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Old 04-28-2013, 09:21 AM   #1
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What's the best way to fix/increase your gas mileage? Mines been drinking gas a lot!

I've cleaned the MAF and TB idk what else todo
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:41 AM   #2
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Depends on how you drive. You can change gear ratio for your driving style. For example if you run highway you can run stock gear and that would be close to optimal. Like a 2.73 gear. Cold air will help a little and so will exhaust. Anything to help it breathe
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:16 AM   #3
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The car is bone stock. It's a 00 GT
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:52 PM   #4
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How many miles per gallon are you getting, what sort of driving do you do (in-town, short trips -or- highway, 20+ miles per trip)?
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #5
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Also is it auto or manual. That does make a difference. Check tire pressure if its not to the right psi it will harm mpg. If catalytic converters are clogged that can rob your mpg. I know there was an article I saw in mmff or 5.0 magazine that they changed the oil, trans, and resr diff to royal purple and gained 2mpg on the highway.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:08 PM   #6
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Shift lower rpms, use neutral more often and coast to slow down rather than braking as much at lights
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:28 PM   #7
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How many miles per gallon are you getting, what sort of driving do you do (in-town, short trips -or- highway, 20+ miles per trip)?
I don't drive that far to work, my job is actually 8mins away from my house and some commute around the city (houston)

---------- Post added at 06:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:25 PM ----------

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Also is it auto or manual. That does make a difference. Check tire pressure if its not to the right psi it will harm mpg. If catalytic converters are clogged that can rob your mpg. I know there was an article I saw in mmff or 5.0 magazine that they changed the oil, trans, and resr diff to royal purple and gained 2mpg on the highway.
It's a auto, now that you mention those Ima change them out when I get my spl system. That might be the major reason why, the car was sitting for a year before I bought it

---------- Post added at 06:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------

Well this weekend Ima just do a full tune up on it ad see if that helps
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:16 PM   #8
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I don't drive that far to work, my job is actually 8mins away from my house and some commute around the city (houston)

---------- Post added at 06:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:25 PM ----------



It's a auto, now that you mention those Ima change them out when I get my spl system. That might be the major reason why, the car was sitting for a year before I bought it

---------- Post added at 06:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------

Well this weekend Ima just do a full tune up on it ad see if that helps
Then check your gass mileage the correct way so we no how bad it is or maybe it's just normal (welcome to an American made muscle car)

Fill up.. Drive X amount of miles M.. Then fill up again.. Divide miles drivin M by gallons filled G..
M/G=MPG example

100 miles sense last fill up.. Refill 5gal..
100/5=20. You would be getting 20mpg..
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:26 PM   #9
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Ima going to try that. Can O2 sensors be a probem too?
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:22 PM   #10
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Ima going to try that. Can O2 sensors be a probem too?
Could

---------- Post added at 10:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 PM ----------

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Ima going to try that. Can O2 sensors be a probem too?
Could be reading bad dumping fuel
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:49 PM   #11
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Well I'm doing a full tune this weekend. I'll let you guys know how it turned out.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:58 PM   #12
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Is your Full tune up to include a fuel filter? most forget about this mod.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:00 PM   #13
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Yeah Ima go with a fram
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:26 PM   #14
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Yeah Ima go with a fram
NO! Do not use FRAM.
Use Motorcraft or something that has the oil flow valve. Fram does not have the valve that our motors need and is known to cause problems.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:05 PM   #15
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For the fuel filter?
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:41 PM   #16
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For the fuel filter?
Don't use Fram period... For anything especially something going on a car.. It's a cheap Walmart brand..
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:43 PM   #17
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That's something new to me, what's a good fuel/oil filter
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:04 PM   #18
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That's something new to me, what's a good fuel/oil filter
Oil.. I only use Motorcraft ... Fuel I use Motorcraft too, but microgaurd or anything will work..
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:37 AM   #19
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What are some good spark plugs?
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:53 AM   #20
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What are some good spark plugs?
A lot of people use ngk.. Some perform better then others when it comes to like copper or platinum but others last longer..
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:02 AM   #21
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What are some good spark plugs?
Motorcraft p/n AGSF32PM or Champion p/n 3401--single platinum. They are all any 2V engine, except the most radically "built", need; and will last 75k to 100k miles...
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:06 AM   #22
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What kind of motor craft, platinum or copper
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:40 AM   #23
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What kind of motor craft, platinum or copper
Motorcraft p/n AGSF32PM or Champion p/n 3401--single platinum.

There is no such thing as a "copper" spark plug, it is a marketing term introduced by NGK 25+ years ago pointing out that they used a copper core conductor in their conventional chrome/nickel electrode plugs--as did most all most all other manufacturers.

The term has since become synonymous with cheap conventional electrode material plugs, even though almost all automotive spark plugs regardless of electrode material (be it chrome/nickel, platinum or iridium) now have copper cores.

More about spark plugs here, it is a document I edited for Weapon X that although intended to promote their iridium plugs is nonetheless factual...
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Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:49 PM   #24
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Ok now this will be a stupid question...is the tip really platinum?
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:54 PM   #25
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Ok now this will be a stupid question...is the tip really platinum?
Platinum coated..
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:38 PM   #26
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Platinum coated..
No, it is actually platinum; iridium plugs use iridium.

After market "single" precious metal plugs have just the center electrode made of the exotic metal, "double" platinum and iridium plugs have a precious metal insert on the side electrode to prevent erosion of same in wasted spark systems.

The OEM Motorcraft plugs used with the EEC-IV and EDIS system ('96 through '98 4.6L Mustangs) had 1/2 of the plugs with platinum center electrodes and 1/2 with platinum side electrodes as a money saving scheme. The plugs for cylinders 1, 2, 3 and 4 were AWSF32PG (for Platinum Ground), those for cylinders 5, 6, 7 and 8 were AWSF32P (Platinum tip). It was important to not mix them up if they were going to be replaced.

The replacements were AWSF32PP, PP for double platinum.

More about wasted spark ignition systems here...
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Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:41 AM   #27
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What about the 2000 GT?
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:26 AM   #28
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What about the 2000 GT?
If you are asking if the stock 2000 GT plugs were single platinum devices, with a real honest to God fine wire platinum alloy center electrode, then the answer is yes.

How many times, in how many ways do you want me to answer this question?

All Mustang GTs from 1996 through 2004 used platinum plugs. From '96 through '98 the stock plugs were staggered sets (4 having platinum center and 4 having platinum side electrodes) as described in my previous posting. From '99 through '04 they all had platinum center electrodes.

That is why the recommended change interval is 100k miles.

(from the shop manual maintenance schedule)

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New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:38 AM   #29
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Well you kinda threw me off when you started talking about the 96-98, but the car is at home now so when I get off work I can just go get what I need and install and update you guys. I really thank you all for all the help.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:41 AM   #30
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Well you kinda threw me off when you started talking about the 96-98, but the car is at home now so when I get off work I can just go get what I need and install and update you guys. I really thank you all for all the help.
+1
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:49 AM   #31
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so i ran into a problem, i got my spark plugs BUT when i checked the gaps on them some of them was waaaay off like .62 .60 .56 etc, what should i do???
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:04 PM   #32
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so i ran into a problem, i got my spark plugs BUT when i checked the gaps on them some of them was waaaay off like .62 .60 .56 etc, what should i do???
First, kudos for actually checking them!

Re-gap them, one of the more popular conventional notions is that plugs come "pre-gapped", with very few exceptions they do not.

Use a proper gapping tool (any FLAPS will have one), this is the best sort as the notches on the arms allow the gap to be opened or closed without banging the plug on a hard surface (to close the gap) or wedging part of the tool between the center and side electrodes to open the gap::



This kind is OK, but some what awkward in opening the gap (the hole with the ridge is supposed to be use for that), and requires banging the plug to close the gap:



This sort is trash, they should all be gathered up and melted down to make something useful like a .25 caliber Saturday night special:

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Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:46 PM   #33
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First, kudos for actually checking them!

Re-gap them, one of the more popular conventional notions is that plugs come "pre-gapped", with very few exceptions they do not.

Use a proper gapping tool (any FLAPS will have one), this is the best sort as the notches on the arms allow the gap to be opened or closed without banging the plug on a hard surface (to close the gap) or wedging part of the tool between the center and side electrodes to open the gap::

This kind is OK, but some what awkward in opening the gap (the hole with the ridge is supposed to be use for that), and requires banging the plug to close the gap:

This sort is trash, they should all be gathered up and melted down to make something useful like a .25 caliber Saturday night special:
What should a proper gap be
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:31 PM   #34
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The specs was .54 when I looked it up the dealer said the same. This is the one I have, I made got them down to spec now. They are all at .54
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:12 PM   #35
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Smh, look at these spark plugs that came out of the car
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