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Old 05-16-2013, 09:27 PM   #1
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o2 sensor question

So just installed o/r x pipe, love it! One of my front o2 sensors was not able to reach to the new x pipe and they just unplugged it, capped the hole on the x pipe and gave me my o2 sensor till I get an extension or whatever..now how important are these front o2s? Am I damaging the car driving without it at the moment?
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:38 PM   #2
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Oh and I thought it was only the 04s that needed the o2 extension
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:56 PM   #3
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I just had a front one go out on my 98, it ran like crap and the gas mileage went down considerably. I guess you can see how yours acts and decide but it will throw a CEL and 2 codes most likely

---------- Post added at 07:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:54 PM ----------

It wont damage the car though
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:12 PM   #4
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Thanks man, you know if they sell extensions at auto part stores or online order?
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:35 PM   #5
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I honestly have no idea lol, ive never needed one. I dunno if you have been on the freeway yet but thats where mine really had issues with a bad o2, and it would choke and have no power for a while after getting off the freeway
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:48 PM   #6
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I honestly have no idea lol, ive never needed one. I dunno if you have been on the freeway yet but thats where mine really had issues with a bad o2, and it would choke and have no power for a while after getting off the freeway
No problem with that here. Right after install I had to drive it home on the parkway (65mph) for 20 minutes, all seemed well, didn't even have a cel until about an hour of driving
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:58 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post

No problem with that here. Right after install I had to drive it home on the parkway (65mph) for 20 minutes, all seemed well, didn't even have a cel until about an hour of driving
I don't have my fronts and it runs fine
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:04 AM   #8
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I don't have my fronts and it runs fine
Good to know, thanks bro
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:05 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post
No problem with that here. Right after install I had to drive it home on the parkway (65mph) for 20 minutes, all seemed well, didn't even have a cel until about an hour of driving
What is the DTC?

The front oxygen sensors are essential to closed-loop engine operation, their output is used by the PCM to keep the average AFR at 14.7:1. Without them, or an adequate output signal, the PCM will initially think the mix is lean and attempt to richen it until it has added 25% more fuel, at which time a DTC will be thrown. It will at the same time sense that the sensor output is not "switching" and toss a code.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:00 AM   #10
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What is the DTC?

The front oxygen sensors are essential to closed-loop engine operation, their output is used by the PCM to keep the average AFR at 14.7:1. Without them, or an adequate output signal, the PCM will initially think the mix is lean and attempt to richen it until it has added 25% more fuel, at which time a DTC will be thrown. It will at the same time sense that the sensor output is not "switching" and toss a code.
Thank you cliffy..beside horrible MPG, am I harming the car driving it until I can get a o2 sensor extension, if I can't find them at a local part store than I'm stuck having to order it and waiting till next week to come in, my car is a DD so it must be driven for me to go to work
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:34 AM   #11
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Codes P0155 and P1155
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:08 AM   #12
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Thats wierd, i have never heard about a front 02 sensor not being able to reach, you might end up having to get 02 extensions.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:27 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post
Thank you cliffy..beside horrible MPG, am I harming the car driving it until I can get a o2 sensor extension, if I can't find them at a local part store than I'm stuck having to order it and waiting till next week to come in, my car is a DD so it must be driven for me to go to work
Are you sure it's not P0155 and P1151? Those are what I would expect if the driver's side front O2 sensor were not there. P1155 is an obsolete code AFAIK.

There is a possibility of the rich mix damaging the catalytic converter on bank 2...
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:33 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post

Are you sure it's not P0155 and P1151? Those are what I would expect if the driver's side front O2 sensor were not there. P1155 is an obsolete code AFAIK.

There is a possibility of the rich mix damaging the catalytic converter on bank 2...
Yes sir my bad, P0155 and P1151..no catalytic converters here its an o/r x pipe.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:44 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post
Yes sir my bad, P0155 and P1151..no catalytic converters here its an o/r x pipe.
It will just run rich on that bank then--I would not drive it more than necessary though.

Do you have long tube headers or just an o/r mid-pipe?

I have never heard of O2 extensions being needed with an off-road H- or X-pipe; what brand is it?
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:51 AM   #16
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It will just run rich on that bank then--I would not drive it more than necessary though.

Do you have long tube headers or just an o/r mid-pipe?

I have never heard of O2 extensions being needed with an off-road H- or X-pipe; what brand is it?
Just an o/r midpipe with SLP catback...it's a UPR o/r x
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:06 AM   #17
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Its the Driver side front o2
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:06 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post
Just an o/r midpipe with SLP catback...it's a UPR o/r x
That should have front (and rear) O2 bungs in exactly the same locations as the stock pipe--I have a UPR catted X-pipe, it is 6 years old now however it went on with no problems.

Was the O2 sensor that could not be reinstalled an OEM sensor?

What are the wire colors--they should be red/yellow and yellow/light blue for the heater, and red/black and gray/red for the sensor signal and ground.

If the colors are red/yellow, red/white, gray/red and gray/light blue then I know what happened...

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Old 05-17-2013, 10:19 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post

That should have front (and rear) O2 bungs in exactly the same locations as the stock pipe--I have a UPR catted X-pipe, it is 6 years old now however it went on with no problems.

Was the O2 sensor that could not be reinstalled an OEM sensor?

What are the wire colors--they should be red/yellow and yellow/light blue for the heater, and red/black and gray/red for the sensor signal and ground.

If the colors are red/yellow, red/white, gray/red and gray/light blue then I know what happened...
Yes the sensor is OEM, as for the wire colors I'm at work for the day and the sensor is sitting in the garage at home...I do know I remember it being wrapped in a green sleeve, but def OEM sensor..what could be the problem cliff? Thanks so much for all your help I do appreciate all this
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:41 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by NJstanger View Post
Yes the sensor is OEM, as for the wire colors I'm at work for the day and the sensor is sitting in the garage at home...I do know I remember it being wrapped in a green sleeve, but def OEM sensor..what could be the problem cliff? Thanks so much for all your help I do appreciate all this
On some front OEM sensors the wiring "pigtail" is longer on one side than on the other--if they got them mixed up when installing the X-pipe it could explain why the wires were not long enough...
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:29 PM   #21
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On some front OEM sensors the wiring "pigtail" is longer on one side than on the other--if they got them mixed up when installing the X-pipe it could explain why the wires were not long enough...
Ahhhhhh I see I'll check that out ASAP when I get home
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:33 PM   #22
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if not just splice and make your own extension...simple 4 wire splice. i would never run a car without front o2's....not running rear o2's is fine since they are just o2 monitors but upstreams are essential
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:24 PM   #23
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if not just splice and make your own extension...simple 4 wire splice. i would never run a car without front o2's....not running rear o2's is fine since they are just o2 monitors but upstreams are essential
What kind of wire? I'm at pepboys now and they have a extension splice in kit for 47.99$ which is a lot of money ..
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:36 PM   #24
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Put my car up on ramps, checked out the o2s and it would NOT reach, not even close...the passenger side one is the same size so that didn't get mixed..bought the universal splice in kit comes with a brand new o2 sensor for 50$...installed that in 20 minutes
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:54 PM   #25
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Any same gauge wire and crimp ends would of worked once you cut off the old harness but glad you got it fixed.
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:46 AM   #26
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Speaking to crimped connections, always use a good full compression crimping tool.

Like this one from HF ($7.99 on sale now):



The staking type tool is OK, make sure you place the staking pin on the side opposite the ferrule's seam):



For some reason these are not easily found any longer, with the squashing type tool being the most commonly available--and worst possible tool to use:



The prevalence of the squashing type tool is why DIY crimped connections have garnered such as bad reputation, you might as well just get a pit bull and let the dog bite the connector.

Fill the ferrule with dielectric grease before crimping. Properly potted in grease and crimped with a full compression tool a crimped connection is as good as, and arguably better than, a soldered connection...
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:58 AM   #27
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So with the splice in kit codes P0155 and P1151 cleared..now I got P0430 only, is that normal with no MILs?
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:18 PM   #28
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So with the splice in kit codes P0155 and P1151 cleared..now I got P0430 only, is that normal with no MILs?
Yup, P0420 (catalyst efficiency below threshold bank1) may pop up too.

You can make MIL Eliminators for less than $10 a pair--click here...
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