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Old 12-06-2012, 06:09 PM   #1
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wth? Why is it dying?

Driving down the road, turning right I push in the clutch and the Rpm just drops and the engine dies. Roll around the corner with no power steering. Starts right back up. But why'd it die?
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:47 PM   #2
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My car has done that a couple times and its automatic i stopped and it started right back up. Its hasnt done it in a while and i did nothing to fix it so i cant help you... a mystery
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegrassfever6
Driving down the road, turning right I push in the clutch and the Rpm just drops and the engine dies. Roll around the corner with no power steering. Starts right back up. But why'd it die?
O-O
It happens to my cobra all the time. Well only when I pull up the driveway and I have clutch engaged but for some reason it shuts off lol. Theodore bearing is bad on mine though whines like a pig. :/
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:50 PM   #4
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Could be a faulty neutral safety switch causing it to kill when the clutch is engaged
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:37 AM   #5
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Maybe its what happened to mine.....the wiring harness above the egr is grounding out cables and that killed my car while making a right turn or backing out. Im assuming since it just dangles over the ege tube it burnt thru the cover exposing wires and with the vibration or pull of the car made it touch the egr tube.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:39 AM   #6
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Crappy pics but the jist of it is what im aiming for

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1996 Mustang GT, 17x9 front and 17x10.5 cobra r replica rims, 255/40/17 front 285/40/17 rear at the moment,
o/r x-pipe flow master 40 series dump downs, cai/ram intake, 75mm c&l throttle body and plenum, pi heads and intake swap, msd wires, stock gears, untuned at the moment, no dyno numbers for now.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:17 PM   #7
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Sounds like to me it's a idle air control valve isn't working properly. When you pressed your clutch and let off your gas peddle, the IAC valve is suppose to open up and allow continuous air flow to keep the engine alive. It's a VERY common problem on these cars they gum up with carbon build up over time and cease up. It can be cleaned out with throttle body cleaner, you don't have to replace it. Try that and see if it does it again. It will only get worse to the point where it won't stay on unless you depress your gas peddle to open the throttle enough to keep air going to the cylinders. I've had three 99-04 Mustang GTs and all have done this exact thing. My dads 2000 GT Auto just did it last month. His car has 66k miles on it and it was terribly gummed up.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjsg09
Sounds like to me it's a idle air control valve isn't working properly. When you pressed your clutch and let off your gas peddle, the IAC valve is suppose to open up and allow continuous air flow to keep the engine alive. It's a VERY common problem on these cars they gum up with carbon build up over time and cease up. It can be cleaned out with throttle body cleaner, you don't have to replace it. Try that and see if it does it again. It will only get worse to the point where it won't stay on unless you depress your gas peddle to open the throttle enough to keep air going to the cylinders. I've had three 99-04 Mustang GTs and all have done this exact thing. My dads 2000 GT Auto just did it last month. His car has 66k miles on it and it was terribly gummed up.
Posted a pic of the IAC

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Old 12-10-2012, 10:26 PM   #9
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I've noticed it seems to happen more after moderate to heavy acceleration
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:38 PM   #10
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could be as earlier ppl stated then, possible maf sensor or iac, id go with the maf due to loss of power under mild to aggressive acceleration.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:52 PM   #11
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What can I do about it
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:09 PM   #12
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegrassfever6
I've noticed it seems to happen more after moderate to heavy acceleration
Take a minute to verify that the iac is bulb to the air flow. This means the shield is not blocking the actual sensor. Also, check the wire placement to ensure its insulated, or not too close to the manifold. Check for corrosion in the connectors and continuity from the connector to down the wire. I advise do this before u eliminate/replace the the iac.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT

Take a minute to verify that the iac is bulb to the air flow. This means the shield is not blocking the actual sensor. Also, check the wire placement to ensure its insulated, or not too close to the manifold. Check for corrosion in the connectors and continuity from the connector to down the wire. I advise do this before u eliminate/replace the the iac.
I mid spoke some as I keep forgetting that IAC is same as AIS. I'll come back in a bit.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:48 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by LAS97GT

I mid spoke some as I keep forgetting that IAC is same as AIS. I'll come back in a bit.
Start at the TB. EFI engines, regardless of model uses the IAC/ AIS to control throttle when a neutral condition is observed. Neutral conditions occur in a manual either when the tranny is in neutral, or when in gear, and the clutch is depressed. At startup, a cold condition is registered via the o2 sensors, and the PCM allows for high idle till the accelerator is pressed, and driving begins; higher idle during drive satisfies the warm up requirement. If you drove for 10 ft and returned to idle and did not reach warm up it could return to high rpm. With that said, what happens when driving? The intake manifold is under pressure from the air being pushed to the cylinders, so when the load is released, the excess must burn off in the cylinders as the airflow is reduced. Ever noticed how forced induction applications has baffles that allow for back pressure? It allows for idle to be reached quicker. Well, since yours is not FI, no worries. What I hoped you noticed by now is the real function of the IAC and how integral it is to the function of an EFI engine. While driving the PCM uses a feature called dashpot, which in simple terms mean landing zone for idle. It cannot reach the landing zone or it passes it if the IAC malfunctions. The IAC is what the PCM uses to reach it. If its too rapid, a stall occurs. So, after so much ado about this, clean the IAC. Use a brush not sharp tools. If you must use mechanic picks, be careful not to gouge the body. WD-40 will work to loosen the carbon build up. Noticed the fat vacuum hose (94-04) leading to the TB from the intake tube? Yup, you got it! Make sure that hose is serviceable, don't forget the inline filter. I could keep going but I do enjoy sharing my know how. Hope we're headed in the right direction.
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:56 PM   #16
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So I cleaned out the iac and I'm still having issues. Could it be a tuning issue?
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:35 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by bluegrassfever6 View Post
So I cleaned out the iac and I'm still having issues. Could it be a tuning issue?
I doubt it. If I remember correctly the IAC us mechanical and air actuated. The electrics only sense open/close condition. I think I tested it by blowing into the assembly and actuated it (.moving the actuator back and forth). I'll take a look since am going to do some tweaking today at the shop. It has 3 chambers; 1 in front, another in center, the other is hidden behind the rear flat surface of the plunger. The plunger also has to seat, and seal/separate the 1st and 2nd chambers from each other. If its gouged, it won't seal. See if autozone has one and test it. If you have same problem then shift focus somewhere else. Oh, yeah, refund the new part. Should be able to since its electro-mechanical.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:11 PM   #18
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Checked today. It's electrical.
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