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Old 02-03-2013, 03:57 PM   #1
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Timing gear

My timing gear is worn I guess and is causing the chain to jump. Is this possible. I just changed my plugs and I think I have major misfire and it's shaking my car and the chain is hopping at making a hitting noise
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:33 PM   #2
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It is more likely a chain guide/tensioner issue allowing the chain to slap. If the chain were "hopping" the valve timing would be off after one "hop", and after two or more the pistons would hit the valves and that would be it...
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:11 PM   #3
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How many miles is on your car?
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:36 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by jjsg09 View Post
How many miles is on your car?
^+1, also what do you know of the car's maintenance history? Changing the motor oil too infrequently can clog up the tensioners and eat up the guides...
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New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:29 PM   #5
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^+1, also what do you know of the car's maintenance history? Changing the motor oil too infrequently can clog up the tensioners and eat up the guides...
Yes this is true! A lot of people think it's ok to use 10w 30 on these engines. It is never good to go past 5w20 on a mod motor so if you have or in the past it could of clogged the tensioners and you might have a loose timing chain. Pop the valve covers off first check to see if the cam bolts aren't loose ( do this by hand it's a common problem ) then see if the chain is dangling. Does your engine sound like a diesel at all?
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:35 PM   #6
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Yes this is true! A lot of people think it's ok to use 10w 30 on these engines. It is never good to go past 5w20 on a mod motor so if you have or in the past it could of clogged the tensioners and you might have a loose timing chain. Pop the valve covers off first check to see if the cam bolts aren't loose ( do this by hand it's a common problem ) then see if the chain is dangling. Does your engine sound like a diesel at all?
I bought the car with 70K miles and the guy before me put 5w30 in the oil for the past few changes. Is that bad???
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:44 PM   #7
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I bought the car with 70K miles and the guy before me put 5w30 in the oil for the past few changes. Is that bad???
No. I run 10W-40 here in NE Florida in all our vehicles, my '03 GT has lived on it for 6+ years and 135k miles--changed every 2500 to 3000 miles. I do buy the 5W-20 thing and would not run it in a lawnmower here in Florida--but that's another discussion.

Which brings us 'round to the most important thing, which is how often was it changed?

In any event you will need to pull the cam covers as jjsg09 suggested--and "see what you can see"...
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Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:49 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jjsg09 View Post
How many miles is on your car?
76k

---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjsg09 View Post

Yes this is true! A lot of people think it's ok to use 10w 30 on these engines. It is never good to go past 5w20 on a mod motor so if you have or in the past it could of clogged the tensioners and you might have a loose timing chain. Pop the valve covers off first check to see if the cam bolts aren't loose ( do this by hand it's a common problem ) then see if the chain is dangling. Does your engine sound like a diesel at all?
I'll post a video of what it sounded like after I changed the plugs.
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2003 GT - full bolts ons, suspension, and drag radials
1998 cummins - 150hp injectors | FASS fuel kit | 4" straight pipe | 5" lift | BHAF | 20" wheels | edge juice w/ attitude | built auto trans with stall | closing in on 900tq | bigger turbo soon..

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Old 02-03-2013, 09:12 PM   #9
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Here is some good videos to see. Your car should not be having issues with timing at that many miles. These engines have those problems at higher miles. But good to check now before disaster. It's making me want to tear into mine next weekend to be on the safe side LOL!

http://youtu.be/z0sQFUgtyf0

http://youtu.be/HAQwkISqdGw
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:37 PM   #10
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I agree that at 76k miles it shouldn't have timing chain problems--doesn't mean it can't however. Very poor maintenance cold make it so. For example my son-in-law buys a new car for his business each year, and changes the engine oil maybe 2 or 3 times over 50k to 60k miles.

He is not the sort to change oil himself so he views it as unnecessary expense--his feeling being since he will not be driving it after two years it doesn't matter. God help the poor slob that buys it next...
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Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:22 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
I agree that at 76k miles it shouldn't have timing chain problems--doesn't mean it can't however. Very poor maintenance cold make it so. For example my son-in-law buys a new car for his business each year, and changes the engine oil maybe 2 or 3 times over 50k to 60k miles.

He is not the sort to change oil himself so he views it as unnecessary expense--his feeling being since he will not be driving it after two years it doesn't matter. God help the poor slob that buys it next...
Sounds like a wasteful individual. Not to sound rude. I one time had the pleasure of a customer that had bought a 1996 aerostar new and had changed the oil Once a year. That was in 2000. He wondered why he wasn't getting any oil pressure. Well the pan was full of gelatinous sludge. Yeah that Nice four year old car with a voided warranty and a bad engine. bummer.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:35 PM   #12
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Sounds like a wasteful individual. Not to sound rude. I one time had the pleasure of a customer that had bought a 1996 aerostar new and had changed the oil Once a year. That was in 2000. He wondered why he wasn't getting any oil pressure. Well the pan was full of gelatinous sludge. Yeah that Nice four year old car with a voided warranty and a bad engine. bummer.
That's fine, I thought he was an arrogant àsshole the first time we met--that has not changed. He's an "entrepreneurial" hustler that lives of money conned from investors silly enough to swallow whatever snake oil he's peddling this week.

Here's a video of an '04 GT that had been so abused...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:28 AM   #13
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Going back to the shop Wednesday to see what is wrong
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1998 cummins - 150hp injectors | FASS fuel kit | 4" straight pipe | 5" lift | BHAF | 20" wheels | edge juice w/ attitude | built auto trans with stall | closing in on 900tq | bigger turbo soon..

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Old 02-04-2013, 12:01 PM   #14
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Cam swap! If anything I'll just get new cam and gears. With stage 2 comps they recommend 3.55 fd gears, would it be better to go to 3.73s
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2003 GT - full bolts ons, suspension, and drag radials
1998 cummins - 150hp injectors | FASS fuel kit | 4" straight pipe | 5" lift | BHAF | 20" wheels | edge juice w/ attitude | built auto trans with stall | closing in on 900tq | bigger turbo soon..

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Old 02-04-2013, 12:17 PM   #15
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Cam swap! If anything I'll just get new cam and gears. With stage 2 comps they recommend 3.55 fd gears, would it be better to go to 3.73s
That's a good idea. Im looking at CMS stage 1 cams.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:19 PM   #16
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Nice. I know to get gears and springs. Should I also get the spring retainers. If I were to get cams.
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2003 GT - full bolts ons, suspension, and drag radials
1998 cummins - 150hp injectors | FASS fuel kit | 4" straight pipe | 5" lift | BHAF | 20" wheels | edge juice w/ attitude | built auto trans with stall | closing in on 900tq | bigger turbo soon..

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Old 02-04-2013, 12:38 PM   #17
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Nice. I know to get gears and springs. Should I also get the spring retainers. If I were to get cams.
I would look at doing this. And changing out your lash adjusters.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-c...ivekit-2v.html
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