Air Intake Manifold to improve air flow to the higher compression rated cylinders. At least two small modifications are required, but this doesn’t mean you just buy the heads and bolt them on. Some preparation is required! Do some research on the process and memorize steps if you are doing it yourself. I noticed My97Stang’s post and need to remind you that he has a TKO 500 tranny to help transfer engine torque to the rear-end, and yours is undoubtedly stock (confirmation required). I am using the stock, lazy T45 probably same as yours. The good news is that the Ford Modular 4.6 liter SOHC, 2 valve engines responds well to simple bolt-on, period. Adding a 70mm Throttle body will offer gains with a corresponding Cold Air Intake with a 10 inch filter. Improving exhaust evacuation will yield even more by adding improved downstream piping ups the power and torque ratio all the way to the tail pipe, and to where it’s most noticeable on the Dyno. It gets better as long as you want our engine to remain Naturally Aspirated or NA. Change your mind to Forced Induction (FI) and you would have to consider reinforced internals, but that will have to be another thread altogether. By now you want to know where I’m at with my build. Well, I built from the ground up (suspension, steering and so on), and I am about 1 bolt on improvement away from pushing past the 300+ RWHP range on the Dyno (I hope). I achieved 279 with a semi-restrictive stock differential, and hope to push higher when I complete my differential upgrade to an Eaton Tru-track. Check out the 5.0 Magazine October 2012 edition page 52 and see what some bolt ons netted on the shootout. Thanks.
What preparation is required? I've got an auto stock trans.

---------- Post added at 08:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

Could someone point me in the direction of the pi install writeup?
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 07:52 PM   #23
Registered Member
Regular
 
jdavis96gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Region: West Virgina
Posts: 1,014
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GTCONV View Post
What preparation is required? I've got an auto stock trans.

---------- Post added at 08:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

Could someone point me in the direction of the pi install writeup?
Google pi swap
jdavis96gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2012, 06:47 AM   #24
Registered Member
Regular
 
LAS97GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spring Lake
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 681
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdavis96gt View Post
Google pi swap
Here's a short list of preparations for the swap:
1- decide how you are going to proceed with the break down, such as location and type of equipment you have available. Will you pull the engine from the top or drop it out the bottom with the tranny, get my drift?
2- you will need a high-speed rotary tool with special block cleaning pads (most auto parts stores sells the pads). Rotary tool should be able to do around 3000 rpms and better. I don’t like sand paper because of the risk of damage to block mating surface.
3- Identify the used or new head model year so you can reference the correct head bolt tightening sequence. Same for the intake manifold.
4- the ford production heads 99 and up require a different intake manifold (PI) averaging $249 new, though many have modified the manifold surface to save money. Thought should be given to other brands as well, such as Trick Flow ($800 minus TB) Twin or Single Throttle Body (TB) intakes, which increases air flow to max before applications such as lone modified air to air cooling and eventually Forced Induction kits.
I’ve got to run so I’ll post more later. Essentially, the focus is to provide you more information to help you have the best swap ever. Thanks.
__________________
---Las97GT
LAS97GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2012, 07:01 AM   #25
The Blue Dragon
Regular
Supporter
 
GrabberBlue5.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisville
Region: Kentucky
Posts: 5,661
Good info las97gt! I was about to put in my little but i know about these motors but you covered it all!
__________________
New quick exhaust video

AUGUST 2012 MOTM!!!!
GrabberBlue5.0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2012, 11:05 AM   #26
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
I appreciate all of your help!
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2012, 05:08 PM   #27
Registered Member
Regular
 
LAS97GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spring Lake
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 681
98GT I advise not to buy anything, unless its a sale you cant pass up.
__________________
---Las97GT
LAS97GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2012, 08:06 PM   #28
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
$850 and a warranty from Mps? I mean I've seen heads on craigslist here and there for around 300. Intakes for around 80. Not sure if I should pick everything up separate on craigslist or buy everything I need from Mps...
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 05:32 AM   #29
Registered Member
Regular
 
jdavis96gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Region: West Virgina
Posts: 1,014
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GTCONV View Post
$850 and a warranty from Mps? I mean I've seen heads on craigslist here and there for around 300. Intakes for around 80. Not sure if I should pick everything up separate on craigslist or buy everything I need from Mps...
Came?
jdavis96gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 06:48 PM   #30
Registered Member
Regular
 
LAS97GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spring Lake
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 681
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GTCONV View Post
$850 and a warranty from Mps? I mean I've seen heads on craigslist here and there for around 300. Intakes for around 80. Not sure if I should pick everything up separate on craigslist or buy everything I need from Mps...
What up 98 GT? I got more of my novel for you. Also, I dont mind, so no thank you needed. Here another installment.

5-Components for the PI Cylinder Head swap new and used along with some tips:
-New 2004 Ford Production Cylinder Heads are best. Here’s why. Metal Forging processes Ford uses are very dependable all the way to its limitations. Next, FI can be used with the tight compression ratios. New heads come fully assembled for around $800-$900. I personally bought mine at Pep Boys. Yep Pep Boys do sell performance parts. They can purchase almost any component for almost any American made car. Problem is having a good tech behind the counter; I was lucky. Tip, ask for their catalogs, and browse them you’ll be surprised. I used them because I wanted to avoid the mail order nightmare with such a major component. If the heads were damaged during shipment or failed after putting them on, I could just take them back right away, while doing a face to face with the vendor. In mail order you cannot do that, and you will be queried about whether you had a certified ASE tech install them.
-used PI heads. Do have a good level handy or a metallic straight edge handy. Place the level or straight edge on the bottom of the cylinder head mating surface. Don’t bother looking at the bubble, but instead look for space between the front and back of the machined surface, between the level and the head. It should be clean. If it’s not, that means the head gasket was probably leaking. If you have space under the level, pass it up, or at least find out why. If the bottom is good the top is usually good. Depending on the mileage on the heads, you can estimate the wear on the cams, springs and rock arms. If one rocker arm is not seated correctly, it is safe to assume that it experienced and over-rev condition. This doesn’t mean the head is bad just that rocker arm should be replaced, but that depends on your budget. I won’t go into details as I have yet to tear my older head apart.
6- Must replace components:
-Head bolts. I don’t recommend reusing the old ones. Head bolts are designed to stretch much like your wheel lugs. Used bolts have endured a lot of extreme heat conditions, so I recommend passing up used head bolts.
-Head gasket
-Timing chain guide. Priority should go to the one that are under pressure from the tensioner, but do check the straight bottom guides. The ones on the tensioner are curved.
-Timing chain. Replace it if you can. You don’t want to do this later down the road if you can avoid it. It’s a must if you are going to keep boosting engine power.
-Timing chain tensioner. Do replace them if you can. The last three components can affect your timing later down the road if they become defective and your timing retards beyond control of the PCM (Power control module).
-Timing cover gasket. Good to swap out. If you can’t budget it, clean it up by gently wiping it. Avoid stretching it. I strongly advise replacing it. It does not cost much.
__________________
---Las97GT
LAS97GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 06:58 PM   #31
Registered Member
Regular
 
LAS97GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spring Lake
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 681
-Valve cover gasket. You decide, but notice the bolt pattern on your cover. There’s a different pattern for the 99 and up Stangs.
-Oil pan gasket. Change it out because chances are it will leak later which means dropping the K-member. K-member is what the engine sits on. It has 10 bolts, 5 per side.
-Engine mounts. Change them out if they are worn. Auto Zone sells them. The mounts don’t handle a lot of stress so they should be ok but age does take its toll on them.
I’ll allow someone else to chime in and give you some pointers, because experience shows that someone else usually will have other methods, or ideas they garnered form experience. I never undersell hard earned experience.
Thanks
__________________
---Las97GT
LAS97GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 07:32 PM   #32
Registered Member
Regular
 
LAS97GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spring Lake
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 681
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GTCONV View Post
Mps has them 849+shipping for whole kit. Is this a difficult diy project? Should I just take it straight to my shop? And if so, what would that bill look like?
Average cost for a swap is about $1800, not accounting for parts. Its a major undertaking. Key to saving money is to be able to do without your car for about a month or two. Taking your time and doing it. Its the nickel and dime that gets you. With PI intake plenums (plastic) you will have to modify your metal coolant inlet (low pressure) to adapt your driver side coolant sensor by tapping a fit to accept it as did the old version. Next, you will also have to modify your Water Pump outlet in the Valley of your engine block. PI intakes dont offer much room. You will also have to purchase, new or used, coolanant routing pipe to allow you to get around the larger inake. The PI intake is larger by far over your current stock version. It holds more volume. Dont get discouraged. If you want to do it bad enough, you will find a way, but down time on your car is a must. I hope its not a DD. The fastest way to power is to bolt on a super charger, with the boost dialed way down. Your bottom end can handle about 400HP. If you find the a shop that can port cylinder heads, they should tell you to find a good core, and they will port them suffiently to build the power gains you are looking for, safely. The next fastest way to power is to get the dang heads, get them ported and bolt them on with just swapping out the head gasket and be done with it. There onwards, fix as you go. Just dont drag race by doing hard launches. My Mustang is built to do hard launches with 3700 pounds of dead weight. THE CURSE OF THE CONVERTIBLE.
__________________
---Las97GT
LAS97GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 07:58 PM   #33
Registered Member
Regular
 
LAS97GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spring Lake
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 681
Patience means: bolt on a Long Tube header, 70 mm Throttle Body, High Flow exhaust, High performer Cold Air Intake -fender or under hood, having fun and enoy the ride. If you have some cash left over try a set of 4:10 gears on the diff. It's a blast (I have 3:73s), gotta leave room for the Jags, and Bimmers, Caddys on the top end. Have fun getting there and take your time. Hard earned Stang Builders won't ever ding you for not being able to reach top speed, ever! At least I won't.
__________________
---Las97GT
LAS97GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 08:38 AM   #34
Registered Member
Regular
 
95v686gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Region: Kentucky
Posts: 813
I am curious. I've done this swap on a car that blew head gaskets and I didn't have to pull the motor to do the timing chains and tensioners, heads and intake. So why pull it? If he is going to pull the motor then why not swap for a later model engine then. I've seen the PI year engines sell for that. HELL he could find a good 5.4L at 880 with low miles. If he feels safe enough to pull the engine then he could do a swap and save some money vs pulling the entire engine to just swap top end parts. Not trying to say the PI swap isn't worth it or down you guys but I don't see dropping 880 on parts that you can take the same money and get a low mileage complete engine and do the same thing. Warrenty or not. But thats my opinion.
__________________
1995 V6 Mustang= Divorced Duals, Flowmaster 2 chambers, NO CATS, Raxiom Halo Projector headlights, Smoked Tails, 17 inch Bullitt Wheels
1997 Mustang GT: 4.6L DOHC http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f280/t305270/
1986 Mustang GT= Built 302 SOLD
95v686gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 01:19 PM   #35
Registered Member
Regular
 
98GTCONV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Raleigh
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 521
Yea the way you are making the pi swap sound, I might as well get an 04 4.6, or maybe even pick up a 96-98 cobra motor and trans. Then work my way up on it. I was thinking the pi swap would be $1000 and no motor pull necessary. I wouldn't be able to pull it. And I probably am working with around $1500. I could get a newer 4.6 for around $700 and have money left over for the shop fee. Then sell my old motor and have bolt-on money
98GTCONV is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1996-2004 Mustang GT

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


» Like Us On Facebook



02:00 PM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.