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Old 05-27-2013, 08:52 PM   #1
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Suspension guys come hither

So i'm getting a good chunk of money for graduation and i want to really beef up my suspension. So my first thing that i was going to do was coil overs. I found a front and rear combo from UPR Products (link below), i just want your guys knowledge on if i will need to add in the shocks and struts (I don't know exactly how coil overs come/work). With the shocks/struts it will be about $900 so i'd rather not spend the extra $400 if i don't need to. If i don't have to spend the extra $400 then i could probably get all the stuff on my list done.

79-04 Mustang Front and Rear Coil Over Package Silver

Keep in mind that my car is a 2001 Bullitt with about 140.8k miles on it.

The next things i was thinking on doing is listed below, let me know what you guys think i should do:
1. Control Arms
2. Eibach Anti-Roll Sway Bar Kit
3. Swarr Bar 8.8 Rear axle support
4. Subframe Connectors
5. Rear Shock Tower Brace
6. Strut Tower brace

If there is anything not on the list that you guys think would help my suspension, let me know.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:09 PM   #2
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Tubular K member, K member brace. Panhard bar, torque arm
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:36 PM   #3
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Tubular K member, K member brace. Panhard bar, torque arm
+1 I just picked up a tubular k member for $50 still in the box.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:42 PM   #4
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It depends on what you are "using" the car for
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:58 PM   #5
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the area around the college i'm going to have really twisty roads with lots of hills and drops. I plan to have a little fun in these 4 years to come. Plus i do want to do some track racing, its still my DD though.

---------- Post added at 07:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 PM ----------

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+1 I just picked up a tubular k member for $50 still in the box.
I'll buy it for $51

---------- Post added at 07:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

Pretty much right now, i want the biggest bang for my buck. Coilovers are definetly coming first though (even though my original question hasn't been answered yet)
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:11 PM   #6
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You're going to have to buy struts/shocks of you go with that kit. The UPR kit is definitely a drag style coil over setup when you look at the shocks they suggest and the spring types that they let you choose from. I would go with one of the Maximum Motorsport's kit if I were you.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:23 PM   #7
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Do you have any other suspension stuff done to the car right now.

FLSFC, LCAs, etc. Those I would go with first.

1. Subframe Connectors
2. Rear Lower Control Arms
3. Get ride height lowered with a good of springs,
H&R Eibach, etc then a set of struts and shocks
and CC PLates depending on how low etc
4. Panhard Bar or WattsLink, with A Torque Arm setup
Then lastly sway bars since they are used more towards suspension
tuning.

Like others have said go with Maximum Motorsports parts.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:52 PM   #8
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What brand K did you get? They aren't all created equal. For a drag front kit UPR is good, for going around the twisties with confidence... There are some guys who claim to have had pretty good results with a UPR kit tuned for going around corners and they are a great budget company but I would personally go with Maximum Motorsports for a car going around corners with any sort of confidence. Or Griggs if you want to really get crazy with SLA setups but that is very pricey and overkill for 99% of ppl.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:59 PM   #9
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Its a Bullitt so it came with Ford Racing C springs (lowered 3/4") and special shocks/struts, also the subframe connectors that came standard on the verts.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:01 PM   #10
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Its a Bullitt so it came with Ford Racing C springs (lowered 3/4") and special shocks/struts, also the subframe connectors that came standard on the verts.
I remember when you could buy that whole kit for $400 from gefracing back in the early/mid 2000s... good times...
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:04 PM   #11
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Its a Bullitt so it came with Ford Racing C springs (lowered 3/4") and special shocks/struts, also the subframe connectors that came standard on the verts.
Can I buy your springs from you?
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:05 PM   #12
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You're going to have to buy struts/shocks of you go with that kit. The UPR kit is definitely a drag style coil over setup when you look at the shocks they suggest and the spring types that they let you choose from. I would go with one of the Maximum Motorsport's kit if I were you.
I'd rather not spend $1600 though.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:09 PM   #13
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For twisties go mm or griggs. Lca, sfc, panhard/watts, torque arm. No need for uppers as you remove them.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:15 PM   #14
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I'll be the dude who says go IRS out back if the car is going to see street time. SRA for twisties is great on a road course, not as great when you are dealing with public roads and bumps.

As for not wanting to spend $1700 on the MM front kit, I hear that but I would price out the complete UPR kit and see where that leaves you too. Realize that if you are serious about going around corners in a Mustang there is a substantial amount of work to do to get it there and if you are on a tight budget you might want to plot out exactly how much it will cost and see if it is something you want to do.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:00 AM   #15
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I can tell you my plan of attack for my Bullitt on the auto-cross. I'm going to drive it exactly the way it is until my skills are honed to a point where I feel I've run out of car. At that time I'll reevaluate and decide if I want to add mods or, as Scotty suggested, move to a different car which is a more suitable starting point for cornering, I.e. Cobra. I read, long ago, that if it's a choice between adding a mod or going to the track, go to the track. The experience is more important and you will probably outgrow the car anyway...
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:30 AM   #16
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I'll be the dude who says go IRS out back if the car is going to see street time. SRA for twisties is great on a road course, not as great when you are dealing with public roads and bumps.

As for not wanting to spend $1700 on the MM front kit, I hear that but I would price out the complete UPR kit and see where that leaves you too. Realize that if you are serious about going around corners in a Mustang there is a substantial amount of work to do to get it there and if you are on a tight budget you might want to plot out exactly how much it will cost and see if it is something you want to do.
I'm trying to get a good set up, but I'm going to be a college student in a few months so you guys can see why I'm taking the cheaper approach. It doesn't need to be an amazing suspension. I pretty much just want to make every part of my suspension a little better, and believe me I do want IRS. That's why im fine with the UPR ones (priced out to $900 total). They will be good coil overs without breaking the bank for a college student.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:50 AM   #17
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Do you still have the original shocks and struts?
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:50 AM   #18
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Do you still have the original shocks and struts?
Yes
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:04 AM   #19
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With stock tokico's, H&R race springs and camber bolts, I can keep up with 350z's with coilovers at the autocross. Just add some camber and you will be amazed how much better your car will turn in. But the most important thing is tires, you won't be very competitive with all season tires. Even my Nitto's leave something to be desired.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:14 AM   #20
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With stock tokico's, H&R race springs and camber bolts, I can keep up with 350z's with coilovers at the autocross. Just add some camber and you will be amazed how much better your car will turn in. But the most important thing is tires, you won't be very competitive with all season tires. Even my Nitto's leave something to be desired.
When I need new tires I'll upgrade to some better summer performance tires. I won't quite be ready to shell out $200 per tire all around for some autocross tires.

Oh and your car has like 19k miles right? My e has 140k so it would probably be best to replace the shocks and struts.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:49 AM   #21
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With stock tokico's, H&R race springs and camber bolts, I can keep up with 350z's with coilovers at the autocross. Just add some camber and you will be amazed how much better your car will turn in. But the most important thing is tires, you won't be very competitive with all season tires. Even my Nitto's leave something to be desired.
+1^ add a little positive toe (toe out) while you're at it and you should feel a pretty major difference
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:09 AM   #22
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+1^ add a little positive toe (toe out) while you're at it and you should feel a pretty major difference
So would you recommend cc bolts or plates?
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:28 AM   #23
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Honestly, unless you want to spend upwards of 2500$, I wouldn't do coil overs. I did the full eibah pro plus kit, with cc plates, tubular control arms and a Bumpsteer kit. Can't tell you how awesome it handles now. I'm about a tenth of a second faster at auto X as our local full suspension upgraded 180aa tread wear sti. The car really handles well. I'm on 275 40 17 fallen fk 452 rubber which isn't that aggressive. There is a gt in town with the upr setup and it's definitely a drag setup. He can launch hard, but his cornering, even with upgraded sways, is worse than stock.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:30 AM   #24
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Honestly, unless you want to spend upwards of 2500$, I wouldn't do coil overs. I did the full eibah pro plus kit, with cc plates, tubular control arms and a Bumpsteer kit. Can't tell you how awesome it handles now. I'm about a tenth of a second faster at auto X as our local full suspension upgraded 180aa tread wear sti. The car really handles well. I'm on 275 40 17 fallen fk 452 rubber which isn't that aggressive. There is a gt in town with the upr setup and it's definitely a drag setup. He can launch hard, but his cornering, even with upgraded sways, is worse than stock.
Thanks for the insight. Since you have seen the kit first hand I'll trust what you are saying.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:01 PM   #25
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Put the suspension back to factory specs or slightly better, as mentioned above, and save the rest for pizza and girls while you're at college. And beer.(In a couple of years)
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:18 PM   #26
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When I need new tires I'll upgrade to some better summer performance tires. I won't quite be ready to shell out $200 per tire all around for some autocross tires.

Oh and your car has like 19k miles right? My e has 140k so it would probably be best to replace the shocks and struts.
Yes, my struts/shocks are very low mileage, but you can get some Konis, or Tokico D specs along with some springs and perform just as well as a coilover set up, and save some $ at the same time. I didn't want to drill a hole on my strut towers, so I went with bolts over plates, but plates provide more adjustment and allow you to add caster which bolts don't.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:39 PM   #27
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So would you recommend cc bolts or plates?
You don't need cc bolts or plates to adjust toe, but I always like cc plates more just because of the extra adjustability.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #28
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Put the suspension back to factory specs or slightly better, as mentioned above, and save the rest for pizza and girls while you're at college. And beer.(In a couple of years)
Don't worry, I'm budgeting myself for college also.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:31 PM   #29
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Don't worry, I'm budgeting myself for college also.
Damn the money I'm spending on college I should of just bought a boss 302 lol
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:35 PM   #30
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Once I get into college I'll really thin down on the parts, I just want to get as much as I can before I get there.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:36 PM   #31
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I would do coilovers either save up or look on criags for people selling them. I've had aftermarket springs and coilovers and can tell you they are way better with being able to adjust ride height to adjust dampening.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:50 PM   #32
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Yeah I'd just lower it and call it good and save the funds for college fun. LAST thing you want is to not be able to go out because you are trying to save for a car part. Been there, done that, sucks ***.

Also plz don't take out any private student loans... Direct loans are ok but that's about it.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:10 PM   #33
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Yeah I'd just lower it and call it good and save the funds for college fun. LAST thing you want is to not be able to go out because you are trying to save for a car part. Been there, done that, sucks ***.

Also plz don't take out any private student loans... Direct loans are ok but that's about it.
Don't worry, I've got college money figured out. The money I'm spending on car parts won't affect my college money.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:31 PM   #34
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Don't worry, I've got college money figured out. The money I'm spending on car parts won't affect my college money.
I don't I pay it day by day
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Old 06-02-2013, 01:26 PM   #35
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Ok, so i just decided that i'm going to save most of my money for college. Probably the better decision, but i can still get lowering springs. So i'm looking at the H&R Race springs, but i'm looking on AM and Stage 3 Motorsports, and they are the same price.
But on AM the drop is Front: 1.25", Rear: 1.0"
And on Stage 3 the drop is Front: 1.5", Rear 1.4"

I'm just wondering why these numbers are different if they are the same springs? Is one w/ isolators, and the other w/o? Idk, clarification would help. I heard awesome things about the springs from AM, but i like the drop that Stage 3 gives better. So if they handle the same i'll go with Stage 3.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/h-r-ra...ngs-79-04.html
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/197...g-Springs.html
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