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Old 05-27-2013, 11:35 PM   #36
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^This. Again, it is an older car and will have issues like this. The misfire is very likely a COP that needs replaced and check the plug too. As for the grinding and squeaking out back... grinding could be something in the rear, could be something rubbing. Squeaking is probably a shot isolator or something else in the suspension that is probably on the way out after all this time. Again, welcome to the world of decade+ old sports cars haha. Have faith that when you get it sorted you will enjoy it. These cars are a lot of fun, endless mods for them, big power is there if you have the $$$ to burn and even as a DD they are actually way more economical than ppl think. Keep your foot out of it and you'll probably be surprised at your MPG.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:26 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Seb View Post
Sounds like a blown head gasket that would make your engine misfire and/or put more Pressure in your coolent to blow your Radiator hose off
As I was reading I started think what this did I had a 2003 gt loved it until head gaskets went caused by the intake manifold(plastic) melting and leaking anti freeze causing head gaskets to blow easy way to tell is get your car running to normal driving temp and smell your exhaust but BE CAREFUL I'm pretty sure if your burning anti freeze its not good to breathe in but if you can smell if sweet your for sure burning anti freeze you should check for oil consumption and leaking oil down the back of the motor
Had same issues and ended up costing me 3 months no stang and 400 for a freind of my grandpas to rebuild heads and gaskets
Did all the work myself and man that car was off the line like no ones business hope it helps
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:16 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post

I did take care of it , and they are piece of junks ,
They should of just put 4Vs in the GTs

---------- Post added at 05:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:57 PM ----------

First I had to replace the clutch

Then had to replace the radiator
Then had to replace the compressor
Then had to replace the heater core
Then had to replace the evaporator
Then I had to replace my engine so i just rebuilt it
Then i had to redo my clutch because the TOB went out,
Then had to replace my manifold because it cracked in the back
Then my water pump was leaking

Idk I would never ever buy another GT unless it was my last resort , or had a supercharger.
Your mojo with Fords is like mine with chevys, not good.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:29 AM   #39
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Well I imagine I will save for a new intake manifold and go from there. Anyone have any opinions on after market intakes or should i just go with Ford racing parts?
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:54 AM   #40
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How much you want to pay you they are like 100 dollar difference then fords I wanted a Mach 1 intake but those go for 700
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:26 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post

I did take care of it , and they are piece of junks ,
They should of just put 4Vs in the GTs

---------- Post added at 05:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:57 PM ----------

First I had to replace the clutch

Then had to replace the radiator
Then had to replace the compressor
Then had to replace the heater core
Then had to replace the evaporator
Then I had to replace my engine so i just rebuilt it
Then i had to redo my clutch because the TOB went out,
Then had to replace my manifold because it cracked in the back
Then my water pump was leaking

Idk I would never ever buy another GT unless it was my last resort , or had a supercharger.
mine isnt a piece of junk
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:59 PM   #42
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mine isnt a piece of junk
+1
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:08 PM   #43
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:35 PM   #44
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My 2v wasn't junk. It wasn't that fast but it was reliable and nothing ever went wrong with it. My current 4v has given me a little more trouble actually, new radiator, idler pulley, belt and soon have fix a rear diff leak but it was only a reason to do my 4.10 gears
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:55 PM   #45
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I bought my '03 GT for $12k in December of '06, with 30k miles on it. The only things i have had to repair/replace were:
  • TOB at 90k (did the clutch too while "in there") -- $500 f/ chromoly f/w and HDX clutch;

  • IAC at 93k miles -- $75;

  • water pump at 105k -- $40;

  • clutch cable -- $60;

  • intake manifold at 112k -- $180, $30 for JB-Weld and gaskets (+$150 for the new FRPP in the attic);

So that was $855 over nearly 6-1/2 years; a whopping $131.54 per year in repairs.

Total cost for acquisition and repairs: $12,855; $1,978 per year.

138k on it now...
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:40 PM   #46
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Intake manifold went ahead and crack on the way home today. Replacing it is now a must.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:50 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenBean 1809 View Post
Intake manifold went ahead and crack on the way home today. Replacing it is now a must.
There only about 250 for a replacement.. And you can do the work yourself.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:32 PM   #48
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Ordered a ford racing replacement with manifold gaskets and alternator bar. Anything else i need?
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:35 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by GreenBean 1809 View Post
Ordered a ford racing replacement with manifold gaskets and alternator bar. Anything else i need?
Shouldn't but I've never done it.. I'm gonna have to at some point I have the crappy plastic one as well
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:36 PM   #50
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Just make sure you didn't order the Dorman and ordered the actual OEM Ford piece. The Dorman is the biggest piece of **** replacement piece I've ever seen for anything.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #51
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My misfire issues could have been a bad intake manifold all along. Seems like an asinine design if you ask me.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:40 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by GreenBean 1809 View Post
Ordered a ford racing replacement with manifold gaskets and alternator bar. Anything else i need?
You might want to change the thermostat and seal while you have things apart, they don't cost much and may as well make it all new while you're at it...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:42 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by GreenBean 1809 View Post
My misfire issues could have been a bad intake manifold all along. Seems like an asinine design if you ask me.
Its actually a great intake, you can make ridiculous power through a stock PI intake upwards of 700 to the wheels with a good turbo setup but the plastic construction... Makes the bullitt intake worth its weight in gold if you can get one without trading in your firstborn but they are HEAVY.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:55 PM   #54
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You might want to change the thermostat and seal while you have things apart, they don't cost much and may as well make it all new while you're at it...
It's the any plus to getting a trick flow intake or prof. Products one? There like 500-900$
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:08 PM   #55
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It's the any plus to getting a trick flow intake or prof. Products one? There like 500-900$
Not unless you just want to spend money...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:16 PM   #56
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Not unless you just want to spend money...
So besides the aluminum "look cool factor" there not much better
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:50 PM   #57
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So besides the aluminum "look cool factor" there not much better
5.0 magazine has a write up in the latest issue on the trick flow track heat intake. Might be worth a read.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:54 PM   #58
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5.0 magazine has a write up in the latest issue on the trick flow track heat intake. Might be worth a read.
Can I find it online?
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:08 PM   #59
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I have no idea. I just skimmed it at the store the other day. Best used for FI basically what i got from it
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:12 PM   #60
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I have no idea. I just skimmed it at the store the other day. Best used for FI basically what i got from it
I just go with the fox P51
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:56 PM   #61
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I'd honestly stick with the PI or a Bullitt if you can find one unless you are doing a Kenne Bell or Tork Tech setup. Guy on the Corral is going to be selling a complete Bullitt intake setup pretty soon when he pulls his 2V out for a Terminator swap.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:00 PM   #62
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I'd honestly stick with the PI or a Bullitt if you can find one unless you are doing a Kenne Bell or Tork Tech setup. Guy on the Corral is going to be selling a complete Bullitt intake setup pretty soon when he pulls his 2V out for a Terminator swap.
Yeah all I've seen is the full set up.. So most of the time they want a ton for it..
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:16 AM   #63
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I'd honestly stick with the PI or a Bullitt if you can find one unless you are doing a Kenne Bell or Tork Tech setup. Guy on the Corral is going to be selling a complete Bullitt intake setup pretty soon when he pulls his 2V out for a Terminator swap.
Agree! And I want to do a lightning swap, buuuut 5.1 turbo is what I'm going with
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:23 PM   #64
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The lightning setup will not even be in the same universe as close to fitting in a Mustang unless you run a ridiculously huge cowl. The Tork Tech is the kit that mounts the Cobra blower to the 2V.

For a turbo there are guys running plenty of boost through the PI intake with no problem. Or just get the Edelbrock and call it a day.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:38 PM   #65
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Do keep in mind also that the Bullitt intake only added 5 HP peak, at the crankshaft, to the Bullitt as compared to the PI manifold--with pretty much all else being equal. You could get that by leaning out the open-loop mix a bit.

It is metal which does add some potential but mostly just provides a nice fuzzy glow in your heart; however it also weighs quite a bit more which gobbles up some of that extra 5 HP. The bottom line is that until yu do head work and cams the PI intake is quite capable of moving all the air the 2V needs. And that is why many of those that have replaced the PI intake with an aftermarket "performance" manifold, with no other engine work, have been less than enthusiastic about the results.

The Trick Flow Track Heat manifold is essentially a clone of the Bullitt manifold...
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Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 06-06-2013, 01:49 PM   #66
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Got car back today. $500 for new manifold installed and a tow. Car drives like a new machine. First gear is a whole other story. No lag or stuttering. Guess I will keep the car for the time being.
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:27 PM   #67
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Got car back today. $500 for new manifold installed and a tow. Car drives like a new machine. First gear is a whole other story. No lag or stuttering. Guess I will keep the car for the time being.
Your spark plugs and coil pack could probly use a nice cleaning the way they are set up antifreeze could've got all in the ports
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:53 PM   #68
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Got car back today. $500 for new manifold installed and a tow. Car drives like a new machine. First gear is a whole other story. No lag or stuttering. Guess I will keep the car for the time being.
Shoulda put it on yourself and saved 300$ does it have the metal crossover in the front?
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:12 PM   #69
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Shoulda put it on yourself and saved 300$ does it have the metal crossover in the front?
Yes it does. I got the ford racing part. Now the squeaking in the back is a pinion bearing. Got a quote for 500 parts n labor. Someone mind confirming for me what a pinion bearing is/ does? Im mostly mad be all the money ive put in this thing i could have had saved up for some head/cam work like i wanted in the first place.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:52 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by GreenBean 1809 View Post

Yes it does. I got the ford racing part. Now the squeaking in the back is a pinion bearing. Got a quote for 500 parts n labor. Someone mind confirming for me what a pinion bearing is/ does? Im mostly mad be all the money ive put in this thing i could have had saved up for some head/cam work like i wanted in the first place.
I could be very wrong.. But I believe it's in the rear end.. On the + side you know your gonna have a good running car when your done
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