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Old 04-13-2013, 11:14 AM   #71
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Sick
Hell throw a rear end on it, attach an original 4 speed like it was, paint it back to its original grabber orange paint and booyah! Gotta love these cars. Lol I just posted a local ad saying looking for 65-70 mustangs and the only call I got was him
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:37 PM   #72
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I forgot to ask you to post a picture with the new carpet and your interior back together!
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:38 PM   #73
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I will snap a few pics in a bit don't have many with the interior. I still need to find me some seats though.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:10 PM   #74
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Any pics of everything all together? How is it wearing in?
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:31 PM   #75
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I did this to my 98 except I just got a whole swap interior out of a 95 v6 that was in really good shape. Did the TMI/ACC carpet. It fits OK but if I had to do it again I'd get the mass backed stuff, let it sit out in the sun, use some of the interior glue and get it to fit a little better but its pretty damn good the way it is, you have to look pretty close to see any fitment issues and even then its just nits. And to whoever says its a 10 minutes install, you are smoking crack. You have to trim it to fit using the old stock stuff as a template, test fit, trim, test fit some more and mess with it for awhile to get it right.

Anyway here are pics.

Before shot when I bought it



$460 worth of interior panels, 1/4 panels are not there but included in the final cost



Busted down to its skivvies



Oh, also did brand new TMI Vinyl (yes vinyl) upholstery while I was at it... and foams...







Dunzo











$30 MAC White Faces too



I dunno I didn't feel like messing with paint and the possibility of it flaking or having issues or painting it without a booth or anything like that. All 94-98 cars have a black top half so it makes it that much easier with the SN95. No A/B/C pillars or upper 1/4 panels to worry about or headliner or headrest above the rear seats. Turned out better than I ever could have hoped for and the car looks a MILLION times better than it did. Also the TMI Vinyl is nicer than mint OEM leather. I know, my 95 Cobra had mint OEM leather and these are nicer. 0 maintenance vinyl that won't wrinkle or crack with age is a bonus too.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:15 PM   #76
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Having a black interior and living in Texas sucks! You can't touch nothing in the summer cause you'll end up with 3rd degree burns! Lol
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:23 PM   #77
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Having a black interior and leaving in Texas sucks! You can't touch nothing in the summer cause you'll end up with 3rd degree burns! Lol
True!

part do you live in?:p
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:26 PM   #78
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Everything is in so far and it's not flaking. It's sensitive to scratching. I scratched it a couple times with my keys but doesn't look bad. Holds up very well. Have the carpet in and I have the supplies for the rear seat delete just waiting on some free time
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:33 PM   #79
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Everything is in so far and it's not flaking. It's sensitive to scratching. I scratched it a couple times with my keys but doesn't look bad. Holds up very well. Have the carpet in and I have the supplies for the rear seat delete just waiting on some free time
Nice I've always wanted to do the rear seat delete but I need them to much. I read that you had trouble taking of the center piece of the car, was it difficult to put back in? And did it stay on nice and tight?

---------- Post added at 11:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 PM ----------

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True!

part do you live in?:p
West Texas in Odessa.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:33 PM   #80
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Nice I've always wanted to do the rear seat delete but I need them to much. I read that you had trouble taking of the center piece of the car, was it difficult to put back in? And did it stay on nice and tight?

---------- Post added at 11:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 PM ----------



West Texas in Odessa.
Yea I had trouble finding the nuts, but putting it back in wasn't that bad really. Yeap it's nice and tight
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:38 PM   #81
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Nobody ever realizes the box under the armrest has to come out and then there are 4 screws under there. Interior in these things comes out easy all things considered even the dash.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:41 PM   #82
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Yea I had trouble finding the nuts, but putting it back in wasn't that bad really. Yeap it's nice and tight
That's good to know. I'm going to replace mine cause the front part is broken and the heat from the motor or tranny gets in on the right side of the gas pedal. Like I said I live in Texas lol. I just didn't know if it would go back in right.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:46 PM   #83
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As long as you don't overtighten the plastic and crack it or try to gorilla the parts in and out, you should have no rattles/squeaks/issues when you pull and re-install interior parts. As you can see from the pics I posted, my interior was totally out and it is nice and tight and quiet as it sits.

Best possible thing you can do is bag/tag all your hardware and keep it somewhere you won't lose it.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:52 PM   #84
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I was thinking of taking out the dash but it seemed like a pain
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:06 AM   #85
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Dash is not that bad really.

-Remove center console
-Remove Radio/bezel/HVAC controls
-Remove glove box and trunk popper
-Remove instrument cluster bezel/cluster
-Remove clock pod if equipped
-Drop or remove steering wheel
-Remove passenger airbag
-Grab defrost insert and pull firmly it'll pop out
-Remove screws behind that insert
-Remove the I think 10 bolts that hold the dash on there are 4 in the middle and I think 3 per side

At this point the dash will just be sitting there, get a friend/family member to help you remove it. Just pull it back to check that no wires are still attached anywhere, then lift up and remove.

For painting/dyeing the dash, just remove the entire dash pad from the frame. IIRC there are 12 screws that hold it onto the frame. This is how I swapped my dash from two tone 98 to the black 95 without messing with any wiring or any stupidity like that. Remove the screws and the pad lifts right off.

Sounds like a pain but if you've done the console removal, cluster and bezel removal before its easy. The steering wheel is literally 4 bolts and it drops right down. Pass airbag is held on by 1 or 2 screws up behind the glove box and slides right out.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:31 AM   #86
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Thanks for all the info!
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