The Evolution/Future Build of My Car (Tons of Pics and Vids) - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-29-2013, 12:27 AM   #1
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The Evolution/Future Build of My Car (Tons of Pics and Vids)

I posted this on another Mustang forum and I thought I would post it here as well. Like it says in here, I hope this can be sort of a "technical" post where I can help anyone with any problems they have doing similar mods to their cars.

If you have a 98 GT and you are having a problem, I have probably had that same problem. So ask me!




I have been working on this write up for quite a long time now, almost two months (finding all of the pictures I wanted has been a royal pain). And it is pretty good timing because it seems everyone is posting one of these up right now. This is meant to timeline my car, and includes everything I have done to the car, not just performance/visual mods.

I kind of invision this as a thread that people can look at, and ask for any help with similar mods or problems they have with their car. So I am hoping that people will ask for help!

Also note, that when I use the first person (I, me, myself, etc.), I am really referring to myself and my dad. Without his help, none of this would be possible. I cannot express enough how much I have enjoyed working on the car with him. For the simplicity of the post, I use "I", but my dad was just as much a part of this as I was. We have bonded so much over this car and I love him to death.

The Car

I call her Roxanne. The car is a 1998 Mustang GT Convertible with a 5-speed. It is Silver with a black top, black interior. I bought it when I was 15 years old, in the summer of 2010. The car seemed to be good at the time of purchase, but ended up having a lot more wrong with it than i expected (which i will detail here).

Here's the first couple shots I took after the first clean.




and the engine bay:


First Impressions

My first impressions, the sound was nice, but the wheels looked pretty bad (i mean, deep dishes on the front? just wrong).

I learned to drive stick on the car, but the clutch was pretty much garbage, had to push it to the floor to disengage and it made a ton of racket. The synchros was also pretty far gone, but it was drivable. Also, the car seemed to spew blue smoke on startup. The top would not go up/down automatically either, such a buzzkill.

I liked the exhaust because it had a catless H-pipe, a good choice in my opinion. It was using the stock tubing with an aftermarket muffler behind that ("XLerator Turbo Muffler" was the brand). I am very glad that it came with the light bar on it already, as that was one of the things that completed the look of the vert to me. Also, it had FRPP Lowering Springs on it which have the perfect amount of drop for me.


Fall 2010

So initially, there were problems that needed immediate fixing. First up, the latch that attaches to the trunk lid was broken off entirely. My guess is that the car got broken into or hit in the back. All I had to do was weld it back on.
(it still doesn't look too good, you can also see the rust in that picture. New trunk lid will come once money permits).



I sprayed the bottom of the car for rust. Here's a picture of the before, not too bad, but it is worse in some other spots.



Next I sprayed tinted the headlights and tailights. It turned out nicely but ended up fading (so the taillights need to be redone as well).




I changed the rear struts and the fuel filter. I dont have pics of this, but who cares nobody wants to see that anyways. The rear struts were so bad I couldn't even drive the car basically...so those needed to be changed.

So now for the worst part of the car- the engine ticking. Some of you may remember me trying to narrow down what the tick was. The ticking wasn't there when I bought the car...but about two weeks later it showed up.



For now I had to live with the ticking though, the engine ran fine.

Winter 2010

Winter 2010 was a pretty low-mod time for me. The car was driveable and I didn't want to work on anything in the cold. I was also doing Varsity Swimming which took up all of my time.

I did two major things to the car though.

First off, I replaced the headunit from some old/low end unit to a nice new shiny one. I put a Kenwood KIV-700 in. Looks really clean and the controls are extremely simple. It is one of the best aftermarket headunits I have ever used.

I wired the iPod connector into the center compartment to keep it all clean and to give me access to the iPod. The new headunit did a good job of tuning out the tick as well lol.



Now for the sad part. Somebody decided that they were jealous of my car...or something. They slashed a tire, cut the top, and keyed the side. I don't understand how somebody can do this to a car, especially mine (which wasn't even that nice). But such is life.

I claimed insurance on it and got a nice chunk of change. Putting new 18x10.5" tires on the stock rims would have been way too much money, and so I used the opportunity to buy a new set of rims.

They are off of a 2001 Cobra, and I think they match perfectly with the car.




That's it for Winter 2010.

Spring 2011

For Spring 2011, the first thing I did was a K&N Air Filter and I shortened the antenna. I don't have any pics but we've all done these two mods. The car actually came with a K&N filter...but it was the wrong size. It was way too small and a lot wider than the correct size.

Next, I put in sequential tail lights. These are a feature of mustangs that I absolutely love and I had to have them on my car.



Next I put that insurance money to good use and I got myself a trans out of a wrecked car (had ~17k on it at the time) and a new clutch. The clutch was nothing special, better than stock though. Money was tight to cover it all with the insurance money.

This tick haunted my dreams for too long. No matter what I tried...it ticked. I tried all sorts of magical oil additives, with no luck (no surprise lol). So I had to crack open the engine. What I ended up doing is replacing the lash adjusters, rocker arms, and valve seals.

As a side note, let me just mention that replacing the valve seals may easily be the scariest thing you can do to your engine. you have to remove the retaining clips off the valve, and the only thing keeping the valve from falling into your engine is air pressure...





Those are all the old parts. The valve seals were totally shot. The rubber is probably just as hard as the metal part. This soved the blue smoke issue. The lash adjusters and rocker arms did next to nothing, the tick was a strong as ever. I decided to seafoam it just to see what would happen lol...



And once again the tick never stopped. I had to live with the ticking for the time being. So on to the other stuff...

One last little fix, the parking brake light wouldnt come on when I pulled the e-brake. So I just removed the switch and sanded all the connections. Fixed the problem.

Summer 2011

The Summer of 2011 was all restoration. No pics of any of this, but this was all the grimey, greasy work that is pretty unsatisfying. It is unsatisfying because you're working on your car to fix someone elses abuse, and it wont make the car any faster.

First, before the heat kicked in, I put a new A/C Compressor and Condenser on. The first compressor ended up blowing up, it was a made in china piece. I got a rebuilt Ford compressor and it has been good since.

I put Tie-Rod Ends, Front Struts, and new Rotors/Pads on the front brakes, and pads on the back. No pictures, but nothing too special here. I discovered that all the calipers need to be rebuilt or replaced, but it isn't too bad. Also take note that my ABS had been acting up big time, it tripped way too soon. So my Dad broke the sensor entirely, rendering the whole system useless (ABS shuts off completely in the case of a broken sensor). I like it better without ABS anyways.

Next I put new top cylinders on the convertible top, and filled it up with Dextron. The top works beautifully now, the top cylinder was just leaking.

The hood latch cable busted (the handle just pulled right out with a bunch of frayed wires on the end. I hated my car this day lol. So I put a replacement on, was an easy fix.

Lastly, I put some black "Mustang GT" lettering on the bumper, which you can see in this video:




Fall/Winter 2011

I bought some parts off a parts car, I got all of the trunk interior pieces and put them into my car. I also got the strut tower brace off the car (which wouldnt go on until later).

The engine catastrophically failed sometime in the fall. I was cruising at ~20 mph down a side street and I heard one of the worst noises in my life. It was a metal-on-metal shrieking noise. The gauges on the dash went insane and flickered all over and the engine died. The engine would still run...but it continued to make that god awful noise. I drove it home and parked it, and the hunt for an engine started.

I was really hoping to find a DOHC to drop in there. I looked at a few but the deal never went through on any of them. One guy couldn't get his to run...and another just wanted too much for his. I ended up settling on a dusty SOHC out of a 2001. It had been pulled from the car 2-3 years prior and the guy needed it out of his garage. I paid $400 for it.

The engine has a little Ford Rebuild plate on it, so my dad called up Ford and had them run the code. Ford said it was out of an 01 Mustang GT, and estimated the mileage to be ~40k (which is what the seller said). It was still a huge risk though because we didn't know if the engine ran.



After I cleaned the engine up, turned out to be quite a good looking piece



The process began of the engine swap! It ended up taking me ~4 monthes to do. I kept the 98's return fuel system, and I kept the COPs on the new engine (it looks much cleaner). I had to make my own wiring harness to accomodate the COPs. I also opted to drill/tap a hole for the 98's second temperature sensor. I got the 8-bolt flywheel that came on the 2001 engine resurfaced (the only work I didn't do myself).

I also cleaned the crap out of all the coolant parts and everything I was going to reuse. I didn't want any of the old 98 engine grime in the new one.

Engine is out!


And the new one's in!


I also put a new pinion seal on my differential, as the stock one was leaking (as you can sort of see in the picture).



The engine did not start right up though. I had a minuscule short in the wiring harness I made, and it was driving the PATS insane. I guess the car thought I was trying to steal it. I managed to bipass the PATS system and get the engine to crank. It started up, but ran very rough. It was pretty disappointing.

I got the car put back together and got it on the ground. I decided to drive it home even when it was running rough. I put some good gas into the fuel tank and drove it home. On the way home, something sort of...popped. I can't describe it, but the engine just started to run like it was brand new. My guess is the injectors were clogged from sitting so long. This was one of the most amazing moments of my life, the engine has so much more power than the old one.

I threw on a FRPP Shift knob that I got for christmas as a mini-celebration for having my car running:

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Old 01-29-2013, 12:28 AM   #2
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Spring/Summer 2012


The engine still needed to be tuned, however. It was being run as if it was a 98, and to my understanding the timing is a bit different between the two engines

So in celebration of getting a job at Starbucks, I splurged and bought this:



And that helped the engine run perfectly and got me a few extra HP.

Two videos of the new engine, still running the original exhaust:





Now the car was ready for all the performance mods I always dreamed of getting. To start, the sexiest shifter in the world, the MGW. I cannot express in words how much nicer the car felt after the Short Shifter. It felt like a brand new car, honestly.



For high school Graduation, my Mom and Dad went out on a limb and got me a Magnaflow Cat-Back exhaust. This was an amazing gift and it is my favorite cat-back. Here's a video to hear the difference:




View of the Magnaflow Tips:



Other minor things I did in the Summer of 2012 are the slower turn signal flasher, the stock was just too fast for me. And I fixed my Odometer, which had broken at some point and I never got around to fixing it.

Here's how she sat at the end of the summer:






Fall 2012

I was much happier with my car's performance now with the few mods I did to it over the summer. So I went for some visual modifications.

I got some Hoonigan license plate frames and LED trunk lid lights to replace the yellowing incandescents.

Because Im not already attracting the cops enough:


I bought a Chin Spoiler, which my Dad installed while I was away at school:


I converted my interior to full LED lighting, the guages and the map lights. It felt a little bit ricer putting LEDs in...but everything looks 10x cleaner so I didn't mind. Also note the car was throwing a code at the time that turned out to be nothing (knock on wood):


Next, I decided it was time to fix something that annoyed the crap out of me. The rear fender on the SN95 hangs over the rear wheels like a giant muffin top. And it looks really stupid. I wanted to get 10.5's in the rear, but nobody makes a 2001 Cobra rim in 10.5. So I opted for Eibach Wheel Spacers, 25mm:




I put anti-seize between the spacer and the rotor, and I lock tighted all of the lugs on it. I torqued, and re-torqued, and re-torqued again to make sure the spacers aren't going to fall off.

Lastly, I installed the strut tower brace that had been sitting for about a year. It improved cornering slightly but it could just be in my mind. It definitely wasn't a drastic change. Looks sick though. Here's a comparison between the original engine bay and the Fall 2012 engine bay:



Here's a quick video I made of the car. Just wanted something to watch later when I was in North Carolina for college, and away from my car



Winter 2012

Winter 2012, so now basically. I pretty much went insane with mods. I am back from NC for good now. So what I have done so far is pretty extensive.

First I put seats into my car, they are out of a 2004 GT. The 98 seats were in rough shape, one had a tear in it:



New seats are much more comfortable, they hold you better. They also smell a lot better, they smell like new leather. What blows is someone must have had something in their pocket, and they ripped a small hle in the passanger bolster so now I have to get that fixed.



Next I put Maximum Motorsports Full Length Subframe Connectors in. I welded them in myself, and my god what a difference they made. The car is so much less noisey and so much more nimble.



I swapped out the crappy walmart floormats I had for some OEM Cobra floormats out of a smashed 95. They are my winter floormats:



Next I decided it was time to fix the messed up idle. It was annoying the crap out of me, it would rev up when I shifted and took like two hours to rev down. I put a new IAC valve (Borg & Warner) and I made a restrictor.

Old IAC:


Restrictor:


This actually made my car louder. I videotaped both with and without the restrictor and compared the sound levels. The restrictor made it louder for some reason. And it completely fixed the idle, it revs down quickly now.

I put Mach 1/Bullit wtyle pedals on my car that I got for Christmas. I also adjusted my gas pedal height so now it is in the optimal position for me. I got it to the perfect height where the pedal isnt in the way when im normally breaking, but it is in the perfect spot to heel-toe shift.



And then I put some Cobra style headlights, the ones off AM that have a smoked mirror but clear lenses. Being able to see at night is no longer something I have trouble with.

I also got new summer floormats which are still in the box, as it is not summer.

Here's the car as she sits today.





And a video I made two days ago just to test out my GoPro camera. Apparently I suck at using it because it didn't record any audio (luckily I have audio from the other camera I was using).



So that is the restoration and evolution of my car from start to now. I am going to post more pictures up of the engine swap later but I need to locate them first.

Future Build

So now, I am going to list off the things I want to do in the future:

-First and foremost, 3.73 gears. the 2.73s are not cutting it.
-C&L Plenum
-Edelbrock 75mm T/B
-JLT CAI
-24lb Ford Injectors
-Rebuild brakes
-MM CC Plates
-FRPP Steering Wheel (mine is pretty worn)
-35% Tint All the way around

My dream mods:
-Supercharge (Vortech V2)
-or- Cams (haven't decided yet)
-Dyno tune
-MM Panhard bar/torque arm
-MM lower control arms
-Better Clutch
-Lightweight flywheel/driveshaft
-Kooks Longtube Headers with a shorty H-pipe
-1995 Cobra R Hood

Restoration:
-New Ebrake cable
-New sun-visors
-New sideview mirrors
-New door hinge on the drivers side
-Clean up a few interior pieces
-New side Emblems (mine are chipped)
-new trunklid (mine is rusty for some strange reason)
-Eliminate this annoying dashboard clicking
-Insulate Interior with dynamat or HVAC insulation
-finish spray painting the bottom of the car
-New latch for center console compartment
-New rocker panel retainer clips

-And fixing anything else that brakes



Thank you everyone for reading! I hoped you enjoyed and I hope you like the car. If you have any questions, ask away! There are probably some things I have forgotten that I will update or add later.

Also, If you actually read this whole post, props to you, you deserve a Klondike bar.

I will be updating this thread frequently with more pictures and videos of my future mods.

Thanks again and happy modding.

~DutchManDann
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:51 AM   #3
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Props to you. I did read the whole thing. Instead of giving up, or paying a garage you and Dad stuck with it over the long haul and you learned a lot of skills while fixing her up. Took a risk with that engine, glad it worked out for you. Did you do a compression check before you bought it? Buy now you pretty much must know the car inside and out, and that puts you way ahead of many car owners. I have a 96 SVT Cobra with 44K miles on it. I found it interesting that adding the sub frame connectors really quoted your car up. Maybe you can expound a little more about what noises it got rid of. That's something I may want to do. Have you run the BAMA Tune on it yet? If so, how much performance improvement did you see? You may need a new computer to match the 2001 engine, not sure. If you do I know a guy here in PA who pulls and tests them from salvage yards. I had to buy one when mine went south last summer. Look forward to your future posts. Spiney-Dave
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:50 AM   #4
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Car looks great, nice progression.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:18 PM   #5
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Looking foward to more posts as well i have a 96 with pi swap and future plans are turbo upgrade but i love how u stuck with the car i had mine now for 5 going on 6 with 99k on it dialy driven however once the mod bug bites it wont stop lol and i got 10.5 cobra rims however not sure what year they replicate lol but its on my profile and sig
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o/r x-pipe flow master 40 series dump downs, cai/ram intake, 75mm c&l throttle body and plenum, pi heads and intake swap, msd wires, stock gears, untuned at the moment, no dyno numbers for now.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:50 PM   #6
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Props to you. I did read the whole thing. Instead of giving up, or paying a garage you and Dad stuck with it over the long haul and you learned a lot of skills while fixing her up. Took a risk with that engine, glad it worked out for you. Did you do a compression check before you bought it? Buy now you pretty much must know the car inside and out, and that puts you way ahead of many car owners. I have a 96 SVT Cobra with 44K miles on it. I found it interesting that adding the sub frame connectors really quoted your car up. Maybe you can expound a little more about what noises it got rid of. That's something I may want to do. Have you run the BAMA Tune on it yet? If so, how much performance improvement did you see? You may need a new computer to match the 2001 engine, not sure. If you do I know a guy here in PA who pulls and tests them from salvage yards. I had to buy one when mine went south last summer. Look forward to your future posts. Spiney-Dave
It was quite a risk with the new engine, we didn't check the compression. We just checked to see if the flywheel would turn and it did.

The reason my car is quieter with the subframe connectors is because it is a convertible. The Vert has a LOT of body flex from the factory, and this flex results in creaks and groans from the car. All of the plastic panels rubbing on eachother and such. Much of this noise was deadened with the FLSFCs. The car is much tighter and handles better too, less body roll.

I have run the BAMA tuner, I use the 93 octane. It runs really nicely. You don't need the computer out of the 2001, they can just adjust that A/F ratios and timing on the 98 computer. I saw quite a decent performance gain, you could feel it for sure. The power seemed more readily available with the tune in.

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Car looks great, nice progression.
Thank you!

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Originally Posted by 1996mustang View Post
Looking foward to more posts as well i have a 96 with pi swap and future plans are turbo upgrade but i love how u stuck with the car i had mine now for 5 going on 6 with 99k on it dialy driven however once the mod bug bites it wont stop lol and i got 10.5 cobra rims however not sure what year they replicate lol but its on my profile and sig
Very cool, good luck with the turbo! I would love to F/I mine as well. And I believe you have the 95 cobra style rims. Mine are the 99/01 Aluminum rims that literally nobody makes. Unfortunately they match my car perfectly...lol
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:55 PM   #7
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UPDATE

Here's a few more pictures to add to the build. They are all pictures of the engine swap except for two of me welding.

Car in the air, ready for a new engine:


Transmission is out!



Old Engine vs the New Engine:



The Easy way to install a Clutch:



New Engine, all chained up and ready to be installed:




My Dad and I after a successful engine swap:



The first drive with the new engine! (Top Down of course):



Learning how to weld on some scrap metal so I could install the subframe connectors:

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Old 01-29-2013, 10:11 PM   #8
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i have a question for you, out of what did you make the restrictor and where do you put it on the iac, im having a little issue with my idle and would love to test out a restrictor. and how did you go about making it?
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:30 PM   #9
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i have a question for you, out of what did you make the restrictor and where do you put it on the iac, im having a little issue with my idle and would love to test out a restrictor. and how did you go about making it?
Go to home depot or menards, and buy a 1/2" Copper Pipe End. should cost about $.40

drill a hole in the cap as seen in my picture, I drilled a 1/4" Hole and it worked pretty well for me. Make sure there are no sharp edges around the hole, otherwise it might whistle. Also, if you use a 1/4" hole, and the engine dies when you start it up, just take out the restrictor and drill out a slightly bigger hole.

You put the restrictor inbetween the IAC Silencer box and the IAC valve itself.

The IAC Silencer Box is the black rectangular box that is right on top of your engine. It connects the IAC to the air filter. There is a small piece of tubing that connects the box to your IAC valve. Put the restrictor in this piece of tubing.

I will post some pictures later of where everything goes tomorrow if you would like. Hope this helped!
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:45 PM   #10
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i look foward to seeing some pics, i will however in the meantime b4 i go to work go to home depot and get the fitting so i can drill it out and have it ready.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:55 PM   #11
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NIBCO 1/2 in. Copper Tube Cap C617 at The Home Depot

that is the cap that I used, and it works beautifully.

What is your idle doing that annoys you?
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:26 PM   #12
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Its idles alright takes forever to idle down and at times when idling for too long i start to sound like a carburated car with cams which by all means sounds f ing awesome however im not cammed yet lol
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o/r x-pipe flow master 40 series dump downs, cai/ram intake, 75mm c&l throttle body and plenum, pi heads and intake swap, msd wires, stock gears, untuned at the moment, no dyno numbers for now.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:32 PM   #13
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Its idles alright takes forever to idle down and at times when idling for too long i start to sound like a carburated car with cams which by all means sounds f ing awesome however im not cammed yet lol
Yeah that sounds exactly like what my car did. I will post some pictures up tomorrow. It's a really simple thing to put on and if you dont like it, you can just remove it, or if it is restricting too much (as in the idle falls too quickly) you can just make a bigger hole
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:52 AM   #14
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I'm sorry I gave up reading it lol, it's a lot to scroll through on my phone lol... But it does look like an awesome progression you had. Major props to you.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:10 PM   #15
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I'm sorry I gave up reading it lol, it's a lot to scroll through on my phone lol... But it does look like an awesome progression you had. Major props to you.
No worries, you can get the overall idea of the evolution just by looking at the pictures. And thank you very much.

Now for the Restrictor photos for 1996mustang:

This is the area you're looking at. It's the black box and the rubber tubing that connects to the IAC:


Pull the rubber tubing off of the IAC:


Pull the rubber tubing off of the black box:


You will have a short piece of rubber tubing. you place the restrictor in the midle of this piece of tubing:


And here is a picture of the restrictor inside the tube, and as you can see it is doing a wonderful job of restricting the aiflow:



Hope this helped!
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:59 PM   #16
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Absolutely hate to say this but my car is making that same ticking sound and kinda scared to take it to the shop to get the cost of what it will be. Be chance did you figure out what was causing it because I have yet to figure it out. I have tried everything you did beside seafoam. Btw mine is a 2000 gt
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:30 PM   #17
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Wow... Your story was very nice to read! It's stories like these that keep cars like this alive, that and lots of money. Big props from central IL!
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:49 PM   #18
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Absolutely hate to say this but my car is making that same ticking sound and kinda scared to take it to the shop to get the cost of what it will be. Be chance did you figure out what was causing it because I have yet to figure it out. I have tried everything you did beside seafoam. Btw mine is a 2000 gt
I have not found the source of the ticking yet. Once it is nicer out (spring) and my car can safely be kept out of the garage, I am going to pull my old engine apart at find the source of the tick.

If you can wait until spring, I will let you know when i pull the old engine apart. My guess is that it is either a bent valve guide or a wrist pin. You could always try swapping the lash adjusters/rocker arms for new ones. I think I recall someone on a different forum fixing a tick with lash adjusters.

But good luck with the ticking, I have been there and it sucks.


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Wow... Your story was very nice to read! It's stories like these that keep cars like this alive, that and lots of money. Big props from central IL!
Thank you! It has definitely been a project (and still is one!) but now that I am here it was worth every minute of it. And cheers from the Western Burbs of Chitown
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:00 PM   #19
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Suggestion for ticking sound. Buy a automotive stethoscope or try using a piece of tubing put it up to your ear. Then move it around the valve covers etc to isolate where the ticking is coming from. Could be as simple as an exhaust leak. Cheap first step.
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:04 AM   #20
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Alright I will try to find it. My isn't as loud as his was and it does when you idle it up. It all started when I was racing my buddy and missed a gear and it went in to low of a gear and over revved for a second but I quickly pulled it out of gear
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:19 AM   #21
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also I have taken it to 3 mechanic shops and everyone of them said they "THINK" it's a lifter stuck. And for me to just drive it that it would be fine. But I don't really think its a lifter
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:23 PM   #22
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Suggestion for ticking sound. Buy a automotive stethoscope or try using a piece of tubing put it up to your ear. Then move it around the valve covers etc to isolate where the ticking is coming from. Could be as simple as an exhaust leak. Cheap first step.
Yes this is a very good suggestion, if you can isolate where the noise is coming from, it will be much easier to diagnose what the problem is.


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Alright I will try to find it. My isn't as loud as his was and it does when you idle it up. It all started when I was racing my buddy and missed a gear and it went in to low of a gear and over revved for a second but I quickly pulled it out of gear
If it was from overrevving your engine it could very easily be valvetrain. Hearing that worries me though because over revving a car can really mess up the engine. If it still runs and isn't too loud youre probably ultimately okay though.


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also I have taken it to 3 mechanic shops and everyone of them said they "THINK" it's a lifter stuck. And for me to just drive it that it would be fine. But I don't really think its a lifter
I agree that it is unlikely a lifter (actually called lash adjusters on our cars). If you want to try and diagnose it, you could take your valve covers off and see if you can locate any issues with the valvetrain
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:29 PM   #23
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Wow thats alot of reading, but good luck. Looking good
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:22 PM   #24
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Yes this is a very good suggestion, if you can isolate where the noise is coming from, it will be much easier to diagnose what the problem is.

If it was from overrevving your engine it could very easily be valvetrain. Hearing that worries me though because over revving a car can really mess up the engine. If it still runs and isn't too loud youre probably ultimately okay though.

I agree that it is unlikely a lifter (actually called lash adjusters on our cars). If you want to try and diagnose it, you could take your valve covers off and see if you can locate any issues with the valvetrain
My car doesn't tick just idling but it does from around 2k rpm until I shift. It's not to loud but noticeable
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:41 AM   #25
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Sweet story! Keep up the good work. Props from me for sure.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:29 AM   #26
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Wow thats alot of reading, but good luck. Looking good
Thanks! Honestly you don't really have to read it to get the basic understanding of what I did to the car. Glad you like it though!

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Sweet story! Keep up the good work. Props from me for sure.
Thanks a lot!Hopefully the car will continue to get better and better with every mod (knock on wood, something will probably break now).

And just an update, I have access to a lift now whenever I need it, so once my tax return comes I am going to buy Ford Racing 3.73 gears. I was stuck between 3.55s and 3.73s but I'll probably just end up with the 3.73s unless I find a good deal on 3.55s on CL or something
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:33 AM   #27
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So update to the car, I finally got gears! Well, I actually got a whole rear axle. It is off of a 1996 GT that had ~60k on the odometer. The axle has 3.73 gears, an Auburn differential, and a TA girdle. I also got the ford racing speedo calibrator to adjust my speedometer to as close to perfect as I can get it (even now it is ~4 mph off)

I'm hoping to install it on Saturday. Hopefully it won't take too long, I get to use my lift for the first time as well.

Pics:

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Old 03-14-2013, 11:09 AM   #28
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Niceeeee. Can't wait to see it come together.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:38 PM   #29
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Thanks! I got swamped with hours at work so it probably won't go in for another two weeks unfortunately. I think I'm going to put LCAs on while I'm doing the swap
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:14 PM   #30
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Here's the car after an after-winter deep clean and waxing. I also fixed my rocker panels which were falling off.



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Old 03-30-2013, 12:00 AM   #31
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simply amazing man, that is a sweet ride, keep us updated it looks awesome.
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:00 AM   #32
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simply amazing man, that is a sweet ride, keep us updated it looks awesome.
Thanks a lot dude!

I'll post some videos of the car once the new diff is in, I'll probably do a before/after type thing
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:57 AM   #33
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No worries, you can get the overall idea of the evolution just by looking at the pictures. And thank you very much.

Now for the Restrictor photos for 1996mustang:

This is the area you're looking at. It's the black box and the rubber tubing that connects to the IAC:

Pull the rubber tubing off of the IAC:

Pull the rubber tubing off of the black box:

You will have a short piece of rubber tubing. you place the restrictor in the midle of this piece of tubing:

And here is a picture of the restrictor inside the tube, and as you can see it is doing a wonderful job of restricting the aiflow:

Hope this helped!
They sell a pre made plate and gasket set for this purpose on ebay for about $5. Ive had one for about a year not and make a world of difference.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:09 AM   #34
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That's awesome I hope I can do w story like that
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:42 AM   #35
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Amazing read, what a story... amazing car man amazing
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