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Old 06-19-2013, 06:06 PM   #1
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Drag racing suspension

Does anyone have any ideas for a good drag racing setup, tips, brands, personal suspension you like... Any info would be helpfull, thanks
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:18 PM   #2
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Ive heard bout removing front sway bar, running a heavier rear bar, going to 4 cyl rear springs or like Eibach drag springs and not sure if Lakewood 90/10 or 70/30 shocks though.

A good set of LCAs like Maximum Motorsports and Full Length subframe
connectors will help as well.

Hope these tips help. JUst read those first tips on other sites.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:42 PM   #3
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Thanks man
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:44 PM   #4
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Cut springs make for good drag springs but 79-93 4cyl do as well..
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Old 06-20-2013, 02:14 AM   #5
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Cut stockers are great for drag racing....they transfer weight really well. Along with 4 banger springs...some drag bags in the rear and removing the front sway also really help.
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:05 AM   #6
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I've heard of removing the front sway bar but how exactly does that help at the drags?
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:14 AM   #7
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I've heard of removing the front sway bar but how exactly does that help at the drags?
Help the front end pull up more and youll get more weight transfer to the rear wheels giving more traction.
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:44 AM   #8
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Help the front end pull up more and youll get more weight transfer to the rear wheels giving more traction.
Interesting..thanks!
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:20 AM   #9
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On my 01 GT I did a full Eibach drag launch spring set up with rear air bag. Lakewood 90/10 front 50/50 rear. I wouldn't recommend doing the front sway bar delete but I does help. Removed the rear quad shocks allows the back to squat more. Had full length sub frame bars. Strut tower and rear shock tower brace. Get a good set of rear control arms not cheap ones they are useless on the track. But its a must to have GOOD sticky tires. I had Hoosiers with about 18psi - 22psi in them. Once you are putting more power down look into getting battle boxes and a driveshaft loop. I was running down the track doing 12.5's and jacked my car up and noticed where my lower control arms met my frame was ripping away. So I had them welded in problem solved.

Remember you can have a 500hp stang and its only as fast as the suspension allows it to be. Its a lot of stuff but if you plan on drag racing even just for fun it makes you car a lot safer.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:47 PM   #10
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On my 01 GT I did a full Eibach drag launch spring set up with rear air bag. Lakewood 90/10 front 50/50 rear. I wouldn't recommend doing the front sway bar delete but I does help. Removed the rear quad shocks allows the back to squat more. Had full length sub frame bars. Strut tower and rear shock tower brace. Get a good set of rear control arms not cheap ones they are useless on the track. But its a must to have GOOD sticky tires. I had Hoosiers with about 18psi - 22psi in them. Once you are putting more power down look into getting battle boxes and a driveshaft loop. I was running down the track doing 12.5's and jacked my car up and noticed where my lower control arms met my frame was ripping away. So I had them welded in problem solved.

Remember you can have a 500hp stang and its only as fast as the suspension allows it to be. Its a lot of stuff but if you plan on drag racing even just for fun it makes you car a lot safer.
What does the 90/10 and 50/50 on each side represent?
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:49 AM   #11
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The front struts would be a set of 90/10. The first number represents the lift or upward motion percentage and the second number is the downward motion or percentage. So in the front when you launch your car the struts will push upward on the front making the back end squat thus more traction. They also made my car get to the point of lifting one wheel off the ground hehe! But this setup of shocks isn't fun on the street so I bought the 70/30 struts for when I was off the track.

The backs are just a 50/50 rating, pretty much a normal shock.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:50 AM   #12
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Ohh okay gotcha
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:47 PM   #13
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What does the 90/10 and 50/50 on each side represent?
We run 4 cars. 1/4 mile only. No 1/8th mile. But on to the issues and advice if you call it that. Cutting springs? Wow? 4 cylinder springs? Where is all this coming from? Lack of drag experience and or budget? Listen I'm a sponsored pro driver and team owner but I've never seen advice such as this. Let me be very clear I'm not bashing anyone. .period we ALL start somewhere, we've been under a budget and saved from 5 to 6 years to build the first car we ran years ago.. many many moons back. Lol. Now I run a 4 car 3 driver team and an 83 10.5 small tire car that this season will! Kill the 10.5 record. Our sites under construction for adding articles and videos to help fellow racers out there choose the right parts and how to articles and videos but. . Guys and gals please just visit UPR and get the right parts and their techs are great and ready to help. Heck tell them I sent you.but what you're saying is not only incorrect it's wicked unsafe. I'd be glad to help. I'd you need it please shoot me an email. Or call. The site will be back up in a few weeks because of all the changes they just needed to rebuild it.
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:49 PM   #14
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We run 4 cars. 1/4 mile only. No 1/8th mile. But on to the issues and advice if you call it that. Cutting springs? Wow? 4 cylinder springs? Where is all this coming from? Lack of drag experience and or budget? Listen I'm a sponsored pro driver and team owner but I've never seen advice such as this. Let me be very clear I'm not bashing anyone. .period we ALL start somewhere, we've been under a budget and saved from 5 to 6 years to build the first car we ran years ago.. many many moons back. Lol. Now I run a 4 car 3 driver team and an 83 10.5 small tire car that this season will! Kill the 10.5 record. Our sites under construction for adding articles and videos to help fellow racers out there choose the right parts and how to articles and videos but. . Guys and gals please just visit UPR and get the right parts and their techs are great and ready to help. Heck tell them I sent you.but what you're saying is not only incorrect it's wicked unsafe. I'd be glad to help. I'd you need it please shoot me an email. Or call. The site will be back up in a few weeks because of all the changes they just needed to rebuild it.
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:11 PM   #15
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We run 4 cars. 1/4 mile only. No 1/8th mile. But on to the issues and advice if you call it that. Cutting springs? Wow? 4 cylinder springs? Where is all this coming from? Lack of drag experience and or budget? Listen I'm a sponsored pro driver and team owner but I've never seen advice such as this. Let me be very clear I'm not bashing anyone. .period we ALL start somewhere, we've been under a budget and saved from 5 to 6 years to build the first car we ran years ago.. many many moons back. Lol. Now I run a 4 car 3 driver team and an 83 10.5 small tire car that this season will! Kill the 10.5 record. Our sites under construction for adding articles and videos to help fellow racers out there choose the right parts and how to articles and videos but. . Guys and gals please just visit UPR and get the right parts and their techs are great and ready to help. Heck tell them I sent you.but what you're saying is not only incorrect it's wicked unsafe. I'd be glad to help. I'd you need it please shoot me an email. Or call. The site will be back up in a few weeks because of all the changes they just needed to rebuild it.
We're dealing with ppl who will be lucky to run 12's. Basic is better.

A good street riding drag suspension doesn't exist. A good set of adjustable shocks and struts will make a big difference on weight transfer. Stock upper control arms are fine unless you are slammed.

Buy a decent set of lower control arms, change shocks/struts and buy some tires. When you get around 1.5 60' times you can start spending more money to shave times.

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Old 01-02-2016, 06:38 PM   #16
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We're dealing with ppl who will be lucky to run 12's. Basic is better.

A good street riding drag suspension doesn't exist. A good set of adjustable shocks and struts will make a big difference on weight transfer. Stock upper control arms are fine unless you are slammed.

Buy a decent set of lower control arms, change shocks/struts and buy some tires. When you get around 1.5 60' times you can start spending more money to shave times.

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Oh I know. We have 1 12sec car the wife is learning on. My car has been in the works for 6 years but keep watching I'm killing the 10.5 tire class this season just to prove a point. But in my attempt to get a point across is. It's worth it to save a get the right equipment, because it's not just their safety it's the guy or gal next them as well. Please understand I'm not bashing, hell I know its expensive I probably have 10k in just molly in my personal car with a mostly stock sub chassis car. I'm just offering help. Because it made the difference for me to go pro when a single person finally took the time. We actually hit an 0.97 60. On motor alone. But I spray 3 kits just didn't want the bottles in, no Trans brake or 2 step.just came up on the converter bump an footbrakin.. for its first test hit and snapped a team z arb.
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:58 PM   #17
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We'll be. .or should I say the Web guys will have the website back up and going in a few weeks but when it comes to suspension geometry Preloading, loading down and unloading when how why where and everything in between on our side it's pretty much a three page article with photos and a video explaining how things should and should not work how to fix problems and issues. the forum is a great thing and like I said definitely not bashing I respect anybody out there trying to drag race legally. having the right parts and I completely understand its not cheap but in more cases that's a lot cheaper than a human life when you can spend a minimal amount and be safe and get the same object. like I saw an article that said 22 pounds in a Hoosier slick that's going to center burn the heck out of that tire that's way too much psi unless you're running a 5000 pound truck I saw another article that said cut the springs that changes the metallurgy fractures the cellular level of the steel in the spring can and will explode under pressure or rebound or may not it's a crapshoot. that's basically all I was trying to get to I apologize if some of the wording doesn't make sense but I'm not very good at typing little keys on a phone so I'm using the voice portion. right now we are focusing on our new cars of literally completely rebuilt mine from front to back and I'm also the president of the central Kansas Mustang Club which were trying to get kids off of the street and onto the track. we just lost too many people Lately to street racing
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:07 PM   #18
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Oh and beware everyone. NHRA Changed many! rules this new season of 2016 the one causing the most stink is now ANY vehicle and or car running 10.99 or quicker must have an engine diaper.
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Old 01-02-2016, 10:22 PM   #19
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Oh and beware everyone. NHRA Changed many! rules this new season of 2016 the one causing the most stink is now ANY vehicle and or car running 10.99 or quicker must have an engine diaper.
This is why I'm just not that serious into racing. All of my cars are street cars first. I'm also glad the local track is lenient most of the time.

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Old 01-03-2016, 06:59 AM   #20
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I agree, it's the 10 and under cars that are poorly built. Then we stand around for an hour while they clean the oil off the track because another guy got a big block and sprayed the hell out of it and granade! boom. But truth is I've got at least 20k in parts in my motor.
My motor, I built myself but I've been doing full race cars even tube cars for 30 year's but I have a nasty stroked small block. It's the biggest cube a small block can get but non the less a small block and everything about the build was built to spray and spay alot. The nitrous market is partly to blame, ohh just put this on and you have 400 extra horsepower. they leave out the very very expensive details and engine requirements.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:18 AM   #21
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Question? When you guys go to the track do you at least change over to slicks? The street cars here tear up the track something wicked. They come in of the road with a ton of rock trapped in the tread and it cuts grooves in the rubber. Basically they need to prep and drag the track after the street class. But some guys get it an change over at the track, but more do not then do. My cars actually street legal, tag title, insurance the hole enchalada. Lol but I don't drive it on the street anymore because of the fact it takes a full cell just to go across a small town and back to the shop. And now definitely can't because I built fender exist headers and can no longer quickly attack the MagnaFlow to the headers.
Be safe out there guys and please don't hesitate to contact me if you need a bit of information. If you don't share what you learn then it's worthless knowledge.
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Good luck to everyone this coming season.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:24 AM   #22
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Fun Fact. The SRCA Dragstrip, Great Bend, KS

The SRCA Dragstrip here in Great Bend ks, is where the NHRA began as well as the very first race was held here.
If you haven't yet it is a place to visit just because this is where it all started.
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Old 01-07-2016, 02:59 AM   #23
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Look into Team Z, UPR, Maximum Motorsports
As far as shocks struts, Strange or Tokico
What are the goals for the car ?


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Old 01-07-2016, 07:40 AM   #24
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shocks..

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Look into Team Z, UPR, Maximum Motorsports
As far as shocks struts, Strange or Tokico
What are the goals for the car ?


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UPR has the Viking crusader and wow. Massive amounts of settings, 416 total different possible combinations, or the standard viking still adjustable. It may seem like overkill but you won't have to keep buying shocks as your car progresses. But none are as good in our opinion, (just our opinion). we've ran nearly everything out there over the 30 years we've been at this and they perform like no other.
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Old 01-07-2016, 11:51 AM   #25
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Question? When you guys go to the track do you at least change over to slicks? The street cars here tear up the track something wicked. They come in of the road with a ton of rock trapped in the tread and it cuts grooves in the rubber. Basically they need to prep and drag the track after the street class. But some guys get it an change over at the track, but more do not then do. My cars actually street legal, tag title, insurance the hole enchalada. Lol but I don't drive it on the street anymore because of the fact it takes a full cell just to go across a small town and back to the shop. And now definitely can't because I built fender exist headers and can no longer quickly attack the MagnaFlow to the headers.
Be safe out there guys and please don't hesitate to contact me if you need a bit of information. If you don't share what you learn then it's worthless knowledge.
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Good luck to everyone this coming season.
I keep the drag wheels on the car all summer. 40 miles each way. Used to run bias-ply. Currently trying the et-pro. Will be going back bias-ply.

Most of the street tire guys in my area don't do burnouts and only make a pass or two. I normally wait for a few big tire cars to run before making a pass. They lay down a decent groove to stay in.

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Old 01-07-2016, 12:23 PM   #26
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I keep the drag wheels on the car all summer. 40 miles each way. Used to run bias-ply. Currently trying the et-pro. Will be going back bias-ply.

Most of the street tire guys in my area don't do burnouts and only make a pass or two. I normally wait for a few big tire cars to run before making a pass. They lay down a decent groove to stay in.

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That's cool. And respectful, you should come here and teach them. Lol. But no.... all b.s. aside they run street class witch is 99% bf Goodrich etc deep tread, rock carrying tires with a 50k tread warranty. Lol but the down side of the local 1/4 track is they run them first and they tear the heck out of the nice layer if you know what I mean. It looks like they ran spiked winter tires! And still can't seem to explain to them drag radials are around for a reason and they don't need to do a 45 sec burnout (literally), it's not like it will help it's just a ego thing I guess. Sad that this isn't just the young ones there's grown men! Can't figure it out and stopped trying. Good luck to everyone on the forum and hopefully this season will be good and safe! But most important. Have fun!
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