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Old 01-15-2013, 10:10 PM   #1
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Adding HorsePower Question

Hey guy! just wanted to ask a question about adding some horses to my pony.

I have a 2003 mustang gt, it has some mods on it like; shift kit, bbk cold air intake, and dual straight pipes with 3.5" tips. it has about 305hp on it and i was just wondering. What is the easiest way to get 400-500hp, quickly!


Thanks!,
KillerStang

P.s: price is an issue :/
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:15 PM   #2
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Have you considered nitrous? That's what they say cheap horsepower
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:22 PM   #3
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Have you considered nitrous? That's what they say cheap horsepower
I have not, but thanks man! ill look into it. but if price was not an issue what would you prefer?
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:23 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by KillerStang View Post
Hey guy! just wanted to ask a question about adding some horses to my pony.

I have a 2003 mustang gt, it has some mods on it like; shift kit, bbk cold air intake, and dual straight pipes with 3.5" tips. it has about 305hp on it and i was just wondering. What is the easiest way to get 400-500hp, quickly!

Thanks!,
KillerStang

P.s: price is an issue :/
It won't be cheap any way (other than nitrous)
You can go the FI route (recommended) and get a vortech kit since price is a variable.
Or you can go N/A and get cams, better heads, bore over, and other engine internals related things. Both a good, just depends on what you want out of it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:23 PM   #5
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Turbo all the way
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:29 PM   #6
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Thanks guys for the help!. its really appreciated!
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerStang View Post
Hey guy! just wanted to ask a question about adding some horses to my pony.

I have a 2003 mustang gt, it has some mods on it like; shift kit, bbk cold air intake, and dual straight pipes with 3.5" tips. it has about 305hp on it and i was just wondering. What is the easiest way to get 400-500hp, quickly!


Thanks!,
KillerStang

P.s: price is an issue :/
i'd say you're sitting at maybe 275-280 crank hp if your cars engine is running like a top. so about 240-245 at the wheels...if you're looking for 400+ cheap not gonna really happen.

cheap
reliable
fast

pick two

my reccomendation is a bank account mod...keep saving till you can look into a good forced induction setup

welcome to the site btw...
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:19 AM   #8
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Get a turbo kit. Worth the money. Easier on the motor. If you put more mods into the motor you can readjust the turbo set up to work with it. To an extent.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:09 AM   #9
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Remember these engines arent build for major hp. A supercharger can be put on these 4.6s but on a conservative tune. You go too extreme and expect at some point that engine will die. Im looking into a N/A route I just like it better. But fastest easy way to get to 400hp is a vortech. If money is no object go kennie bell.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:16 PM   #10
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Get a tune/tuner.

Have you had your car dyno'd? I ask because 305 rwHP is not possible with the mods you listed, even 305 HP at the flywheel (fwHP, 260 at the wheels) would be a stretch without a very good tune.

Dead stock PI GTs deliver 220 to 225 to the wheels (260 fwHP). With those mods and no tune I would be surprised to see 230 at the wheels. With a decent tune you can expect 245 to maybe 250.

By "straight pipes" do you mean no H or X crossover? If so that will easily cost you 10 to 15 peak rwHP and cause power to drop off very quickly after the peak.
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New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:29 PM   #11
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Get a tune/tuner.

Have you had your car dyno'd? I ask because 305 rwHP is not possible with the mods you listed, even 305 HP at the flywheel (fwHP, 260 at the wheels) would be a stretch without a very good tune.

Dead stock PI GTs deliver 220 to 225 to the wheels (260 fwHP). With those mods and no tune I would be surprised to see 230 at the wheels. With a decent tune you can expect 245 to maybe 250.

By "straight pipes" do you mean no H or X crossover? If so that will easily cost you 10 to 15 peak rwHP and cause power to drop off very quickly after the peak.
Not hoping to sound idiotic but would you mind explaining to me why the drastic drop in hp with the straight piping. I'm just curious
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:10 PM   #12
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Not hoping to sound idiotic but would you mind explaining to me why the drastic drop in hp with the straight piping. I'm just curious
Exhaust gas flow, like intake flow, is not a steady contiguous stream but rather a series of pulses generated by each cylinder pushing out the spent gases. Each pulse has a definite mass, a high pressure head, a near ambient pressure body, and a lower than ambient pressure tail--and they occur at different points in time according to the engine's number of cylinders, crank offsets, and firing order.

Because of this it is possible to create an exhaust system where the passing of one cylinder's lower-then-ambient pressure tail (and the inertia of that pulse's mass), from one bank, can assist the flow in the other bank--a scavenging effect. This is what H and X pipes (and the under the engine crossover pipes of yore) are all about. Because of fluid dynamics, harmonic relationships and the like, this only happens within certain frequency bands (engine RPM) but these bands can be optimised by proper design.

The H-pipe design is great for push-rod engines that max out at 5500 RPM due to valve and valvetrain "float", X-pipes OTH are better for higher revving overhead cam engines like those in our cars.

Dual straight pipes cannot take advantage of this dynamic relationship, and other than in situations where there is so much power available that the benefits of interbank scavenging are negligible, having bank isolated piping is a detriment, not a benefit.

Read John Heywood's Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals, or Charles Taylor's The Internal Combustion Engine In Theory and Practice for more. I had the privilege of studying with Dr. Heywood at MIT in the late 60s...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:15 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post

Exhaust gas flow, like intake flow, is not a steady contiguous stream but rather a series of pulses generated by each cylinder pushing out the spent gases. Each pulse has a definite mass, a high pressure head, a near ambient pressure body, and a lower than ambient pressure tail--and they occur at different points in time according to the engine's number of cylinders, crank offsets, and firing order.

Because of this it is possible to create an exhaust system where the passing of one cylinder's lower-then-ambient pressure tail (and the inertia of that pulse's mass), from one bank, can assist the flow in the other bank--a scavenging effect. This is what H and X pipes (and the under the engine crossover pipes of yore) are all about. Because of fluid dynamics, harmonic relationships and the like, this only happens within certain frequency bands (engine RPM) but these bands can be optimised by proper design.

The H-pipe design is great for push-rod engines that max out at 5500 RPM due to valve and valvetrain "float", X-pipes OTH are better for higher revving overhead cam engines like those in our cars.

Dual straight pipes cannot take advantage of this dynamic relationship, and other than in situations where there is so much power available that the benefits of interbank scavenging are negligible, having bank isolated piping is a detriment, not a benefit.

Read John Heywood's Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals, or Charles Taylor's The Internal Combustion Engine In Theory and Practice for more. I had the privilege of studying with Dr. Heywood at MIT in the late 60s...
Very enlightening! Thank you very much for the time you took to explain this to me. It kinda makes sense to me now
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:05 PM   #14
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He probably meant straight pipes as in no mufflers though.... Probably still has cats
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:45 AM   #15
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So would anything significantly bad happen if you we're to do a muffler delete on our cars? Like stock manifolds, o/r pipe but no mufflers, would that be ok??
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:46 AM   #16
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So would anything significantly bad happen if you we're to do a muffler delete on our cars? Like stock manifolds, o/r pipe but no mufflers, would that be ok??
Other than it being absurdly loud there would be no detrimental effect, and very little positive effect as well as most performance mufflers do not add significant restriction.

Straight-through mufflers like MagnaFlows add none...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:27 AM   #17
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Exhaust alone does not add a whole lot of hp. I did notice a difference when I put mine on but on a dyno maybe 3-5 noticeable hp gains. Bolt on wise tuner and cai adds the most. But a good exhaust is a must for these car cause the stock exhaust is crap. 5.0 magazine had a good article about bolt on battles on different models and year mustangs and the most gains came from the tuner and cai. The exhaust dropped torque and added a few hp. U can look it up on there website they have two bolt on battle articles.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:11 AM   #18
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Other than it being absurdly loud there would be no detrimental effect, and very little positive effect as well as most performance mufflers do not add significant restriction.

Straight-through mufflers like MagnaFlows add none...
Ok I didn't think that anything bad would happen I just wanted to make sure
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