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Old 05-03-2013, 04:25 PM   #1
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O/R x MIL question

Gonna finally do it and grab an o/r x..but I got a question about MiL eliminators before I purchase..if I understand correctly if you don't have them, they will throw a CEL and essentially put car in "limp" or "safe" mode and just not run to its potential, I understand MIL will stop this, as well as a tuner to turn off the rear sensors..my question is I have an OBD2 scanner to clear CELs..can I just clear the codes for the o2 sensors and it will run normal? I understand I'd have to keep clearing it every couple hundred miles because it resets the code but that would not bother me until I get the cash for a tuner..thanks guys
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:13 PM   #2
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Bump
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:27 PM   #3
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Prob just gonna go with the spark park non fouler trick, haha just discovered it
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post
Gonna finally do it and grab an o/r x..but I got a question about MiL eliminators before I purchase..if I understand correctly if you don't have them, they will throw a CEL and essentially put car in "limp" or "safe" mode and just not run to its potential,
This is not so, all the rear sensors do is monitor the catalytic converter efficiency, they have nothing to do with engine control--the PCM will not enter failure management mode because there are no cats.

Quote:
I understand MIL will stop this, as well as a tuner to turn off the rear sensors..my question is I have an OBD2 scanner to clear CELs..can I just clear the codes for the o2 sensors and it will run normal? I understand I'd have to keep clearing it every couple hundred miles because it resets the code but that would not bother me until I get the cash for a tuner..thanks guys
See above--that there are no cats will have no impact on engine operation--no impact at all including adding any power, it will just make the exhaust louder and stinkier...


===================================
You can also make your own MIL Eliminators for $6 or so...
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:58 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post

This is not so, all the rear sensors do is monitor the catalytic converter efficiency, they have nothing to do with engine control--the PCM will not enter failure management mode because there are no cats.

See above--that there are no cats will have no impact on engine operation--no impact at all including adding any power, it will just make the exhaust louder and stinkier...

===================================
You can also make your own MIL Eliminators for $6 or so...
Thanks cliffy,
Have you had any experience with the spark plug non fouler trick before?
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:22 PM   #6
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I'd probably go with the MIL eliminators, until you can get your tuner as have planned. 1lowGT was selling some MIL eliminators for sale recently. You might look into that.
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:50 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post

Thanks cliffy,
Have you had any experience with the spark plug non fouler trick before?
I did the spark plug non fouler on my truck and worked perfectly. It's all the same basic concept.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:16 AM   #8
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I did the $6 DIY eliminator a but now am getting two codes saying that both sensors are heated. Radom missfire and bogging. Could I have not insulated the wire lead correctly or is this known to happen.? I filled up with premium and the cel went away as well as the bogging but both have returned.
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:09 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Cornkush View Post
I did the $6 DIY eliminator a but now am getting two codes saying that both sensors are heated. Radom missfire and bogging. Could I have not insulated the wire lead correctly or is this known to happen.? I filled up with premium and the cel went away as well as the bogging but both have returned.
What are the codes?

You did put them on the rear O² sensors, right? Did you leave the heater wires intact when you installed the MIL Eliminators?

The rear sensors only monitor the cats and have nothing to do with engine control, that is why knowing what the code are is essential. They could be disconnected and not cause misfires or bogging...
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:26 PM   #10
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Yes I did and p0136
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:11 AM   #11
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Yes I did and p0136
P0136 is an over or under voltage issue with the bank 1, rear sensor; most likely a wiring problem or weak, dying O2 sensor. As they age their output voltage drops, the RC (resistor/capacitor) filter of the MIL Eliminator requires that the sensor be fully functional--it eliminates the MIL, not the sensor...
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:54 AM   #12
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Yes ik this I double a triple checked the wires they seem to be insulated. I did notice however last time under a header bolt was barely on by several threads could a leak cause this ?
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:32 AM   #13
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Yes ik this I double a triple checked the wires they seem to be insulated. I did notice however last time under a header bolt was barely on by several threads could a leak cause this ?
Unlikely that a leak that far forward of the rear sensor could do this--especially without the front sensoir geting upset too--but perhaps possible.

Here are the shop manual causes and diagnostic tips for P0136. Crossed wiring or bad sensor would be the two I'd focus on.

Do you have the stock sensors? Did you you use this diagram from my site?



If not the stock sensors what wire colours do they have?


The sensor can be bench tested with a multimeter and propane torch--here's how...
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:22 PM   #14
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Yes they are stock and yes I used that site very well written and helpful. I will check that link now.

Also have some evap lines still to replace could any of those cause this.?
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:31 PM   #15
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And sorry but I ment where the midpipe bolts to the headers
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