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Old 04-04-2013, 07:15 AM   #36
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They sell a pre made plate and gasket set for this purpose on ebay for about $5. Ive had one for about a year not and make a world of difference.
Yeah I saw that, the reason I didn't use a plate is because with the stopper type restrictor you can take out the restrictor without unscrewing anything. It makes it a lot easy to fine tune the size of the restrictor.

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That's awesome I hope I can do w story like that
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Amazing read, what a story... amazing car man amazing
Thanks so much! I'm glad you guys like it
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:25 AM   #37
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Awesome ride, looks really clean! Looks like the progression was/is a lot of fun
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:30 PM   #38
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Well the 3.73s/new diff is in! Holy mother of god the car is 100x more fun to drive now. I just spent a whole day doing the install I got the car on the lift around 12pm and finished the install entirely at 10pm (I also had to eat lunch and dinner in that time frame so total time for the install ended up being around 8 hours probably)

Here's the car up on the lift with the wheels removed:


Here the old diff is ready to come out completely but I ran into some trouble getting the LCA bolt out of the differential (they were rusted in place).


After finally getting those bolts out, the whole diff came out without much of an issue. I also checked and it appears that my springs were definitely cut and arent actual lowering springs which means those are next on my mod list.


And here's the new diff in all of it's glory. I also soldered in a Ford Racing Speed Cal to adjust the speedometer and now I finally have an almost perfect speedometer reading.


Overall extremely happy with the 3.73 gear choice. It's the perfect amount of gear in my opinion, pulls really hard (compared to the stock 2.73s for sure) but isnt over the top. My first gear still does something lets just put it that way.
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:40 PM   #39
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Read this whole thread. Amazing man.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:43 PM   #40
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Read this whole thread. Amazing man.
Thanks man I glad you enjoyed it.

So now just an update on what I did to the car this summer. I have been trying to save my money for college so I didnt spend a whole lot on my car, but I did some worthwhile things.

Summer 2013

The first thing I did this summer was the new differential. I posted an update above with pictures of the swap. After driving the car all summer and I can say that I am extremely happy with the 3.73 gears. I am happy I did not go with 4.10s just because I think that would be a little bit too much gear for a daily driver with weekly-monthly highway driving.

A side note with the diff, I am getting much better traction in rain and slippery conditions with the differential. It is odd because with the gears I thought it would be a lot worse. I think it is the Auburn Differential which is doing a much better job handling the power than the traction lok that was probably worn out anyways in the old diff.

Also my E-brake is now fully functioning, where as before it did not do anything. This was because one of my rear brake calipers was seized and not working.

The next major modification I did was I installed new brake calipers. Nothing too interesting here. I was hoping this would fix the problem of the car pulling to the left when I hit the brakes, which it did not.

Now for the good stuff.



I got my windows tinted at the beginning of the summer to try and reduce the interior heat and make the car actually bearable to drive in the summer. It is amazing I love it! I went with 20% ceramic tint all the way around, and a ceramic 70% windshield tint. It is amazing it was worth the money.



This is one of those mods that I just simply didnt trust myself to do, I would mess it up. So I had it professionally done and it turned out awesome. The one thing that sucked was my passanger side has a very small nick in the tint because something inside the door hit it when I rolled the windows down

Next thing isnt really a mod, but I pulled apart my old engine to see what was making the ticking noise. Turns out it was a combination of a few things. First and foremost, I had a spun rod bearing on cylinder 8.

Its a little hard to see, but the bearing on the right is long gone and the one on the left was about to go as well. You can kind of see the difference in thickness.





The spun bearing (right) was as shown in this picture when I pulled the engine apart. This explains why the ticking would go away some times.



So the source of the ticking was actually the piston (piston #8) hitting the crankshaft, as far as I can tell. In this picture there are three pistons, the two right ones were still "good" (Although not in very good shape as you can tell). The one on the left has marks where the crankshaft was hitting. My guess is that when the bearing spun to one side, the clearance was off and the piston hit.



Close up of the piston skirt that was hitting:



Heres the inside of the rod with the spun bearing, hard to tell in the picture but it is very rough and not smooth like it should be:



Another thing I noticed on the bad piston, it looks like there was some sort of loss of compression if you look at the build up on the top of the piston, there is a clean path actually indented into the piston head.



One more thing I found out about the engine was every single oil ring was bad, not just one or two...every single piston had a bad oil ring. You can see what appears to be some bad blow-by on these three pistons, and this is after I cleaned them off with a wire brush.

60DE5149-A862-4485-91D4-F6921B147A2E-2418-000002D8CE5C6CBD.jpg Photo by DutchManDann | Photobucket

And last but not least the engine had a blocked oil passage on the passanger side head.

The most recent thing to happen to the car occurred just a few days ago. I knew the driver's side ball joint needed to be replaced, but I couldnt find the time to do it. Well after driving on a bad ball joint for too long, I had this happen as I was pulling out of the drive way:



Looks pretty bad but there doesnt appear to be any significant damage done. The fenderwell got pushed in, easy to fix. The bracket that holds the horns bent up, but I just bent it back down and the horn works fine.

A few hours last night, and the car is back on the road. The balljoint really isnt too dificult to replace at all. here's the old one, keep in mind the ball was completely seperated from the socket, hence the wheel falling off lol



So I am going to use this as a reminder that when you know something is wrong on your ride...get it replaced ASAP. If this balljoint had gone while I was on the highway or something, I probably wouldnt be sitting here right now.

As it turned out, the balljoint was the source of many of my problems...first off, the car pulled to the left when I braked, which now it does not do that. Second, the car was higher off the ground on the drivers side (more space between the tire and the wheel well), and now its about even! And of course the car steers so smoothly now...like it completely changed how the car drives. I am pretty sure my balljoints were bad for the 3 years i have owned the car, because it has never driven this smooth before.

That's it for the summer. Nothing too major, not enough time or money to do anything major at the moment. The next mods are going to be CAI/Plenum/TB, and then I think I am going to save up my money for some cams to install next summer. But we will see what happens.

Thanks for reading!
~DMD
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Old 09-02-2013, 01:42 AM   #41
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Fall 2013

To start off the fall (its september now which is the fall in my book), I did a little mod that I have been wanting to do for a while now.

These J&M stainless steel brake lines were on sale on LMR so I pulled the trigger on em. I have wanted to make the upgrade to SS lines for a while, because I dont have ABS having a more precise pedal feel is important.



Installing the lines went really smoothly, no issues occurred. The old lines came off easily and the J&M lines are a perfect fit. And they look freaking sexy!



I ran into some trouble after the install though. I went to bleed the brakes, and I bled them wrong. It was pretty late and I was tired/not thinking straight.

Then I decided while I had the wheels off, I was gonna put some disc brake quiet on them. Well when I did the passenger side, I seated the pad wrong and ended up ruining the pad.

So today, I got new pads and put them back together, and everything seems in order now. The brakes feel great! I can threshold brake much more efficiently now and form what I can tell, I can stop a lot faster now just because I have much better feel in the pedal.

The old lines weren't very precise at all, and I would often end up just locking the tires up. It is definitely easier to threshold brake with the SS lines. Definitely worth the $60 I paid, and Late Model Restoration was awesome, super fast shipping and good pricing.

So if you are thinking of getting SS lines, I would definitely recommend the upgrade, particularly if you dont have ABS.
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:04 AM   #42
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Hey man, nice thread! I have a 98 GT and I have some problems: Steering wheel shakes while braking, my mach 460 sound system is very static and quiet while playing music and can barely hear it when volume is 100%.
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:32 AM   #43
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Hey man, nice thread! I have a 98 GT and I have some problems: Steering wheel shakes while braking, my mach 460 sound system is very static and quiet while playing music and can barely hear it when volume is 100%.
If it shakes while braking, you probably need to replace the pads and rotors. Or at least have the rotors turned if they are not too bad.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:13 AM   #44
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If it shakes while braking, you probably need to replace the pads and rotors. Or at least have the rotors turned if they are not too bad.
Shaking when applying brakes = brake pulsation ( Rotors only ) just go get them resurfaced at a shop
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:29 AM   #45
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Hey man, nice thread! I have a 98 GT and I have some problems: Steering wheel shakes while braking, my mach 460 sound system is very static and quiet while playing music and can barely hear it when volume is 100%.
As for the Mach system have your alternator checked out, mine did this and it had an open diode
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:53 PM   #46
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Thanks!
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:58 AM   #47
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All their^ advice is good advice for the brake problem/sound system problem. I would definitely check your rotors before anything else.

And a quick fix, in the Summer 2013 post there is a broken link to a photo, it was supposed to be this photo:



Just shows some really bad blow-by on the old engine's pistons. The oil rings were bad on every single piston...just goes to show what happens if you dont take care of a car/engine.
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Old 10-19-2013, 03:31 PM   #48
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Well today my car blew out spark plug #3 and obviously the threads in the head are gone. So I have to weigh my options with how to fix it. I'll get some pics of it later. I'm definitely going to need to rethread the head, I need a new coil, and I need a new spark plug.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:58 PM   #49
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Well today my car blew out spark plug #3 and obviously the threads in the head are gone. So I have to weigh my options with how to fix it. I'll get some pics of it later. I'm definitely going to need to rethread the head, I need a new coil, and I need a new spark plug.
I thought you couldn't rethread our heads? I thought you have to sleeve them.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:23 PM   #50
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I thought you couldn't rethread our heads? I thought you have to sleeve them.
Well yeah that's what I meant I can sleeve it or helicoil it. I may just leave the car in the garage for the winter (and fix some other stuff like the steering rack) and save up for new heads entirely because I don't want to have to worry about blowing a spark plug every time I drive the car.

Plus I don't even know if the engine is still good. I don't know if anything got sucked into the cylinder when the plug went and so for all I know the whole engine could need to be taken down and rebuilt
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:25 PM   #51
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Well yeah that's what I meant I can sleeve it or helicoil it. I may just leave the car in the garage for the winter (and fix some other stuff like the steering rack) and save up for new heads entirely because I don't want to have to worry about blowing a spark plug every time I drive the car. Plus I don't even know if the engine is still good. I don't know if anything got sucked into the cylinder when the plug went and so for all I know the whole engine could need to be taken down and rebuilt
I blew plug three on my '02 2v and just unplugged the injector and drove it nearly 20 miles to a shop to get it sleeved.. They didn't find anything wrong, sleeved it for about $250 and I picked my car up the next day.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:38 PM   #52
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I blew plug three on my '02 2v and just unplugged the injector and drove it nearly 20 miles to a shop to get it sleeved.. They didn't find anything wrong, sleeved it for about $250 and I picked my car up the next day.
Did you damage the plugs or coil? The end of my coil was all ripped apart and I don't know if any of the pieces fell into the engine. I kind of want to use this as an excuse to keep the car garage for the winter and I can work on it and save up for upgrades while I'm saving money on gas.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:43 PM   #53
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Did you damage the plugs or coil? The end of my coil was all ripped apart and I don't know if any of the pieces fell into the engine. I kind of want to use this as an excuse to keep the car garage for the winter and I can work on it and save up for upgrades while I'm saving money on gas.
Yeah. Shredded the COP. But I had an extra one for some reason. Lol
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:56 AM   #54
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The correct way to repair the thread is with the Ford time sert kit. I also think I remember seeing a do it your self basic kit on American muscle.
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:37 PM   #55
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The correct way to repair the thread is with the Ford time sert kit. I also think I remember seeing a do it your self basic kit on American muscle.
It looks like I'm going to be picking up a borescope so I can check out my cylinder walls and make sure nothing got damaged, and then I'm gonna pick up a Time Sert kit and then I can just fix this quickly. I can also fix all my friends 2vs too when this happens to there's.

I've gone 24 hours without my car and I already miss it
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:08 PM   #56
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Fall 2013 (continued)

To continue the Fall 2013 portion of the build thread, I'll start off with a photoshoot I did with my friend and his 99 GT.







Alright so one of the first things that happened was I broke my driver's side mirror:



I decided to replace both side view mirrors because I'd rather keep them the same and have them replaced at the same time. I also attempted to replace my rear brake pads and rotors (more details on that in a moment)



So with the rear rotors, I have Eibach 25mm spacers on the rear of the car. Unfortunately when I was swapping the differential, I got a little trigger happy with their impact gun. It was an impact made for working on big diesel trucks and Im used to the little one I have at home.

But long story short, I hammered the lugs on waaaay too hard with the impact. The rear spacers are now stuck on, as I could not get a single one off. I actually broke a socket trying to do so. You can kind of see the now-stripped lugs on the spacers.

So the rotors did not get replaced but the pads did.



While I had the car in the air with all the wheels off, I cleaned out and waxed the inside of the rims. I will probably repeat this every summer from now on.

Before:


After:


On a side note, I just want to show how much of a difference the subframe connectors make on these convertibles. I had my car jacked up by the rear passanger side jack point and the whole car was lifted and almost perfectly straight....before the whole car would be twisted and mangled.



Next, I did probably the BEST mod I have ever done. I bought the cup holders off of a 99-01 mustang, painted them to match my car, and installed them. The 99-01 cup holders are wider and deeper than the stock 98 cupholders. Now I can actually bring a drink into my car almost...



One weekend my girlfriend and I decided to run to the junkyard, I needed to find a steering rack. My steering has been really messed up, the car seems to drift around by itself and it likes to wander with divots in the road. It's for sure not the balljoints since they are brand new, so I am left to believe it's either the rack or the bushings.

I didn't find a steering rack at the junkyard, but I did find a really nice trunk lid and got it for a steal (I think $25 out the door). My trunk lid is very badly rusting and i will need a new one some day, and I couldnt pass this one up. It'll need a repaint, but the bumper needs a repaint as well so I will just do them at the same time.



I also purchased some Maximum Motorsports solid steering rack bushings. I haven't installed them yet but they will go on the car eventually once I get everything running right again:




Alright so now for the bad. I already posted it up in this thread but around mid-fall, I blew a spark plug out of cylinder 3. The car sat for a month while I decided what I wanted to do. Here's the damage to the plug and coil.



I checked the inside of the cylinder with a borescope to see if there was any damage. The cylinder walls seemed to be okay and I didn't see any loose chunks of metal or anything in the cylinder.



I was originally going to purchase a Time-Sert kit and repair the head myself, however the tool alone costs around $400. My dad knows a reliable machinist (same one who drilled and tapped my new engine's intake crossover for the swap to work) that already had the Time-Sert kit. He offered to do the job for around $200 which I couldnt pass up.

Taking the car to the shop to get ressurected :')



I finally got the car back after a couple weeks (the machinist didnt have time to work on my car for a couple weeks). The car ran okay, but it seems like it hasnt ran the same ever since. At low RPMs, it makes a humming/groaning type noise. It seems more prominant from standstill in 1st gear, but will still do it in 2nd.

Also occasionally when I start the car, it knocks REALLY loudly. Usually just three or four knocks and it stops, so the first few detonations are making it knock for some reason. I am hoping it is an isue with timing or electrical and not something worse.

Im still trying to figure out the issue at this moment.

Winter 2013/2014



As of now, the car is for the most part garaged for the winter. I've been keeping her inside on wet/snowy days and have only driven it once or twice when it was dry.

She did get snowed on once, but I got her inside before they salted anything!



Around Christmas time, the mod bug was biting me. I asked for a trickflow plenum for Christmas and bought myself some 24lb-hr Ford Racing injectors.



And I got the plenum too!



Installing everything was a breeze, really simple overall. I managed to install the injectors without removing the fuel rail because I left my fuel/AC line disconnector tools at my dad's shops. I also did a quick "port and polish" job on the plenum just to smooth it out inside, but I seriously doubt it made any difference. Just peace of mind for my sake.

Progress shot on the install:



Here's the old injectors too, stock 19lbers


And the plenum installed, she's beautiful! Alot better than the old dented up stock one. I opted for the black coated one just to be different. Im not a fan of flashy chrome everywhere in the engine bay.



And that sums everything up for the winter so far. Today I am about to go pick up a set of extra wheels that have Blizzaks on them for the rest of the winter, if I do decide to take the car out of the garage.

I plan to get a couple of videos of the noises the car makes as I described at the end of the Fall 2013 section. I will post them up as soon as I get them.

As usual, thanks a lot for reading and I hope you enjoyed!
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:28 PM   #57
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Hey I was wondering where you got those tail lights I have a 1995 I would love to put those on thanks
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:27 AM   #58
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Waxing the inside of your wheels is interesting. Never thought of that. Ill try it when I paint my calipers.
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:35 AM   #59
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and for that i thank you another american muscle treasure saved from the scrap yard and for future generations to enjoy! nice story u did good to the car would not believe u if you told me it was the same car
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:02 AM   #60
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Hey I was wondering where you got those tail lights I have a 1995 I would love to put those on thanks

These are the stock taillights that come on the 97/98 mustangs. You can probably find some on craigslist or a junkyard, and I could be wrong but it's my understanding that it is a direct swap between the old sideways lights that came on the older SN95s and the new ones. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


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Waxing the inside of your wheels is interesting. Never thought of that. Ill try it when I paint my calipers.

Yeah I'm not sure if it is going to really do anything or not but I figured I'd give it a shot. Inside of the rims still look good as she sits not but I haven't really driven the car that much.


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and for that i thank you another american muscle treasure saved from the scrap yard and for future generations to enjoy! nice story u did good to the car would not believe u if you told me it was the same car

It's my pleasure to keep an American car on the road and thank you I appreciate it, I'm just happy all this work has paid off! Even though this body style mustang isn't the "coolest" or most popular, people do still appreciate it and I still get compliments on it at car shows and stuff. Thanks again!

Here's a little exhaust clip of the car as she sits today. I took her out to get the fluids moving and keep everything running right, I dont like letting the car sit. I just decided to do a quick exhaust clip after:

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Old 02-05-2014, 11:20 PM   #61
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Today I noticed something that really bothered me about the Trickflow plenum. It has this really cool Trickflow logo etched into the top of the plenum, but its the same unfinished aluminum as the surrounding area. This makes it very hard to read from far away...far away being right in front of the car lol.

So today I found some high heat barbecue spray paint (matte black), and decided to fix it!

Pretty simple to do, clean the are with soapy water, and wash off the soap with water. Dry it, mask it off, and make a couple passes making sure to fill in the lettering most importantly. The barbecue paint is meant for bare metal and no primer is needed.

Let it dry, then remove the masking tape. now get some fine grit sand paper, and sand the top of the plenum. Obviously all the paint except for the paint in the indented lettering will be removed from sanding, giving a final product that looks like this:





I apologize the pictures aren't the best quality. It was pretty hard to get a clear picture in the dark. But yeah took literally 10 minutes to do not including the drying times. For some reason the black lettering makes all the difference for me...way better now.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:45 PM   #62
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I've done a lot of stuff to the car since I last updated. I've just been too busy to post it.

But, unfortunately, the journey with my car ended today. Lesson learned, don't drive on 4 hours of sleep. Luckily nobody was injured and everyone walked away from the collision.

She's totaled and I'm not sure what's going to happen next. I don't really have the funds for a new car and I don't think I'm going to be able to get much for this one.

This is honestly one of the saddest days of my life. Can't really put it into words. An end of an era for me

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3.73 gears, Auburn LSD, TA diff cover, MM FLSFCs, Ford Strut Tower Brace, J&M SS Brake Lines, and a lot of visual/restoration work.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:49 PM   #63
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Sorry to hear about this man, you have put a lot of work into this car. Hopefully you can part some of it and make some money.

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Old 04-16-2015, 11:22 PM   #64
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I'm very Sorry to hear. Maybe you can part it out and make out better that way?

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Old 04-16-2015, 11:58 PM   #65
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Yeah I will most likely part it out and get the most for my money that way. Just recently put $400 into the diff and $400 into the clutch...kinda a shame.

I'm hoping the engine isn't totally trashed although I saw some pieces of a valve cover which isn't a good sign

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Old 04-17-2015, 07:46 AM   #66
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dude, that really sucks. this is like watching a happy movie with a sudden sad ending. I haven't read this thread until today, and that ending tho...

either way, there will be other cars. Glad to hear your okay. I'm sure there will be other fun builds in your future. A part out should get you some money, unless you decide to get another 98 for cheap, then you have a bunch of upgrades ready to use, and a possible motor.
good luck.
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:06 PM   #67
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Well I spent today taking some stuff apart and the damage is not as bad as I originally thought, definitely not totaled. No damage to anything structural and the car is still straight as far as I could tell. I'm going to measure stuff out and make sure its still even.

And the best part is she still runs i reset the fuel cutoff and she started right up. Engine sprayed power steering fluid everywhere but she ran!

Current plans are to find a donor v6/GT roller to take the front clip off of nothing has stopped me from fixing the car before, why should this?

Here's the ride home with the car on the trailer:
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Bumper removed:
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I just can't part with this car lol

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Old 04-19-2015, 09:09 PM   #68
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Nice. The legend continues.

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Old 04-20-2015, 12:43 AM   #69
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That is some good news! You should be able to find a donor fairly easy if you keep your eye out or keep hitting the local pick n pulls. Hell even a new bumper cover and parts like that aren't that badly priced even new, I know you need more than that but just saying.

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Old 04-29-2015, 11:59 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve96 View Post
That is some good news! You should be able to find a donor fairly easy if you keep your eye out or keep hitting the local pick n pulls. Hell even a new bumper cover and parts like that aren't that badly priced even new, I know you need more than that but just saying.

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Yup I've been pricing around and I'm probably going to end up getting new aftermarket fenders/core support/bumper. I know they won't be as good as OEM but I'll be able to make them work. And they're soooo cheap brand new.


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Here's how she sits right now. I'm really lucky, the damage doesn't seem to have affected anything past the core support. I honestly dont think the frame even needs to be pulled. Axle to axle measurements are the same on both sides.

Another thing that's going to be a pain to figure out is the airbags. I want to install new airbags obviously but I'm not exactly sure how to set everything up and what exactly needs to be replaced. Just one more learning experience I guess lol

Also picked up a Cervinis Cobra R hood off Craigslist. Can't wait to see the car finished and painted with the new hood.

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Here's a test fit on the car. Obviously doesn't look too great with the fenders just hanging there and not lined up lol but just wanted to get an idea of what it'd look like.

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3.73 gears, Auburn LSD, TA diff cover, MM FLSFCs, Ford Strut Tower Brace, J&M SS Brake Lines, and a lot of visual/restoration work.
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