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Old 06-07-2013, 12:06 AM   #1
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Rear Suspension

I heard someone say to keep stock UCAs,

I was going to order some LCAs , but don't know to just replace the bushings in the uppers, or replace them ?

I heard someone say aftermarket ones bind up?

I was going to delete my quad shocks as well.
I already upgraded my shocks & struts..

And was going to do full length SFCs too. ( welded )
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:26 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post
I heard someone say to keep stock UCAs,

I was going to order some LCAs , but don't know to just replace the bushings in the uppers, or replace them ?

I heard someone say aftermarket ones bind up?

I was going to delete my quad shocks as well.
I already upgraded my shocks & struts..

And was going to do full length SFCs too. ( welded )
I've heard the same but I don't know the reason why and I have also heard not to use urethane bushings. I've heard to use stock rubber bushings
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:20 AM   #3
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I've heard the same but I don't know the reason why and I have also heard not to use urethane bushings. I've heard to use stock rubber bushings
Cool ill replace the upper bushings tomorrow
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Old 06-07-2013, 03:12 AM   #4
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I've heard that the upper control arms make the rear too stiff to control during wheel spin and that the usually end up messing up the torque boxes
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Old 06-07-2013, 03:52 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 98vertgt View Post
I've heard that the upper control arms make the rear too stiff to control during wheel spin and that the usually end up messing up the torque boxes
I do alot of drag racing btw

And oh really? I really want to keep the 4 link system , I don't want to go any other route.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:29 AM   #6
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Yes I would recommend staying with stock rubber UCA bushings. Polyurethane bushings will just increase binding as the suspension articulates. They bind excessive in lateral loads usually under heavy cornering. If u plan on drag racing you can have ur upper torque boxes welded in and can run adjustable spherical UCAs to correct your pinion angle.

Rubber allows for more suspension deflect of the arms. Urethane will do the opposite and end up creating more bind issue and more undo stress on the torque boxes. So just replace with new rubber bushings and do a good set of LCAs for example Maxi Mo HD units. This will reduce or eliminate wheel hop on hard launching. Quad shocks were originally designed to keep the axle under the car but like the UCAs do it very poorly.

Full Lengthe subframe connectors are a must on our cars cause it will reduce chassis flex and will stregnthen the chassis and give the car a more solid feel. It will allow the suspension to work correctly rather then allowing the chassis to flex.

For handling on the rear for a pre-05 mustang would be to invest in a 3-link setup utimately eliminating the UCAs all together. This is the main issue with the standard stock 4-link rear suspension. Best way would be to install either a panhard bar or wattslink to keep axle centered under the car and going to a torque arm which takes the duties over the UCAs. It will free up the rear suspension on the car and will drastically reduce rear binding.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:19 PM   #7
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I guess my explanation and link in this thread was not good enough. Also I don't know what I'm talking about apparently.

Yes aftermarket UCAs can bind up, honestly any poly bushing arm can. There are companies like Max Motorsports that do a hybrid style bushing or just get Delrin bushings. As for keeping the 4 link... why? It is a HORRIBLE design and if you are serious about drag racing get yourself a torque arm and panhard bar setup as fastmustangs1 recommends. The watts link is not needed for a drag car but is the ultimate in SRA handling. You can also build an IRS to be just fine for drag racing and you get the bonus of it being a better rear for the street. However if you are serious about getting your car yoga balls fast down the 1/4 stick with the SRA.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:01 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by fastmustangs1 View Post
Yes I would recommend staying with stock rubber UCA bushings. Polyurethane bushings will just increase binding as the suspension articulates. They bind excessive in lateral loads usually under heavy cornering. If u plan on drag racing you can have ur upper torque boxes welded in and can run adjustable spherical UCAs to correct your pinion angle.

Rubber allows for more suspension deflect of the arms. Urethane will do the opposite and end up creating more bind issue and more undo stress on the torque boxes. So just replace with new rubber bushings and do a good set of LCAs for example Maxi Mo HD units. This will reduce or eliminate wheel hop on hard launching. Quad shocks were originally designed to keep the axle under the car but like the UCAs do it very poorly.

Full Lengthe subframe connectors are a must on our cars cause it will reduce chassis flex and will stregnthen the chassis and give the car a more solid feel. It will allow the suspension to work correctly rather then allowing the chassis to flex.

For handling on the rear for a pre-05 mustang would be to invest in a 3-link setup utimately eliminating the UCAs all together. This is the main issue with the standard stock 4-link rear suspension. Best way would be to install either a panhard bar or wattslink to keep axle centered under the car and going to a torque arm which takes the duties over the UCAs. It will free up the rear suspension on the car and will drastically reduce rear binding.
So
1. Replace bushings
2. Upgrade LCAs
3. Get pan bar.

Yes ???

---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post

So
1. Replace bushings
2. Upgrade LCAs
3. Get pan bar.
4. FL SFCS !
Yes ???
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post
So
1. Replace bushings
2. Upgrade LCAs
3. Get pan bar.

Yes ???

---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 PM ----------

Yes replace with new rubber bushings. And go with other parts mentioned if u want to improve handling. If u want the best way that would also need to weld in SFCs and a torque arm. You will need SFCs welded in first before u get torque arm installed.
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