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Old 06-13-2013, 05:50 PM   #36
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There's a whole vortech setup in my area for 2600
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:01 PM   #37
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There's a whole vortech setup in my area for 2600
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:20 PM   #38
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Car show Sunday at Wings and Rings Ballantyne Midnigh Blue

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Old 06-13-2013, 06:38 PM   #39
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:39 PM   #40
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Gotta address too? Im havent been to that area but twice since i moved in here.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:55 PM   #41
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:11 AM   #42
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Procharger will make more power, vortech is cheaper. Both are pretty safe with a good tune. Power difference won't be huge, but I'm pretty sure the procharger has more potential to turn up the boost later if you forge your bottom end. Both good superchargers

---------- Post added at 04:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:49 PM ----------



Also the vortech should be easier to install from the look of it. Don't have one but it looks simpler.
Vortech requires taping your oil pan I believe. Procharger is self oiling. I have one for sale, brand new if interestes

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I'd go with a Vortech all day unless you are looking for serious omfg power and then you can always go with a Vortech T trim or a YSI or something. The V3 is really nice and being self contained makes it stupid easy to install. Literally just the brackets and plumbing and belt and its on. Still need a tune and you should upgrade your fuel system too obviously.
Ok, stand corrected. Didn't know they had a self contained as well....
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:05 AM   #43
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I think only the v3 is self contained.
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:43 AM   #44
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Yep only the V3 is self contained. However tapping the pan is easy and the V1 and V2 units used are going for less money now because of the V3 and ppl upgrading.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:02 AM   #45
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Yeah, it's certainly a base tune. I'd consider it a "drive to your dyno session tune" I'm sure whatever rate injectors and pump Vortech provides is sufficient for the kit.
I'd just run a bypass kit on it till you got to the dyno tuning session. Just don't hook everything up and run n/a until you're at the dyno.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:12 AM   #46
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Last time I had to get a dyno tune to get a car running properly (after a HCI) I towed it to the tuner, pushed it into the shop and let them hook up the wideband and fire it up and get it baselined before anything. Last thing you want is to hurt the motor because the yahoo writing your mailorder tune was off or something was not installed right or something...

The vortech injectors are pump are sufficient and its just that, sufficient. Add a power pipe, kick up the boost or if you ever want to buid your motor you'll need to upgrade the fuel system AGAIN. Look for a used Vortech kit that is just the brackets/pullies/tubing/blower and build your own fuel system IMO.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:56 AM   #47
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Yeah I plan on just buying like the tuner kit that way I supply my own fuel pump and injectors. I would also be towing my stang to the dyno
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:21 PM   #48
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Yep only the V3 is self contained. However tapping the pan is easy and the V1 and V2 units used are going for less money now because of the V3 and ppl upgrading.
I never see used vortechs for sale that aren't old 5.0 setups.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:08 AM   #49
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I just missed out on a used p1sc q here. Guy is upgrading and was selling his with bracket and pipeing for 1600$ install recipes for march. ****. That would be my go fast done for now.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:18 AM   #50
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I just missed out on a used p1sc q here. Guy is upgrading and was selling his with bracket and pipeing for 1600$ install recipes for march. ****. That would be my go fast done for now.
Yeah I can't wait until I can get a supercharger but it's going to be a couple years :/
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:58 PM   #51
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Have you looked at the Paxton/NOVI centrifugals? I put a NOVI 2200 SC on my son's 2006 Mustang, and it made 476 wheel horses on 10 lbs of boost. It has an air to air I/C, simple install, and has been running strong for 3 years so far. It was a very complete kit from Brenspeed, the only thing we had to buy was some antifreeze. The NOVI has a wicked whistle/whine at idle that is worth the effort alone.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:25 PM   #52
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Have you looked at the Paxton/NOVI centrifugals? I put a NOVI 2200 SC on my son's 2006 Mustang, and it made 476 wheel horses on 10 lbs of boost. It has an air to air I/C, simple install, and has been running strong for 3 years so far. It was a very complete kit from Brenspeed, the only thing we had to buy was some antifreeze. The NOVI has a wicked whistle/whine at idle that is worth the effort alone.
No I hadn't considered it lol but I will take a look at it actually )
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:45 PM   #53
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Does anyone have an input into this kit?? It seems like a great deal that's ready to bolt on

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K519-390-375/
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:49 PM   #54
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Does anyone have an input into this kit?? It seems like a great deal that's ready to bolt on

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K519-390-375/
One of the best bets for N/A power on the stock bottom end. A blower and fuel management will cost about the same and make more power, though.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:59 PM   #55
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One of the best bets for N/A power on the stock bottom end. A blower and fuel management will cost about the same and make more power, though.
I was thinking about putting that on with a Procharger D1sc and forged bottom end actually lol
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:09 PM   #56
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I was thinking about putting that on with a Procharger D1sc and forged bottom end actually lol
If you're going to spend all that money on the motor, why not just buy an assembled longblock?
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:12 PM   #57
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If you're going to spend all that money on the motor, why not just buy an assembled longblock?
That's also another factor to consider lol right now I'm at the planning stage where I'm just tossing ideas around and seeing what people opinions are you know
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:24 PM   #58
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That's also another factor to consider lol right now I'm at the planning stage where I'm just tossing ideas around and seeing what people opinions are you know
I follow. One thing to consider is that a complete longblock won't require labor from a machine shop.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:32 PM   #59
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You pay for the labor in the price of the assembled longblock. You just won't have the install costs if you do it yourself.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:44 PM   #60
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You pay for the labor in the price of the assembled longblock. You just won't have the install costs if you do it yourself.
All very valid statements and I was looking at the 1000hp long block that MHS offers. Is this overkill or should I get the 600hp one?? It's mainly goin to be a street car and all so maybe the 600hp block?
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:45 PM   #61
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You pay for the labor in the price of the assembled longblock. You just won't have the install costs if you do it yourself.
Labor on a longblock from say, CHP isn't going to wind up being near as much as having a machine shop install a new rotating assembly in his existing block.. Also he'll be able to recuperate some funds by selling his old motor as an assembly.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:13 PM   #62
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I believe I'm just going to do the 600hp long block from MHS and add the upgrades to it, grab a D1sc tuner kit from lethal performance, a 255lph fuel pump 47lb injectors and a big red race valve for the procharger. Does this sound like a decent and reliable set up for boost?? Anything that I'm missing out on??
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:22 PM   #63
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I believe I'm just going to do the 600hp long block from MHS and add the upgrades to it, grab a D1sc tuner kit from lethal performance, a 255lph fuel pump 47lb injectors and a big red race valve for the procharger. Does this sound like a decent and reliable set up for boost?? Anything that I'm missing out on??
I would get a better fuel pump and bigger injectors... That pump can't handle a 600 horsepower motor and a supercharger
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:24 PM   #64
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Shraderperformance.com

NASCAR country...need I say more?

This guy has one of the best engine building reputations in the business.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:25 PM   #65
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I would get a better fuel pump and bigger injectors... That pump can't handle a 600 horsepower motor and a supercharger
Oh really? How big of a pump should I get? And lb injectors???
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:26 PM   #66
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Get the bbk 300lph and at least 42 pounds and injectors.

Direct bolt on no mods necessary.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:31 PM   #67
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A BBK 300lph with a boost a pump wide open wil not even get you close to 600 rwhp.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:35 PM   #68
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Maybe I should clarify that the long block I'm getting is good for 600 hp but I only plan on running like 450-480rwhp through the engine. Idk if that makes a difference for fuel set ups??
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:39 PM   #69
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A BBK 300lph with a boost a pump wide open wil not even get you close to 600 rwhp.
My buddy is running it with 500whp. No boost a pump that's junk.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:40 PM   #70
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Maybe I should clarify that the long block I'm getting is good for 600 hp but I only plan on running like 450-480rwhp through the engine. Idk if that makes a difference for fuel set ups??
If you slap a d-1sc on it you will be in the 600 to 700 range.. You will need a lot of fuel going to the motor.
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