Beginner's guide to bolting-on power gains - Page 2 - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1996-2004 Mustang GT



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 01-28-2013, 06:18 PM   #36
Registered Member
Regular
 
jjsg09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 1,224
Please don't attack me for saying this but yes the stock air box is good but I have to disagree that cai are a waste of money. For one the stock air box is hideous looking and there is proof that cai do add great hp for the money. It is usually the starting point in modding your Stang. 5.0 magazine has been doing bolt on battles in there last 2 magazines and the first one was between 4 different models of Stangs and the New Edge got a good hp gain from a cai mod. It jumped up 8hp with a K&N setup. You do what you want with your cars but I changed mine not just for hp gains but mainly for engine bay looks. I attached a link that shows proof of hp gains.

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...ustang_gt.html
jjsg09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-28-2013, 06:29 PM   #37
Registered Member
Regular
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,001
Quote:
Originally Posted by to_oaxaca View Post
So I just bought my first car, 00 GT, and I want to put in more HP into it with a little bit more of sound of course. I was reading a few of these threads and I was thinking of adding a BBK Power Plus CAI system and maybe an Magnaflow exhaust system. What do you guys recommend?
I guess you did not read the first post in this thread:

"There is no power gain worth the $$ to be had with any aftermarket CAI. The stock intake is a CAI and a very good one to boot. The same holds true for drop-in air filters. I made 262/305 rwHP/lbft with the modest bolt-ons listed here, a finely honed tune, UDPs and the stock intake with a Purolator paper filter--that's all you need."

Exhaust, 2-1/2" from the manifolds back--yes...
__________________
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
cliffyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 05:47 PM   #38
Registered Member
Regular
 
to_oaxaca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Las Vegas
Region: Nevada
Posts: 87
Lol alright got it, thanks Cliff Cx
to_oaxaca is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-31-2013, 10:22 PM   #39
Registered Member
Regular
 
escottcarp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Jackson
Region: Mississippi
Posts: 365
What are your thoughts about performance plugs, wires, and coils? These are usually relatively cheap and obviously bolt-on. Advertisements always emphasize the gains achieved with these items.
escottcarp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 10:16 AM   #40
Registered Member
Regular
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,001
Quote:
Originally Posted by escottcarp View Post
What are your thoughts about performance plugs, wires, and coils? These are usually relatively cheap and obviously bolt-on. Advertisements always emphasize the gains achieved with these items.
Simple answer, they are lying to you.

Spark Plugs:

Regarding spark plugs let us first examine what motivation Ford would have to choose to install plain ol' single electrode platinum plugs, rather than some other fancy magical multi-electrode, mystical "power" plug.

Answer: They have none.

Auto makers compete vigorously to attain the highest horsepower and fuel economy ratings, and have to pay a fine to the EPA for every vehicle produced that does not meet the CAFE requirements. If spending another $50 on spark plugs could provide such miraculous increases in HP and mpg it would be pretty stupid of them to not do it, wouldn't it?

Also consider that Champion has been making spark plugs for over 110 years, and with the exception of a small line of multi-electrode designs for specialty applications does not make such plugs for general automotive use. If there were a better way to make a spark plug Champion would have sorted it out by now, or bought up the technology.

For nearly any but the most radical naturally aspirated build, and any modest boost (< 8 psi) setup, fine wire precious metal electrode plugs are the best selection. Fine wire plugs required only 40% less voltage to ionise the gap and fire and are much less prone to fouling--that is why automakers choose them. I run Champion stk# 3401 plugs in my '03 GT which turned out 262/305 rwHP/lb-ft with only modest bolts-ons and a highlt optimised tune.

Plug Wires, Coils and Coil Packs:

A long long time ago, in a Galaxy far away (a 1964 Ford Galaxy) stock ignition coils sucked big time when combined with most any sort of engine performance upgrade; as did the distributor, condenser and wires-- and an entire industry was built arouned this by companies like Accel, Mallory, MSD and others to fill the gap (no pun intended).

Back then the grandiose claims made by aftermarket ignition component makers/vendors were actually and largely true. But then along came emissions standards and the automakers could no longer deliver vehicles with such poor ignition systems and meet the standards. For a while the aftermarket stuff was often still superior, however as time went by and OEM distributorless wasted spark, and COP ignition systems, became commonplace the aftermarket claims became increasingly just that--claims based on something that was once true ( BTW, K&N lives on riding this same train).

Assuming that wire set/coil combination A can fire the plugs so as to initiate a solid combustion and flame-front, there is no reason to expect that wire set/coil combination B could cause engine output to increase. Beyond that distributorless technology (coil packs and long plug wires) for over the road vehicles are a far less than state-of-the-art systems. If I were doing a serious street build on a '96 to '98 Mustang with the EDIS system I would look into a COP conversion.

COPs:

Now there is something serious to discuss.

The stock COPs are universally held as being superior to aftermarket units, and my own testing of COPs donated to my project supports that position. I found no aftermarket COP that surpassed the stock units in either energy output or durability, in fact a number of the aftermarket COPs were less durable:



The COP Tester shown is my own creation and uses a manually triggered MOSFET ignition driver firing circuit very similar to that in the PCM. The COP's output is connected to an adjustable air gap tester, and its output gauged by how large an air gap it can fire across:

Here is an Accel COP set up for testing:



Here are the results of testing four Accel COPs against four stock coils:



Note that the Ford OEM COPs consistently produced 55 kV, 5 kV more than the Accel COPs.

Here is a video of an Accel COP being tested, firing across a 15 mm (0.590") air gap.

If the rapid sequential full charge dump firing shown in the video were performed 10 to 12 times the COP will become so hot you could not hold it in your hand; if full charge dump is fired 20 times rapidly smoke will start to come from the COP and it will have been significantly compromised. 25+ such firings will burn the COP out completely. At some number of such firing this is true for any COP, from any maker. I did find that in general the stock COPs were more resistant to this treatment, some requiring as many as 30 rapid cycle firings to burn them out.

This is a real torture test as the COPs are not engineered or intended to ever do this. In normal use, making a spark across a piddly little 1.4 mm (0.054"), less than 5% of the COPs full charge is dissipated. Here's are oscilloscope traces of an Accel COP firing across a 0.054" and 15 mm gaps:



Note: I more aggressively and destructively tested the Accel COPs because a contributor sent me a set of eight (with three already burned out) and I have my own set of eight in which four had burned out over a five week period, with between 20k and 25k miles on them.

COPs have tremendous reserve capacity, so much that it is used at idle and up to 1200 rpm or so to fire each plug 3 times in rapid succession to provide a smoother burn and improve emissions. Here is what this looks like on an oscilloscope:



The high initial spike represents the coil's stored energy ionising the spark plug gap, this is a voltage spike of 16 to 20 kV (off the top of the trace). The short downward sloping line after the ionisation event is the plug actually firing at a sustained voltage of 4 to 6 kV. The triple firings are clearly seen at 1.33 ms intervals.

The torture test also reveals why COPs tend to fail soon after washing an engine or a coolant leak has flooded the plug wells. The COPs will be have been compromised by being subjected to near and full capacity discharges. Grossly worn plugs with large gaps, and boots that are arcing through can also weaken COPs; I recommend changing the COP boots at 100k miles.


So there you have it--see what happens when you ask a retired engineer a simple question?
__________________
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
cliffyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 10:37 AM   #41
Registered Member
Regular
 
fomoco4life's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Antioch
Region: California
Posts: 839
@CliffyK...just wanted to let you know that I thoroughly enjoy reading all of your posts. you're 1 of the most informative/knowledgeable members we have here, and I almost always learn something new that I didn't know after your postings. I'd love for you to tune my car 1 of these days, but I'm guessing you're probably not in California
fomoco4life is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 05:27 PM   #42
Registered Member
Regular
 
escottcarp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Jackson
Region: Mississippi
Posts: 365
CliffyK, that's the kind of data I was hoping for when I joined the forum. Thanks for telling it straight. I have wanted a Mustang fir a long time, but it has always been impractical. Now, I have an '02 GT and its almost too much for me to handle. I'm a pretty good shade tree mechanic who needs some good Ford Mustang knowledge (as opposed to minivans and sedans). You are filling that knowledge void. Thanks, from an MBA.
escottcarp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 07:47 PM   #43
Registered Member
Regular
 
goodwinta1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Shepherdsville
Region: Kentucky
Posts: 123
Love the info CliffyK. Changed my mind about a couple possible mods. Enjoy reading everything I have come across that you have written. Thanks bro!
__________________
goodwinta1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 02:06 PM   #44
Registered User
Newbie
 
dccustoms88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Davenport
Region: Florida
Posts: 12
alright so i have a 96 stock gt convertible with a bbk cold air(came with it). what would be my first bolt on/upgrade?
dccustoms88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 02:16 PM   #45
Registered Member
Regular
 
v8pony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Monmouth County, New Jersey
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 2,201
Quote:
Originally Posted by dccustoms88 View Post
alright so i have a 96 stock gt convertible with a bbk cold air(came with it). what would be my first bolt on/upgrade?
Exhaust, atleast 2 1/2in, X or H pipe (catted or non doesn't matter), a nice catback won't hurt either, than grab yourself a tuner
__________________
2002 5spd GT
Feb 2013 Mustang of the Month
v8pony is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 07:06 PM   #46
Registered User
Newbie
 
dccustoms88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Davenport
Region: Florida
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post

Exhaust, atleast 2 1/2in, X or H pipe (catted or non doesn't matter), a nice catback won't hurt either, than grab yourself a tuner
I was thinking about exhaust also first would 3' be to large? Someone has fitted it with x pipe already. Any suggestions on a tuner??
dccustoms88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 09:17 PM   #47
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: minden
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 7
i have a 99 gt. i have the accu fab plenum and tb. i have the ford racing intake that i just installed which i dont think there will be any increase in hp, but mine was leaking so i upgreded. i noticed my pintel caps were broken on 2 injectors, so i was thinking bout replacing filters, o-rings, and pintle caps on all of them but then thought about upgrading to 21 or 24lb injectors. whats your thought on this? dont have tuner or air itake but was thinking bout getting bama tune or diablo and airraid. may get h pipes soon also. so should i rebuild my 19s or go for 21s or 24s?
jt318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2013, 09:12 AM   #48
Registered Member
Regular
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,001
Quote:
Originally Posted by jt318 View Post
i have a 99 gt. i have the accu fab plenum and tb. i have the ford racing intake that i just installed which i dont think there will be any increase in hp, but mine was leaking so i upgreded. i noticed my pintel caps were broken on 2 injectors, so i was thinking bout replacing filters, o-rings, and pintle caps on all of them but then thought about upgrading to 21 or 24lb injectors. whats your thought on this? dont have tuner or air itake but was thinking bout getting bama tune or diablo and airraid. may get h pipes soon also. so should i rebuild my 19s or go for 21s or 24s?
Without a tune the TB and plenum will not do much other than improve "throttle response", meaning that you do not have to step on the throttle pedal as "hard" to achieve a given engine response. With the exception of the aluminum coolant crossover the FRPP PI intake is the same as your 1999's stock PI intake--no power gain there.

If you plan on messing about with fueling at all you need a wideband O² system--even if you use BAMA, one of the other mail order tune vendors, or choose to tune it yourself. They and/or you will need to know what the AFR is and where it trends to get things dialed in.

The 21s can be run on your '99 without a tune, however the engine will run quite rich at higher loads and WOT--I.e. AFR will be in the low 11s (:1) and even down to the high 10s. 24 lb/h injectors will support up to 300 rwHP in an n/a build, however you will need retuning to run them.

BAMA's Free Tunes for Life is a great deal if you do not plan on doing your own tuning, as no handheld by itself is suitable for serious tuning. If you do plan on tuning it yourself SCT Advantage and one of the their handhelds, or Delta Force's Special Forces or Commando systems (the latter being the equal to SCT Advantage).

As I stated in the first post there is nothing to be gained by any aftermarket CAI or drop in air filter. The stock intake is a CAI, and a good one.
__________________
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
cliffyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2013, 08:15 PM   #49
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: minden
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 7
So if you were in my shoes would you rebuild 19s or buy 21s? I don't know if I am smart enough to tune it myself lol. I will probably put ud pulleys in also but not sure when. Maybe in a couple months. Thanks for the info
jt318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2013, 12:18 PM   #50
Registered Member
Regular
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,001
Quote:
Originally Posted by jt318 View Post
So if you were in my shoes would you rebuild 19s or buy 21s? I don't know if I am smart enough to tune it myself lol. I will probably put ud pulleys in also but not sure when. Maybe in a couple months. Thanks for the info
I would not rebuild the 19s, but would instead look for a set of 21s (which would not NEED a retune) or 24s (which will REQUIRE a retune) on eBay.

As to tuning anyone can do it, like anything else all it takes is the proper knowledge and tools--even the best tuner out there started out with his mother wiping crap off his backside and not knowing squat about tuning.

Greg Banish's book Engine Management: Advanced Tuning is a great place to start...
__________________
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
cliffyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2013, 11:04 PM   #51
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: minden
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 7
awesome. i have been trying to figure this out, so thanks for the info
jt318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 12:11 PM   #52
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: minden
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 7
sorry but i have a few more questions. ok should i go with special force tune and 24 lb injectors? then get h pipe and mufflers and maybe ud pulleys later? or do the exhaust first and tune and injectors later? also been doing some research and looks like i can handle the special force tune myself and read up on tuning and get commando later. should i still read some books on tuninig before trying special forces? also whats your take on special force vs sct?
jt318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 09:15 AM   #53
Registered Member
Regular
 
Michael.s.king's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: South Portland
Region: Maine
Posts: 209
Just purchased my first mustang and am very happy to see an outline like this to reference as I try to begin some performance upgrades. Thank you!
Michael.s.king is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #54
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Dallas
Region: Texas
Posts: 1
Good write up
s197z06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2013, 06:46 PM   #55
Registered Member
Regular
 
darkshadowGT04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Clementon
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 64
Nice write up it answer a few of my questions
darkshadowGT04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2013, 07:14 PM   #56
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: surf city
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 8
are the 2v and 4v block and crank the same? My 99 gt was a Sandy vic, and not letting her go that way!
Mustaangsally is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 08:36 PM   #57
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
Nope, 2V is a cast 6 bolt, Cobras got the 8 bolt forged unit, Mach 1s were forged for sticks and cast for autos. Either crank will easily support more power than most ppl will ever put to them provided the RPMs are kept in the mid 6k range. Exception to this is the 99/00 GT which had an 8 bolt cast crank.

Anyway, this writeup is very good, modulars are definitely different from someone like me coming from 5.0 land where you HAVE to get headers and a CAI does help.

My 98 with a 99 PI motor has pretty much all the "bolt ons" done to it already. CAI, full exhaust, pullies, plenum, gears and nice big 315 wide Nitto 555s out back among other things. It honestly feels stronger than my old 95 Cobra did when it had all the bolt ons too. These motors really do respond well to minor bolt on mods and are very fun on the street. A bolt on SN95 with gears is still going to be quicker than most things you'll encounter on the street even today where 260hp isn't all that impressive anymore.
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 08:56 PM   #58
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: surf city
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 8
u from the 5.0 and me from the 289 days, I made a living on imports and jeeps. I replaced all harnesses etc, and lzard skined the floor w/ eastwood Thermal/sound proofing on top of that, love the car but wasnt overly impressed w/ the 4.6 2v.

You can run a auto W/ the Mach1 ? Either way Iam leaning toward the 4v at least, perfect world I find a wreck w/ a blower, missed one w/ harness and ECU for 2400. Weather is getting nice so I wont waste to much more time.
Mustaangsally is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 09:05 PM   #59
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
Mach 1s came in Auto yes, they are rare because most ppl lol'd at the cast crank and the "sissy auto" back when they were new including me. Dumbasses all of us... These days they are coveted especially the 04s with the 4r75w and revised heads because with a few bolt ons, a tune and a J-mod to the auto they're 11 second cars easy. There is a reason so many terminator guys setup for drag racing convert to automatics, the Mach 1 already has it done for you although you are still stuck with the crap modular rods. Oh, the Machs also got by far and away the best automatic computer prior to the 05 cars coming out. The Mach 1 SYM2 automatic computer is the only SN95/New Edge computer capable of keeping up with a legit fast (like 9 or 10 second 1/4 car) without hitting the limiter before completing a shift.
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 11:23 PM   #60
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: surf city
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 8
Thanks, was never affraid of running auto's, our family car in the late 60's was a Shelby w/ stick ,GTX w/ a auto, of course my cars when it was my turn to have the fast car were all standard. Now Iam just gettin lazy.

I have 2 Mustang only salvage yards keeping watch..MPS which supplied the interior,Harnesses w/all PCM's and Prestige which was the Cobra I missed on, but did get me a 35th anniversary instrument panel. Prestige has a carrier coming in tuesday
Mustaangsally is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2013, 06:24 PM   #61
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: minden
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 7
Ok so now I have a blown head gasket and maybe messed up heads. Mechanic said about $1600 so I am thinking about a rebuilt motor for $2,400 cause I have 200k on the motor. But I was thinking bout getting a bigger faster motor. So my question is this, what size motors will fit in my 99 gt
jt318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2013, 06:57 PM   #62
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
A good lower mileage PI motor can be had complete for $500-$900 depending on where you live. That is obviously just for the motor and not for any labor to swap them so factor that in. I've done motor swaps in SN95s before and I think its easy but that's me and I'm a mechanic by trade (on airplanes). If you are not comfortable with that then I would talk to your mechanic and see what he would charge to swap in a good running motor and go from there. Also get estimates from other shops and if you are in/near NJ give Kevin at Wicked Motorsports a call.

Motors that will work are any PI motor from a Vic, 99-04 Mustang GT or 02-05 Explorer. The Mustang engines usually command a higher price although they are identical, pretty much dealers/yards just saying "Mustang engine!". The Vic engines are generally lower, easier, old person miles but the 02-05 Explorer PI motors are, IMO, the best one if you can find them because you get the added bonus of the WAP aluminum block which knocks a good 75+lbs off the nose.

All in all, eff $2400 for a rebuilt stock motor unless that includes install and everything and even then...
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2013, 08:19 PM   #63
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: minden
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 7
I didn't think bout a Vic. That sounds like a good option. But since I am changing motors would a 5.0 or 5.4 fit? Or should I stick with a 4.6? I was thinking bout just getting my head reworked which will be bout $350 and $100 for gaskets but it still has high miles so worried motor could go out after all that money and work.
jt318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2013, 01:29 AM   #64
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,587
Probably should start a new thread vs cluttering up the bolt on thread more. Short answer, stick with the 4.6
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 08:28 AM   #65
Registered Member
Regular
 
02GTvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Perrysburg
Region: Ohio
Posts: 441
Is there a great advantage over long tubes vs shorties? or the gold plated ceramic vs stainless?
02GTvert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 08:40 AM   #66
Registered Member
Regular
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,001
"Shorties" provide little if any gains over the stock manifolds, so the answer to your question is yes. More about how tuned headers work here, though "shorties" are not specifically mentioned the importance/effect of tube length is and it will become obvious that short tube headers are just a marketing gimmick.

Ceramic coating is an insulator keeping more heat in the tube, making the exhaust gasses less dense and therefore faster flowing. It also serves to keep the underhood air cooler. Stainless steel has much lower thermal conductance that mild steels and therefore does the same thing as ceramic coating. Coated stainless steel would be the best.
__________________
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
cliffyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 09:16 AM   #67
Registered Member
Regular
 
02GTvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Perrysburg
Region: Ohio
Posts: 441
Thanks! Well there goes that idea. lol What do you say about a battery relocation? pointless waste of money or worth every penny?
02GTvert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 09:24 AM   #68
Registered Member
Regular
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,001
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02GTvert View Post
Thanks! Well there goes that idea. lol What do you say about a battery relocation? pointless waste of money or worth every penny?
What is your goal for the vehicle? If it's a street car then I would go with "waste of time and money" (not "pointless", just not something worth the effort). If it's a track car and you want every 1/100th second then go for it.

Then of course there is always bragging rights and the desire to be cool, one obnoxious and the other silly, but whatever floats your boat...
__________________
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
cliffyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 09:32 AM   #69
Registered Member
Regular
 
02GTvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Perrysburg
Region: Ohio
Posts: 441
Its not a track car nor a daily, just my 'get away from everything' freedom. The relocation is just something else to do I've pretty much done everything I myself can do to the car. Just looking for rather simple things. Intake manifold pointless without cams and heads?
02GTvert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 01:04 PM   #70
Registered Member
Regular
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,001
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02GTvert View Post
Its not a track car nor a daily, just my 'get away from everything' freedom. The relocation is just something else to do I've pretty much done everything I myself can do to the car. Just looking for rather simple things. Intake manifold pointless without cams and heads?
Yup, actually the PI intake is pretty good...
__________________
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
cliffyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1996-2004 Mustang GT

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


» Like Us On Facebook



08:14 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.