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Old 05-21-2013, 04:08 AM   #1
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recalibration kit?

Do I need a recalibration kit when I get my 4.10 gears? This is going on my 03 manual GT with a K&N CAI throttle body spacer,intake spacer and that is all I've done so far. Next in line of order is sub frame connectors,short throw shifter,and steeda pullys. But I've also heard I'd might have to get a different alternator for those to fit as well. I'm purchasing these parts from AM
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:27 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Sobersucks85 View Post
Do I need a recalibration kit when I get my 4.10 gears? This is going on my 03 manual GT with a K&N CAI throttle body spacer,intake spacer and that is all I've done so far. Next in line of order is sub frame connectors,short throw shifter,and steeda pullys. But I've also heard I'd might have to get a different alternator for those to fit as well. I'm purchasing these parts from AM
Yes you will but it won't hurt anything to ride without recalibrating it. Your speed will just say your going faster than you really are
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:34 AM   #3
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If by "recalibration kit" you are referring to a different speedometer drive gear you will not find such a kit available for the '99 through '04 Mustang On these cars vehicle speed is calculated by the PCM based upon a pulse train generated by the transmission's output shaft speed (OSS) sensor, and then processed using the programmed final drive ratio and tire size (in revolutions per mile). The result is sent as a digital data packet to the instrument cluster where the cluster's micro-controller parses the data and drives the speedometer "gauge"--which is really a stepper motor.

There are devices available that can alter the frequency of the OSS signal and correct the speedometer--the Dallas Mustang Speed-Cal, and SpeedoDRD being a couple--however the proper way to fix the error is to reprogram the final drive ratio in the tune. The PCM uses vehicle speed in some of the engine control algorithms, and it is of course used on automatic transmission vehicles to control shift points.

Any handheld tuner can make this correction. Also, as the stock tune sucks it is advisable to load a performance tune anyway. Even the worse mail-order tune will be better than the stack tune.

You may want to review the Beginner's Guide to Bolt-ons "sticky" to plan future modifications...
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:49 AM   #4
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If by "recalibration kit" you are referring to a different speedometer drive gear you will not find such a kit available for the '99 through '04 Mustang On these cars vehicle speed is calculated by the PCM based upon a pulse train generated by the transmission's output shaft speed (OSS) sensor, and then processed using the programmed final drive ratio and tire size (in revolutions per mile). The result is sent as a digital data packet to the instrument cluster where the cluster's micro-controller parses the data and drives the speedometer "gauge"--which is really a stepper motor.

There are devices available that can alter the frequency of the OSS signal and correct the speedometer--the Dallas Mustang Speed-Cal, and SpeedoDRD being a couple--however the proper way to fix the error is to reprogram the final drive ratio in the tune. The PCM uses vehicle speed in some of the engine control algorithms, and it is of course used on automatic transmission vehicles to control shift points.

Any handheld tuner can make this correction. Also, as the stock tune sucks it is advisable to load a performance tune anyway. Even the worse mail-order tune will be better than the stack tune.

You may want to review the Beginner's Guide to Bolt-ons "sticky" to plan future modifications...
Very well put +1
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:04 AM   #5
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Late model restoration sells one for the 99 to 04 that goes right under the shift boot. It's roughly 100 and is a whole lot cheaper than a tune. If you are doing a tune eventually then don't waste your money on it. It's very easy to do. They give you a chart and you find your rear gear and enter the binary code. Simple simple
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:25 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
If by "recalibration kit" you are referring to a different speedometer drive gear you will not find such a kit available for the '99 through '04 Mustang On these cars vehicle speed is calculated by the PCM based upon a pulse train generated by the transmission's output shaft speed (OSS) sensor, and then processed using the programmed final drive ratio and tire size (in revolutions per mile). The result is sent as a digital data packet to the instrument cluster where the cluster's micro-controller parses the data and drives the speedometer "gauge"--which is really a stepper motor.

There are devices available that can alter the frequency of the OSS signal and correct the speedometer--the Dallas Mustang Speed-Cal, and SpeedoDRD being a couple--however the proper way to fix the error is to reprogram the final drive ratio in the tune. The PCM uses vehicle speed in some of the engine control algorithms, and it is of course used on automatic transmission vehicles to control shift points.

Any handheld tuner can make this correction. Also, as the stock tune sucks it is advisable to load a performance tune anyway. Even the worse mail-order tune will be better than the stack tune.

You may want to review the Beginner's Guide to Bolt-ons "sticky" to plan future modifications...
+1
I recommend not riding around unless fixing the speedo, whether its recalibration, handheld tuner, or dyno tune. You dont want your speedo off because that means your odometer is also racking up incorrect miles.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:24 AM   #7
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I just bought a new speedo gear from FRPP and my speedometer is spot on (I checked it with those digital speed trap things and with a toll booth speed checker).
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:09 PM   #8
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I just bought a new speedo gear from FRPP and my speedometer is spot on (I checked it with those digital speed trap things and with a toll booth speed checker).
Apparently someone did not read the thread...
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:15 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by BackPressure View Post
I just bought a new speedo gear from FRPP and my speedometer is spot on (I checked it with those digital speed trap things and with a toll booth speed checker).
The 3650 transmission does not use a mechanical worm and pinion speedometer drive, but instead a 12-tooth reluctor wheel and proximity sensor to generate a pulsed waveform of 12 pulses per output shaft revolution--I.e. there is no gear to change.

The 4R70W automatic transmission uses a 6 tooth wheel, when swapping auto to manual or vice versa the Output shaft pulses per revolution scalar value has to be changed accordingly...
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:41 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Sobersucks85 View Post
Do I need a recalibration kit when I get my 4.10 gears? This is going on my 03 manual GT with a K&N CAI throttle body spacer,intake spacer and that is all I've done so far. Next in line of order is sub frame connectors,short throw shifter,and steeda pullys. But I've also heard I'd might have to get a different alternator for those to fit as well. I'm purchasing these parts from AM
Take it to a local ford dealer if your not going to get a tune and they'll get you fixed up. Shouldn't be expensive at all. I just hooked the IDS up to mine at work and made the changes and its all bueno
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:34 PM   #11
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If by "recalibration kit" you are referring to a different speedometer drive gear you will not find such a kit available for the '99 through '04 Mustang On these cars vehicle speed is calculated by the PCM based upon a pulse train generated by the transmission's output shaft speed (OSS) sensor, and then processed using the programmed final drive ratio and tire size (in revolutions per mile). The result is sent as a digital data packet to the instrument cluster where the cluster's micro-controller parses the data and drives the speedometer "gauge"--which is really a stepper motor.

There are devices available that can alter the frequency of the OSS signal and correct the speedometer--the Dallas Mustang Speed-Cal, and SpeedoDRD being a couple--however the proper way to fix the error is to reprogram the final drive ratio in the tune. The PCM uses vehicle speed in some of the engine control algorithms, and it is of course used on automatic transmission vehicles to control shift points.

Any handheld tuner can make this correction. Also, as the stock tune sucks it is advisable to load a performance tune anyway. Even the worse mail-order tune will be better than the stack tune.

You may want to review the Beginner's Guide to Bolt-ons "sticky" to plan future modifications...
I wonder why Ford missed so badly on the stock tune. Was it that they had to stay within certain parameters for emissions testing or just tuned the car for the masses and called it good? It seems to me that it would be in their best interest to get it right or at least very close. Other than the initial R and D, it wouldn't have cost any extra...
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
If by "recalibration kit" you are referring to a different speedometer drive gear you will not find such a kit available for the '99 through '04 Mustang On these cars vehicle speed is calculated by the PCM based upon a pulse train generated by the transmission's output shaft speed (OSS) sensor, and then processed using the programmed final drive ratio and tire size (in revolutions per mile). The result is sent as a digital data packet to the instrument cluster where the cluster's micro-controller parses the data and drives the speedometer "gauge"--which is really a stepper motor.

There are devices available that can alter the frequency of the OSS signal and correct the speedometer--the Dallas Mustang Speed-Cal, and SpeedoDRD being a couple--however the proper way to fix the error is to reprogram the final drive ratio in the tune. The PCM uses vehicle speed in some of the engine control algorithms, and it is of course used on automatic transmission vehicles to control shift points.

Any handheld tuner can make this correction. Also, as the stock tune sucks it is advisable to load a performance tune anyway. Even the worse mail-order tune will be better than the stack tune.

You may want to review the Beginner's Guide to Bolt-ons "sticky" to plan future modifications...
Mind blown
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Old 05-21-2013, 03:32 PM   #13
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I wonder why Ford missed so badly on the stock tune. Was it that they had to stay within certain parameters for emissions testing or just tuned the car for the masses and called it good? It seems to me that it would be in their best interest to get it right or at least very close. Other than the initial R and D, it wouldn't have cost any extra...
They didn't "miss", they tuned it just the way they wanted. The ignition timing and fueling chosen make it very unlikely that the engine would ever be be damaged while under warranty.

At higher loads and engine speeds the non-aggressive ignition timing allows the engine to run without any possibility of damage regardless of what quality of 87 octane swill is loaded into the tank. The overly rich air/fuel ratio in open-loop mode also assists in seeing to it that someone can "beat the crap" out of the engine without beating out too much crap.

Ignition timing and air/fuel ratio are the first two things changed in a custom tune for a New-Edge GT. All canned and mail-order tune I have ever dissected bump the allowed timing advance by 1.5 to 2.0°, and lean the mix at higher loads in open-loop by 0.5 to 0.75 "AFR", even for a "87 octane" tune.

BTW, the late '02 and '04 models with the pink (lavender) 21 lb/h injectors run even richer in open-loop mode, as Ford did not alter the tune's injector settings when the changeover from the 19 lb/h injectors was made. I have seen the AFR on later model GTs fall into the low 11s and even the high 10s at WOT and high loads.
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Old 05-21-2013, 03:50 PM   #14
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I see. So they DID tune it in their best interest.
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Old 05-21-2013, 03:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post

The 3650 transmission does not use a mechanical worm and pinion speedometer drive, but instead a 12-tooth reluctor wheel and proximity sensor to generate a pulsed waveform of 12 pulses per output shaft revolution--I.e. there is no gear to change.

The 4R70W automatic transmission uses a 6 tooth wheel, when swapping auto to manual or vice versa the Output shaft pulses per revolution scalar value has to be changed accordingly...
And the 4r75w uses a 24 pulse setup. Those came in all 04s with autos.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:10 PM   #16
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+^ yup...
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Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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