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Old 04-13-2013, 10:46 PM   #1
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Suspension Write Ups !

So ive decided to continue with my suspension components as for modding my mach 1, Im going to skip on 4:10s and bolt ons for now. I believe that suspension is key to everything, i mean you can have all the power.. but come on with no suspension work,, your car is just going to flex and not transfer the power to the wheels like you want it to.
I will be doing this soon, and ordering parts very soon.
I will post on DYI on here to show some of you guys who are curious on how things work, and if you need some advice.

First im going to get some Full length Subframe connectors, The Mach 1's come with them but the ones we have are useless, and compared side by side they are a shock! Its just for less chassis flex, and to help transfer the power to the wheels.( im getting them welded on ) i really dont care about getting them painted, or rusting on me )

1979-04 Mustang Maximum Motorsports Bare Finish Full Length Subframe Connectors

Next im going to order some of these Tubular Control arms, they will really help with launching at the track, and improving getting the car from fish tailing to going straight. I know i should go with UPR Chrome moly .. but Im on a budget !!
1979-04 Mustang SVE Tubular Rear Upper And Lower Control Arm Kit, Red

I actually had bought this set on craigslist for 60 dollars brand new !! big blessing, And they made a huge improvement on handling and soaking up the bumps ! Highly recommend these replacements.
1994-04 Mustang Tokico Hp Series Strut & Shock Kit



1979-2004 Ford Mustang UPR Pro Series Drag Launch Springs by Eibach - UPR Products


I was going to grab this set, but Might get these Steeda drag springs from this guy on Craigslist for 50 bucks.. Ill see how that goes. I do want the air bag [ goes on passanger rear coil spring ] It will just help with launching and getting better 60 fts.. and to help not sqaut , I cant spell so be easy on me.

Im going to delete my quad shocks once I do my rear springs, and Control arms.. I have been told they are pointless after you upgrade your control arms, and that you get better traction with them off. and plus they look horrible.. I mean AM sells some upgraded ones, but why bother if they are pointless.

Im also going to do my "OWN" Battery relocate.. Because im not going to spend 100+ dollars on a box and some wires.. Ill just make it myself for way less money.. Ill post that as well [ to help with weight transfer ]

I was going to delete my rear seats but I love my interior too much Lol

I will also post ET Times before and after to show improvements,

I hope to land in the 12s with just suspension and sticky tires

Currently best ET is 13.5 @107 60 Ft - 2.3-2.4
I know I can get lower Its just a matter of slamming gears,
Well yeah.. any feedback would be cool !
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:52 PM   #2
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sounds good...i have a corner carver sticky in the v6 section...i know there's a couple differences suspension wise but you might enjoy checking it out.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:01 PM   #3
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sounds good...i have a corner carver sticky in the v6 section...i know there's a couple differences suspension wise but you might enjoy checking it out.
Yeah I havent really checked anyone elses Thread out yet, Just a idea that im going to go with. Of course im going to do Tubular K Member, A Arms, Coil overs in the front, but thats in time, and with alot of money haha
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:02 PM   #4
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lol i've been on the hunt for a tubular front...almost bought a friends but funds fell through. i may just buy the k member brace and then swap the control arms
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:34 PM   #5
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For serious suspension look into panhard bar, if you got more dough get the watts link, then a torque arm and you will be riding on rails. You will have to run subframe connectors and different lca. You then remove the uca, so I wouldn't recommend buying those. I would look into griggs, and read up on them. Your list is a great to begin with. Are you looking into drag only or also road racing ?
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:48 PM   #6
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For serious suspension look into panhard bar, if you got more dough get the watts link, then a torque arm and you will be riding on rails. You will have to run subframe connectors and different lca. You then remove the uca, so I wouldn't recommend buying those. I would look into griggs, and read up on them. Your list is a great to begin with. Are you looking into drag only or also road racing ?
Mainly drag
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:03 AM   #7
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Those which I listed will definitely help with your launch, as they cover all movement of the rear axle, but idk if its overkill v
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:21 PM   #8
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I would go with the steeda control arms over the sve stuff. Better bushings and control arm geometry for a car that sees street use. Also the steeda control arms are better at lowering E/Ts.

While I like my cars to be grippy you shouldnt count out doing somthing other than suspension mods for 12 second E/T's. I agree with your decision on the Eibach drag springs, most people dont realize that they are close to stock GT spring rate so they maintain your streetablilty but give you just a little bit more weight transfer for straight line traction and improved acceleration. Between the springs and control arms you will have enough assistance from your suspension and have the traction to hit 12's. But even with the traction mods you will still need a little more power and remember too much weight/traction will make you bog in the hole, hurting your launch and making your E/T's slower in time and MPH. Somthing else that improves launching ability and is good at lowering your E/T's by adding a little more power without effecting your engines power band is a FRPP lightweight aluminum driveshaft. Typical results are a .2 second drop in E/T with the driveshaft alone. If you used the aluminum driveshaft instead of getting new subframes and a shock/strut kit you will have a better chance of hitting your 12 second E/T goal.

If you are dead set on 12's you need to aim for 12.80's to make sure your car hits the 12 second mark. I highly recommend using 3.90 gears with the driveshaft mod and still using the drag springs and steeda control arms. I say 3.90's for 2 reasons. One Your Mach1 has 3.55 gears and you wont notice anything by going up only one gear set to 3.73's. The 4.10's are great at acceleration but they also require a power robbing shift into 4th gear at the end of a 1/4 mile track making the 3.90 gears more effiencent with street tires to include Nitto radial tires. For these 2 reasons I highly recommend the 3.90 gears.

I hope you take my advice and I hear about you in the 12's soon. I love the Mach1 and think its cool you have one, they are cooler than the terminator in my opinion. If I had one of my own I would try to put it in the 11's without a power adder or modifying anything inbetween the throttle body and stock exhuast manifold and without using slicks.

Also just a quick footnote. If your planning on racing at the track alot then the adjustable airbag option of the eibach drag springs will help you keep your launchs straight so your E/T's are even more efficient and consistant as possible. Also if you plan to use M/T slicks the 4.10 gears are your best option if your still going to use your car for street use. If you plan to use the car for track only duty with a stock engine and slicks 4.56 or 4.88 gears will be your best performers. Also MM is a great brand selection for subframe connectors but not necisary for 12's. And if you need any help with future performance parts selection send me a PM and I will assist you.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:51 PM   #9
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Im building a corner carver as well. Got the Panhard Bar just need to install it.
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