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Old 06-14-2013, 04:11 AM   #1
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First time spark plugs

Okay guys im pretty clueless never done this before on my 04 gt, i do however know my way around the engine bay. What do i need to know? Ive gathered a bit of info like torquing the spark plugs to about 11-12 ft/lbs. But other than that idk how the whole process goes. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:17 AM   #2
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Okay guys im pretty clueless never done this before on my 04 gt, i do however know my way around the engine bay. What do i need to know? Ive gathered a bit of info like torquing the spark plugs to about 11-12 ft/lbs. But other than that idk how the whole process goes. Any help is appreciated.
Get OEM plugs , pretty straight foward..

Remove Coil pack
Get a 3/8 Rachet with a long extension and a 5/8 Deep socket ( Spark plug socket )
Remove plug
Get new plug ( Gap it to specs )
Apply some anti seize to the thread part
And just tighten down , and just give it a decent snug..

Just make sure not to strip the 7mm screw that holds down your coil pack.. They can strip easy.
And make sure nothing falls in the spark plug hole.. You should be fine,
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:40 AM   #3
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What about depressurizing my fuel rails?
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:46 AM   #4
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Why would you need to release pressure from fuel rails ?? ...
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:47 AM   #5
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Why would you need to release pressure from fuel rails ?? ...
Fuel rails sit over the cops
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:55 AM   #6
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There is no problem working around them
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:25 AM   #7
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There is no problem working around them
Forreal? Just looked to me like the fuel rails needed to come off.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:40 AM   #8
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The fuel rails do not have to come off. You will need to remove the intake tube to get to the cylinder 2 and 3 COPs and plugs.

Also, "just give it a decent snug" with regard to torquing the plugs is terrible advice to give a novice or even an experienced mechanic; almost guaranteed to create one or more plug blowouts "down the road".

The recommended spark plug change interval is each 100k miles, every 5 to 8 years for most drivers, and probably only twop times over the expected life of the vehicle (300k miles). To minimise the possibility of the plugs seizing into the head Ford designed the plug bores with only 5 or 6 "threads", and then published a very specific torque specification of 11 to 13 lb-ft--this is not very tight, and is a bit less than the 15 lb-ft recommended by plug makers, making it VERY important to properly torque the plugs.

Use a 1/4" drive torque wrench if possible, 3/8" if you have to, but do not attempt to use a 1/2" drive wrench. Most 1/2" wrenches are no even calibrated for being set to 11 to 13 lb-ft, and even those that are will be grossly inaccurate at that setting. Most 3/8" drive torque wrenches can be set as low as 5 lb-ft, however they will still not be all that accurate when set to 11 to 13 lb-ft.

An extra deep plug socket like this one from O'Reilly's is a plus, as it will align itself in the plug well and not be as likely to cant and break the plug.

One other possibility is to use a torque-limiting plug socket-like this one:



I was doing some field testing of COPs and plugs a couple years ago and literally changed the plugs 10+ times in 4 weeks; I picked up the torque-limiting socket to make that task easier. It releases at 14.5 to 14.9 lb-ft, a bit higher than Ford's spec however it is also the torque I had been using for years on 4.6L GTs when using never-seize on the threads (the shop manual makes no mention of using anti-seize compound )...
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:45 AM   #9
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Fuel rails sit over the cops
You have get to them without taking fuel rail off..

But my old GT I had to take them off, I just popped that **** off lol , I suggest safety glasses and gloves.

Just make sure you set the fuel rail back on and snap on the O Rings in the corners, careful not to rip one. I have , oreillys sells them for like a 1 dollar
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:30 AM   #10
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Already went to harbor freight and bought a 20-200 in/lb torque wrench. 1/4 inch.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:39 AM   #11
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Already went to harbor freight and bought a 20-200 in/lb torque wrench. 1/4 inch.
Cool, you are good to go then.

The fuel rails do not have to come off to remove the COPs--here is the "RnR" from the shop manual:



Note the 89 lb-in torque for the COP bolts--I have found that a bit high, by spinning a few brass inserts on older manifolds, and now go for 55 to 60 lb-in...

BTW and FWIW; ft/lb (ft-lb or ft·lb) is a unit of work (energy), the unit for torque is properly lb/ft (lb-ft or lb·ft) to prevent its being confused with the unit of work. People making/selling torque wrenches always have it wrong, as do most tuners and dyno operators.

To get very technical using the slash in either is incorrect as it implies the value is the result of a division distance "divided by" force for work, or force "divided by" distance for torque ("distance" being the length of the torque arm). In fact the values are the result of multiplication distance "times" force or force "times" distance. As there is no proper multiplication symbol (·) on a keyboard a single dash is often used.

For example 89 lb·in = a force of 89 pounds being applied to a 1" long arm; that same 89 pounds applied to a 12" arm would produce 89·12 = 1068 lb·in of torque--not 89/12 which would be 7.4 lb/in...
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New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:28 PM   #12
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Nice info
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Old 06-15-2013, 02:48 PM   #13
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It was incredibly easy! Thanks for the info, went well!
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