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Old 01-04-2013, 08:22 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Fastfive_ogt View Post
Correct but the maf is not the problem then.
Very true. Could be intake mani cracked or a vacuum line rotted out or unplugged. I think he should clean out the filter first. If he chooses to replace a maf the ok. But if it continues from those to being done look for other causes. Fuel deprevation intake leak fuse blown etc.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:27 AM   #37
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His car doesn't start. It only takes a couple things to make the engine run. Spark, compression, fuel and correct timing. A vacuum leak will not cause it to not start. Unless its a huge vacuum leak. I'd start with checking for fuel pressure. I can't tire ally reply much more till after work. Lol. I'm a ford tech.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:29 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Fastfive_ogt View Post
His car doesn't start. It only takes a couple things to make the engine run. Spark, compression, fuel and correct timing. A vacuum leak will not cause it to not start. Unless its a huge vacuum leak. I'd start with checking for fuel pressure. I can't tire ally reply much more till after work. Lol. I'm a ford tech.
i disagree on your vaccum leak comment...it doesn't have to be huge to keep it from starting...just well placed or decent. though i don't believe it's the cause of OPs problem i just saw that and had to post.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:33 AM   #39
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Well he cleaned the maf and now it cranks no start condition .... possible maf however the maf he has is integrated with the iat. Could be the iat messed up causing it to not start....however even i doubt this cause iat reads intake temp but it could be possible.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:34 AM   #40
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Please explain where a vacuum leak can cause a no start condition????
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:41 AM   #41
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Please explain where a vacuum leak can cause a no start condition????
take for example pulling the brake booster line...your car will just about sputter out everytime. granted it's the best way to get cleaning agents into the engine, anyone who's ever pulled it knows how tempramental they can be. now take that idea to a major vaccum line or maybe two minor ones...you can't say it's not something till you've zeroed out the chance on it. And yes i read you're a ford tech...i'm also ASE cert and have owned mustangs for most of my life so i wouldn't say i have no idea what i'm talking about either.

Now like i said earlier i doubt his issue is being caused by a leak...so no need to be so confrontational lol
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:03 AM   #42
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OK so lets start from the beginning...what have we tried and what haven't we tried....i feel bad OP hasn't gotten up and running by now so lets all stick our heads together and see what we can do. I'm confident we can target this if we keep at it.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:11 AM   #43
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I have had cars run with the plenum off. but anyway. Check quality of fuel too. It's hard to fix a car over the Internet. Lol
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:11 AM   #44
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Don't IAT issues usually have some symptoms before they fail? I don't recall Eturner mentioning running probs before now, but we haven't asked.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:13 AM   #45
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I have had cars run with the plenum off. but anyway. Check quality of fuel too. It's hard to fix a car over the Internet. Lol
i'm glad you have lol...i've had cars die with just a simple line pulled. best thing about an online forum is different perspectives and experiences...and i agree not having his car in front of me doesn't really help the situation, but hopefully we can figure something out.

OP you said you have a tune correct...have you had any battery issues lately? any reason part of your tune either reverted or corrupted?
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:27 AM   #46
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i'm glad you have lol...i've had cars die with just a simple line pulled. best thing about an online forum is different perspectives and experiences...and i agree not having his car in front of me doesn't really help the situation, but hopefully we can figure something out.

OP you said you have a tune correct...have you had any battery issues lately? any reason part of your tune either reverted or corrupted?
I do have a tune, but it's the same one I've run for about 5 years now. I'll play around with shift points when I'm at the track but that's it. I have tried starting it with the MAF unplugged, still same thing cranks but will not fire.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:32 AM   #47
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have you taken a stick and hammered on the starter while someone tried to start it yet? could just be as simple as a stuck bendix.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:34 AM   #48
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So maf is NOT the problem then. Check fuel pressure. And I didn't want to get into a dick swinging contest. But a vacuum leak can cause a stall. But in my experience the car will start again. Idle quality is effected. The vacuum leak causes a lean condition. As long as there is enough fuel it will run. I think his problem is lack of fuel, fuel condition etc.... Could I suppose be timing as well. Does it crank abnormally fast? Maybe flooded?
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:04 AM   #49
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No it cranks normally. A couple of times yesterday it sounded like it was going to fire up but didn't.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:38 AM   #50
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Could it be a cam sensor? Its possible or maybe even a crank sensor but since he had a p300 in the beginning with so many cylinders missfiring it could be a coil pack maybe. Idk about u guys but reading back he had multiple misfire to begin which could be caused by a maf or fuel or even ignition since we dont know the initial start up of when it had the problem. Op stated misfire on dam near all the cylinders. My guess lets start with the ignition side of it since a coil pack could start it. However now that ive gotten this far i realized that coil pack dont apply since its cop.....duuuuhhh im dumb lol.

---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:33 AM ----------

However the last time i had that problem i changed out all the plugs and that fixed mine since mine fouled out. Op have u changed plugs recently and whats the condition of the plugs? As well as to mention there is a ground on the fuel rail that if disconnected sets the car out of whack like that since its the ground to the injectors. And it may be just possible that the fprs is the cause of it since it is known to be a common issue on the years that have a fprs. Just my opinion. And im also ase cert'd not to add to the ball swinging contest however i like being corrected if anything due to that it leads more towards gaining of knowledge.
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o/r x-pipe flow master 40 series dump downs, cai/ram intake, 75mm c&l throttle body and plenum, pi heads and intake swap, msd wires, stock gears, untuned at the moment, no dyno numbers for now.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:49 AM   #51
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Could it be a cam sensor? Its possible or maybe even a crank sensor but since he had a p300 in the beginning with so many cylinders missfiring it could be a coil pack maybe. Idk about u guys but reading back he had multiple misfire to begin which could be caused by a maf or fuel or even ignition since we dont know the initial start up of when it had the problem. Op stated misfire on dam near all the cylinders. My guess lets start with the ignition side of it since a coil pack could start it. However now that ive gotten this far i realized that coil pack dont apply since its cop.....duuuuhhh im dumb lol.

---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:33 AM ----------

However the last time i had that problem i changed out all the plugs and that fixed mine since mine fouled out. Op have u changed plugs recently and whats the condition of the plugs? As well as to mention there is a ground on the fuel rail that if disconnected sets the car out of whack like that since its the ground to the injectors. And it may be just possible that the fprs is the cause of it since it is known to be a common issue on the years that have a fprs. Just my opinion. And im also ase cert'd not to add to the ball swinging contest however i like being corrected if anything due to that it leads more towards gaining of knowledge.
I changed out the plugs six months ago, and yesterday pulled a couple of them and they look good and have good spark. Where would I find the ground for the fuel rail and what is the FPRS?..
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:55 AM   #52
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He means frps= fuel rail pressure sensor. You have a electrical returnless fuel system. I've seen plenty of FPDM's go bad too. I'll let you help him on this one. What would help is an IDS. Even though you are ASE certified, that scanner does wonders. Factory scanner. sorry the delay in responses today. I'm pretty busy at work today. At 8 hrs already and still cookin.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:57 AM   #53
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He means frps= fuel rail pressure sensor. You have a electrical returnless fuel system. I've seen plenty of FPDM's go bad too. I'll let you help him on this one. What would help is an IDS. Even though you are ASE certified, that scanner does wonders. Factory scanner. sorry the delay in responses today. I'm pretty busy at work today. At 8 hrs already and still cookin.
Thanks.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:03 PM   #54
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You could also try to get it running on carb spray. Spray some carb spray, brake Kleen or something flammable down the throttle body and see if it fires up on that. Then u know what to do if it does. Good luck.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:23 PM   #55
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Has it sat at all eturner?
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:48 PM   #56
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Has it sat at all eturner?
No that's just it. I drove it to drop off my son at his school. Came back out started it and that's when it started to misfire and popped the original codes. Made it half way home and then it just wasn't going anywhere at all. Driving to his school it was running nice and smooth.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:12 PM   #57
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I had the code P0174 and it turned out that my cold air intake coupler where it meets to the throttle body was cracked and I replaced it and very thing was fine. Hope you find out what's up
Thats exactly what happened to mine, but I managed to burn an O2 sensor before I could find it.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:20 PM   #58
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I see your from Michigan, could it be that your fuel lines are frozen, or just water in your gas from condensation inside your tank. Do you put heat in once in a while when you fill up?
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:30 PM   #59
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I see your from Michigan, could it be that your fuel lines are frozen, or just water in your gas from condensation inside your tank. Do you put heat in once in a while when you fill up?
About once a month ill throw in some injector cleaner/Heat or something similar. Thing is that my car is a DD, I drive it every day.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:36 PM   #60
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Also yesterday had my dad bring over his "Jet Heater" (not sure what it really called), and locked it in the garage with it for about an hour. Thought it was a fuel line freeze at first too but didn't seem to help much. Though that's when it did seem to want to fire back up.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:39 PM   #61
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About once a month ill throw in some injector cleaner/Heat or something similar. Thing is that my car is a DD, I drive it every day.
You should be good then. You'd be surprised how often people in cold climates have rough idle or starting problems because of water in their gas.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:36 PM   #62
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ok so sorry for the late responses, ok i have a pic of the frps location, im aware now that i mispelled it lol. here is where it would be located, as Fastfive_ogt stated, it would help to have a scanner handy to also read it to see whats goin on, i also agree with fast to use either brake/carb cleaner or starting fluid to see if it starts up and u could keep it alive spraying it while playing with throttle, however wont stay on long but then atleast we have a starting point if it starts up.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:06 PM   #63
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ok so sorry for the late responses, ok i have a pic of the frps location, im aware now that i mispelled it lol. here is where it would be located, as Fastfive_ogt stated, it would help to have a scanner handy to also read it to see whats goin on, i also agree with fast to use either brake/carb cleaner or starting fluid to see if it starts up and u could keep it alive spraying it while playing with throttle, however wont stay on long but then atleast we have a starting point if it starts up.
Ya I tried the brake cleaner thing to try to get it started but still no bang. Lol. I got a buddy that's coming over tomorrow with a scan tool to see if anything else is popping up.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:01 AM   #64
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When you turn the key to the on/run position does the check engine light come on and then go off? (Prove out)

---------- Post added at 07:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:58 AM ----------

Also check to see when your cranking it that it has rpm. Sometimes you can see the tach move and sometimes you have to use a scanner to see rpm.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:39 PM   #65
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Ok so the latest and greatest. I at least no know what's wrong just don't have the cash for it right now. I have Zero Fuel pressure. Guess that will keep it from running.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:46 PM   #66
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Congrats, but it doesn't run on carb spray either so maybe you have multiple problems. Or what you used to spray in the t-body wasn't flammable. Lol
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:50 PM   #67
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Congrats, but it doesn't run on carb spray either so maybe you have multiple problems. Or what you used to spray in the t-body wasn't flammable. Lol
A buddy of mine who is a mechanic came by with some starting fluid, that got it to fire a couple of times. Plus he put his Scanner on it and it showed zero pressure in the fuel lines. No I was using Carb cleaner before, just wasn't spraying enough.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:59 PM   #68
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Glad you got some help and figured it out. Do you think you'll try and replace the fuel pump yourself? I've alway been too chicken to try and handle those jobs, Lol. I'm always afraid I'll cause a leak I won't know about and have to drop the tank again to fix or worse. Doing so would certainly save you some money.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:27 AM   #69
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Glad you got some help and figured it out. Do you think you'll try and replace the fuel pump yourself? I've alway been too chicken to try and handle those jobs, Lol. I'm always afraid I'll cause a leak I won't know about and have to drop the tank again to fix or worse. Doing so would certainly save you some money.
Doing it myself would save some cash, but I don't have a good area to take on such a task. I'm going to get some quotes tomorrow and see about how much a shop will do it for.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:31 AM   #70
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Doing it myself would save some cash, but I don't have a good area to take on such a task. I'm going to get some quotes tomorrow and see about how much a shop will do it for.
Hopefully not too much. In my area a high end shop will be about 250-300 while a technician who wants to do it at home after work maybe about 100-150 tops.
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