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Old 02-11-2013, 11:51 PM   #1
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"New Engine"

I plan on going to the junkyard soon after I get my tax return and pulling a 4.6 engine and putting it on a stand. I plan on slowly tearing it apart and piecing it together with the aftermarket mods I'd like to do. I can't really do this with the current engine In my car due to it being a DD and I'm not financially set up to purchase all parts and things needed at once. So it'll be quite a process but ill be puttin in all forged internals and what not so later on down the road I can have it set up for FI. I would love to hear any input from people who are experienced in engine rebuilds/building engines or anyone who has done an engine swap. Any advice would be greatly appreciated and sorry for the long thread lol
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:09 PM   #2
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I have considered slow building an engine many times. I did have a question that I never asked that pertains to what your talking about doing. I worry about moisture control with an engine that is torn down, I assume that someone makes a plastic engine bag to protect the engine cylinder walls etc. from humidity and even dust?

I have done a few half way engine tear downs and many many crown vic engine swaps so I have some advise. As far as engine swaps go the 4.6 is one of the easiest. Some of the reasons for this the engine portion of the wiring harness is really apart of the motor when you buy a used one and all your electrical connections can be made very easily this way greatly reducing the amount of time it take to swap. As far as building your own engine I dont know what your capabilities are but I will tell you to be realistic about you abilities and if your not familiar and experiened with it from doing it on other peoples cars I would advise buying a profesionaly built shortblock and building the motor from there. There would be nothing worse than having a DD that doesnt DD anymore, especially if your making payments. Either way you decide to go I would also advise using plastic bags masking tape and a pen to bag and label anything you take off during the swap. If you dont know what to call a part draw a diagram for yourself to help you remember where it goes. I know this seems silly but you never know how long the parts will be apart when you take them off. It takes a little longer using this process but its alot of insurace and will help ensure you are able to reasemble your project by both not losing your parts and helping you remember where they go. Also make sure you have at least two manuals handy for your car so that if one doesnt explain one part removal very well the other manual may give you more detailed instructions.
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:53 PM   #3
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If my motor ever lets go it's getting replaced with a 5.4.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:05 PM   #4
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2v or 4v? Try finding a cobra motor.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:10 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by DieselStang View Post
I have considered slow building an engine many times. I did have a question that I never asked that pertains to what your talking about doing. I worry about moisture control with an engine that is torn down, I assume that someone makes a plastic engine bag to protect the engine cylinder walls etc. from humidity and even dust?

I have done a few half way engine tear downs and many many crown vic engine swaps so I have some advise. As far as engine swaps go the 4.6 is one of the easiest. Some of the reasons for this the engine portion of the wiring harness is really apart of the motor when you buy a used one and all your electrical connections can be made very easily this way greatly reducing the amount of time it take to swap. As far as building your own engine I dont know what your capabilities are but I will tell you to be realistic about you abilities and if your not familiar and experiened with it from doing it on other peoples cars I would advise buying a profesionaly built shortblock and building the motor from there. There would be nothing worse than having a DD that doesnt DD anymore, especially if your making payments. Either way you decide to go I would also advise using plastic bags masking tape and a pen to bag and label anything you take off during the swap. If you dont know what to call a part draw a diagram for yourself to help you remember where it goes. I know this seems silly but you never know how long the parts will be apart when you take them off. It takes a little longer using this process but its alot of insurace and will help ensure you are able to reasemble your project by both not losing your parts and helping you remember where they go. Also make sure you have at least two manuals handy for your car so that if one doesnt explain one part removal very well the other manual may give you more detailed instructions.
Thank you for all your advice and I'm pretty confident on my engine skills, I used to work in an auto shop for 4 years but I do plan on nagging and labeling all parts and yes I plan on keeping as much dust and moisture as I can out of the parts

I'm glad to hear about the easiness of the swap itself so that lessens some of my nervousness
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:13 PM   #6
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If my motor ever lets go it's getting replaced with a 5.4.
Funny you say that, I have a 5.4 block in my garage right now. I plan on rebuilding it. Just a small bore with new pistions, connecting rods and the crank that came in it. sadly I cant afford forged so Im going to go stock specs just a little bigger pistion size for the bore. Im pry going to do stock PI heads with a HPS intake manifold. My hopes are 300whp and 340tq with that set up. My car is a DD so I cant go to nuts. In the end I will go from a 100k mile engine to a 0 mile engine with more displacement and power.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:29 PM   #7
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Funny you say that, I have a 5.4 block in my garage right now. I plan on rebuilding it. Just a small bore with new pistions, connecting rods and the crank that came in it. sadly I cant afford forged so Im going to go stock specs just a little bigger pistion size for the bore. Im pry going to do stock PI heads with a HPS intake manifold. My hopes are 300whp and 340tq with that set up. My car is a DD so I cant go to nuts. In the end I will go from a 100k mile engine to a 0 mile engine with more displacement and power.
I believe it was MM&FF that did an article on 5.4 swaps. They had a before/after dyno on it. I think a 5.4 would really shine with some head work. If stock 2v heads choke off 4.6 liters of displacement i'd imagine a little porting, polishing, and cams should be considered necessary.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:19 AM   #8
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I believe it was MM&FF that did an article on 5.4 swaps. They had a before/after dyno on it. I think a 5.4 would really shine with some head work. If stock 2v heads choke off 4.6 liters of displacement i'd imagine a little porting, polishing, and cams should be considered necessary.
Yes but I can't get too crazy with cams. The cast internals need to stay below 5,500rpm so if I do cams they will be for low rpm power not high. In other words its going to be like the old muscle cars. Loads if torque and never go abouve 6k rpm.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:54 AM   #9
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^This...

I like this, very accurate assessment.

Well put.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:55 AM   #10
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I'm still trying to figure out American muscles new 5.0 boss block that fits the 4.6 parts?¿. What kinda power would that make?
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:37 AM   #11
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I'm still trying to figure out American muscles new 5.0 boss block that fits the 4.6 parts?¿. What kinda power would that make?
All depends on final compression ratio and what you do for heads on it.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:55 PM   #12
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All depends on final compression ratio and what you do for heads on it.
It's supposed to use the 2v heads...
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:27 PM   #13
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Any block from 96 and up are the same block. Only difference is if its cast iron or aluminum block as which all heads will fit the block hence y the boss block will work for 2v however u will need bigger pistons due to the bore on the boss block being bigger.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:40 PM   #14
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So I plan on building this engine for supercharged applications. What all should I invest in and need to safely run boost
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:04 AM   #15
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well besides a strong block i.e tecskid block, forged internals such as crank and rods, and pistons. fi cams and upgraded valvetrain to go along with the cams, adjustable cam gears. i would deffinitly look into the forged internals so you can safely go boost and be able to support it. also i would blueprint the engine as well.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:05 AM   #16
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well besides a strong block i.e tecskid block, forged internals such as crank and rods, and pistons. fi cams and upgraded valvetrain to go along with the cams, adjustable cam gears. i would deffinitly look into the forged internals so you can safely go boost and be able to support it. also i would blueprint the engine as well.
+1000. Awesome response.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:43 AM   #17
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I have a teksid block and crank for sale if anyone is interested if so pm me on here
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:11 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by 1996mustang View Post
well besides a strong block i.e tecskid block, forged internals such as crank and rods, and pistons. fi cams and upgraded valvetrain to go along with the cams, adjustable cam gears. i would deffinitly look into the forged internals so you can safely go boost and be able to support it. also i would blueprint the engine as well.
Ok thanks for the info ill definitely be looking into this
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:46 AM   #19
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I dont know how you guys feal about cams in your cars but im not a fan to cam out a daily driver. Does anyone recall the 9 second Real Street class of the NMRA? Stock cam, no porting class with engines running around 13psi from a centri charger or 150hp nitrous shot at about 7200rpm thanks to an internaly balanced crank? This in my mind is the ultimate engine setup for a daily driver mustang. The engines made around 625RWHP with stock cams, many of the 4.6 2v engines in this class used the stock pi heads with bullit intakes. Ive always wanted to build one and use a silent drive procharger p1sc-2 with methanol injection instead of an intercooler.. Can you say sleeper?
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:10 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by DieselStang View Post
I dont know how you guys feal about cams in your cars but im not a fan to cam out a daily driver. Does anyone recall the 9 second Real Street class of the NMRA? Stock cam, no porting class with engines running around 13psi from a centri charger or 150hp nitrous shot at about 7200rpm thanks to an internaly balanced crank? This in my mind is the ultimate engine setup for a daily driver mustang. The engines made around 625RWHP with stock cams, many of the 4.6 2v engines in this class used the stock pi heads with bullit intakes. Ive always wanted to build one and use a silent drive procharger p1sc-2 with methanol injection instead of an intercooler.. Can you say sleeper?
This sounds like a very reasonable setup both financially and for daily drive ability
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:21 PM   #21
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Only down side is to run to 7200rpm requires the internaly balanced crank which is super expensive and the engine will have to be rebuilt more often due to the higher rpm. In some aspects yes it is cheaper and in others it is costly.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:23 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by DieselStang View Post
I dont know how you guys feal about cams in your cars but im not a fan to cam out a daily driver. Does anyone recall the 9 second Real Street class of the NMRA? Stock cam, no porting class with engines running around 13psi from a centri charger or 150hp nitrous shot at about 7200rpm thanks to an internaly balanced crank? This in my mind is the ultimate engine setup for a daily driver mustang. The engines made around 625RWHP with stock cams, many of the 4.6 2v engines in this class used the stock pi heads with bullit intakes. Ive always wanted to build one and use a silent drive procharger p1sc-2 with methanol injection instead of an intercooler.. Can you say sleeper?
Where can I find said procharger....I want one..,
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