Throttle Sticking! - Mustang Evolution

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Old 06-17-2013, 11:20 AM   #1
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Throttle Sticking!

I just purchased and installed a summit 70mm throttle body. It went on ok but now when im cruising at a certain speed for a little while i will push in the clutch and the rpms hang at around two grand. If i rev it up it slowly goes back to idle. I cleaned the throttle body and reinstalled it and its still acting up. I would greatly appreciate some input.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:02 PM   #2
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Try idle re learn, disconnect the batter for 10-15 min then reconnect it and see if that helps
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:13 PM   #3
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Try idle re learn, disconnect the batter for 10-15 min then reconnect it and see if that helps
I will try that thanks
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:15 PM   #4
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+1. the battery must be disconnected for 5-7 minutes after changing any engine control sensor or other intake component. This clears the KAM and forces the PCM to relearn the idle air and virtual dashpot trims. The engine needs to idle for 15 minutes after clearing the KAM so that the PCM can learn the new idle control air needs.

You may also wish to check the throttle stop screw setting. Here is how, this adjustment sets the fixed air-bleed through the "closed" throttle so that the PCM can properly use the Idle Air Control valve to control idle speed (and dashpot functions)...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:31 PM   #5
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+1. the battery must be disconnected for 5-7 minutes after changing any engine control sensor or other intake component. This clears the KAM and forces the PCM to relearn the idle air and virtual dashpot trims. The engine needs to idle for 15 minutes after clearing the KAM so that the PCM can learn the new idle control air needs.

You may also wish to check the throttle stop screw setting. Here is how, this adjustment sets the fixed air-bleed through the "closed" throttle so that the PCM can properly use the Idle Air Control valve to control idle speed (and dashpot functions)...
I tried all of this. It is happening less often now but is still acting up after the motor warms up. Any other ideas?
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:58 AM   #6
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I tried all of this. It is happening less often now but is still acting up after the motor warms up. Any other ideas?
Try turning the throttle stop screw in, in 1/16th turn increments and no more than 1/4 turn in all. This small bit will often be enough to prevent the butterfly from jamming.

Another trick is to back off the stop screw until the throttle is fully closed and then loosen the screws fastening the throttle plate to the shaft. Often this will allow the plate to center itself in a bore--re-tighten the screws of course and then reset the stop screw. This may not be easily done or even possible on some TBs on which these screws are upset to prevent their backing out.

One last ditch, "this thing has pissed me off and I am either going to fix it or break it", approach I have used is to lightly whack the end of the throttle shaft 2 or 3 times with a hard plastic mallet, from both ends (remove the TPS) to reposition/loosen the plate and bearings. Sometimes they are just too tight a fit and the "whacking o' the shaft" will add a tiny bit of clearance that will loosen things up.
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:10 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post

Try turning the throttle stop screw in, in 1/16th turn increments and no more than 1/4 turn in all. This small bit will often be enough to prevent the butterfly from jamming.

Another trick is to back off the stop screw until the throttle is fully closed and then loosen the screws fastening the throttle plate to the shaft. Often this will allow the plate to center itself in a bore--re-tighten the screws of course and then reset the stop screw. This may not be easily done or even possible on some TBs on which these screws are upset to prevent their backing out.

One last ditch, "this thing has pissed me off and I am either going to fix it or break it", approach I have used is to lightly whack the end of the throttle shaft 2 or 3 times with a hard plastic mallet, from both ends (remove the TPS) to reposition/loosen the plate and bearings. Sometimes they are just too tight a fit and the "whacking o' the shaft" will add a tiny bit of clearance that will loosen things up.
I removed the new throttle body and noticed that the valve had been scraping the housing. I assume the valve was expanding under heat and wedging its self against the housing causing it to stick. I sent it back as a defect. I put the stock tb on and she ran beautifully. Thanks for the suggestions anyway. They helped to narrow it down.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:43 AM   #8
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One thing to keep in mind is that many of the "house brand" performance parts are identical to the imported "never heard of this brand" stuff that turns up on eBay--the difference being that the big guys like Summit and Jegs do stand behind them...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:28 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that many of the "house brand" performance parts are identical to the imported "never heard of this brand" stuff that turns up on eBay--the difference being that the big guys like Summit and Jegs do stand behind them...
Ya thats what i get for buying a $150 summit brand tb. Ill know better now.
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:47 AM   #10
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Summit will make it right--I have never had anything but good experiences with them...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:58 PM   #11
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Throttle Sticking!

Check the air flow sensor that plugs into rubber housing between air cleaner and thottle body, make sure bulb is in center of halo. liked to have never found the problem on mine.
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:44 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 98svtcobra4.6 View Post
Check the air flow sensor that plugs into rubber housing between air cleaner and thottle body, make sure bulb is in center of halo. liked to have never found the problem on mine.
A. - This is a 2-year old thread, the problem is likely "long gone";l a

B. - What you describe is the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor, not an air flow sensor--it has nothing to do with the throttle plate sticking.

Other than that welcome to the forum!
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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